The 6pm breeze carries a strong, salty tang. Above the limestone cliffs of Oxwich Point, a rabbit hops from the heather and begins to graze. Way out beyond the headland, a low sun blazes on the sea.
I’ve been walking all day and my bed for the night is under a mile away, but I stop, unshouldering my backpack and resting my limbs on the grass. The waves fall and crash. There’s no one else in sight: it’s just me, the evening and the wilds of the scenery. And the rabbit, of course, but the hungry bunny and I know the same thing: times like this are sent to be savoured.
When you’re walking on the Gower Peninsula, these moments come regularly. I’m nearing the end of day two on a three-day walk following the Wales Coast Path around the edge of the Gower map, from the village of Crofty in the north round to Mumbles in the south. The
