n a Sunday afternoon in mid-November, two forces of barbecue collide in Lexington. In one corner stands 89-year-old Norma Frances “Tootsie” Tomanetz, the renowned pitmaster who’s made Snow’s BBQ a certified institution the world over. Across from her is Chuck Charnichart, 25, Haley Conlin, 31, and Alexis Tovías Morales, 25—a trio of relative newcomers straight out of barbecue’s new school. After learning the ropes at Franklin Barbecue in Austin and Goldee’s in Fort Worth, the three friends launched Barbs-B-Q in Lockhart in 2023. Where Tomanetz has perfected the classics, the women of Barbs are bringing something new to the picnic table: smoky staples forged in a South Texas style, such as molotov pork ribs that crackle with lime zest and “Green Spaghett,” a creamy poblano take on typical mac and cheese. Looking out on the barbecue landscape, it’s mostly a man’s world. So, while these two eateries might have different approaches, the women at the helm have come together
