David Ellis reviews July: Talented chef held captive by menu cut off in mid flow
by David Ellis
May 09, 2024
3 minutes
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The word, I suppose, is perplexed. Or perhaps it’s baffled. Or maybe it’s just “why?” Turns of phrase are usually a strong suit but in its way, July has left me speechless. Or at least indecisive.
July is a badly named, poorly laid-out place in , billed as a but probably just a bar in disguise. Excellent, expensive wine, and food that’s not beautiful — it’s too simple for that — but largely beautifully done.
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