The Men's Attire Answer Book
()
About this ebook
This is a how-to book on selecting, buying, and using clothes and accessories to favorably impress others and incline them to do what you want them to in order to advance your career and achieve your professional and private life goals.
Related to The Men's Attire Answer Book
Related ebooks
Men's Style Guide - Classique Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsGent Next Door: Gent Next Door, #1 Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Clothing Man Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Gentleman's Guide to Cool: Clothing, Grooming, Etiquette Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsStyle Bible: What to Wear to Work Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Perfectly Dressed Gentleman Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsStyle Up Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTen Garments Every Man Should Own: A Practical Guide to Building a Permanent Wardrobe Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Gentleman’s Style Guide: Land the Job. Get the Girl. Feel Great. Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsFuck Yeah Menswear: Bespoke Knowledge for the Crispy Gentleman Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5A Gentleman Gets Dressed Up Revised and Expanded: What to Wear, When to Wear It, How to Wear It Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Suit Book Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Masculine Figures: Fashioning Men and the Novel in Nineteenth-Century Spain Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsABC of Men's Fashion Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5All About Wearing High Heels: (For Girls/Women) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWork Clothes: The Go to Guide for Business Attire, Work Outfits and More Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Art of Being a Gentleman Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Business of Bespoke Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsStyling Masculinity: Gender, Class, and Inequality in the Men's Grooming Industry Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Perfect Fit In Men's Tailoring: Adjust your patterns easily Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Power of Personal Style Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSports in Africa, Past and Present Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Art of Tailoring: Step by step skills that can lead to a Career Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Very Best of Vivienne Westwood Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Idle Man Presents: The Idle Guide To Grooming Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTeach Yourself Stitch Craft and Dressmaking: Taking Measurements: Volume II Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5A Woman's Guide to Bras: The Complete Book On Plus Size Bras, Push Up Bras, Nursing Bras and More Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBespoke Men's Shoes Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Motivational For You
Law of Connection: Lesson 10 from The 21 Irrefutable Laws of Leadership Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People: The Infographics Edition Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Grit: The Power of Passion and Perseverance Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Think and Grow Rich (Illustrated Edition): With linked Table of Contents Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The 21 Irrefutable Laws of Leadership: Follow Them and People Will Follow You Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Change Your Paradigm, Change Your Life Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Crucial Conversations: Tools for Talking When Stakes are High, Third Edition Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Girl, Stop Apologizing: A Shame-Free Plan for Embracing and Achieving Your Goals Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5The Richest Man in Babylon: The Success Secrets of the Ancients Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Emotional Intelligence 2.0 Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The 21 Irrefutable Laws of Leadership Workbook: Revised and Updated Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Stop Doing That Sh*t: End Self-Sabotage and Demand Your Life Back Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Eat That Frog!: 21 Great Ways to Stop Procrastinating and Get More Done in Less Time Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Power of Moments: Why Certain Experiences Have Extraordinary Impact Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Game of Life And How To Play It Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Your Next Five Moves: Master the Art of Business Strategy Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Intelligent Investor, Rev. Ed: The Definitive Book on Value Investing Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Carol Dweck's Mindset The New Psychology of Success: Summary and Analysis Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Banish Your Inner Critic: Silence the Voice of Self-Doubt to Unleash Your Creativity and Do Your Best Work Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Building a Second Brain: A Proven Method to Organize Your Digital Life and Unlock Your Creative Potential Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5As a Man Thinketh: The Complete Original Edition and Master of Destiny: A GPS Guide to Life Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Summary of The Laws of Human Nature: by Robert Greene - A Comprehensive Summary Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Set for Life: An All-Out Approach to Early Financial Freedom Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The 12 Week Year (Review and Analysis of Moran and Lennington's Book) Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Your Best Year Ever: A 5-Step Plan for Achieving Your Most Important Goals Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Reviews for The Men's Attire Answer Book
0 ratings0 reviews
Book preview
The Men's Attire Answer Book - James F. Brown
The Men's Attire Answer Book©
─ Using Clothes To Achieve Your Goals
by
James F. Brown
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher.
Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this book was correct at press time, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.
––––––––
Published by Pogonip Press
POB 2491
Manhattan Beach, CA 90267-2491
––––––––
©Copyright 2018 by James F. Brown All rights reserved.
––––––––
ebook ISBN-13: 978-0-9860116-0-3
ebook ISBN-10: 0-9860116-0-6
pbook ISBN-13: 978-0-9860116-1-0
pbook ISBN-10: 0-9860116-1-4
––––––––
Dewey Decimal Classification: 646.3
Library of Congress Classification: TT618
Library of Congress Control Number: 2018946790
––––––––
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FOREWORD
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INTRODUCTION
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
SECTION ONE — About Clothes
A SHORT HISTORY OF CLOTHING
THE BUSINESS OF CLOTHING
Design
Manufacturing
Shipping & Distribution
Retail Sales
Factory Outlet Malls
Resellers & Discounters
ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, OR MINERAL?
POLY & POLY-RAY? NO WAY!
HOW SUITS ARE MADE
Off The Rack Suits
Made To Measure (Semi-Custom) Suits
Bespoke (Full-Custom) Suits
THE THREE BASIC SUIT STYLES
The American Suit
The British Suit
The Italian Suit
SPORT COATS & BLAZERS
THE VERSATILE CAMELHAIR SPORT COAT
FORMAL ATTIRE
White Tie
Black Tie
DRESS PANTS
DRESS SHIRTS
TIES
Tie Fabrics
How To Wear Ties
The Big Tie No-No
Power Ties, Colors, & Patterns
Bow Ties
Shopping For Ties
Tie Care & Storage
POCKET SQUARES
BELTS
BRACES (SUSPENDERS)
SHOES
Parts Of A Shoe
Shoe Construction & Quality
How To Be A Smart Shoe Shopper
Caring For & Maintaining Shoes
SOCKS
HATS & CAPS
SWEATERS
Sweater Fabrics
Sweater Care & Cleaning
How To Hand Wash Sweaters & Other Delicates
UNDERWEAR
INSULATED CLOTHING — DOWN VERSUS SYNTHETICS
SECTION TWO — Shopping For Clothes
SHOPPING VERSUS BUYING
TRYING ON CLOTHES FOR FIT
USE THE FIVE P's
AS YOUR SHOPPING STRATEGY
Before Buying
After Buying
I HAVE A LITTLE LIST
COMPARISION SHOPPING — IN-PERSON & VIRTUAL
BOGO IS A NO GO!
WHAT CLOTHES LABELS CAN TELL YOU
INSPECTING YOUR POTENTIAL PURCHASE
WALK INTO A STORE & DO THIS FIRST
BARGAINING BASICS
BEWARE THE SCHLOCK SHOPS
DON'T GO FOR USED CLOTHES
CLOTHES FOR BIG & SMALL MEN
ROOM FOR GROWTH
SIZE MATTERS
Pants Sizes
Shirt Sizes
Suit & Sport Coat Sizes
ATTIRE SHOPPING ABROAD
COUNTERFEITS ARE BAD KARMA
FTC REGISTERED IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS
SHOPPING STRATEGIES FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON
SUMMER SALES CAN MEAN BIG SAVINGS
SMART SHOPPING FOR SUMMERTIME LEISUREWEAR
KNOW YOUR NUMBERS
MAKE FRIENDS WITH SALES STAFF
TRUE COLORS
USING A SPREADSHEET TO TRACK YOUR PURCHASES
SECTION THREE — Wearing & Using Clothes As Tools
FASHION VERSUS STYLE — THE BIG DIFFERENCES
Wearing Logos Is A No Go!
WHY GUYS THINK DRESSING UP IS AGONY
ADJUSTING YOUR SELF IMAGE
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Tattoos & Piercings
The Man Bun & Weird Hair
CHOOSING WHAT TO WEAR
ARTFUL ATTIRE ACCESSORIZING
AVOIDING CASUAL FRIDAY CATASTROPHES
BE A PEOPLE WATCHER!
BE A CLOTHING CHAMELEON!
A POP OF COLOR
COORDINATING TEXTURES
SPORT COAT & SWEATER SYNERGIES
FIT IS FOREMOST
Athletic Fit & Portly Fit
GET YOUR OWN PERSONAL TAILOR & GIVE HIM (OR HER) ALL YOUR BUSINESS
FORCEFUL OR FRIENDLY?
MIRRORING CLIENT ATTIRE
STANDING OUT FOR PUBLIC SPEAKING
THE LIGHT TOUCH
THE WINTER WET SEASON
SECTION FOUR — Caring For Clothes
CARING, NOT JUST WEARING
AT THE CLEANERS
DOING YOUR OWN LAUNDRY
HONEY, I SHRUNK THE CLOTHES!
SMART CLOTHES STORAGE
TAKING STOCK OF WHAT YOU'VE GOT
A CLOTHING BUDGET PLAN
SECTION FIVE — Travel & Other Tips
AVERTING ATTIRE DISASTERS
THE BIGGEST BOO-BOOS MADE BY MEN
HOW WOMEN CAN HELP THEIR MEN CLOTHES SHOP
COMMON SENSE ABOUT SCENTS
WHY MEN'S MAGAZINES GIVE BAD ADVICE
BUSINESS ETIQUETTE BASICS
BUILD PERSONAL RELATIONSHIPS FIRST
MAINTAINING A FARLEY FILE
BUSINESS TRAVEL TIPS
LUGGAGE
SAVILE ROW & JERMYN STREET
BIBLIOGRAPHY & RESOURCES
THANK YOU!
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
FOREWORD
I've known Jim Brown for over fifteen years and he is not only most incredibly knowledgeable about all aspects of men’s clothing but he's a consummate shopper. Jim has honed his education of the details of men's clothes — style, construction, history and what is appropriate to the point that he is constantly asked to speak to service clubs about men's fashion. But he's gone beyond an intensive knowledge of style to perfect his techniques for shopping. Skills of which all men should be more aware.
His book is complete in all aspects of understanding color, fit, your image, clothing care, how to shop and recognize value, business travel, building personal relationships, navigating the sales, and even working with sales associates to your adventage. Plus great little gems of insights the average guy would never think of but is essential knowledge!
It's knowledge that every man needs to know and thank goodness we have Jim here willing to share.
Andy Gilchrist
Author of The Encyclopedia Of Men's Clothes
www.AskAndyAboutClothes.com
––––––––
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
No man is an island. Neither is a writer. It would have been impossible for me to create this book without the assistance of the following people. My thanks and gratitude to Rick Nyburg for the great cover photos; Sheryl Roush for her marketing and design tips; David Portnoy for his support and mentoring; Andy Gilchrist for his advice, mentoring, and educational website and materials; Mike Hurst for his comments and advice; Craig Duswalt for his Rock Star clothing stories; Joshua Schulman for his coaching and friendship; Susie Kim for her great tailoring and teaching me about tailoring; Toastmasters for helping me develop my presentation and training skills; the many salespeople who gave me such helpful advice on shopping for clothes; and Jack Nichols for all his advice, support, mentoring, and friendship.
Last, but certainly not least, a big shout-out and thank you to John T. Molloy for all his attire-related social research and books, which started the professional attire movement back in the Seventies.
INTRODUCTION
OK, I admit it! Like most guys, I'm a slob at heart. Living near the beach in Southern California, I'm most comfortable in a T-shirt, hiking shorts, sneakers, and white crew socks. When it's cool, I add a sweatshirt or long sleeve flannel shirt to my basic beach attire. Maybe even a pair of long jeans. That's my outfit when I'm on my own time.
But what about when I'm not on my own time? That's a different story. When I'm working, meeting others in a professional setting, and teaching or presenting, I've got to look the part. Being clean and well-groomed is essential, but dressing appropriately is critical. Why? Because people will judge you based on what they see or know about you. That's called making a good first impression. But what if it's a bad first impression? Wow! That's really difficult to overcome. Mental inertia is involved here. Once people make a decision and reach a conclusion, they tend to stick to it... even when new evidence or experience contradicts that conclusion.
There's also social conservatism to consider. If you're dressed down
inappropriate to the occasion — whatever that is — people can become very offended. And that's not good when your goal is to persuade others to do what you want them to.
Another factor is meeting peoples' expectations of you. Clothing is more than just personal shelter from the elements; it's shorthand for advertising your status and occupation. An investment banker in a three-piece pinstripe suit with a power tie makes an entirely different impression than the same person in a tank top, cutoffs, and sandals. Clothing also denotes power in society. A uniformed police officer has tremendous power in certain circumstances. He can stop people, direct them where to go, and tell them what to do. And they will (generally) obey. That same officer out of uniform (and without a badge) would have a problem ordering people around.
So, using clothes as tools to achieve your goals is vital to success in life. It's not a new concept. John T. Molloy's classic how-to books, Dress for Success and The New Dress for Success, were best sellers when they were published. And they are still excellent references for professional men. Unfortunately, they're out of print, although still available from used book sources, and highly recommended.
In short, clothes are tools to manipulate others into doing what you want them to. People will react to you depending on your attire. Even more important — and a much more subtle psychological effect — is how you will act and feel about yourself depending on how you're dressed. I'm a different person in beach attire than when I'm in a pinstripe suit, power tie, and wingtip dress shoes. I think differently. I act differently. And I respond differently.
I invite you to read, heed, and use the information in this book to achieve your own personal goals, whatever they may be. Clothes are tools; be a consummate, accomplished, and effective tool user.
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
The Men's Attire Answer Book has its origins in my weekly newspaper column, Looking Good for Lots Less. Each column covered a specific area of men's attire. I've collected those columns, updated the information in them, and grouped them into logical sections:
SECTION ONE — About Clothes
SECTION TWO — Shopping For Clothes
SECTION THREE — Wearing & Using Clothes As Tools
SECTION FOUR — Caring For Clothes
SECTION FIVE — Travel & Other Tips
BIBLIOGRAPHY & RESOURCES
Each section contains short chapters about particular items of attire, as well as helpful tips and techniques. Before you go clothes shopping, take a few minutes to read and review the chapters that apply to the items you'll be looking to buy. But don't ever feel pressured to buy something on any shopping expedition. Take your time and make your purchases carefully and deliberately. My advice is to read the chapter USE THE FIVE P's
AS YOUR SHOPPING STRATEGY. Following those steps will save you money and ensure that your purchases are deliberate, rational, and free of emotional entanglement.
You may notice some duplication and repetition of information in this book. There are two good reasons for this. First, it's info that's important and that I'd like you to pay special attention to. Second, these sections, chapters, and subchapters are designed for quick reading of key points to remember when you go shopping for specific items in order to save money, buy quality, and get exactly what you need.
As you gain proficiency, experience, and expertise in buying clothes and using them as tools to achieve your goals, you'll find that it's exciting, exhilarating, and tons of fun. The knowledge you gain from this book, the other resources listed at the back, and your own personal efforts will serve you well in your professional and personal life. Good hunting, good shopping, and good luck!
James F. Brown
Manhattan Beach, California
June 2018
SECTION ONE — About Clothes
A SHORT HISTORY OF CLOTHING
Humans have been wearing clothes for a long time. But our very earliest ancestors did not. They were running around Africa in their birthday suits. No footwear, either. So, what was the impetus that drove them to start wearing clothes? Contrary to what we in colder climates might believe, it wasn't about staying warm. That wasn't a big problem in tropical Africa.
Instead, it was about protecting sensitive body areas from harm. Think about it. Animals that walk on four legs (quadrupeds) have their private parts
at the rear and underneath, pretty much tucked away and fairly safe. When we became upright bipeds and started walking on two legs, those areas were now front and center, and in harm's way. Africa is home to many hazards such as high UV sunlight, stinging insects, and plants with sharp thorns and toxic leaves. Our ancestors had considerable motivation to solve these problems.
Hominids were already scavenging for meat and using stone tools to cut through skin to get to meat. It would have been a small step to cut out animal skins and wrap them around our lower torsos. It was a simple solution that worked well.
Today, all humans wear some type of clothing. Some because they live in colder climates. But even in tropical areas, and in cultures where's there's no taboo against nudity, breechclouts are worn. Clothing is personal shelter against the elements that we carry around with us.
(Besides humans, there is only one other species that wears clothes. Can you guess what it is? Hint: it's not our closest relatives — chimps, bonobos, gorillas, and orangutans. It's lowly, humble hermit crabs! They're wearing empty conch shells to protect them from being the main course at someone else's dinner. As they grow, they must find bigger shells to fit into; competition for shells is fierce. It's a tough life for hermit crabs!)
As humans left Africa for colder parts of the globe, clothing's role expanded to include protection against freezing cold and killing heat. Eskimos and Arabs developed clothes that shielded them from cold and heat in their respective environments.
Something else happened to clothing as human cultures grew and became more complex than the small groups of hunter-gatherers we once were. Items of attire became indicators of status, gender, and occupation. Kings and queens wore crowns and ermine robes; serfs and peasants wore burlap and other rough garments. Today, what someone wears tells others who they are, what they are, and where they are on the social ladder. People react to nuns' habits, priests' robes, police and military uniforms, and three-piece pinstripe suits in ways that give the wearers of such clothing great power over others in certain circumstances.
What does all this mean to us today? It means that we can carefully choose specific attire to influence others and advance our own careers and personal agendas. The sections and chapters that follow provide guidelines on just how to achieve goals that you've set for yourself at work and in life.
THE BUSINESS OF CLOTHING
Clothing is an enormous business that's global in scope and generates billions in revenues for design houses, manufacturers, distributors, and retailers. Although, like any commercial enterprise, it has ups and downs, attire will always be an inexhaustible market because everybody needs clothing. Clothes are consumables; they wear out and must be replaced. Plus, as kids grow and adults enlarge or shrink, they must purchase new sizes. Knowing a bit about the business of clothing confers power and can help consumers buy smart, buy correctly, and buy cheap. In this chapter and others, we'll explore how this vital global business operates.
Design
The first step in the clothing business is the design phase. Before any item of attire is made, it's necessary to have a blueprint, a road map, a concept of what that item is and how it will be made. A clothing designer initially sketches out his or her idea on paper. It can be well developed and standardized, with a long history such as T-shirts, jeans, socks, underwear, and outerwear. It can be traditional such as suits, sport coats, and dress pants and shirts. Or it can be something fresh for a new fashion season such as skirts, blouses, dresses, and accessories.
After the sketch, a pattern is developed for cutting fabric and assembling the pieces into the item of clothing. Fabric content, weave, weight, colors, and patterns are decided. Clothing sizes are also an important factor in pattern making. Prototypes are made and finetuned for sizing, durability, and fit.
All these hand-made prototypes are gathered together by the design house and modeled in runway shows and buyer fairs. These venues take place nine months or more prior to when the clothes will be offered to the public. Buyers from major department stores, boutiques, specialty shops, and other retailers place orders for the clothes they select. Large department stores and clothing chains may also place orders for their house labels, acting as their own design house. These orders state how many items of attire will be purchased, what colors, styles, how many of each size will be delivered to the