The Pattern Pages

FULL SEAT ADJUSTMENT

Trouser styles come and go. At one point, we thought that sweatpants would be the new universal normal and tailored trousers a thing of the past. But there is always a need for a sleek pair of trousers, a pair with room for movement that is also functional and of course with pockets!

So it’s time to tackle the dreaded trouser-fitting issues! Here, I demonstrate the problems with a common alterationfor an improved fit. Diagonal stress wrinkles around the derriere indicate a fuller bottom than the pattern is drafted which calls for a ‘full seat’ aka ‘junk in the trunk’ (as I like to call it!) pattern adjustment. A rounder bottom may also cause the back waistline to dip down as well as causing the back crotch seam to be lengthened. I look at the outcome of a traditional approach for this adjustment and compare it with two alternatives.

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