Stalking Michelangelo, Finding God
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About this ebook
Christine M. Panyard
Christine M. Panyard was a practicing psychologist for forty-three years and a professor at the University of Detroit Mercy for almost thirty years. She spent most of her career working with substance abusers and police officers. A passion for Renaissance art and Holy Scripture led her to a new life that focuses on beauty and spirit.
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Stalking Michelangelo, Finding God - Christine M. Panyard
1
The Journey Begins
"M ove along. Move along per favore" barked the tour guide as we were herded through the Vatican Museum. There was no time to admire the wall sized tapestries or the statues from the glory days of the Roman Empire. The museum was crowded with tourists on holiday and students required to contemplate one more work of art. Our group tried to stay together as we were herded through the halls of one of the world’s greatest museums towards the most celebrated chapel in Christendom, the Sistine Chapel.
We were funneled into a smallish hallway and through an unpretentious door. I had expected to enter the chapel from the rear and walk towards the altar as you do in most churches. Instead, I found myself at the front of the chapel. Michelangelo’s fresco of the Last Judgment leapt at me from the right. I could have touched the images of sinners being dragged to hell or ferried over the River Styx by Charon. The most famous chapel in the world exploded with vibrant images I seemed to have known all my life. The paintings on the walls and ceiling were familiar from the huge art books I had left at home, not to mention that they have been used over and over again in our popular culture. God separating light from darkness. God creating the world in a frenzy of energy. Christ separating the saved from the damned. And, of course, the creation of man. God’s hand reaching towards Adam to gift him with life is iconic.
I craned my neck to get a better view. It was difficult to navigate the length of the chapel. I wanted to take in as much of the room as possible and not get trampled by other, much taller, tourists. Where would I begin? How could I make sense of the hundreds of figures in the hundreds of paintings that filled the chapel? The noise from the tourists oohing and aahing at this artistic feast and the voices of museum guards yelling No photo, no photo
produced a cacophony that added to my sense of being overwhelmed. Much too soon, I heard that familiar voice imploring, Move along. Move along per favore
and we were outside the chapel. My visit to the Sistine Chapel was the highlight of my first trip to Rome. Those twenty minutes with Michelangelo changed my life.
We exited the chapel, turned right through a small hallway and entered St. Peter’s Basilica, the grandest church in the world, and designed by Michelangelo. We were at the back of the church and the first chapel we passed held the famous Rome Pieta. Michelangelo sculpted it for the French cardinal Jean de Bilheres. Cardinal Bilheres wanted the most beautiful statue in the world to grace his tomb and he got exactly what he ordered. The Rome Pieta didn’t stay with his remains. It was moved many times during the reconstruction of the basilica and now rests safely behind bullet proof glass in a side chapel.
I gasped when I saw the Rome Pieta. Like the paintings on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, I was familiar with this work. I didn’t expect such a visceral reaction. My heart started to race and Hail Marys started coming out of my mouth like bullets out of a machine gun. I’m a cradle Catholic so saying the familiar prayer was something I’ve done all my life even when a lapsed Catholic. I’ve said thousands of Hail Marys when I’ve been afraid but I never expected them to pour from my lips as I stood before the most beautiful statue in the world. I was touched. I was moved. I was in awe of Michelangelo’s ability to capture death and grief in stone. I could see every vein in the feet of Christ and every fold in Mary’s gown. The statue seemed capable of movement. Michelangelo, at the tender age of 21, had breathed life into marble.
Michelangelo, so the story goes, overheard someone attributing the Rome Pieta to another sculptor. He snuck into the church at night and carved his name on a sash that crossed the Madonna’s chest. Michelangelo Buonarroti, Florentine made this
is the English translation. His work became so famous and so unique during his lifetime that he never again felt the need to sign any of his sculptures. No artist has ever come close to producing works with the power and detail of Michelangelo. I could have spent more time contemplating the Rome Pieta, but once again I heard Move along. Move along, per favore.
St. Peter’s Basilica, Rome
St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest church in the world. As you walk down the central aisle, the nave, you’ll find markers of where other cathedrals would fit inside St. Peter’s. It is truly one of the most awe-inspiring structures in the world. The architects of the basilica understood the human psyche very well. Everything in the basilica is on a grand scale that makes the individual seem small and humble before God and the Church. The arches and columns are immense. The statues of popes and saints are huge. Everything towers over the visitor as you walk down the nave towards the altar. Above the altar is the dome of St. Peters, the crown jewel in the Roman skyline. No building is allowed to be taller than St. Peter’s.
St. Peter’s Basilica was more than a thousand years old by the time the Renaissance began. It was dilapidated and in need of replacement. Michelangelo was one of many architects to work on the new basilica. He became the Architect of the Vatican in 1547. He reworked the floor plan and created the dome over the altar. In those days, without the benefit of modern machines to help with construction, raising a building the size of St. Peter’s took decades, and in some cases a hundred years. Many architects never lived long enough to see their plans completed. Such was the case with Michelangelo. His student, Giacomo Della Porta, completed the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in 1590, 26 years after Michelangelo died.
The windows in the dome fill the basilica with light. It looks and feels as if divine light is flooding the church. My eyes moved right to the top. There is a gallery around the base of the dome and visitors fit enough can climb the stairs to reach it. Mercifully, signs are posted near the entrance to the dome warning the intrepid pilgrim of the hundreds of steps that await them. I could only imagine what the sight would have been from the gallery. I’m very achievement oriented, a real Type A personality. I was also 56, with one episode of tachycardia under my belt. I decided to heed the voice of my tour guide and move along
.
Interior of St. Peter’s Basilica, Rome
My visit to St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel left me wanting much more. I wanted more time to explore the collections in the Vatican Museums, more time to pray in this most holy place (Did I really say pray?), and more time to contemplate the works of Michelangelo. In one morning, I saw the most famous frescoes in the world, the most beautiful statue in the world, and the most awesome church in the world. They were all the work of one man. I wanted to understand the roots of Michelangelo’s greatness. What artists helped to shaped his work? How did he develop such skill in sculpture, painting and architecture? What was the nature of the faith that sustained him and was the foundation of his work? I was driven to the point of obsession. I wanted to learn all I could about Michelangelo. I was on the brink of a grand adventure as I began stalking Michelangelo.
Michelangelo spent most of his life inside churches or working for the Catholic Church. He was apprenticed as a boy to Dominico Ghirlandaio, a Florentine famous for his frescos. Michelangelo copied the works of his master in his sketchbooks and probably assisted him in churches around town. Michelangelo was a devout Catholic and went to Mass regularly. He knew scripture well and was reported to have memorized quite a bit of Dante’s Divine Comedy. His conflicts with his papal patrons are legendary and yet he always felt at home in church.
Unlike Michelangelo, I spent a long time outside the Church. I appreciated its role in history, the beauty of its architecture, and the pomp of its rituals but I didn’t belong there. Maybe I was too much a product of my culture. Sex, drugs and rock and roll were the creed of a child growing up in the 60’s. The old-fashioned virtues of chastity, poverty and obedience didn’t seem to apply anymore. The world had moved on. The Church seemed like a relic of a distant era. It didn’t fit in the world anymore and I didn’t fit in organized religion.
I found myself spending considerable time in churches as I stalked Michelangelo. I wanted to see as much of his work in person as possible and to learn about the artists that influenced him. Seeing an artist’s work in person is similar to