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THE ACCIDENTAL FREESURFER

The frenzied race to the bottom of Internet content and the narrowed focus of contest judging criteria have arguably homogenised what comes to mind when the words ‘professional surfer’ are said out loud.

However, the fact the thruster design has remained fundamentally unchanged for over three decades has allowed a younger generation of surfers to appreciate and discover some of the most iconic surfing ever performed on three rudders. Top of the list for many of those seeking inspiration in the rear-view mirror is Brenden ‘Margo’ Margieson.

Much of Brenden Margieson’s recent resurgence can be attributed to his good friend and longtime collaborator, Justin Gane, who’s responsible for the lauded public service of archiving and redistributing prime surfing from an era that was, for better or for worse, free of social media.

During his heyday, Margo was an unassuming and fairly enigmatic character in Jack McCoy’s movies. Unlike co-stars such as Occy, Sunny, Luke Egan, Shane Dorian, and Ross Williams, his parts weren’t supplemented with ASP tour appearances, inevitably leaving the audience craving more of the stylish, knock-kneed, narrow-stance, natural-footer.

Margo’s, unrelenting, top-to-bottom, power approach didn’t distinguish between a two-foot morsel and a solid, 10-foot face. Margo would paddle out at uncrowded, maxing Haleiwa to throw a 7’2’’ around like the toothpick he’d used to pluck at the remnants of his Hawaiian plate-lunch. Notably, the approach at sketchy, super-sized Haleiwa was no different to his attack on a D’Bah rip bowl.

Big Brenden’s style and influence are unquestionably evident in the body English of surfers like Andy, Parko, and Rasta, who were, coincidentally, his contemporaries at the Billabong stable. One might even trace this lineage to a younger generation of surfers, including Creed McTaggart and Jai Glindeman, both providing current and ample evidence of the enduring legacy

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