THE WAITER SETS DOWN a plain white bowl with a meticulously engineered wall of rice down the middle. On one side, vegetables and meat float on top of a still pool of honey brown curry, which presses against the wall, threatening a deluge. On the other side, emptiness. I pick up my spoon. Slowly, I begin to dig. My attack steadily weakens the wall, grain by grain.
Finally, the dam breaks. Curry pours through the rice to the other side. Free at last.
(dam curry)—a dish that encourages the eater
