wenty years ago, when I first started climbing Kilimanjaro, it's fair to say the mountain was in a pretty parlous state. Its campsites were filthy, its paths strewn with litter, while the people who made their living on the mountain — the porters, cooks and guides — were often underpaid and overworked by the companies that employed them. Worryingly, there were also some very gloomy predictions that the mountain's famed snowy summit was
