Texas Highways Magazine

Against the Current

A sign on the door atViola& Agnes’ Neo Soul Cafe in Seabrook proclaims: “If you are in a hurry or want fast food, this café may not be the best choice.”

Some may see that as a playful warning. But it’s really part of a promise, one that includes the reward of a “fresh, local, honest meal,” according to chef and owner Aaron Davis. Because real food takes time. And diverse, deeply flavored dishes as good as Davis’ island-tinged soul food can take as long as they please.

Take his filé gumbo, for instance, which has deep umami notes from the use of dried shrimp—something more

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