The notion of quality is no longer enough. Wine has to be interesting.’ Deep in the catacombs of Jean-Louis Chave’s cellars in the northern Rhône, we were discussing the characteristics of great wine. And although firstly ‘good quality’ is what we all seek, it’s not that simple any more. For a growing contingent of wine lovers, finding a producer whose values chime with their own is a second key criterion. And there’s a third prerequisite that the best wines all
