Coil-building is one of the oldest pottery techniques, and many cultures have unique methods and styles. It allows for a wide range of shapes and sizes, from small pots to large, complex forms, and gives a unique finish, with subtle variations and textures. Best of all, it requires minimal equipment and can be done by potters of all experience levels.
Coil pots can be very strong and durable, especially when the coils are properly blended and compressed. The layering technique can add structural integrity to larger pieces and you can control the thickness of the walls more easily than when throwing – particularly for beginners. This is particularly beneficial for creating larger pieces that need additional support.
Here are two coiling projects, one small, one large.
MAKING A COIL BOWL
The right clay
The clay used for coiling must be plastic to prevent it from cracking as you build the form –your pottery supplier will be able to advise you on the best type of clay to meet your needs, but generally:
● Adding 20-30% grog or sand to your clay will increase its strength.
● The bigger the item to be built, the groggier the clay should be
● Some clay, like T-Material, has impressive properties that allow you to continue building even while the form's lower section is drying out. It also has amazing thermal shock resilience, which makes it an excellent choice for extreme firing methods like Raku. The only drawback is that it is expensive! Try mixing it half and half with a less expensive clay, which fires to the same temperature to reduce the cost a little – make sure the two clays are wedged together very thoroughly.
● Smooth clays like porcelain are much harder to coil, so they can only be used
