David Ellis On the Sauce at Sale e Pepe: Drinks from the Seventies — but there’s life in the old tratt yet

All good things must come to an end. Unless, that is, you’re an old Italian tratt, given the immutable mix of veal Milanese and waiters delivering deafening choruses of Happy Birthday has long proven invulnerable to changing tastes. Still, every now and then, something happens: an owner — one of those big-glasses, brown-trousered