This paradise island has got its mojo back – cheaper than Bali and without the crowds

“The closest thing I’ve ever seen to Eden” – this is how award-winning actor Sam Neill describes Bali, and for many years the Indonesian island – one of 17,000 – has been a paradisiacal getaway for famous folk and the rest of us civilians.

But the past few years have seen its idyllic reputation begin to tarnish. Its oh-so-attractive beaches are suffering: due to waste management issues, much of the country’s 300,000 tons of plastic waste end up on its beaches or in waterways. Often you’ll see reports of unruly tourists violating holy sites, drink driving and causing fatal road accidents.

In 2023, 5.2 million people descended on looking to experience its alluring blend of desert island vistas, hospitality for all budgets, world-class scuba diving and heady nightlife. By of that year, 213 of those visitors had been deported for inappropriate behaviour. Today, the streets of Seminyak are still bustling,