Cook's Illustrated

Pesto of the Islands

Fifty-five nautical miles southwest of Sicily sits Pantelleria. The windswept volcanic island, which is governed by the Sicilian province of Trapani but is geographically closer to Tunisia, was historically difficult to access by boat or plane, so the inhabitants ate almost exclusively what they grew or produced themselves.

“In general, the food in Pantelleria depends on creativity rather than variety,” said Mary Taylor Simeti, an American-born author who has lived in Sicily for decades and written about the culture and cuisine. “Doing imaginative things with a fairly

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