Mexico's Tabasco, Oaxaca, Chiapas & Palenque

By Joanie Sanchez

This guide is drawn from our larger book on Mexico's Gulf Coast, but here we focus on Tabasco, Oaxaca, Villahermosa, Chiapas & Palenque. We travel to grow – our Adventure Guides show you how. Experience the places you visit more directly, freshly, intens

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Feb 23, 2010
• ISBN: 9781588439321

Book preview

Mexico's Tabasco, Oaxaca, Chiapas & Palenque

Joanie Sanchez

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,

www.hunterpublishing.com

Ulysses Travel Publications

4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec

Canada H2W 2M5

tel. [phone], ext. 2232; fax [phone]

Windsor Books

The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington

Oxford, OX44 9EJ England

tel. [phone]; fax [phone]

©  Hunter Publishing, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems causead by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

Introduction

Using This Guide

Geography

Climate

Ecology

Fauna

Flora

History

Timeline

The Spanish Arrival

Hernan Cortés

Independence

War

Revolution

Post-Revolution

The Zapatista Movement

Government

Economy

People

Culture & Customs

Hello? Goodbye?

Is this a Line?

Is It Open?

Where Can I Find&?

How Do I Dress?

Travel

Getting Here

By Air

Airlines Serving the Gulf Coast

By Car

By Bus

Getting Around

By Bus

By Car

By Taxi

Customs

Entering

Returning

Entry Requirements

Practicalities

Time, Measurements & Electricity

Pack Small or Bring it All?

Disabled Travelers

Communications

Making Calls

Mail

Bathrooms

Laundry

Money

Currency

Taxes

Traveler's Checks

Credit Cards

Health

Common Ailments

More Serious Diseases

Medical Insurance

Vaccinations

Safety & Crime

Checkpoints

Emergency Assistance

Breaking the Law

Shopping

Tipping

When to Go

Holidays

National Holidays

National Celebrations

Festivals & Events

Food & Drink

Where to Eat

Regional Specialties

Local Fruits

Spices

Drinks

Accommodations

Hotel Expectations

Camping

Adventures

On Foot

Hiking

Caving

Hunting

Archaeological Discoveries

On Water

Fishing

Boating

Rafting/Kayaking

Beaches

On Wheels

Biking

Entertainment

Information Sources

General Information

Place-Specific Websites

Embassies & Consulates

Tabasco

Villahermosa

Orientation & Practicalities

Getting There

Getting Around

Sightseeing

Adventures

Cultural & Eco-Travel

Nature Park

Chocolate Plantation Tour

Festival

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

The Coast

Western Tabasco

Adventures

Cultural & Eco-Travel

The Sierras

Eastern Tabasco

Adventures

Archaeological Discoveries

Oaxaca

Tuxtepec

Orientation & Practicalities

Getting There & Around

Adventures

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Ixtlán de Juárez

Ixtlán de Juárez

Guelatao

And Beyond&

Chiapas

Orientation & Practicalities

Getting There & Around

Cautions

Tour Operators/Travel Agents

Adventures

Archaeological Discoveries

The Ruins of Palenque

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Farther into Chiapas

Appendix

Useful Words & Phrases

Time

Weekdays

Months

Around Town

In the Hotel

Planes, Trains, & Automobiles

Numbers

Bibliography

Introduction

Volcanoes... rainforests... ruins... throw in a few colossal stone heads, some world-renowned birding locations, an island filled with monkeys, and festivals culminating with bulls running the streets - and you've only begun to glimpse all that Mexico's Gulf Coast has to offer. If you know of anyone who's been here, that's probably why you've picked up this book. You've heard their remarkable tales: of rafting through untouched jungle past ancient ruins, of easily sumitting one of the tallest peaks in North America, of swinging through the treetops in a remote jungle village. And maybe you've heard the tales from their friends as well: of sitting in a zócalo (a central square) sipping coffee and listening to guitarists play late into the night, of eating fresher-than-fresh seafood on the beach, of an exhilarating outing to an ancient Indian burial ground. Are you ready to make those memories yours?

The region, which includes the states of Tamaulipas, Veracruz, and Tabasco, is a little bit country, a little bit rock and roll. Roads to some of the best places are little-touristed, and located in the middle of villages (not cities). And so you find large four-legged beasts wandering across the road, prices that are truly inexpensive, and natives that are unlikely to speak much English (or, in some cases, Spanish!) You'll find biosphere reserves and remote areas that still host toucans, jaguars, and monkeys, as well as stretches of coastal grasslands that have nothing (save the occasional vulture) as far as the eye can see. And then you can go back to your hotel in a huge, colorful, cosmopolitan city with an endless assortment of restaurants, events, and action.

A popular destination of locals, the region is starting to get more interest from European visitors too, but is often overlooked by many travelers due to the popularity of Mexico's mega-resorts. For those seeking an unforgettable cultural experience, this is truly too bad. Culturally, the region is unparalleled - from the rhythmic dance and music of Veracruz (the birthplace of the famous song La Bamba), which will have hips grooving to the beat - to the world-class museums and art galleries of Xalapa. Local festivals and events take place in many towns and are not to be missed.

The more adventurous traveler will be well-rewarded too. With several large rivers, Mexico's tallest mountain, and miles of coastline, the area offers unsurpassed opportunities for river rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, diving, fishing, and camping - to name but a few. Archaeology buffs will enjoy the many ancient ruins, including one of Mexico's most important archaeological sites - El Tajín. Even movie producers have celebrated the area's pure natural beauty. Check out the jungles in Romancing the Stone and Medicine Man.

The Niches Pyramid at El Tajín

So are you ready for an unforgettable visit and a remarkable adventure? Why are you still reading? Pack your bags; you're going to the Gulf Coast!

Using This Guide

Many folks choose to drive through the Gulf Coast region - some simply on a weekend exploration trip from the Texas border, while others are in it for the longer haul - using a drive as a cheap alternative to get to the Yucatán. But there is no need to wander around aimlessly or drive so far - this book starts at the border (with the state of Tamaulipas) and heads south through the states of Veracruz and into Tabasco. It shows you how to explore the entire eastern coastline of México.

One of the Gulf Coast's more attractive features is that the region is a little bit wilder than other well-touristed spots - it's therefore less accessible and a bit underdeveloped. You won't find many international flights into the region,so your trip is going to require careful planning, beginning with entry through either one of the aforementioned airports, or through México City. Plan on basing yourself in a large city (at least initially), and from there you can take either local buses to surrounding sites or rent a car. Check out the travel agencies; some of them can arrange transportation to and from México City or the Puerto de Veracruz.

Geography

Of the more than 6,000 miles of coastline in México, the Gulf Coast accounts for about 15% of the total: some 900 miles, starting at the Texas border (which is formed by the Río Bravo del Norte, or Río Grande), and continuing down to the end of Tabasco and the beginning of the Yucatán. Three states comprise the coastline. In the north there's the short squat state of Tamaulipas, then the long, narrow state of Veracruz (dominating the central portion) and, at the southern end, the tiny state of Tabasco.

The Gulf coastal plains are marshy and flat, for the most part populated by fishermen and ranchers. The farther south you travel, the more rainfall you see, and vegetation and jungle increase proportionately; the shrubby plains of Tamaulipas cross the Tropic of Cancer, and eventually turn into swampy jungle-covered marshlands in Tabasco. Until about 50 years ago, much of the swampy area along the coast was infested with mosquitoes and flooded. However, the construction of dams, drainage of swamps, and cultivation of lands has controlled much of the problem. In Tabasco, particularly outside of the main cities, you'll still want to wear plenty of insect repellent.

To the east, always within view, the land rises up, forming a natural barrier between the coastline and the rest of the country. This is the Sierra Madre Oriental. The mountains are lush and tropical; rivers flow down from them to the ocean - a huge attraction for rafters. On the other side of the mountain range is the Altiplano Central, where a large percentage of the Mexican population lives. Near San Andres Tuxtla, a volcanic area emerges, the Cordillera Neovolcánica, connecting the Sierra Madre Oriental with the more westerly Sierra Madre Occidental. The highest mountains in México are here, including the Pico de Orizaba (Citlaltepetl) rising up more than 18,000 feet. There is still some volcanic activity here as well - the most recent volcano emerging in 1943 in the western state of Machoacan. Earthquakes are a fear throughout the entire chain, and many cities, including Xalapa and Orizaba, have suffered destruction becaue of them.

Climate

Over the extensive length of the Gulf Coast, there is something to please just about every taste. The northern section of Tamaulipas lies above the Tropic of Cancer in a mild climate of dry flatlands. South of the line, it becomes hot and humid along the coast, with large amounts of rain year-round, but particularly during the rainy season (May-October). Some of the bigger ports during these months can be absolutely stifling, and you'd be well-advised to pay the few extra dollars for a room with air-conditioning. As you travel inland, the elevation rises, and the temperature drops; summer months in Xalapa, for example, may require a light sweater in the mornings, while winter requires hat and mittens. The whole coastline is also subject to hurricanes (defined as storms with winds exceeding 74 mph), a constant threat to the coast during the hurricane season, which runs from around August to October. If a storm hits full-force, you don't want to be around the coastline at all. Roadways are flooded and completely disappear, houses and hotels are soaked inside and out with water, and everybody is holed up for days.

Hurricanes are rated in categories. A Category 1 hurricane is the smallest type, and therefore causes the least amount of damage. Categories 2-4 become progressively stronger (a 4 can be devastating), and a Category 5 hurricane is the strongest and most frightening of them all, with winds exceeding 155 mph. If a Category 5 hurricane is headed your way, clear out!

Ecology

There are two things you'll notice when you visit Tabasco or Veracruz. The first, is how green and lush the surroundings are (they'll become greener and more lush the deeper into Tabasco you go). The second is the amazing degree to which much of that beautiful foliage has been cleared out to make way for ranches, plantations, and fields. The plentiful flora and fauna are disappearing. The huge flocks of parrots that you could once see flying overhead have mostly disappeared, the large mammals that once called much of the jungle home have retreated, the toucans are now so rare you probably won't see one. Even the jungle itself is seen only while traveling on secondary roads; many main roadsides have been cleared off for industry. Deforestation has had a huge impact on the environment - approximately 95% of Tabasco's jungles alone have been destroyed thanks to the ugly problem. Much of the more exotic wildlife has now retreated to the remote reaches of Tabasco bordering with Chiapas. In Veracruz, the wildlife has moved back as well. You'll now find the greatest diversity near the border with Oaxaca. In Tamaulipas, the Reserva de la Biosfera El Cielo has a number of different ecosystems, including a tropical forest and a cloud forest, and is home to some of the wilder animals you might be hoping to find (such as wildcats). What the Gulf Coast does still have, however, is a huge variety of birds - wetlands along the coast of Tamaulipas, Tabasco, and Veracruz (in particular) are well-known for the vast numbers of migratory birds. In addition, the Reserva de la Biosfera de Centla in Tabasco has proved an excellent refuge for wetland animals, including many that are nearing extinction.

Fauna

The most exciting local wildlife for many people are the wildcats native to the region. Unfortunately, however, though they are still around, they now live only in the most remote reaches of the jungle. Among them is one of México's most popular animals - thanks to its importance in the ancient Maya culture - the jaguar. A huge feline that can measure more than six feet in length and weigh more than 300 pounds, the jaguar is one of the most beautiful and most powerful predators in the jungle, identified by its short yellowish-brown pelt covered by small black spots. Slightly smaller than the