Wave-Riding into Therapy: Sport-Science-Fiction-Psychology

By Matthew Stephen Kraus

A group of surfers ride waves at their local beaches and find cosmological explanations in elements of their sport. Over about twenty years as the wave riding is cosmologically described, they show surfing instincts and practices. Doctor Charlton, is a member of their coterie, and he comments along the way. He and another doctor, Doctor Luther, who also rides waves, therapeutically treat members of the group of surfers. But it is mostly Stoney, who is the more serious case. Their wave riding continues.
This book might be considered one of those one reads and puts on the shelf. Some parts are cosmological.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Xlibris US
• Release date: Nov 23, 2019
• ISBN: 9781796064582

Matthew Stephen Kraus

Matt is 69 and lives in Hawaii (Oahu). Having surfed some of his life, he lives in Haleiwa. He has done some song composing and written some poems with some poems being published. He wrote and published a scientific newsletter in the nineteen nineties and is five books published with this book, two with this publisher.

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Copyright © 2019 by Matthew Stephen Kraus.

ISBN:              Softcover           978-1-7960-6459-9

                        eBook                978-1-7960-6458-2

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright owner.

This is a work of fiction. All of the characters, names, incidents, organizations, and dialogue in this novel are either the products of the author’s imagination or are used fictitiously.

Any people depicted in stock imagery provided by Getty Images are models, and such images are being used for illustrative purposes only.

Certain stock imagery © Getty Images.

Rev. date: 11/22/2019

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Acknowledgments

I acknowledge the help from ‘grammerly’, a computer inclusion help that checks and with oversight corrects mistakes. This help has also been teaching me, it is amazing to be put right with regard to grammatical mistakes.

This book has a lot to do with surfing. The many surf movies, short clips included, that I have watched have supported my own experience in wave riding and aided me in writing this book.

This beach was down the coast from another beach. In-between beaches had a lot of good spots and waves. The miles of beach they usually hung out at was wide, wider in some places. It had a parking lot and facilities around the area. Down the road, a distance offered variations in the seashore. This wave riding gang was usually about the same old line-up, an in-between spot.

It was a normal wave riding day. Sometimes wave riding meant normal living. They came in from riding waves as just another day at work.

Though not everyone in the group had a job, Dr. Charlton and Dr. Luther were working people, Tommy, Stoney, and Ricky held jobs from time to time, Ida usually worked part-time, and Bobby worked in a wave riding support area. Some times of being unemployed passed. The doctors were senior to the others. A wave riding discipline that helped them to grow with the enchantment by the ocean was natural.

The weather was almost always fairly good when the members of this wave riding gang were there.

For one who surfed the spot, there was freedom from top spot excitement and crowding.

While the line-up could change due to prevailing weather conditions, the character of the swell added to the line-up changes.

One character of the swell, its incoming direction, offered a regular line-up change to a narrow, one person line-up, the tide could change it to allow two or more. Swell direction was often described as the best effect to the line-up.

The attention given by individuals lining up, particular line-ups could be less important in some cases.

Wave riding was the thing. The waves rolled in. Times passed.

***

One late morning was much like another, reports of good surf were heard.

They were dedicated wave riders and these were the most alluring waves of the season, the spot was tempting any seasoned surfer. A rare breaking six-foot reef-sand sandbar spot nearby was up.

In addition, rarely up good waves had to have the right swell direction. This spot usually produced feelings of caution by being unapproachable due to its protective reef. But it was good this time.

Yet there was a soft, beautiful punishment for them all. Most wave riders suffered dramatic mental experience facing the waves at this spot at its best. The reward of good consequences of bravery were great rides on the best waves.

Just the sight of the wave in a set on the outer reef two miles away was exciting. When a set unusually larger than other sets near it in the swell gets to the line-up, the wave-riders might find these waves unrideable, over the reef and a new line-up might be preferable. The new line-up requires paddling to get there. It could be in a current and staying lined up would require constant paddling.

Bobby, who knew most of the gang and doctors, was out. He was known for solo surfing. He proposed being the sole person out on occasion.

Normally surfing at a nearby spot, Bobby and others were catching waves.

They watched him.

He often caught a wave he saw outside and down the coast from the line-up, he caught it before anyone else. Catching the waves successfully gave Bobby the best reward possible.

He was often in a better than average position in the wider than usual line-up, he rode so well showing Tommy and the rest of this crew how it could be done.

Sometimes he saw the outside wave first as a differentiation in the color of the water further out.

Just the distinguished sight of the wave in a set on the outer reef two miles away was stimulating. Bobby saw it from the line up before anyone else saw it. He peered hard. And he usually rode without wiping out.

The people in between Bobby and the distant wave sighted had agreed to feelings with regard to the dangers. The surf spots loaded with surfers were shining bright in the midday sun as more waves came to the area where they sat. The high water marks were going to get moved up a little and the possibility of riding the pristine, seeming to be perfect waves excited Tommy, Stoney, and Dr. Charlton.

It was a bigger set and at that spot, it could spell trouble.

Mishap, though unlikely, could result if some strange-moving lining-up transpired, and getting caught inside and getting swept into the reef was bad. With thoughts such as these, that surf came up and still some people were plainly out too far.

Tommy had gone out. Stoney was soon out. He was just past the early waves of the set rolling in. He rode waves.

***

Another time at a nearby, wave-riding location, the same group was there with Ricky. Ricky was a versatile surfer and intellectual person enjoying the company. He leads into the water to paddle out.

Ricky and several of his friends were soon well read up on a new thing of surfing, observing the energy, a sometimes acknowledged power of wave riding. And the observable waves energy of being ridden could extend out from the location of the wave riding and be felt and revered by some.

As of some wave riders with the flight of thought, the three-sixty aerial maneuver or/and on the wave, which had to be so good, was a mysterious event in wave riding. The distance of the energy power from the wave and rider that went into the environment was an effect estimated and looking as having a source in the wave riding.

An astute observer of the sea might apply this existentially conceptualized wave riding observation to himself, suggested Dr. Charlton.

Dr. Charlton said, If it were a game that would really complicate the sport.

Tommy concluded that there was an exhibition to be found.

Ricky commented, Another observer of the sea might see the gravitational freedom of waves of the sea.

Dr. Charlton added, A little wave might take its power from the waves of the day. And one might ride waves of a consideration in which the great body of the sea is, rather than the waves on its surface, assumed to be rideable. Riding waves is so as to be in flight like a bird, a plane or some other object.

Hypothetically, one’s obvious resources to this flight were in an assumed consideration, there is a power in the flight of the waves as they break, and possibly of the sea, the foam, and seawater that might be considered to exhibit inherent power.

The surf had a hypothetical flight of power.

Stoney was in relation to the zero gravity of seawater-matter. He was just a factor produced in the exhibition.

Dr. Charlton commented, That gravitational freedom, assumed to exist in a so-called power flight three-sixty aerial, is a phenomenon of power in the waves. And to surf it, it comes to the wave rider and goes to a distance that is of the radius of a breaking wave. On a three-sixty maneuver, three hundred and sixty (for the degrees of a circle) are multiplied by the length of the surfboard rotating in the air over a breaking wave, rider on the board

Tommy added, "That’s three hundred sixty plus five, a five-foot wave, three hundred sixty-five, times five, it’s a five-foot board, it equals 1,825. Inside the radius of one thousand eight hundred twenty-five degree-feet from where the maneuver occurred is enhanced with the energy power of the powerful ride.

Ricky added shyly, Or add with the diameter of the wave’s curl?

Everybody looked at Ricky as he gazed to the continuously, this day, breaking waves.

Tommy was into that. The board he rode was the center of a radius in which the powered flight, which was of the three-sixty maneuver, was performed and exhibited. Tommy sought to and accomplished many of the three-sixties, sometimes more than once on the same wave.

It could not work if one drifted, they would drift from a position on the board in the middle of the maneuver, falter and lose the wave-distance, which was generous on a good day.

Then, many surfers were performing it. That energy power expansion would be to the point that anyone in the area within the radius of surf gravity freedom being generated by the riders, which cast an enhancement into the area and atmosphere, could experience it.

Some spectators, who were witnessing the event, rolled up their car windows and turned on their air conditioners. Outside in the surf, one surfer after another was trying and succeeding. And this was proving the event. The energy power had to expand so miles away the event was discernible.

Bobby was out.

Aerials I call it, Bobby said to Tommy who was also paddling out from riding a wave in. He was gliding until slowing to land. He performed the three-sixty regularly.

The powerful flight of gravity exited waves breaking near the gradual rising shoreline of the shore on a surf day. Gravity freedom came to allow it when the wave phenomena were just right, so it might involve space relations. In time the waves lost intensity, the wave riders rested.

The day progressed and most of the wave riders had come in. Dr. Charlton was there. He looked at Stoney, who had strained a leg.

Dr. Charlton said, It’s going to get dark and cool, the weather is changing. Why don’t you come over to my house and rest your pulled tendon.

Stoney said, I don’t know.

I’ve got a recuperation sandbox set up and you can use it. You’ll have to be patient though, you can wear a jumpsuit I have handy and the sand is heated to about one hundred twenty degrees, just like at the beach on a nice, hot day. So you can use it for a while. You can use it after it is warmed up.

Thanks, Dr. Charlton. Maybe I’ll do that. Stoney answered.

Dr. Charlton said, It’s good. I’ll see you there.

Surfing with Tommy, replied Stoney, is really good, once clean wave riding is evening up the classic gravity.

The antigravity wears its kind recipients, echoed Dr. Luther.

It’s a delusion? Stoney asked.

The heated sand was ready, Stoney was recuperating and Tommy went home. The days passed and the gang was at the nearby beach again.

Dr. Charlton had been out, he found the wave riding psychologically and physically rewarding. He got quite a few good rides.

Yes, surfing is the reward to get, said Ricky.

Ricky, too, was going surfing.

***

The wave riding was good again a few weeks later.

Psyching the surf is okay, commented Tommy.

Tommy had just arrived from riding waves up the beach a couple of dozen yards from where there was a channel. The surf was really good.

It’s the promise! said Ricky.

The promise of waves is there. replied Doctor Charlton, Are you wave riding it?

And, Ricky said, it goes on in surfing. After all, it’s life and the experience is a ways away.

Long life, that isn’t very different from the surfing experience, said Dr. Charlton.

Dr. Charlton watched as a wave unusually broke on the shore. Waves having just reformed, including the previous wave, combined and rolled up the beach.

He had once been a professional surfer. He came there in his station wagon to watch the waves roll in and got to talking with the gang there.

A board was being taken off the roof of a car as he just arrived was unhooking his. Some of his professional doctor friends, who didn’t allow the sporting life for themselves, were jealous he lived for himself as a wave rider. Most of them were respecters of self living and felt life could be lived to the fullest, maintaining regular hours.

The group was having another time surfing. This day was particular.

Tommy