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TRAVEL International
A giant grey shape looms in the dusk at the edge of our camp, quietly observing us, his white tusks glowing. As we light a fire and pour drinks, the gentle giant browses the nyala berry tree nearby and then, suddenly, he’s gone.
Gonarezhou National Park in south-eastern Zimbabwe is a land of giants. Apart from over 11000 elephants, there are hundreds of enormous baobabs and other towering trees, such as jackalberry and nyala berry trees. Three great rivers run through this 500 000-ha park - the Runde, Save and Mwenezi - massive sand rivers with broad floodplains, giant cliffs and gorges.
You see few vehicles in this park. It’s not a place for those who want Jeep jockeys with good stories and a bath filled with rose petals at the end of the day. As Simon Capon, the director of Gonarezhou Conservation Trust, says, ‘Wilderness is our brand. We want people to feel they