With an expansive, west-facing beach and dunes, Barmouth has been a popular destination for holidaymakers since Victorian times. There are donkey rides, a fun fair and amusement arcades.
Less well known is the wealth of walks starting in the town. There are hikes up ‘The Rock’ of Old Town with views of the Mawddach estuary and onwards up the hill of Dinas Oleu. After that exertion, the chip shops, ice cream parlours and doughnut stands might appeal. Otherwise, new cafes selling acai bowls and quesadillas are appearing. Meanwhile new hotels feature upcycled furniture and rain showers. The place feels on the cusp of change.
We arrive by train after a spectacularly scenic journey which hugs the coast and crosses the long wooden railway and pedestrian bridge for which Barmouth is famed. The train station is in the middle of town. It is a short walk to our accommodation, The Tilman, a bar with
