My Journeys: Experiences on the Caminos of Santiago de Compostela and the Chicamocha Canyon

By Vicente Cabán

There are many paths that make up "The Camino de Santiago de Compostela". Each of them has its own charm and peculiarity. They also offer the pilgrim freedom, space, beauty, knowledge, adventure, and the opportunity to find oneself. Perhaps that is why the Camino traps us and we have to repeat it over and over again. The Chicamocha Canyon, like

• Language: English
• Publisher: ibukku, LLC
• Release date: Jun 2, 2021
• ISBN: 9781640868557

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MY JOURNEYS

Experiences on the Caminos of Santiago

de Compostela and the Chicamocha Canyon

Vicente Cabán

Original title: MIS CAMINOS First Edition: 2020

Translated by Cindy Costa

All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the copyright holders. The infringement of such rights may constitute an intellectual property offense.

The content of this work is the responsibility of the author and does not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher.

Published by Ibukku

www.ibukku.com

Graphic design: Índigo Estudio Gráfico

Copyright © 2020 Vicente Cabán

All rights reserved.

ISBN Hardback: 978-1-64086-853-3

ISBN Paperback: 978-1-64086-854-0

ISBN eBook: 978-1-64086-855-7

CONTENTS

Chapter I: The Panoramic Route

Chapter II: The Portuguese Way

Chapter III: The French Way-the Mountains

Chapter IV: The French Way-La Meseta

Chapter V: The French Way-More Mountains

Chapter VI: The Finisterre Way

Chapter VII: The Sanabrés Way

Chapter VIII: The Northern Way

Chapter IX: The Primitive Way

Chapter X: Return from the Dark

Maps of the Caminos

Chapter I: The Panoramic Route

When I decided to retire in 2009, I believed I was ready for a big change. I buried myself in the sea of paperwork required to make the transition from an organized, structured and regimented life to a new one that promised a rosy universe, just like a fairy tale where I could breathe and taste freedom. I put everything in order to make that grand first step, and very soon I became the proprietor of my own life. I no longer depended on the small, privileged gods that directed my miserable earthly existence.

I had prepared economically to enjoy my freedom and to be self-sufficient. With many plans and a world of ideas, I began to structure my life without interference from a hierarchical power peering over my shoulder. At first, it was difficult being my own boss, but with a great deal of effort and dedication, I succeeded; I began to enjoy the sweet life.

Although I greatly appreciated the change, I must confess that I missed my previous life; my new existence scared me a little and filled me with uncertainty. I missed my colleagues, friends, students, and even my superiors; but like everything in life, I was able to adapt to my new environment and make new friends. A new life with less structure replaced the old bosses who had manipulated my life for many years. Little by little, I adapted to my new existence by changing old habits, and by establishing and beginning to enjoy my next adventure.

Some say that man is an animal of routine, but also that he tires of beauty. Although I thought I would enjoy my new plan, I began to have episodes of anxiety, and I needed an escape valve. It was then, whether by accident or because the universe worked in my favor, that I discovered a new world. In one of my yoga classes, I met Dr. Roberto Ramirez Vivoni and mentioned to him that I had heard about the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, and that it sounded like it could be a great experience. He responded that if I wanted to complete that pilgrimage, I would have to be physically and mentally prepared.

With that in mind, I started taking classes not only in yoga, but in tai chi also. I meditated in the mornings in the comfort of my own home and felt I was preparing myself mentally for the challenge. However, I was missing the physical part. Roberto told me that he was on the board of directors of the Fondo de Mejoramiento de Puerto Rico, and that part of their activities included a hike along the Panoramic Route, which begins in Maunabo and ends in Mayaguez, covering a total of 248 kilometers across the mountain ridge that covers the entire island. He said it would be a great opportunity to prepare myself physically to be able to endure the Camino de Santiago de Compostela without any major difficulties.

Panoramic Route from Maunabo to Mayaguez

In January we began the hikes along the Panoramic Route which would prepare me for my future adventure. Those hikes offered much more than physical training because we were not just walking from point A to point B. We began early in the morning after a hearty breakfast often accompanied by a guitar, a cuatro (Puerto Rican guitar-like instrument with only four strings), maracas, and a guiro, another Puerto Rican instrument made from a gourd. During the early morning hours, white sheets of fog covered the mountains, and we were attacked by the early morning cold, but we overcame that with a significant amount of human body heat. We were more than just a group of friends; we were a family that jealously took care of all our members. We had to drive many kilometers to our pre-arranged destination. Getting up very early and navigating in the dark, many times in rain or fog, was a true odyssey, but we did it with enthusiasm. The reward of the company of such energetic hikers with a joy for life and fun, more than compensated for the sacrifice we endured on each leg of the journey. Each person hiked to his own rhythm, arriving progressively. Those who arrived earlier gave a festive welcome to everyone else as they straggled in. They cheered, congratulated, and sometimes even gave the small gift of mountain moonshine. We celebrated each arrival with much ado and music of the mountain people. The end of each leg of the journey was a beginning of celebration which extended for several hours during the day and sometimes into the night.

Every step of the journey revealed a distinct panorama, and all offered the typical beauty of our meadows and the enviable nobility of our country people. Hiking and enjoying so much of our land inhabited by such beautiful people was a celebration of our senses. However, not all was designed for our delight because our principal objectives were to exercise and prepare ourselves physically for the sacrifice we would eventually make, and the fatigue we would endure after walking so many kilometers. Many of the hills we had to climb and descend were a challenge we had to meet with gallantry. Some of the ascents were so notorious for the level of uneven ground and complex footing that they were baptized with names alluding to their difficulty: the Hill of Codfish, the Hill of Guilarte, and the Hill of Hell were respected by all who traveled them, but with patience, enthusiasm, wisdom, practice, and care, every hiker conquered those notorious ascents at their own pace. Armed with determination and happiness, one by one we were able to conquer the 18 phases to arrive at the city of Mayaguez.

The arrival in Mayaguez was quite an event. They received us like kings marching through the streets, accompanied by a municipal band. Later we were directed to City Hall where we were greeted by a representative of the Mayor and invited to a banquet in our honor, courtesy of the town. While we feasted, they awarded us with certificates for having completed the 248 kilometers.

The most significant moment occurred in the late afternoon when we were invited to enjoy hors d’oeuvres, and dance on the beach. We celebrated until late into the evening, but then the inevitable happened: we had to say goodbye. We all know that goodbyes are sad, but this one in particular was not only sad but very painful. Many of us had just met each other at the beginning of the hike in January 2015, and this celebration occurred at the end of March of the same year. Perhaps two months doesn’t seem like enough time to get to know people, but that farewell affected all of us; we experienced grief, sadness, and tears. The seeds of friendship were planted in Maunabo, and little by little germinated until they finally flowered and reached maturity at the end of the trail in Mayaguez. We consoled ourselves knowing that in the future we would meet on other paths, but that we each had to undertake our own paths for the moment. Mine took me to Portugal.

Chapter II: The Portuguese Way

When I decided to walk the Camino de Santiago de Compostela in the spring of 2015, I didn’t really have any clear motives for doing so; I just knew that I should do it.

After retirement, I meditated for some time, and it was because of that introspection that I discovered that my life was like a boat running adrift, with no direction in sight. I had no notion of which course to follow, and I needed an answer to help me choose the right path. I thought the answer could be found in the direction of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, and so I directed my steps toward Europe to begin my travels.

I left for Madrid, Spain, one warm evening in May. The long eight hours of the trip were monotonous and winding, because leaving at night and arriving the next morning is not pleasurable for someone who does not sleep well on planes. Upon arrival in Madrid, I had to travel on the Metro to get to Chamartín station, and then wait three long hours to board the train to Vigo, Spain. I took advantage of the six-and-a-half-hour train ride to rest a little. Then in Vigo, I had to wait approximately half an hour to board a bus that would take me to my final destination of Tui, Spain, where I would actually begin my walk to Santiago de Compostela.

I arrived very tired, but I had to find the hostel where I would spend the night. After walking fifteen minutes with my backpack over my shoulder, I arrived at my new home. As I was very tired, it didn’t take me long to shower, eat a light dinner, and then hit the bed for a long time. I woke quite early the next morning, and as I was not yet mentally or physically prepared to begin the journey after such a long trip just to get there, I decided to relax a bit and get to know the town of Tui and its surroundings. I proceeded to the Cathedral of Santa María of Tui to obtain my official credentials, duly executed and sealed, which would identify me as a pilgrim on the journey and assure me of accommodations in the hostels and inns along the way. They would also be necessary upon completion of the feat in Santiago de Compostela.

After breakfast I began walking and crossed the International Bridge that divides Spain from Portugal. From there I boarded a train that followed the river basin of the Rio Minho all the way to the mouth of the river; the trip was very relaxing and picturesque. Upon reaching the final stop in Caminha, Portugal, I left the train to wander around the town and outlying areas.

International Bridge Connecting Tui, Spain, and Valenca, Portugal

Returning to Valenca, I stopped to admire the city walls and enjoy the delicious offerings of the restaurants. I also took advantage of the time to stamp my credentials, thus making my journey international by connecting from Spain to Portugal. Once more I crossed the bridge to Tui and I wandered around visiting the local sites of interest.

On the morning of May 13, 2015, I rose early to begin my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. That first step from Tui to O Porriño presented quite a challenge to me; I didn’t know what to expect and I had to actually live the experiences to learn from them.

Leaving the first town of Tui, only just beginning my journey, I had my first disaster: I became distracted and missed the sign that indicated the route I was to follow. I had to return to the original starting point and begin again, this time in the correct direction. Little by little I grew accustomed to the path and began to enjoy the landscape and the environment. I was so captivated by the scenery that I arrived in O Porriño without even realizing I had completed that important first leg. After settling into my accommodations, washing my clothes, and dining, I went out to discover the small but picturesque village.

After a short walk through the streets, I decided to stop at a small café for a glass of wine. It was there I met other pilgrims from Germany and Holland who already had a table. They invited me to accompany them for a while and we got to know each other. Shortly after nine o’clock P.M. we decided to return to the hostel because the gate closed at ten, and we didn’t want to arrive late.

The next day I awoke before sunrise to take advantage of the morning and to arrive early in Pontevedra. I happily enjoyed the trail and its spectacular landscape. I knew that restaurants closed from two P.M. to eight P.M., so I decided to stop in one of the cafes along the way to grab a sandwich and a glass of wine. That way I wouldn’t have to eat a heavy meal in the evening when the restaurants opened. I also wanted to get into the habit of retiring early and rising early to get a good start the next day. I knew the restaurants in the area opened late in the morning and that I should eat breakfast before starting on the trek, so

Reviews for My Journeys

[Jaap van der Werff · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

What a wonderful ebook! I had the good fortune to meet Vicente last year (2023) on the Camino Portugues. This was my second Camino, after walking and completing the Norte route in 2017.
Vicente is the friendliest pilgrim I have encountered on my travels: while walking behind me on the trail he noticed that my backpack was ‘unbalanced’ and helped me to readjust the straps. We talked for a bit after that and he told me about his many Camino adventures and that he had written a book about it.
So glad to finally find it and read them all!
And just like Vicente, I am already planning my next Camino for later this year. Maybe the Primitivo!

Hope to meet you again on your travels, Vicente.
Stay strong,
Best wishes from Jacob (Netherlands)