It's a cloudy and crisp morning, still dark. The proverbial rooster has yet to crow. On an open game viewer we go slow and steady down Grootberg mountain. Just as the first light of dawn appears, a soft rain breaks. That is not ideal for rhino tracking but we remain optimistic, and soon enough the rising sun dries up the fine droplets, marking the start of a rugged journey into the habitat of Namibia's endangered black rhino.
And rugged it is. Damaraland, and the Grootberg area in particular, is one bumpy ride. Part of the pleasures of this landscape's surreal rock formations go hand in hand with
