The varied cuisines of the Indian subcontinent boast an impressive array of glamorous flatbreads—pillowy naans, layered and flaky parathas, and crisp-edged dosas, to name a few—but it’s always been wholesome, everyday rotis (also known as chapatis) that I’ve been keenest to make for myself. Little more than whole-wheat flour and water, the griddled, unleavened rounds are soft and pliable, so they make handy scoops for stews and saucy curries. I dreamed of eating freshly cooked rotis alongside steaming bowls of fragrant spiced dal and then using the leftovers the next day to wrap anything from scrambled eggs to butter and jam. But I was getting ahead of myself because, after several attempts, my rotis were still rubbish.
The recipes were simple—just mix flour (traditionally the South Asian whole-wheat flour chakki atta), water, and maybe a small amount of salt for seasoning and fat for softness; knead the dough thoroughly to promote gluten development; rest it; portion it; roll each portion into a thin round; and toast both sides on a dry griddle. As the water in the dough turns to steam, the
