Nathalie Dupree's Favorite Stories and Recipes
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About this ebook
Personal stories and recipes reveal the culinary journey of Nathalie Dupree, deemed the "Queen of Southern Cuisine” (Southern Living, 12/20/2018).
Nathalie Dupree is a storyteller, and in celebration of her 80th birthday in December 2019, she shares her favorite culinary stories, which trace her journey from a budding cook for her college friends, through her years as a restaurant cook and cooking instructor. Her activist spirit, humor, feisty personality, and authoritative knowledge of cooking make this a must-have cookbook for everyone who has watched her on TV, read her articles in magazines and newspapers, or invoked her name in a conversation about Southern food.
Nathalie Dupree is the best-selling author of 14 cookbooks, and host of more than 300 national and international cooking shows. She has been the president of the Atlanta chapter of the International Women's Forum, founder and past president of IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals), founder and board member of Southern Foodways, and founder and co-president of two chapters of Les Dames d’Escoffier by whom she was awarded the honor of “Grande Dame. She was the founding president of the Charleston Wine and Food Festival. She was named the 2013 Woman of the Year from the French Master Chefs of America, and received Slow Food Charleston’s 2016 Snail Award. Her books New Southern Cooking and Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking are on the 2017 Southern Living 100 best cookbooks of all time list. She lives in Charleston.
Cynthia Stevens Graubart, co-author of James Beard Award-winning Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking and Southern Biscuits with Nathalie Dupree, and author of The One-Armed Cook, called the culinary version of What to Expect When You’re Expecting. She produced Nathalie Dupree’s New Southern Cooking, the first nationally distributed television series from Georgia Public Television, among many other television series during her television career. She lives in Atlanta, Georgia.
Nathalie Dupree
Nathalie Dupree is the author of fourteen cookbooks. She is best known for her approachability and her understanding of Southern cooking, having started the New Southern Cooking movement now found in many restaurants throughout the United States, and co-authoring Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking. Nathalie, as she is known to her fans, has won wide recognition for her work, including four James Beard Awards and numerous others. She was also founding Chairman of the Charleston Wine and Food Festival, a founding member of many culinary organizations including the prestigious Southern Foodways and the International Association of Culinary Professionals. She is married to author Jack Bass and lives in Charleston, SC. She travels extensively, lecturing and teaching.
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Reviews for Nathalie Dupree's Favorite Stories and Recipes
3 ratings1 review
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5I will always try recipes in this book every time I see the mashed potatoes on the cover!!
Book preview
Nathalie Dupree's Favorite Stories and Recipes - Nathalie Dupree
Nathalie Dupree’s
Favorite Stories & Recipes
Nathalie Dupree with Cynthia Graubart
Digital Edition 1.0
Stories © 2019 Nathalie Dupree
Recipes © 2019 Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart
Photographs © 2019 Hélène Dujardin Photography
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced by any means whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except brief portions quoted for purpose of review.
Published by
Gibbs Smith
P.O. Box 667
Layton, Utah 84041
1.800.835.4993 orders
www.gibbs-smith.com
Library of Congress Control Number: 2019936914
ISBN 13: 9781423652519 (ebook)
To Cynthia, and to all the chickens who have made me what I am today.
Contents
Introduction
The Skinnies and the Roundies
Breakfast, Brunch, & Lunch
Granny Kate's Biscuits
Two-Ingredient Cream Biscuits
Basic Southern Sturdy Biscuits
Breakfast Shrimp & Grits
Classic Omelet
God Bless the Egg Man
Omelet Soufflé
Cheese Soufflé
Flavored Milk
A Special Family Breakfast
Caramelized Onions
Golden Vidalia Onion Tart with Olives & Rosemary
Caramelized Onion Soup
Food for Funerals
Chilled Melon Soup
Gazpacho
Love Bloomed
Golden Gazpacho with Chilis & Shrimp
Sausage & Apples
Sausage & Apple Soup
Sausage & Apple Quiche
Sausage & Apple Overnight Casserole
Peanut Butter Sandwich To Go
Main Courses
Home-Cooked Meals
Garlic-Stuffed Roast Chicken
Grilled Roman-Style Lemon Chicken
Fennel-Olive Relish
Heroine's Feast
Turkey with Gravy
Traditional Turkey Gravy
Giving Thanks
Amber Turkey Stock
Cynthia’s Grilled Beef Tenderloin
Beef Tenderloin Stuffed with Mushroom & Spinach Duxelles
Romesco Sauce
Grandmother’s Pot Roast
Lemon-Lime Pot Roast with Tomatoes & Garlic
Mussel Memory
Southern Bouillabaisse
First Fish
Whole Roasted Snapper
Aïoli
Virginia Willis’s Peanut Romesco Sauce
Way to a Man’s Heart
Dixie Cassoulet
Pat Conroy’s Spinach Tortellini Salad
Roman Banquet
Lemon Fettuccine
Side Dishes
Salad of Baby Greens
Basic Vinaigrette
Watermelon and Cantaloupe Salad
Carolina Gold Rice & Fruit Salad with Ginger Dressing
Ginger Dressing
Asparagus Salad
Alma’s New Potatoes with Mustard Seed
Anna’s Potato Cake
Whipped, Mashed, or Riced Potatoes
Long-Cooked Turnip Greens & Pot Likker
Lacy Corn Fritters
Turnips & Cream au Gratin
Stuffed Squash & Zucchini Boats
Ratatouille Tian
Southern Ratatouille
Roasted Root Vegetables
Leftovers
Celery & Carrots with Ginger Sauce
Pan-Charred Green Beans with Pecans
Social Circle Macaroni Pie
Desserts
Lazy Girl Peach Batter Cobbler
Free-Form Pear Tart
Lemon & Berry Tart
Lemon Curd
Very Versatile Cream Cheese Dough
Rose’s Best All-American Apple Pie
Apple Roses
Pecan Tassies
Lemon Tassies
Chocolate Snowball
Traditional Simple Meringues
Swiss Meringues
Meringues Remind Me of Paris
Angelina’s Mont Blanc
Classic Caramel Cake
Caramel Icing
Oranges in Caramel
Caramel Sauce
Candied Citrus Rind
Nathalie’s Cream Puffs
Diplomat Cream
Chocolate Sauce
Croquembouche
Spun Caramel Cage
Acknowledgments
Introduction
These are the recipes I long for, dream about, and cook regularly. Most are from ingredients I keep on hand, but some require thinking ahead and planning. Some serve a crowd and may seem pricey until the price is divided among the number of people served.
I purchase beef tenderloin when it is on sale, for instance, as I know a time will come when I will need it: an engagement party, like the one for Cynthia and Cliff so many years ago; a last-minute occasion when someone comes to this tourist-luring city of Charleston and gives us a call. Having quality ingredients on hand enables me to cook as well from the freezer— from local frozen-by-me shrimp and grits to beef tenderloin, or even sausage with the ever-present apples my husband insists on having at hand. Sides can appear frequently in season, both for just the two of us or for a crowd, as they are usually so uncomplicated they can be multiplied or divided. In a conscientious Southern household, leftovers are never for tossing but for keeping refrigerated or frozen for inclusion in desperation moments.
With an incorrigible sweet tooth, I dream of the desserts in this collection, each appearing in my mind’s eye and my taste memories. My cravings vacillate from slide-down-the-throat desserts to crispy, crunchy meringues or tender cake. Growing up, we ate a lot of Jell-O and other packaged puddings, with anything else being a treat causing proportional excitement.
I’ve never considered myself a baker, although I have frequently baked. I am fond of certain exercises, like making pie and puff pastry, because I like the process as much as the flavor. There is something about rolling out dough that makes me happy. In fact, if I don’t like the process, I don’t make the dessert. So, too, I don’t love doing froufrou, so you won’t find much of that here. Rather, these desserts are straightforward sweets that make gluttons like me—and perhaps some of you—happy.
While the recipes are like friends, comforting and delighting me, I also refer to the richest part of my life—family and friends, who bring the most joy. The stories of food and relationships parallel the recipes. Some are stories I’ve told while teaching cooking classes. Others I wrote for either my column Matters of Taste
in the Atlanta Journal Constitution or the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. A fair number were assembled into my book Nathalie Dupree’s Matter of Taste, which had a parallel TV show for the recipes but not for the stories, so they deserve a repeat view. Some appeared in periodicals such as Brown’s Guide to Georgia, Atlanta Magazine, and the Charleston Post and Courier. Others are written just for this book.
I hope the stories help you to see how rich my life has been in travel, friendship, and love and leave you appreciating the good in your life. I assure you the little girl who ran away from home has found herself in a happy place, cooking good food for herself and her dear husband, Jack Bass, who will eat anything she cooks. He has come from a palate of about 3 out of 10 to a robust 8 in the twenty-five years we have been married. Both the longevity and laughter of the marriage and the growth of his palate are miracles for us both. Between us, we have written nine books in those years, this one being the ninth of our combined total of twenty-three.
Cynthia Stevens Graubart has been a dear friend since I found her when I was looking for a producer for my first television series, New Southern Cooking. She is in many ways the complete opposite of me, with the detailed mind of a producer and the ability to see the parts of the whole as well as the whole itself. It was a natural thing to introduce her to Cliff Graubart, who was the most eligible bachelor I knew. It was high time for him to get married and he couldn’t have done better than Cynthia. I always say I’m responsible for their children, as they wouldn’t have had them without me fixing Cynthia and Cliff up. There is some dispute about that. Cynthia has gone on to write and do television herself, and most likely will exceed me in the number of books she writes. She has all my secrets and those of numerous other writers, and keeps them well.
Enjoy these recipes and look for more stories and recipes to come. At eighty years old, I have more to tell, and more friends to include another time.
This story was originally published in Nathalie Dupree’s Matters of Taste, © 1990 by Nathalie Dupree, published by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. It may have been modified for this book.
The Skinnies and the Roundies
Just before my twentieth high school reunion, it seemed to me the world was divided into two types of people — the skinnies and the roundies. As I talked to my high school friends on the phone or in person, I tried to determine: Were they more like a Modigliani or a Rubens? Did they jog, do aerobics, eat more than one meal a day? More importantly, what size were they? My mother always said comparisons were odious, but I found myself mentally weighing myself (literally) against my peers.
The last time I visited an old high school skinny friend (remembering her mother was a darn good cook), I nearly starved to death. Her mother is beautiful at 70, and so is my friend the skinny. She runs three miles a day, four days a week, and she was pointedly polite about my protruding stomach (although I thought I could hear her thinking tsk, tsk
as she glanced at it). She gets a high from running. I get a high from chopping. One day I was ravenous at noon. She was surprised, saying, But I thought you ate breakfast!
I wondered, What has breakfast got to do with lunch?
Thinking of a quote attributed to Catherine Deneuve, A woman reaches an age when she must sacrifice the body for the face,
I wondered if I had made the wrong choice—my face. A month away from the reunion I decided I needed to reverse my choice and lose week weight. I was afraid all the boys in my class would remember me as a skinny, having weighed 110 pounds until just a few years ago. First I tried the sensible things. A bowl of cereal with skim milk or a boiled egg for breakfast. Low-calorie cottage cheese with slices of tomato for lunch. Poached chicken with steamed broccoli and rice or a baked potato for dinner. I sprinkled everything with herbs. Occasional fruit was my only dessert or snack. I hated it. I thought about the meals I was missing. I love food. I want to eat five times a day, if possible, small meals. I love slicing and chopping and cooking for others. I love the smells of the kitchen. I like breakfast in bed. I crave fresh food. I like to feed myself. Finally I found some recipes that satisfied my cravings and helped me lose a few pounds.
A long distance beau called, and I told him of my vows. I,
I proudly announced, hoping the declaration would spur me on as a challenge, will be ten pounds lighter when I see you again.
Instead of a crow of pleasure, I received a groan. Oh, no,
he said, I like you Romanesque!
With that, I threw my diet out the window. By the time of the reunion, I fit into my favorite roundies dress. I felt very comfortable in it. I got there early, quivering with anticipation at seeing people I hadn’t seen for years. Like Rip Van Winkle, the years fell away. My high school sweetheart walked in the door. He’d been the high school football captain, and I suppose if you saw him today, you’d think he looked like Kenny Rogers and that he might be considered a bit beefy—a roundy, even. I didn’t notice. In fact, I didn’t notice anyone’s looks in particular, can’t recall concentrating on their dresses or their shapes. All the women were beautiful, all the men handsome—just as I’d remembered them to be. The joy of being together overcame our mortality. We danced and laughed, and cried. I did notice something about the skinnies that night—in the dark you can’t tell they have lines.
Nathalie, far left, from high school yearbook.
Breakfast, Brunch, & Lunch
Mealtimes and what is served when are blurring together until most anything goes, including serving breakfast for dinner. These are my sort of pantry meals—meals I always keep the ingredients for and things I can always count on to please guests. I’ve gained beaux from fixing omelet soufflés after the movies and have had guests swoon with pleasure when I served them for a party or crowd.
Sausage and apples has been my standby meal since the 1970s; my husband, Jack, loves it. I serve some variation of it every week. That’s one nice thing about these particular recipes: they accommodate additions and substitutions, making for change-up meals. If there are recipes I cannot do without in my repertoire after all my years cooking for my family and guests, these are they.
It was hard to decide where to put shrimp and grits, because it is so easily an evening meal. But it is securely in breakfasts, as that is where it started.
Granny Kate's Biscuits
It was a hot night, and the sun was setting later and later each day. Worrying about her grandmother, the small child couldn’t sleep. She was staring at the ceiling when her mother came to tuck her in. Since she normally fell to sleep when her head hit the pillow, her mother asked if anything was wrong. No,
Jamie replied. Are you sure?
her mother asked again. Well,
the tot replied, knowing somehow she wasn’t concerned about her grandmother’s mortality as much as her own self-interest, I was just wondering — who’s going to make biscuits for us when Grannie Kate dies?
At a young age, the child had hit upon something most of us only learn late in life. There are certain foods that will linger in our memories and hearts long after the people who made them are gone. And it’s important to learn from them how to make their treasures so they will live on.
Grannie Kate, still in robust good health, is the best biscuit maker I know. Her biscuits are tender, light, a bit smaller than the average, just large enough to hold sautéed pork tenderloin or a sausage without crumbling until the very end, when the juices break it up. Whenever Kate Almand is around, everyone else is tempted to take a backseat and let her make the biscuits. Although I frequently tell people she was born with a biscuit bowl in her hands, she’s only been making them since she was a small child herself. One of thirteen children, she was told by her dad one day, when her mom was gone, to make the biscuits. She