National Geographic Traveller (UK)

time and tide

Diane Walton clearly remembers the first time she plunged into the frigid waters of the San Francisco Bay, almost 20 years ago. “It was so cold that I thought my organs might explode!” the 73-year-old says, her long, grey hair streaming behind her as we sit on a wooden jetty basking in the bright, mid-morning Californian sunshine. One of the local sea lions strung out along the sand barks a laugh as if in response.

Today, the water lapping at our ankles is a brisk 12.7C. But you wouldn’t know it from watching the swimmers around us, who are snapping on

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