Mention the James Beard Foundation, and folks think of chic restaurants, white chef’s hats and hand-plated hors d'oeuvres.
My favorite James Beard Award-winner is much more down-home. Los Hernandez is a humble eatery housed in a whitewashed, cinder-block edifice in tiny Union Gap, in central Washington. Family members dish up handmade tamales packed with dense masa and a spicy core of chicken, pork or (if you drop by at the right time in spring)
