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ORE THAN 20 YEARS AGO, I fell in love. If he had been from Chicago, I would have moved to Chicago. But he was from Utrecht, so I moved to Utrecht. It seemed romantic to start a new life in the Netherlands—and it was. But it was also disorienting, and I found myself, to use a Dutch expression, in an upside-down world: in a new language, in a new culture, among people who, though they didn’t look much different from Americans, were the products of an entirely different history.