David Ellis reviews the Hero, Maida Vale: This might just be the world’s most beautiful pub

I’m a fan of second chances, as anyone who has dated me can wearily attest. I treat them as one of life’s necessities (see also: food, water, boat shoes), so had an inkling the Hero in Maida Vale might deserve another run at things as I prodded a pellet of yellow-coloured mayo attempting to pass for curry sauce. “Sorry,” I muttered to Twiggs, “I was told this was London’s hottest restaurant.”

But everywhere has its off days. And, as it happens, crap food is (door policy: eights and over, unless you’re royalty), and later the Bull in Charlbury (door policy: off the telly).