Nicaragua's Caribbean Coast & the Corn Islands

By Erica Rounsefel

Nicaragua is the largest Central American country, yet also one of the least visited. Its strongest assets are its vibrant, unpretentious way of life and its natural beauty that remains largely untouched. The country lays claim to Central America's larges

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Dec 30, 2012
• ISBN: 9781556500992

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cause.

About the Author

Erica Rounsefell is a freelance writer in Washington, DC. Originally from Stayton, Oregon (population 6,000), Erica has traveled, studied, and worked in more than 70 countries, including a year-long stint as a Fulbright Scholar in South Korea. She first went to Nicaragua to volunteer at a home for street children. Erica has a BA in Government and International Relations and a MA in International Development from Clark University in Worcester, MA. She welcomes readers' stories and suggestions and can be reached at [e-mail].

Acknowledgments

Gracias enormes go to the guys at Quinta Los Chavalos in Granada, including Juan Carlos, Julio, Mario, Moises, Ismael, and Ezequiel, for introducing me to la vida granadina on my first visits to Nicaragua. Billy Bob Matuz Sequeira showed me the best Juigalpa has to offer. Donna Tabor, el juigalpino Mike Knowles, and Rafael Praslin were also instrumental in my research. Thanks to the Peace Corps Volunteers taking the Foreign Service Exam at the U.S. Embassy in Managua for tips about their regions. Marissa Davies was always up for adventures in Bluefields, the Corn Islands, and Granada. Thanks also to mi hermano Chris for killing cockroaches and exploring the Northern Highlands with me.

Using This Book

Phone numbers, email addresses, websites, and even business locations change rapidly in Nicaragua; if you're planning a detour to visit a specific attraction, restaurant, or hotel, it's worth getting in touch in advance to confirm its continued existence. Some hotels and restaurants and hotels, especially in smaller towns, do not have phones. Hotel and restaurant listings are loosely listed in this book in the order of value for the money; generally, hotels and restaurants that are unclean or have some other quality that renders them not worthy of a recommendation are eliminated from the listings. However, in some isolated locations there are few accommodation and dining options; be prepared for the occasional cockroach, and you'll have great stories to tell your friends when you get home

Introduction

Nicaragua is the largest Central American country, yet also one of the least visited. It does not have the archaeological ruins or the national parks that attract visitors to other parts of Central America; rather, its strongest assets are its vibrant, unpretentious way of life and its natural beauty that remains largely untouched. This is not to say that Nicaragua is without its attractions: the country lays claim to Central America's largest lake, Lago de Nicaragua, and the oldest Spanish city in the continental Americas, Granada. Nicaragua also offers nature reserves brimming with wildlife, uncrowded beaches, well-preserved colonial architecture, and a growing number of excellent ecotourism opportunities.  

Until the late 1990s, Nicaragua received few visitors beyond foreign workers. Lingering visions of recent revolution and civil war kept travelers away, but the country has emerged from decades of political instability to transform itself into a peaceful nation with an eye on the future while retaining its passion for traditional culture. The tourism industry in Nicaragua is still in its infancy, and limited infrastructure and little promotion abroad mean that Nicaragua remains largely off the radar for tourists. And this is precisely the reason to go there. Though Nicaragua continues to be a sought-after destination for adventurous travelers eager to experience adrenaline-filled water sports and land-based outdoors activities, upscale hotels and resorts are becoming increasingly common, attracting visitors looking for relaxation. More and more visitors are becoming aware of Nicaragua's opportunities to get away from it all by relaxing on Pacific beaches or secluded private islands and experiencing nature through boating  or birdwatching.

Shoppers find that the markets offer quality crafts, and it is often possible to meet the artisans themselves. Visitors can improve their Spanish through a language course and homestay, or they can volunteer in a local community to get an inside look at the country and its people.  

With ample biodiversity and cultural offerings, Nicaragua is unlikely to remain off the tourism map for long. For now, however, many travelers are inclined to keep the secrets of its picturesque lakes, lush rainforests, secluded beaches, and vibrant cultures to themselves.

Guardabarranco, national bird of Nicaragua

THE PEOPLE

Nicaraguans, who often refer to themselves as Nicas, are renowned for their friendly and welcoming nature. Visitors are still a curiosity in many parts of the country, and most tourists feel warmly received. Local markets and festivals offer glimpses into traditional rural life, while Managua boasts all of the trappings of a large urban area.  

Five and a half-million people call Nicaragua home, with one-fourth of the country's population residing in Managua, the nation's sprawling capital of over one million. The country's two other main cities, León and Granada, retain the relaxed air of large towns and are favorites with visitors for their colonial architecture and numerous sites of cul- tural and historical distinction.  

Nicaragua is multiethnic and multi-cultural. The majo- rity of the population is Mestizo (mixed indigenous and white. This group is associated with much of Nicaragua's vibrant folklore, music, dance, and religious tradition. On the Atlantic Coast there is a strong African influence, particularly evident in local food and music, which stems from black workers brought in by the British to work on plantations. A trickle of immigration from the Caribbean, particularly Jamaica, continues to diversify the sparsely-settled Caribbean region. Small populations of indigenous peoples, who live primarily along the Caribbean coast, include the Miskito, Sumu, and Rama. The population is 69% Mestizo, 17% white, 9% black and 5% indigenous.  

Nicaragua has the smallest population in Central America, but it is also the fastest-growing country in the region. Many Nicaraguans have moved abroad seeking economic opportunity; the most common destinations are Costa Rica, with an estimated 700,000 Nicaraguans, and the US, with a half-million.

RELIGION

Roman Catholic 72.9%, Evangelical 15.1%, Moravian 1.5%, Episcopalian 0.1%, other 1.9%, none 8.5%. Though most Nicaraguans identify themselves as Catholics, many are non-practicing. Evangelical Protestant groups are growing rapidly, especially in rural areas. Nicaragua has no official religion. Many Nicaraguans enjoy discussing religion, both theirs and yours, and will express surprise and confusion if you profess to have no religion.  

LANGUAGE

Spanish is the official language of Nicaragua, and it is spoken by 97% of the population. English and indigenous languages, including Miskito, are spoken on the Caribbean coast. The English of the Caribbean coast has developed a unique regional personality, though locals will often use a more standard form of English when speaking with foreigners. The country's literacy rate is 67% for both men and women.  

THE ARTS

MUSIC & DANCE

Nicaraguans are enthusiastic musicians and dancers, and you are likely to be encouraged to get up and join in the fun. Nicaragua's national instrument is the marimba, which is made from strips of wood attached to bamboo or metal tubes of varying lengths. The instrument is played with soft hammers and is usually accompanied by guitars and drums. Music in the Atlantic region has a strong Afro-Caribbean influence, and reggae music is common. An excellent occasion to experience the sensual regional music and dance of the Caribbean Coast is at the Palo de Mayo (Maypole) Festival in Bluefields throughout late May.  

Though Nicaraguans listen to music from throughout Latin America and beyond (young Nicas are particularly fond of pop, and many Atlantic Coast residents have a penchant for American country music), local singers are well-regarded by Nicaraguans.  

Marimba keys are usually made from rosewood

TIP: For an excellent introduction to traditional and contemporary Nicaraguan music, you can download free music clips from the website of the Nicaragua Ministry of Tourism, www.intur.gob.ni/english/musica/musica.html.  

One of the country's most prominent singers is Carlos Mejía Godoy, whose songs are inspired by life in Nicaragua. Mejía Godoy and his brother, composer Luís Enrique, showcase their work at La Casa de los Mejía Godoy (The House of the Mejía Godoys) in Managua. Other prominent Nicaraguan performers include Lia Barrios, Camilo Zapata, Salvador and Katia Cardenal, and the band Dimensión Costeña.

THEATER

Though performances can be a challenge to find, Nicaragua has a theatrical heritage stemming from the country's indigenous ancestors. Many works are performed during festivals and can also be experienced at the Teatro Nacional Rubén Darío in Managua or the Casa de los Tres Mundos in Granada. Look for Los Caballeros Elegantes del Toro Guaco (The Elegant Gentlemen of the Guaco Bull) and El Drama Epico del Gigante (The Epic Drama of the Giant). Try www.vianica.com/thisweek.php for weekly performance listings countrywide.  

Casa de los Tres Mundos

TRADITIONAL ARTS & CRAFTS

Nicaragua's tradition of arts and crafts isn't as prolific as that of some other areas of Central America, though this is hard to believe if you pay a visit to Masaya's bustling markets, the destination of much of the country's artesanía. Nonetheless, artisan communities can be visited in several places around the country, and Nicaragua is known in particular for its unique pottery produced in the Pueblos Blancos (p 195) and the Northern Highlands, quality hammocks from Masaya (p 134), and Primitivist paintings and balsa wood carvings from Solentiname.

SOLENTINAME'S PRIMITIVIST PAINTERS  

Many of Nicaragua's finest painters hail from Solentiname, a group of more than 30 remote islands in the southern part of Lago de Nicaragua. The artistic tradition began in 1966 when a sculptor and poet from Granada, Ernesto Cardenal, arrived in Solentiname. He was so impressed by the natural talent displayed by many of the islands' inhabitants for carving balsa wood and dried fruit that he invited a friend, Pérez de la Rocha, to the island. Together, they founded the Primitivist art school