The Great Glen Way: Fort William to Inverness Two-way trail guide
By Paddy Dillon
()
About this ebook
A guidebook to walking the Great Glen Way, one of Scotland’s Great Trails. The 120km (74 mile) route between Fort William and Inverness is suitable for those new to long-distance walking and can be completed within a week.
The route is described in both directions in 6 stages of between 12 and 31km (8–19 miles), with both low and high-level options for the central stages. Also included is an alternative route along the north shore of Loch Oich via Invergarry.
- Contains step-by-step description of the route alongside 1:100,000 maps
- Includes a separate map booklet containing OS 1:25,000 mapping with the route line
- Refreshment and public transport information provided for each route stage
- Handy trek planner, route summary tables and accommodation listings help you plan your itinerary
- GPX files available to download
Paddy Dillon
Paddy Dillon is a prolific walker and guidebook writer, with over 100 guidebooks to his name and contributions to 40 other titles. He has written for several outdoor magazines and other publications and has appeared on radio and television. Paddy uses a tablet computer to write as he walks. His descriptions are therefore precise, having been written at the very point at which the reader uses them. Paddy is an indefatigable long-distance walker who has walked all of Britain's National Trails and several European trails. He has also walked in Nepal, China, Korea and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the US. www.paddydillon.co.uk
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The Great Glen Way - Paddy Dillon
About the Author
Paddy Dillon is a prolific walker and guidebook writer, with over 90 guidebooks to his name and contributions to 40 other titles. He has written for several outdoor magazines and other publications, and has appeared on radio and television.
Paddy uses a tablet computer to write as he walks. His descriptions are therefore precise, having been written at the very point at which the reader uses them.
Paddy is an indefatigable long-distance walker who has walked all of Britain’s National Trails and several European trails. He has also walked in Nepal, Tibet, Korea and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the US. Paddy is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and is President of the Backpackers Club.
Other Cicerone guides by the author
Glyndwr’s Way
Mountain Walking in Mallorca
The Cleveland Way and the Yorkshire Wolds Way
The GR5 Trail
The GR20 Corsica
The Irish Coast to Coast Walk
The Mountains of Ireland
The National Trails
The North York Moors
The Pennine Way
The Reivers Way
The South West Coast Path
The Teesdale Way (Martin Collins; updated by Paddy Dillon)
The Wales Coast Path
Trekking in Greenland
Trekking in Mallorca
Trekking in the Alps (contributing author)
Walking and Trekking in Iceland
Walking in County Durham
Walking in Menorca
Walking in Sardinia
Walking in the Isles of Scilly
Walking in the North Pennines
Walking on Arran
Walking on Gran Canaria
Walking on Guernsey
Walking on Jersey
Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro
Walking on la Palma
Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura
Walking on Madeira
Walking on Malta
Walking on Tenerife
THE GREAT GLEN WAY
by Paddy Dillon
JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,
OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL
www.cicerone.co.uk
© Paddy Dillon 2016
Second edition 2016 Reprinted 2019 (with updates)
ISBN 9781783623044
First edition 2007
ISBN 978 1 85284 503 2
Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
1:100K route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com.
© Crown copyright 2016 OS PU100012932. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI
The 1:25K map booklet contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright 2015 OS PU100012932.
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
Updates to this Guide
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/801/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal LA9 7RL.
Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk/801/updates.
Front cover: A view of Loch Ness from the rugged garden in front of the Lochside Hostel at Alltsigh (Stage 35, S-N; Stage 2, N-S)
CONTENTS
Map key
Overview map and profile
Route summary table
Trek planner
INTRODUCTION
Planning your trip
Choosing an itinerary
When to walk
Travel to the Great Glen
Travel through the Great Glen
First/Last night: Fort William
Last/First night: Inverness
Baggage transfer
Accommodation
Food and drink
Tourist information centres
Money
What to take
Planning day by day
Using this guide
Additional mapping
Weather forecasts
Waymarking and terrain
Scottish Outdoor Access Code
Rescue services
Great Glen Way Rangers
Phones and wi-fi
All about the Great Glen
Geology
Animals and plants
The Loch Ness Monster
History
GREAT GLEN WAY – SOUTH TO NORTH
Stage 1 Fort William to Gairlochy
Stage 2 Gairlochy to Laggan Locks
Stage 3 Laggan Locks to Fort Augustus
Invergarry Link
Stage 2A Gairlochy to Invergarry
Stage 3A Invergarry to Fort Augustus
Stage 4A Fort Augustus to Invermoriston (high-level)
Stage 4B Fort Augustus to Invermoriston (low-level)
Stage 5A Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit (high-level)
Stage 5B Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit (low-level)
Stage 6 Drumnadrochit to Inverness
GREAT GLEN WAY – NORTH TO SOUTH
Stage 1 Inverness to Drumnadrochit
Stage 2A Drumnadrochit to Invermoriston (high-level)
Stage 2B Drumnadrochit to Invermoriston (low-level)
Stage 3A Invermoriston to Fort Augustus (high-level)
Stage 3B Invermoriston to Fort Augustus (low-level)
Stage 4 Fort Augustus to Laggan Locks
Stage 5 Laggan Locks to Gairlochy
Invergarry Link
Stage 4A Fort Augustus to Invergarry
Stage 5A Invergarry to Gairlochy
Stage 6 Gairlochy to Fort William
Appendix A Useful information
Appendix B Accommodation along the route
Appendix C Timeline history
Appendix D Gaelic–English glossary
A whitewashed pepperpot lighthouse marks where the Caledonian Canal joins Loch Lochy near Gairlochy (Stage 1, S–N; Stage 6 N–S)
The view from Inverness Castle, taking in the Cathedral and River Ness (Stage 6, S–N; Stage 1, N–S)
ROUTE SUMMARY TABLES
Great Glen Way – south to north
Great Glen Way – north to south
The path between the road and the shore of Loch Lochy, near Gairlochy (Stage 2, S–N; Stage 5, N–S)
INTRODUCTION
A view of Loch Lochy near Achnacarry, as a passing shower moves through the glen and leaves a rainbow (Stage 2, S–N; Stage 5, N–S)
The Great Glen is a remarkable geographic feature, running ruler-straight from coast to coast through the Scottish Highlands. Loch Ness, Loch Lochy and little Loch Oich are neatly arranged through the glen, while steep and forested slopes rise towards splendid mountains to north and south. Man has not missed the opportunity to run a road along this low-lying glen, and the Caledonian Canal was cut through the glen, linking its three lochs with the coast. Walkers are now blessed with the provision of a waymarked trail through the glen, running up to 124km (79 miles) from Fort William to Inverness via Invergarry and Fort Augustus. It was officially opened on 30 April 2002 by Prince Andrew, in his role as the Earl of Inverness. As a low-lying trail, most walkers could complete it at most times of the year, and there is always ready access to accommodation, food, drink and transport services.
The Great Glen Way provides an easy and scenic route through the Highlands, where walkers can admire the rugged mountains without having to climb them. Although much of the route can be covered by mountain bike, some paths are only for walkers. Take the time to delve into the long and turbulent history of clan rivalry, strife and warfare. Marvel at the engineering associated with military roads, railway lines and the Caledonian Canal. Keep an eye peeled for a glimpse of the celebrated Loch Ness Monster!
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
The attractive lock-keeper’s cottage at Cullochy Lock near Aberchalder (Stage 3, S–N; Stage 4, N–S))
Choosing an itinerary
The Great Glen Way can easily be walked within a week, and most walkers will aim to complete the route in five or six days. The daily stages are likely to be uneven, and while some will happily walk an occasional long day, others may prefer to split a long stage into two shorter days.
The first thing to decide is whether to walk from Fort William to Inverness (south to north), or Inverness to Fort William (north to south). From a practical point of view, walking from Fort William to Inverness means that you are more likely to have the sun behind you, with the prevailing wind, and hence the weather, at your back. Rainfall also tends to decrease markedly the further you go in this direction. However, the route becomes progressively more difficult, with the higher and more remote stretches coming towards the end.
Those who choose to walk from Inverness to Fort William can cover the hilly parts first, but should bear in mind that if bad weather is coming from the south-west, as it usually does, then they may be walking directly into it. The route does become easier and lower on the way towards Fort William, but the weather may become progressively wetter. Many walkers who have covered the route both ways are convinced that the scenery is better when walking north to south, or at least, they are more aware of it.
This guidebook describes the Great Glen Way in both directions; and given the connection with the West Highland Way at Fort William, there is no reason why both trails shouldn’t be walked together in one long journey between Glasgow and Inverness, or vice versa. Many walkers also find themselves drawn to climb Ben Nevis while based at Fort William.
When to walk
Weather conditions can change rapidly, but the Great Glen Way is essentially a low-level walking route
Most walkers will choose to trek through the Great Glen in the peak summer period. This can be a splendid time, weather-wise, with as much as 18 hours of good daylight. However, it is also a busy time and there can be a lot of pressure on accommodation and services along the way. The advantage is that all services will certainly be in full swing and are there to be used. Those who walk in spring or early summer will be able to enjoy the added colour of wild flowers along the way, while those walking in late summer should be able to catch the purple heather at its blooming best.
Summer is also the peak breeding season for the voracious ‘midge’; a tiny insect (Culicoides impunctatus) that can cause distressingly itchy bites. Midges favour still conditions in the mornings and evenings, and are unlikely to be a problem in the middle of sunny, windy or rainy days. Most walkers move at a pace that outwits the midge, denying it a chance to land on the skin, but at every resting point, they seize the opportunity to feed on your blood. There are a number of repellants on the market, which meet with mixed reviews from users: basically the less skin that is exposed, the less skin will be bitten.
Autumn brings its own delights, as the days are often cool and ideal for walking, and most services are still operating, though under less pressure. As the deciduous trees and bracken-clad slopes turn russet and golden, the scenery can be breathtaking. However, the weather can be wet, windy and misty at times, and some parts of the route may become wet and muddy.
Winter walking is possible, since the low-lying Great Glen is often free of snow even when there are deep drifts elsewhere. A thin covering of snow will not be a problem, but care should always be taken on icy slopes. Deep drifts, though short-lived, can make walking very difficult. Camping might not be the best option in the winter months, unless walkers are particularly hardy and possess the right gear for it. The chance to finish the day by a blazing fire in cosy lodgings has much more appeal, but bear in mind that not all the accommodation will be open throughout the winter months. Also note that midwinter daylight hours are very short: maybe as little as six hours!
Travel to the Great Glen
See Appendix A for the contact details of transport operators and information services.
Air
The nearest airport to the Great Glen is Inverness Airport (01667 464000, www.invernessairport.co.uk). There are direct flights to Inverness from major British airports such as London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Luton, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester, Belfast and a few small Scottish airports. Most flights are operated by Flybe, www.flybe.com, and Easyjet, www.easyjet.com. Direct flights to Inverness are also available from Amsterdam with KLM, www.klm.com. Stagecoach Jet Bus and local taxis operate from the airport into the centre of Inverness, which is very handy for the northern terminus of the Great Glen Way, or