Santo Domingo - Dominican Republic
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Santo Domingo - Dominican Republic - Fe Lisa Bencosme
Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic
Fe Liza Bencosme & Clark Norton
HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,
www.hunterpublishing.com
Ulysses Travel Publications
4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec
Canada H2W 2M5
514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax 514-843-9448
The Roundhouse Group
5 Castle End Park, Castle End Road
Ruscombe, Berkshire RG10 9XQ, England
01865-361122; fax 01865-361133
© 2010 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
This and other Hunter travel guides are also available as e-books
in a variety of digital formats through our online partners,
including Netlibrary.com, Amazon.com and BarnesandNoble.com.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.
This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.
Maps by Kim André & Toni Wheeler © 2010 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
Preface
Introduction
History
Government & Economy
Government
Elections
Economy
Engines of the Economy
Geography
Diverse Terrain
The Mountains
The Lowlands
Climate
Altitude Variations
Seasonal Variations
Rainfall
Hurricanes & Tropical Storms
Flora & Fauna
Flora
Notable Trees
Fauna
Land Mammals
Sea Mammals
Humpback Whales
Manatees
Reptiles & Amphibians
American Crocodiles
Iguanas
Sea Turtles
Fish & Shellfish
Coral
Birds
Endemic (Unique) Species
Water Birds
Mountain Birds
Flying Mammals
Insects
National Parks & Reserves
Major National Parks
Armando Bermúdez & José del Carmen Ramírez National Parks
Parque Nacional del Este
Parque Nacional Isabela de Torres
Parque Nacional Isla Cabritos
Parque Nacional Jaragua
Parque Nacional La Isabela
Parque Nacional Los Haitises
Parque Nacional Montecristi
Parque Nacional Sierra Bahoruco
Parque Nacional Submarino La Caleta
Major Scientific Reserves & Sanctuaries
Laguna Rincón Reserve
Reserva Científica Valle Nuevo
Silver Bank Sanctuary (Santuario de Mamiferos Marinos)
For More Information
Culture & Customs
Language
Greetings & Manners
Dress
Music
Society
Responsible Tourism
Practical Information
Documents You'll Need
The Tourist Card
Embarkation/Disembarkation Cards
Extending Your Stay
Traveling with Children
Embassies & Consulates Abroad
United States
Canada
United Kingdom
What to Expect Upon Arrival
Immigration & Customs
Money Matters
Changing Money
Tipping
Bargaining
Pre-Trip Planning
When to Go
National Holidays
Events
Climate
How to Get There
Tourism Boards
United States
Canada
United Kingdom
Maps
Websites
Accommodations
All-Inclusive Chain Resorts
Independent Hotels
Apart-Hotels
Guest Houses & Pensións
Camping
Price Ranges
Our Selections
Eating & Drinking
Where to Eat Dominican Food
What to Eat
Must-Try Dominican Dishes
Dominican Fast Food
Beverages
Fruit Juices
Coffee
Alcoholic Beverages
Desserts
Service
Menu Prices
When to Eat
Our Selections
Getting Around
Domestic Flights
Taxis
Public Transportation
Inter-City Buses
Rental Cars
Health Concerns
Traveler's Medical Kit
Traveler's Health & Emergency Insurance
Staying in Touch
Santo Domingo
History
Historical Timeline
Festivals
Getting Here
By Air
By Car
By Bus
By Cruise Ship
Getting Around
Taxis
Rental Cars
Public Transportation
OMSA Buses & Ejecutivos
Guaguas
Conchos
The Metro
Orientation
Visitor Information
Adventures
Zona Colonial Walking Tour
Parque Colón
Santa Iglesia Catedral de Nuestra Señora Santa María de la Encarnación
Ruinas de la Hospital de San Nicolás de Bari (Ruins of the St. Nicholas of Bari Hospital)
Casa de la Moneda (House of Coins)
Ruinas de San Francisco (The Ruins of the Monastery of St. Francis)
Iglesia Santa Bárbara (St. Barbara Church)
Casa del Cordón (House of the Cord)
las Atarazanas
Plaza España
Alcázar de Colón (The Palace of Columbus)
Casas Reales (Royal Houses)
Panteón Nacional (National Mausoleum)
Palacio de Borgella (Borgella Palace)
Casa del Sacramento (House of the Sacrament)
Fortaleza Ozama y la Torre de Homenaje (Ozama Fortress & the Tower of Homage)
Iglesia Santa Clara (St. Clara Church)
La Iglesia y Convento de los Padres Dominicos (Church & Convent of the Dominican Order)
Regina Angelorum (Queen of the Angels)
Puerta de la Misericordía (Gate of Mercy)
Iglesia del Carmen (The Church of Our Lady of Carmen)
Parque Independencia
Iglesia Las Mercedes (Church of the Favor)
Other Attractions
Parks
Jardín BotánicO Nacional (Botanical Gardens)
Parque Mirador del Este
Cuevas de los Tres Ojos (Cave of Three Eyes)
Faro a Colón (Columbus Lighthouse)
Parque Mirador del Sur
Family Attractions
Acuario Nacional (National Aquarium)
Agua Splash
Participant Sports
Spectator Sports
Museums
Museums Outside the Zona Colonial
Plaza de la Cultura
Cultural Venues Outside the Colonial Zone
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Art)
Art Galleries
Places to Stay
Zona Colonial
Gazcue
Malecón
Places to Eat
Zona Colonial
Gazcue
Malecón
Beyond the Tourist Zone
Nightlife & Entertainment
Shopping
Appendix
Dominican Spanish Glossary
Pronunciation Guide
Useful Words & Phrases
The Basics
Greetings & Responses
Useful Terms
Expressions & Swear Words
Referring to Time & Place
Shopping
Numbers
Days of the Week
Getting Around
Accommodations
Eating & Drinking
Glossary
Preface
When I was age five and living in the Virgin Islands, my mother sent me to the Dominican Republic to spend a summer with my father's side of the family - a boisterous array of grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, and neighbors so close that they seemed like family. As an aunt told me many years later, my mother wanted me to know my people and culture.
More than 35 years later, I still recall that visit with the vivid clarity of the Caribbean's crystalline waters. I remember my grandparents' bohio, a typical rural Dominican home where I lived in the village of Juan López in Moca in the Cibao Valley - and where every other resident, it seemed, shared my otherwise unusual last name (Bencosme). I remember the Spanish-language romantic ballads that wailed incessantly from the neighbors' radios, the acres of plantain and yucca fields that served as my makeshift playgrounds, and the excitement that erupted at the dinner table over who would be among the lucky few to savor the con-con: burned rice scraped from the bottom of the pot, a much-treasured delicacy of Dominican cuisine.
The Dominican Republic of my early childhood was a largely rustic, burgeoning nation emerging from a turbulent political past. Then, the primary mode of transport for a family of four was typically a motoconcho, a motorbike in which the dad might steer with one child nestled in front of him and the mom might hang on behind with another child and a bag of groceries on her lap. And, while this scene remains a common sight in rural areas across the country, today you might see the same family cruising around in a late-model luxury four-wheel drive - a result of one of the fastest growing economies in the Western Hemisphere, including an explosion in tourism, which rocked the country during the late 1990s. (Meanwhile, many of those new tourists now prefer motoconchos to more comfortable rental cars as their own choice for getting around - a fact that arouses sheer bewilderment among many Dominicans.)
In the subsequent years, as I have made frequent pilgrimages to my second home, I have witnessed exponential - and sometimes unsettling - growth on the island (called Hispaniola, which the Dominican Republic shares with the much poorer Republic of Haiti). In Cabarete, a seaside resort along the country's north coast, where I went on holiday with my family in 1991, I could count on one hand the number of hotels that stretched along the lonely highway. Today, there are perhaps two dozen and twice as many restaurants, souvenir shops, tour operators, and other travel-related services and businesses - to the point where you can no longer see the beach from the roadside. Cabarete is now a center for 24-hour fun, where a mostly young, international crowd takes to windsurfing all day and partying all night.
Introduction
History
The Dominican Republic has a long and turbulent history, with enough milestones to make for a crowded holiday calendar and enough firsts
to fill a page in an almanac. (Among them is having the first European settlements in the New World, established by Christopher Columbus and his brother Bartholomew.) The island has played a pivotal role in the development of the Caribbean for more than five centuries, with ample amounts of blood and treasure spilled along the way. The Dominican national character has been shaped by centuries of colonialism, political and economic turmoil, outside invasions, civil wars, and racial divisions. Remarkably, the Dominican Republic has now entered a phase of comparative stability.
Historical Timeline
1000-500 BC. First Amer-Indians arrive in what is now Hispaniola, probably from modern-day Mexico
0 BC. Arawaks begin to arrive via the northern areas of South America
600-800AD. Tainos (an Arawak group) arrive and become dominant group on the island
1000 AD. Caribs begin to arrive from Lesser Antilles
1492 Columbus arrives along northern coast; he names island Hispaniola and establishes settlement at La Navidad, in present-day Haiti
1493-94 Columbus returns to find original settlers dead; founds new settlement, La Isabela, off northern coast
1498 After La Isabela folds, Bartholomew Columbus
(Christopher's brother) founds Santo Domingo
on south coast
1500 Columbus is led back to Spain in shackles
1502 Nicolás de Ovando appointed governor of
colony, founds Puerto Plata on north coast
1503 First city walls rise in Santo Domingo and first
African slaves arrive on island
1504 Azua de Compostela founded
1506 Christopher Columbus dies
1508 Explorer Ponce de León constructs house in
southeastern part of island
1509 Columbus' son Diego named governor of
colony
early 1560s Earthquakes damage Santo Domingo and Santiago
1586 Francis Drake pillages Santo Domingo
1605 Spain torches north coast settlements of Puerto
Plata and Montecristi
1655 English force led by William Penn invades
Santo Domingo
1697 In Treaty of Ryswick, Spain cedes western
one-third of Hispaniola (modern-day Haiti)
to France
1737 Spanish import Canary Islanders to resettle
Puerto Plata
1756 Santa Barbara de Samaná founded, also with
Canary Islanders
1780s 150,000 settlers now populate colony
1791 Slave uprising in French Saint-Domingue (Haiti)
led by Toussaint L'Ouverture
1794 France abolishes slavery in Saint-Domingue
1801 L'Ouverture takes Santo Domingo, mostly
unopposed; frees slaves in Spanish colony
1802 Spain cedes territory to France and France
drives Haitians back into west
1804 L'Ouverture declares Haitian independence
1809 Eastern colony reincorporates with Spain,
reinstates slavery
1822 Haiti again invades Spanish colony, abolishes
slavery, rules for next 22 years
1820s Freed American slaves settle Samaná
1844 Juan Pablo Duarte and Trinitarians revolt
against Haitians, establish independent
Dominican Republic on February 27 (national
Independence Day); first constitution signed
1861 General Pedro Santana invites Spanish to
annex the country
1863 Rebellion against Spain leads to civil war
1865 Independence restored in War of Restoration
1870 U.S. Senate defeats plan of President Grant to
annex the country
1882 General Ulises Heureux overthrows government
1899 General Heureux assassinated
1916-1924 U.S Marines occupy DR
1930 Rafael Trujillo stages coup and wins rigged
election; later renames Santo Domingo Ciudad
Trujillo
1937 Trujillo orders massacre of Haitians on Domin-
ican side of border; an estimated 20,000 are
slaughtered
1961 Trujilo assassinated
1962 Juan Bosch, a leftist, elected president in first
free elections in 38 years
1963 Military coup overthrows Bosch
1965 Bosch supporters launch counter-coup; U.S.
Marines land again
1966/70/74 Joaquín Balaguer elected president in