Every twirl of liang mian manages to be both refreshing and hearty. The cold, lightly chewy noodles coated in a dark, earthy majiang (sesame paste) sauce are edged with satisfying sweetness, heat, and tang. In China and Taiwan, the chilled, glossy strands are the antidote to sultry summer weather; they’re slurped up at noodle stalls and cafés and in home kitchens—you can even find them prepackaged at 7-Eleven—at every opportunity from lunch to midnight snacktime. They’re hugely popular in many regions of the United States, too; Chinese restaurants tend to list them on their appetizer menus.
Many Chinese and Taiwanese Americans whip up liang mian when they want something that’s quick to the table: Just stir together a handful of ingredients to make the creamy dressing, boil and chill the noodles, grab
