f everybody had a guardian angel, my mother always said, I had a whole team of them watching over me since childhood. Dirt bikes, motor-cycles, martial arts, mountain climbing, kayaking—I’d had my share of injuries, but I didn’t want to let go of my adventurous spirit. So when some professional surfer friends invited me to join them for a video shoot, I agreed in a second. Maybe I wasn’t a pro surfer, but I had plenty of experience in the water. And I certainly knew enough to wear a wetsuit—the surfer’s key layer of protection against the cold or sun, his skin rubbing against the board, and just about anything he might
