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nlike winter squashes, summer squashes are selected to be harvested before they have reached full maturity, when their rinds are tender and seeds, a billiard ball–shaped hybrid first cultivated in California in the 1990s (the yellow-skinned version is known, of course, as the one-ball). Zucchini-shaped squashes abound in Italy, including the and both of which might be sliced and fried, shredded and frittered, or folded into scrambled eggs. also known as calabash, is mild and faintly cucumber-flavored; it appears in soups and stir-fries in China. is particularly beloved in Lebanon, where it is hollowed out, stuffed with rice and lamb, and braised in a spiced tomato sauce to make the dish kousa mihshi. known for its scalloped edges and tender flesh, has been cultivated in the Northeast for hundreds of years, as has the mild, nutty Similar in flavor to the crookneck is the squash, an heirloom variety that looks, but doesn’t taste, like its namesake citrus. squashes look like wonky pattypans—their shape is often compared to an overflowing, flat-topped muffin. squashes can quickly grow to impressive sizes; in 2017, a British gardener grew one that was a record-breaking 68 inches long.