I went to Finland in search of wilderness. I wasn’t naïve. I knew that there’s nowhere left in Europe untouched by human hand. Even so, I believed I might find a place where people were outsiders: a presence in the ecosystem, perhaps, but an unimportant one.
One week later, and my view had changed. For it was there, in the country that birthed Nokia and the Moomins, that I first understood the place of humans in the wild.
From Helsinki, I travelled
