SPRING IS THE GAYEST SEASON for London restaurant openings. Arlington, July, The Cocochine, Lita, Oma — which to choose?
Sometimes though, amidst the merry whirl of town life, it can be refreshing to dine in a restaurant that isn’t hustling for your attention, a place that no one will ask you if you’ve been to yet, which is entirely free of list-checking, status-adjacent anxiety.
Royal China on Baker Street has been exactly such a restaurant since it opened in 2005. It’s not the latest, or
