Where vast American cruise ships once disgorged mojito-thirsty holidaymakers into the crumbling streets of old Havana, now lurks the eerie darkness of the Russian nuclear-powered submarine Kazan.
“It looks like a dead whale,” said Adolfo García, as he queued under the scorching sun. The Kazan is off-limits, but García was hoping for a tour of the frigate Admiral Gorshkov, the second of the four Russian naval vessels that had just docked in the Cuban capital.