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HAVE YOU GOT YOUR SIGHTS set on a midsummer epic in the Lakes but need a ‘Plan B’ just in case? Ambleside could be the answer. Sandwiched between high fells and the more sedately rolling hills of the South Lakes, this tiny town at the northern tip of Windermere offers the best of both worlds. Towering over the slate roofs to the north are the long, shapely ridges leading up to Fairfield (873m) and Red Screes (776m). Lower tops easily accessed from the town on foot include Loughrigg Fell (335m) and Wansfell Pike (482m).
Ambleside is geared up for visitors, particularly those of the Gore-Tex-clad variety. You won’t get snooty looks in cafés for having muddy boots or be turned away from a B&B if you’re dripping from head