Decanter

EXPLORING Rioja

Rioja is arguably Spain’s most famous wine worldwide, but it’s fair to say that the region is still finding its feet when it comes to attracting international visitors. And it’s not for a lack of attractions: as a travel destination, one of Rioja’s greatest assets is that there is plenty to see and do beyond visiting wineries or drinking wine.

For history lovers, the region boasts a rich past, with pretty medieval villages perched on its hills, and ancient neolithic tombs and stone lagares dotted across the Sierra de Cantabria foothills, which can be easily reached by car.

If you want to focus on outdoor activities, the region offers an ample and well-maintained network of country paths for hiking and biking, with events such as the Orbea Rioja Alavesa Wine Gravel Trail (@orbeagravelriojaalavesa) combining cycling with winery visits and even cooking lessons for participants and their families.

Along with wine, food is one of the main draws of Rioja, with countless tapas bars in Logroño, the region’s largest city, as well as in towns like Laguardia, Labastida, Haro or Alfaro (see p54). Fine-dining establishments have also sprung up in recent years, and Rioja now boasts seven Michelinstar restaurants, most of them offering menus at more friendly prices than elsewhere in Europe.

Visitors seeking a bit of luxury in Rioja will be pleased to discover that a number of recent openings cater for generous budgets, with more coming soon. Family-friendly wine tourism has improved, too, with a greater number of accommodation options particularly suited to children, and wineries organising activities involving all the family. Dogs are also now welcome in a growing number of places.

In this article are my recommendations for things to do and places to stay all over the region (please note that these aren’t strict itineraries), according to your needs. Unless indicated, prices are per night for two people, including breakfast.

BEST FOR FOODIES

In northern Spain, San Sebastián deservedly ranks among Europe’s greatest cities for food lovers, but

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