Theory of Silk Weaving: A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics
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Theory of Silk Weaving - Arnold Wolfensberger
Arnold Wolfensberger
Theory of Silk Weaving
A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics
Published by Good Press, 2022
goodpress@okpublishing.info
EAN 4057664570307
Table of Contents
PREFACE
THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
DRAWING-IN
STRAIGHT DRAWS
SKIP DRAWS
POINT DRAWS
SECTION DRAWS
THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION
THE TAFFETA WEAVE
GROS DE TOURS WEAVES
SERGE or TWILL WEAVES
FILLING EFFECTS
WARP EFFECTS
EVENSIDED TWILLS
POINTED TWILLS
SATIN WEAVES
Regular Satins
IRREGULAR SATINS
DERIVATIVE WEAVES
CANNELE and REPP WEAVES
DOUBLE FACED FABRICS
FILLING EFFECTS
PEKINS
BAYADÈRES
CHECKS AND PLAIDS
DECOMPOSITION
1. THE WEAVE
2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC
3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE
4. REED CALCULATION
5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED
6. WARPING TICKET
7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT
8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING
9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING
10. FINISHING
11. CALCULATION OF COST
DISPOSITION 1
DISPOSITION 2
DISPOSITION 3
DISPOSITION 4
DISPOSITION 5
DISPOSITION 6
JACQUARD WEAVES
BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES
MANUFACTURING COSTS
CALCULATIONS
CALCULATION BLANK
INDEX
OTHER BOOKS Published by CLIFFORD & LAWTON
THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
SERIVALOR or the True Value of Raw Silk
By ADOLF ROSENZWEIG,
DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS
COLOR VALUE
By C.R. CLIFFORD.
PERIOD FURNISHINGS
By C.R. CLIFFORD.
PREFACE
Table of Contents
The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and natural resources, has brought it.
That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we are also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of time that the American industry has required for its development, as compared to the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great European silk centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor discouraging.
While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch as out conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we may still profitably study their methods in order to overcome our deficiencies.
The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful, trained help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this factor, make great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and maintain the high standard of their industry.
For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where young men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves for a career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at the same time furthering those of their chosen profession.
This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the standard of the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would naturally take more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere mechanical appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.
Very little has been done in his country for technical education as far as the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch, that prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise on the theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.
It is divided into three principal parts:
1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness.
2nd. The weaves and their application.
3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.
To the foregoing there have