Lesotho

By David Fleminger

From the mists of Basotho legend—from the time of King Moshoeshoe. The tiny country of Lesotho is entirely surrounded by South Africa, yet it remains one of the most remote and unexplored areas in the region. The reason for this isolation is the mountains—row upon row of serrated peaks make this the country with the highest ‘low point’ in the world. But the mountains that give Lesotho its dramatic landscapes have also played a crucial role in creating a country with a unique history. It’s a stirring story of courage and cunning, featuring remarkable individuals such as King Moshoeshoe—founder of the Basotho nation—who first gathered people together on the flat-topped hill Thaba Bosiu, the mountain of night. Today, Lesotho is an irresistible lure to adventurous travellers who want to head off the beaten path and tackle the mighty mountains. But Lesotho isn’t as inaccessible as it seems. The country is bisected by a number of tarred and gravel roads and these lead the motorist on jaw-dropping drives through some of the highest mountains this side of Kilimanjaro. Small rural villages nestle on the slopes, much as they have done for over 200 years, and delightful lodges are tucked away in secluded valleys. All in all, it’s a land of secret vistas and pristine scenery. This book is the first travel guide dedicated solely to Lesotho. It will give the traveller an insight into the remarkable history of the country. Suggested itineraries are included, along with accommodation options, leisure activities and other useful information for trip-planning.

• Language: English
• Publisher: 30 Degrees South Publishers
• Release date: Jan 19, 2010
• ISBN: 9781928211105

Book preview

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Praise for Swaziland—A Southbound Travel Guide

Informal, easy to read and extremely detailed, the Pocket Guide to Swaziland will prove to be an indispensable travelling companion. The next best thing, in fact, to hiring your own personal guide

Sarah Borchert, Africa Geographic

… the first to be published internationally detailing only Swaziland since 1983 … readers can be assured of the latest information.

Lesley Thomson, Africa Talks

… a handy companion …

Neels Blom, The Weekender

Fleminger’s chatty and informative style will make you feel as though you have a guide with you all the time—one who keeps you laughing … Don’t think of visiting Swaziland without it.

Lisa Witepski, Vision Magazine

David Fleminger’s breezy, confident style imparts no-nonsense advice, tips and general information with ease. One would expect a travel guide to be a useful companion on the road; it’s an added bonus when it is passionate and entertaining as well

Sarah Borchert, Africa Geographic

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Also by David Fleminger:

Back Roads of the Cape (Jacana 2005)

Robben Island (Southbound 2006)

The Cradle of Humankind (Southbound 2006)

Vredefort Dome (Southbound 2006)

Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape (Southbound 2006)

The Richtersveld Cultural and Botanical Landscape—including Namaqualand (Southbound 2008)

Swaziland (Southbound 2009)

eBook published in 2013 by:

Southbound

an imprint of 30° South Publishers (Pty) Ltd.

16 Ivy Road, Pinetown

South Africa

www.30degreessouth.co.za

[e-mail]

Copyright text © 30° South Publishers (Pty) Ltd., 2010

eBook text © 30° South Publishers (Pty) Ltd., 2013

Copyright photos © David Fleminger, 2010

eBook photos © David Fleminger, 2013

Cover photograph by Roger de la Harpe / Great Stock

Design and origination by 30° South Publishers (Pty) Ltd.

Printed and bound by Pinetown Printers, Durban

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored,

manipulated in any retrieval system, or transmitted in any mechanical,

electronic form or by any other means, without the prior written authority of

the publishers, except for short extracts in media reviews. Any person who

engages in any unauthorized activity in relation to this publication shall be

liable to criminal prosecution and claims for civil and criminal damages.

9781928211105

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To my parents Norman and Flora—

for always pulling through, no matter what.

Table of Contents

Praise for Swaziland—A Southbound Travel Guide

Title Page

Also by David Fleminger:

Copyright Page

Dedication

Part 1—About Lesotho

The basics

History

Modern politics (1993 to the present)

Part 2—Exploring Lesotho

Know before you go

Getting there

Getting around Lesotho

Border information

Telephones and mobile phones

Those little beggars

Activities

Maseru

Day trips from Maseru

The North

The road to Katse

Mafika Lisiu Pass

The Centre

Ramabanta

Thaba Tseka

The South

Dinosaur Footprints

Suggested routes

Tour operators

Part 3—General information

Public Holidays 2010

Annual Events

Border Posts

Banking and currency

Postal services

Telecommunications

Crime and safety

Embassies and agencies

Hospitals and medical services

Photography

Tourism development

Sesotho phrases, pronunciation and proverbs

National Anthem

Websites and contacts

References / further reading

Author’s notes

Index

Notes:

Road maps of Lesotho are notoriously inaccurate. So these distances were calculated using the latest version of Garmin’s Mapsource software and Garmap’s Southern Africa 2009 mapset. Do note, however, that Mapsource did not always agree with the mileage table on the ‘official’ AA map of Lesotho. The figures in the above table should therefore be considered as approximations. Use your discretion and incorporate an appropriate margin of error (up to 10km).

The distances given are generally for the fastest practical route between the two given points, not necessarily the shortest. Where more than one distance is listed, the one on the top is the quickest route to take.

* denotes that the route includes a substantial amount of gravel travel.

** denotes that the route incorporates the road between Sehlabathebe and Thaba Tseka, which is REALLY bad. Do not plan on using it as a thoroughfare.

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A figure in italics denotes that you will be using the A1 road between Oxbow and Mokhotlong, which is tarred, but in a terrible state. I would say avoid it if you can, but it is currently the quickest way to Mokhotlong. The only other route you can take is the Mountain Road, which is shorter by about 50km but will take up to 2 hours longer to drive (Maseru to Mokhotlong will take 7 hours by the Mountain Road as opposed to a little more than 5 hours on the A1).

A figure in bold indicates that the route incorporates the Mountain Road.

Distances for Sehlabathebe are measured from the village, close to the entrance gate to Sehlabathebe National Park. The Lodge inside the park is about 10kms/45mins away from the gate.

Part 1—About Lesotho

Lesotho isn’t just another country; it’s another world. And it’s begging to be explored.

Famously known as the ‘Kingdom in the Sky’, the ‘Mountain Kingdom’, or the rather quaint ‘Land of the Blanket People’, Lesotho is all of those things and more. Venture inside and you will be rewarded with unique landscapes, thrilling roads down which to travel and a pervading sense of abundant, profound peace. The country also offers visitors a variety of outdoor activities, a rich history and a strong sense of cultural integrity.

All in all, this small landlocked territory is a gem. But, despite the fact that it is completely surrounded by South Africa, Lesotho is sadly neglected by both the millions of international tourists who visit the subcontinent every year and the South Africans themselves. And that’s a great pity, because it’s a truly beautiful and fascinating place, packed with potential.

This book, therefore, is an attempt to remedy the situation. It’s the first full-length guide to the country written in over a decade, and in the pages that follow you will find just about everything you’re likely to need to plan, understand and appreciate your trip into the world of the Basotho.

Furthermore, my goal throughout has been to make the Mountain Kingdom as accessible as possible. You see, I want everyone to experience Lesotho—and you can! Don’t be put off by the notion that you’ll need a 4x4, a tent and a week’s worth of supplies before you dare put a toe over the border. That may have been true in the past when Lesotho’s mountain roads were, indeed, very rudimentary. Now, however, many of the main thoroughfares are tarred and an ordinary car will take you comfortably to all kinds of interesting destinations. Backpackers will also be glad to note that there is a serviceable public transport system which incorporates buses and minibus taxis.

Of course, if you do have an off-road vehicle at your disposal, so much the better. A basic SUV will happily handle the network of stunning gravel roads, while a proper 4-wheel-drive will grant you access to a special selection of rugged routes revealing a hidden world that is as remote as it is remarkable.

You see, nothing about Lesotho is simple. In many respects it is a country that defies convention or analysis; a place where things get done in their own way and on their own terms. After all, the mountainous landscape is difficult to navigate (both literally and figuratively), so everything takes longer than you think it will.

Every town, every lodge, every trading post has a story to tell.

This book is split into two sections. Part One contains an overview of Lesotho’s current status as well as a brief history of the territory. In Part Two, there is comprehensive information for the tourist on where to stay, where to eat, where to go and what to do—all mixed in with personal and historical stories from each region. You will also find suggested itineraries, useful travel information and recommendations for further reading at the back of the book.

Hopefully you’ll be stimulated enough to embark on your first/next visit to Lesotho as soon as possible. You won’t be disappointed by this grand country that offers visitors a sensory journey through surreal mountain moonscapes, majestic waterfalls, traditional villages and rustic lodges.

The basics

In just about every respect, Lesotho is characterized by its size and its height. It’s small and yet very, very mountainous—a geographical paradox that has defined both its cultural and historical evolution.

In fact, Lesotho is the only country in the world situated entirely above 1,000m, making it the country with the highest low point in the world at 1,388m—comfortably beating its nearest rivals, Rwanda and Andorra. Incidentally, the country with the lowest high point is the Maldives, a chain of tropical islands that never gets much over 15m above sea level—so now you know.

Lesotho also contains Thabana Ntlenayana—at 3,482m, it’s the highest point in Africa south of Kilimanjaro’s 4,600m summit (and much easier to climb). The peak is located on the Lesotho side of the Drakensberg/Maloti mountain chain, close to Sani Top, and can be visited as part of a day hike or pony trek.

But these lofty facts are only the tip of the iceberg, so to speak. You have to dig a little deeper to find out what really goes on behind Lesotho’s implacable stone face. So in the section that follows, we’re going to get acquainted with some basic facts about the country …

Size and location

Lesotho is an independent sovereign state that covers a total land area of 30,355 square kilometres. This makes it about the same size as Belgium and twice as big as Swaziland. Traditionally the territory was much larger (especially in the west), but its borders were significantly reduced after the British took over.

In its current incarnation, then, the country is kidney-shaped (roughly) and measures about 175km from top to bottom and no more than 220km from side to side, as the crow flies. But don’t think that you can drive across Lesotho in a couple of hours. The throng of mountains that cover most of the territory make distances irrelevant, and you should take this into account when planning your trip.

Speaking in terms of latitude and longitude, Lesotho lies between 28° and 31° south and 27° and 30° east. This places the country just to the right of the centre of South Africa, which surrounds Lesotho’s 909-kilometre circumference.

The entire eastern half of Lesotho is dominated by the relentlessly mountainous highlands, which cover about two thirds of the country. Although this succession of towering peaks and plunging valleys is dotted with small villages, the human population is sparse and the economy is largely a subsistence one. The most important highland towns include Thaba Tseka, Mokhotlong and Qacha’s Nek.

The flatter western lowlands, on the other hand, are more accessible and contain the country’s main urban centres, industries, farmlands and about 65% of the population. Despite the name, the Lowlands actually consist of a series of high grassy plains situated at around 1,600m above sea level. The most important lowland towns include Butha-Buthe, Leribe/Hlotse, Teyateyaneng, Maseru, Mafeteng, Mohale’s Hoek and Quthing/Moyeni.

Population

The earliest official population census was conducted by the British in 1875, and it gave the total population of Lesotho as 128,176. By 1996, that number had swelled to a little over two million. Over the last ten years, however, Lesotho’s population has not grown very much, if at all (the 2007 growth rate was 0.8%, and it is thought to be falling). As such, the current population is estimated at around 2.1 million (roughly double that of Swaziland), and about 35% of the population is under 14 years old.

This demographic is the result of a declining birth rate and a high incidence of HIV and AIDS, as well as a constant stream of migration to neighbouring South Africa. The latter factor has been an ongoing trend for many decades, and Lesotho’s population was similarly static from 1936 to 1956, during which time an estimated 200,000 Basotho left the country to settle in South Africa. This labour-related migration only slowed down in the early 1990s, after South Africa changed the regulations and it became harder for Basotho workers to get permanent residence. Nevertheless, today there are still about 250,000 Lesotho nationals living in South Africa at any given time.

Despite an active agricultural economy, about 30% of Lesotho’s population now live in urban areas (mainly in the western lowlands). This figure is rising every year as a result of poor crop yields and a lack of employment opportunities.

Other sobering population statistics are as follows: the average age in Lesotho is 22. The average life expectancy is a little over 40 years. Twenty-five percent of the urban population live below the poverty line; 17% of children under five are malnourished. Infant mortality is ten percent. On the upside, the literacy rate is 82% (compared to a sub-Saharan average rate of 59%), 78% of the population have access to an ‘improved water source’, and most children are enrolled in a school.

Although the vast majority of the population is a culturally homogenous group known as the Basotho, Lesotho is also home to several Nguni-language groups (such as the Baphuthi and the Xhosa-speaking amaVundle who both live in the southern Quthing region). The Bushmen or San people who were the original inhabitants of Lesotho have been locally extinct for nearly 100 years, chased out by Basotho and British interlopers in the latter part of the nineteenth century.

Other cultural or racial groups present in the country include Indians, whites and coloured people who tend to work in commerce or industry (many of these inhabitants are born outside the country, and most are likely to leave once their work is done). But the largest expatriate community currently living in Lesotho is actually the Chinese, who now have a community over 5,000 strong.

Many Chinese have come to Lesotho to run factories (mainly clothing and textile) or construction companies (which seem to secure a lot of government contracts). Generally speaking, the owners of these companies are Taiwanese while the workers and managers are from mainland China.

Then there are the Chinese traders. Today, just about every town and village, no matter how remote, has at least one ‘Chinese Shop’ where you can buy anything you can think of, as long as it’s ‘Made in China’. The Chinese have thus supplanted the old white traders as a major vector of commerce, especially in rural Lesotho. The licences for these stores are generally owned by Basotho citizens and then sublet to the Chinese operators. Interestingly, the Chinese traders tend to learn the Sesotho language before they learn English—so it can be challenging to ask them for directions.

There is also a large Chinese community in Ladybrand, just across the border from Maseru. This is where the married Chinese go to settle down, and Ladybrand’s Chinese-language school has just celebrated its tenth anniversary.

Climate

Lesotho is situated in the sub-tropical latitudes, so summers (October to March) are warm and winters (April to September) are mild. But that’s only in the lowlands. Up in the mountains, the weather is generally colder and much more volatile. As such, temperatures will vary dramatically depending on where you are: from a dry high of 35°C in Maseru in the middle of summer to as low as – 17°C on the high Berg in winter. The average annual rainfall in Lesotho is about 753mm, although the rate can be up to three times higher in the mountains. This regular precipitation and a high run-off rate give rise to dozens of rivers that carve great valleys through the basalt and sandstone rocks. These declivities give Lesotho its distinctive scenery, but they also make it difficult to get from place to place unless there is a bridge at hand.

Lesotho is in a summer rainfall area, and from October to March you can expect regular afternoon thunderstorms, which may cause sudden but transient flooding in the valleys. In winter, the skies are clear but the air is cold and the wind can be merciless. Snow and ice are relatively common in the highlands in winter, but it can snow in summer too (Sani Top has experienced several white Christmases over the years). Fog and heavy cloud cover can also blanket the mountains throughout the year. So, dress appropriately and bear in mind that it’s probably a good idea to bring along something warm and waterproof no matter where or when you visit … just in case.

Lesotho Meteorological Services: www.lesmet.org.ls

Language

Lesotho has two official languages: English and Sesotho. Also known as Southern Sotho, the latter is the language of King Moshoeshoe and is affiliated to the Setswana and Sepedi language groups (which are sometimes called Northern Sotho).

As such, Sesotho is spoken right across Lesotho. English is also commonly spoken or at least understood by many people, especially in the urban areas, thanks to the highly functional education system that uses both Sesotho and English as mediums of instruction. This means that you will usually find someone who speaks a bit of English, no matter how remote the village. Just look around for the youngsters. The older folk probably won’t understand a word you say, and vice versa.

For more information about the Sesotho language, see the ‘Sotho Phrases, Pronunciation and Proverbs’ section at the end of this book.

Religion

The Christian Council of Lesotho (which has representatives from all the major churches in the country) estimates that approximately 90% of the population is Christian.

Denominationally speaking, this breaks down as follows: 45% Roman Catholic, 26% Lesotho Evangelical Church (the LEC was formerly the Protestant-affiliated Paris Evangelical Missionary Society or PEMS) and 19% ‘other’ (including the Anglican Church of Lesotho, American Methodist Episcopal, Seventh Day Adventist, Dutch Reformed, Lesotho Methodist and various Pentecostal churches). However, in the future, these percentages may change as a number of charismatic church groups are becoming very popular and taking supporters away from more traditional congregations.

The remaining 10% of the population is made up of Muslims, Hindus, Buddhists, Baha’i and followers of traditional indigenous religions. Several lowland towns have a functioning mosque, but the long-planned Islamic centre, which has been on the cards since the 1970s, has yet to see the light of day (despite recent support from the Libyan Embassy).

Legislatively speaking, the Constitution of Lesotho provides for freedom of religion and there is no indication that the government favours any one particular denomination over another (although some political parties have been affiliated to specific churches in the past). It is hard to register as a religion, however, as there is no established protocol in place and this makes it tricky to get any tax relief on charitable donations. Nevertheless, there are a number of international faith-based charities working in Lesotho, mainly in the fields of HIV management, sustainable farming, childcare, education, maternity and health care.

Education

One thing you will notice as you drive around Lesotho is that there are schools absolutely everywhere. No matter how many miles from civilization you might think you are, just turn a corner and you’ll see a sign for three or four schools pointing off down the next track. In fact, there’s hardly a child who doesn’t have at least a primary school within 10km of their home—no mean feat when you consider the topography.

This proliferation of schools is thanks, in the main, to missionaries who worked tirelessly in their task of bringing education to the people. Even today, the majority of schools are managed by church organizations, several of which have their own education secretariats. These governing bodies work in collaboration with the national Ministry of Education, which pays the teachers, develops syllabi, inspects schools and sets the examinations.

Accordingly, in 2001, the LEC was in charge of 480 primary and 69 secondary schools; the Catholics had 508 primary and 78 secondary institutions, the Anglicans were on 176 and 31 respectively, the American Methodist Episcopal boasted 23 primary and 5 secondary and other missions mustered a total of 47 primary and ten secondary. The government and local committees, on the other hand, were responsible for a paltry total of 59 primary and 23 secondary schools. There were also two private primary schools and one private high school as well as a couple of nursery schools in the main urban centres.

Altogether, that makes a total of 1,295 primary schools with 415,007 students in 6,544 classrooms (not including church halls and tents) being taught by 8,762 teachers (2,204 of whom were unqualified). The 217 secondary schools stacked up as follows: 77,919 pupils in 2,020 classrooms with 3,290 teachers (353 of whom had no teaching qualification).

All in all, it isn’t a bad achievement, and Lesotho’s literacy rate has been around 80% for many years, making it one of the highest in Africa. However, there are some problems that need attention …

In 2006, for example, only 48% of primary school pupils had a desk (the others either used an improvized form of seating, such as a mud bench, or sat on the floor). Some schools also do not have running water, hygienic ablutions or even classrooms, while several lowland schools are badly overcrowded with more than 70 students to a class. Furthermore, in 2006, the number of qualified primary school teachers had dropped to 58%.

Things are slightly better in the secondary schools, with 72% of teachers being qualified, but there is still a severe skills shortage in the fields of maths and science (many high school pupils don’t receive a mark for maths because there is no teacher). Unless this break in the training cycle is addressed, it is feared that Lesotho’s supply of medical and technical personnel will soon start to run out. Previously, teachers from Canada, Ghana, India, Sri Lanka, the UK and the USA were recruited to teach these subjects (in 1980, there were 1,122 schoolteachers, 346 of whom were foreigners), but the supply of willing volunteers seems to have dried up of late.

The Ministry of Education is doing the best it can to address these challenges, but its annual budget of M550 million (in 2001) is humble, even though it is one of the highest spends relative to GDP in the world. Roughly speaking, half of this amount is spent on primary schooling; about M170 million goes towards secondary education, and M100 million is for tertiary education. This includes the national university, agricultural courses, technical training and teacher training facilities (the National Teacher Training College opened in 1975).

Briefly, then, the education system works like this: after completing primary school (which between 70 and 80% of pupils will do), students move to secondary school. This consists of three years of ‘junior secondary’ and two years of ‘high school’, separated by a Junior Certificate exam. At the end of high school, students write the Cambridge Overseas School Certificate exams (which about 50% of them will pass). These tests determine whether or not pupils will be allowed into a tertiary institution such as the National University of Lesotho (see ‘Roma’ section for more info). Sesotho is the main medium of education in primary school, but English is used predominantly during the secondary phase.

Primary schooling has been free since 1974, and kids usually get a meal during the day (many schools have their own vegetable garden with piped water, thanks to the Save the Children Fund and the government’s Food Management Unit). This encourages high levels of enrolment.

However, pupils have to buy their own uniforms and some textbooks, which is a barrier to education. Furthermore, secondary school is not free and this results in a dropout rate that gets higher with each grade. As such, only a fraction of children who start primary school will make it all the way through to pass their final examinations.

Interestingly, girls have always outnumbered boys in Lesotho’s classrooms. This is not because girls are cleverer (although they might think they are), but because, in the past, boys were required to undertake herding duty while the men were off working in South Africa. Recently, however, migrant work opportunities across the border have diminished and gangs of armed bandits have started stealing livestock. So adults are now reassuming their former herding responsibilities and the boys are returning to school. In 2004, there were more boys in primary school than there were girls, for the first time in 100 years.

Since education is recognized as one of the most important requirements for the future development of Lesotho, many international governments and aid agencies are trying to help the country maintain and improve its schooling infrastructure. In 2008, for example, the Japanese donated M43 million to build seven new primary schools in addition to the 17 others they had previously funded. The Chinese also donated two new secondary schools (to be built by a Chinese contractor) at a cost of M11 million. These facilities will each include six classrooms, a science lab, a computer and staff accommodation.

Economy

As you might expect from its small size and uncompromising landscape, Lesotho has a rather underdeveloped economy. Although accurate figures are hard to come by, the World Bank estimates that Lesotho’s 2007 GDP was just US$1.6 billion, with an annual per capita income of $800. This places the country in the bottom 15 to 20% in the global GDP rankings.

The GDP is derived from agriculture (about 12%), industry (47%) and services (41%). Inflation stands at around 6%, and the economy is growing at around 5% a year. In 2007, the country exported $800 millions’ worth of goods and imported $1.7 billion. Its principal exports are clothing and textiles, manufactured goods, machinery and other equipment. Principal imports include consumer and capital goods, food and fuel. The main export destinations are the USA, the Southern African Customs Union and the European Union. Imports come from the same regions, with the addition of Asia.

Lesotho’s natural resources are limited but there are diamonds in them thar hills, which have been intermittently exploited by large corporations as well as smaller cooperative miners for many years. Some of these diamond deposits have not been thoroughly investigated because they are very inaccessible, but the mining industry is now starting to gather momentum and there could be some major developments in the years ahead.

Fresh water (the so-called white gold) is another valuable natural asset, as the mountains catch a lot of rainfall which runs off the steep slopes and into swiftly-flowing rivers. The water is then collected in a series of large dams and exported to South Africa via long tunnels as part of the ambitious Lesotho Highlands Water Project. This scheme is a valuable income-generator for Lesotho, although the socio-environmental impact of the dams has been controversial.

When it comes to agriculture, mohair and wool are the two most important export commodities. In fact, the agricultural sector is currently the largest employer in Lesotho with about 85% of the resident workforce earning a living through the land. It’s a not a big money-spinner, however, as most pastoralists are involved in subsistence farming and the majority of those who keep livestock practise a semi-nomadic transhumance grazing system.

This means that the herders move from post to post with the seasons, using the land as part of a communal land tenure system which holds that all land belongs to the Basotho nation and is held in trust by the state. The local chiefs are thus responsible for administering the land in collaboration with Land Allocation Committees, which were established under the 1979 Land Act.

This arrangement essentially gives the chiefs the power to allocate or revoke access to arable and residential land in their area. And if a chief finds any unofficial livestock/people trespassing on his territory, it/they can be impounded or detained.

The strict management system is important because there isn’t much flat ground available, and pressure on the land in terms of food production is intense. To make matters worse, environmental degradation (especially in the form of erosion gullies caused by overgrazing) has made formerly productive farmlands unworkable.

So, although Lesotho was historically a major exporter of wheat and corn, the food security of the country is now precarious and, in times of drought, international food aid may be required to feed the population. The government and various international agencies are currently working to improve the situation by providing agricultural equipment to communities and encouraging improved farming techniques in terms of various range management and grazing control regulations.

Even so, there just isn’t enough farmland to go around, as only 10% of the total land area in Lesotho is suitable for cultivation (with just one percent of it under irrigation). Small-scale farming is therefore the order of the day and crop production is mainly for home consumption, with small surpluses being sold in the local markets. Commercial farming in the lowlands is established, but not extensive.

Two thirds of the land in Lesotho is suitable for grazing, however, and the national livestock inventory is estimated at 600,000 head of cattle; 1,620,000 sheep; 800,000 goats and 200,000 horses. While the latter are used mainly for transport, the other creatures are valued for their meat, hides or fleeces and, as such, are an important part of the rural economy.

Apart from agriculture, Lesotho’s other main source of employment is actually in South Africa, where a good chunk of the Basotho population travels to find work on the mines and farms. For over a century, this migrant labour system has been an integral part of Lesotho’s economy and, at times, involved more than 35% of its wage-earners and generated 65% of its GDP.

One of the most important labour recruiting companies is TEBA (The Employment Bureau of Africa), which has been active in Lesotho since 1911 under its previous names, the Native Recruiting Corporation and the Mine Labour Organization. TEBA’s distinctive blue-roofed buildings were once a significant feature of every district capital in Lesotho and the organization once boasted more than 160 offices across the subcontinent.

According to an old advertisement, this ubiquity allowed them to operate across many international boundaries, overcoming ethnic divisions and language barriers [to] keep one of the world’s great mining industries on the go.

Thus, at its height in the 1970s and 80s, it is estimated that about 250,000 Basotho migrant workers moved across the border every year and the money they brought home made up about 70% of the average rural household’s income.

Over the last 20 years, however, gold prices have dropped, mines have scaled back operations and permit restrictions have been tightened so that, by 2000, there were only about 50,000 Basotho mine workers registered in South Africa.

The retrenchment of so many breadwinners has had a serious impact on the Basotho family unit and has contributed to several socio-economic trends associated with unemployment, such as increased levels of crime, urbanization and domestic strife. Estimates of the current unemployment rate vary from 50 to 62%, but it is hoped that a long-term programme of economic reform, infrastructural development and industrialization will eventually create new jobs, thereby lessening the country’s dependence on international donors and on South Africa.

For the moment, however, Lesotho is very much reliant on its powerful neighbour for just about everything. Most of its consumer goods are imported from South Africa, many of the large businesses in Lesotho are South African-owned and the landlocked territory has to use South Africa’s ports and harbours for its exports.

Furthermore, 60% of Lesotho’s state budget comes from revenue generated by the Southern African Customs Union (SACU). This regional association collects import and excise duties which are then shared between the member states (including South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland, Botswana and Namibia).

Normally, when times are good, the SACU system works well enough and there is sufficient money to go around. However, the recent global economic downturn has seen customs revenues drop substantially and, since Lesotho doesn’t have a strong industrial base to make up the shortfall, the country is facing a major cash flow crisis. As it stands, South African taxpayers might have to step in to save Lesotho (and Swaziland) from economic collapse, but the SACU is currently in discussions aimed at trying to work out a more sustainable plan.

Meanwhile, Lesotho is busy trying to develop its own manufacturing base and several major Taiwanese and Chinese clothing companies have begun operating in the country under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). The Nien Hsing Denim Mill, for example, is the largest of its kind in Africa with some 500 Chinese staff as well as 3,000 Basotho employees. The company makes clothes for the global Levi and Gap brands (but don’t expect to find a factory outlet store in Maseru, as all the goods are sent directly to markets in North America).

The garment sector is thus becoming increasingly important as an employer, with an estimated 35,000 people on the payroll. However, there have been complaints about the low wages and poor working conditions at some of the factories; there was a recent outcry when one of the mills was accused of dumping toxic chemicals in a nearby river and leaving hazardous materials in a local landfill. Investigations by local authorities and international stakeholders are ongoing.

Additionally, the government has also been trying to bring new investors and expertise into the country by privatizing several state-owned enterprises, such as the national cannery, abattoir, feedlot, flour mill, brickmaker, dairy and other corporations. Most of these facilities were set up with the help of donor funds in the 1970s and 80s, but subsequently became liabilities as a result of mismanagement, corruption, political uncertainty, insolvencies, nepotism, competition from South African equivalents, and/or a plain lack of demand. Some of these businesses are now defunct; others are awaiting privatization and a few have been successfully resurrected under new managements.

Tourism is another potential economic growth area, and the country certainly has a lot to offer in this regard. The ailing pottery, weaving and associated craft industries would also get a boost from an improved tourism sector. But tourism currently makes up only a small percentage of the GDP, and the authorities are currently working to put the necessary marketing, packaging and infrastructure in place so that mass tourism can become a reality.

Finally, we must make mention of the highly functional informal economy that helps sustain many households. In addition to the dozens of vendors and hawkers you will see selling an assortment of goods on the sides of the roads, the informal sector also includes a home-based trade in traditional beer, meat, vegetables and other services.

Dubbed by some as the plastic bag economy, this commercial network uses a simple system of coloured flags (or plastic packets) that are hung on a pole outside a house to advertise what’s available within. For example, a yellow or white flag is for beer (either traditional or in bottles). Green is for vegetables or home-made wine. Red is for meat. And blue usually refers to some sort of church gathering or the presence of a sangoma (traditional healer) who is open for business.

Ministry of Trade and Industry Co-operatives and Marketing: www.trade.gov.ls

Ministry of Finance and Development Planning: www.finance.gov.ls

The Employment Bureau of Africa: www.teba.co.za

Government

Lesotho’s political history can be divided into several distinct phases. The first organized system of government was set up by King Moshoeshoe I between 1820 and 1868 when he installed his brothers, sons and male relatives as local chiefs across his new kingdom. With every new generation, however, the chiefs subdivided their land among their own sons until the proliferation of chiefs (each with his own tribal court) became unwieldy. Thus, in 1938, the colonial authorities drew up an official list delineating the wards and villages of roughly 500 chiefs and 630 headmen. Thereafter, all traditional positions became hereditary (usually passed down to the eldest son from the first marriage), and the chieftainship network was essentially locked in place.

Today, the system still functions as follows: each village headman (ramotse) is responsible to an area chief (morena) who in turn answers to a principal chief (morena oa sehloho). The principal chiefs answer to the paramount chief or king (morena e moholo), who holds court at Matsieng. But the system cuts both ways, and the 22 principal chiefs also serve on a body called the College of Chiefs, which is responsible for choosing a new king should the current ruler die or be forced to vacate the office. Of the 22 senior chiefs, about 19 are direct descendants of Moshoeshoe.

The chieftainship system has thus endured for well over a century. However, after the British took over in 1868, a new system was established in which white District Commissioners were installed in towns across the territory. Eventually, ten such district capitals were declared and they all reported to the colonial government’s headquarters in Maseru. A complimentary judicial network based on the Western legal system was set up to support the administrative functions of the colonial authorities.

Although the colonial authorities often clashed with their traditional counterparts, the parallel system of government managed to endure until the mid-20th century, when pro-democracy Basotho ‘commoners’ started agitating for a more representative form of government to replace the colonial commissioners. After some heated debate, a Constitutional Commission was created in the early 1960s and this paved the way for the first general elections in 1965, followed by independence from Britain in 1966.

Since gaining its independence, however, Lesotho has had a troubled political history characterized by a regrettable pattern of contested election results which led to riots, resignations and the formation of new political parties. Throw in several coups, a period of military rule and a couple of assassination attempts, and you’ve got a pretty good idea of the tragic state of the country’s politics over the last 50 years.

Thankfully, it seems that things have now settled down somewhat. The 2002 and 2007 general elections went off peacefully enough, and most stakeholders seem to have come to terms with the vicissitudes of democracy. It’s not all plain sailing however … a failed assassination attempt took place at the prime minister’s residence as recently as April 2009. But, barring the occasional gunfight, there is a growing hope that the bitter political rivalries which have impeded Lesotho’s democratic development in the past can finally be put aside so that the real business of government can begin—the people of Lesotho deserve no less.

So, if everything goes according to plan, how is the current system of government supposed to work? Well, as specified in the new constitution that was adopted in 1993 (and amended in 1996, 1997, 1998, 2001 and 2004), the country functions as a constitutional monarchy. This means that the king is, technically speaking, the head of state, and vested with executive authority. However, this power is exercised through the elected government, and the king is obliged to act on the advice of the Cabinet or the Council of State. In other words, it’s a largely ceremonial position and the king is meant to function mainly as a living symbol of national unity’ The current king is Letsie III, and his heir apparent (as ratified by the College of Chiefs) is his son, Lerotholi Seeiso.

Lesotho’s parliament is based on the Westminster system and is split into two houses. The upper house is called the Senate and consists of the 22 principal chiefs mentioned above plus 11 Senators who are nominated by the king on the advice of the Council of State (a group of key members from state structures).

The lower house, called the National Assembly, consists of 120 members. Of these, 80 are directly elected by constituencies in the general election (everyone over 18 has the vote, and general elections must be held at intervals of no more than five years). The other 40 seats are allocated to opposition parties through a system of proportional representation, so as to compensate parties for the discrepancy between percentage votes obtained and percentage of constituency seats won. By following this newly-developed mixed-member proportional system, opposition parties still get a voice in parliament which will (hopefully) circumvent the need for losing candidates to dispute every election result.

The elected government is headed by the prime minister, who is appointed by the king on the advice of the Council of State (although the prime minister must enjoy the support of the majority of the National Assembly). Cabinet ministers are then appointed from among members of Parliament by the king, acting on the advice of the prime minister. The current prime minister is Pakalitha Mosisili, who has held the position since 1998.

There are currently about 16 active political parties in Lesotho, several of which have formed coalitions. The most important are the ruling Lesotho Congress for Democracy (LCD), the All-Basotho Convention (ABC), the Basotho National Party (BNP), the Basutoland African Congress (BAC), the Popular Front for Democracy (PFD) and the once-mighty Basotho Congress Party (BCP).

In terms of local government, the country is divided into ten administrative districts—Berea, Butha-Buthe, Leribe, Mafeteng, Maseru, Mohale’s Hoek, Mokhotlong, Qacha’s Nek, Quthing, and Thaba-Tseka. Maseru is the capital city, and houses all the government headquarters as well as the parliament (a large new parliament building is currently under construction). Parliament may be visited on request, but men are asked to wear a jacket if parliament is in session and hats are not appropriate unless you are a security guard.

The judicial system consists of a Court of Appeal, a High Court and subordinate courts and tribunals. The Chief Justice of the High Court and the President of the Court of Appeal are appointed on the advice of the prime minister, while the judges of both courts are appointed on the advice of the Judicial Service Commission.

Finally, we should mention Lesotho’s security forces, as they have played a significant political role over the last few decades—alternately supporting and challenging the government of the day, depending on the circumstances at the time.

First, there is the Lesotho Defence Force (LDF) which is responsible for national security and the protection of the royal family. The LDF is about 2,500 strong and includes an army, an air force and a paramilitary wing. The LDF reports to the prime minister through the Ministry of Defence. Military service is not compulsory in Lesotho.

Then there is the Lesotho Mounted Police Service (LMPS), which is responsible for internal policing. It also has around 2,500 members, who report to the Minister of Home Affairs. In the past, the LDF and the LMPS have not always seen eye to eye; there have been occasions when they actively fought against one another.

Finally, there is a National Security Service which is responsible for that nebulous commodity called ‘intelligence’. The NSS is directly accountable to the prime minister.

www.lesotho.gov.ls

www.parliament.ls

www.eisa.org.za

HIV and AIDS

As is the case across sub-Saharan Africa, the HIV and AIDS pandemic has taken a heavy toll on Lesotho. Consequently, the population has stopped growing and every town has a substantial funeral parlour (usually a branch of Lesotho Funeral Services).

But how bad is it really? Well, according to UNAIDS, 23.2% of the country’s population was HIV positive in 2005. Other sources, such as Lesotho’s Ministry of Health and Social Welfare, have given estimates as high as 30%. This means that Lesotho could have more than 500,000 people living with HIV and AIDS, including around 16,000 kids under the age of fourteen. Furthermore, the disease has orphaned as many as 100,000 children (20% of the total).

The first case of AIDS in Lesotho was reported in 1986 and, to their credit, the government was quick to act. Accordingly, the Ministry of Health launched the National AIDS Prevention and Control Programme in 1987. But the disease continued to spread rapidly and, by the late 1990s, the government realized that it needed a multi-sectoral response to combat the disease. So the Lesotho AIDS Programme Coordinating Authority (LAPCA) was established, and a National HIV and AIDS Policy and Strategic Plan drawn up.

Unfortunately LAPCA was not entirely successful in fulfilling its mandate, and it was scrapped in 2005. In its place, a more efficient National AIDS Commission (NAC) was established in line with the UN-sponsored ‘three ones’ principle (one coordinating body, one strategic plan and one monitoring and evaluation system).

The NAC has now generated a new National HIV and AIDS Policy document together with three documents linked to the policy: the National HIV & AIDS Strategic Plan (2006-2011), the National HIV and AIDS Monitoring and Evaluation Plan (2006-2011) and the Coordination Framework for the National Response to HIV and AIDS.

As they say in their documentation: The overall goal of this policy framework is to enable government to effectively fight the HIV and AIDS epidemic: to prevent the further spread of the epidemic, provide treatment, care and support services, and to mitigate the impact of HIV and AIDS on individuals, families and communities.

Nevertheless, the Lesotho HIV rate is said to be the third highest in the world, beaten only by Swaziland and Botswana. This has impacted heavily on the country’s socio-economic development and overburdened the healthcare system. Nevertheless, with the help of the NAC and a number of international donor organizations, it is hoped that the effects of the pandemic can be managed and the spread of the disease halted.

Lesotho Ministry of Health and Social Welfare: www.health.gov.ls

Environment

At first glance, the beautiful mountains and valleys of Lesotho seem to be in pretty good shape—almost pristine, with no fences to spoil the view. But look a little closer and you’ll see that this is sadly not the case. The delicate montane environment has been heavily affected by human development and much of the indigenous flora and fauna is under threat.

Lesotho’s biggest environmental challenge is the erosion which has effectively destroyed much of its ecological integrity. The most noticeable manifestation of this degradation can be seen in the once-fertile fields that are now criss-crossed by steep erosion gullies (or dongas, in the vernacular). There are a number of reasons for this rampant erosion, including over-grazing, over-population, poor farming techniques and badly planned irrigation channels that have increased run-off and stripped away the topsoil.

In addition to poor agricultural management, there are also several examples of inadequate environmental management in relation to alien invasive plants, overhunting, uncontrolled urban development and generally unsustainable behaviour. The decentralized communal land-tenure system (which grants every citizen the constitutional right of access to land, water, pasture and wildlife) also makes it difficult to control overstocking and overgrazing.

None of this is news, however, and commentators have been making remarks about the erosion problem for well over 80 years. By the middle of the last century, the growing concern over Lesotho’s environment had coalesced into the original Game Preservation Proclamation of 1951 and the Historical Monuments, Relics, Fauna and Flora Act of 1967. Although well-intentioned, it was a case of ‘too little, too late’ as much of Lesotho’s landscape and fauna had already been irreparably damaged by the time the laws were promulgated. And even then, the country was struggling with a mountain of political challenges that pushed environmental issues way to the back.

Recently, however, the government has stabilized and there has been a serious attempt to improve the protection of the country’s natural assets. This is because the authorities have realized the fragile mountain ecosystem is in urgent need of preservation, and that environmental integrity and tourism are two sides of the same valuable coin.

As such, the old legislation has been superseded by the Environment Act of 2001 (which is currently under revision). A draft of a new Nature Conservation Act has also been drawn up, and there are plans to establish a re-structured Department of Environment (which will include a Nature Conservation Division and an Advisory Board).

Other national policies and strategies relating to the environment include: the Action Plan to Implement Agenda 21, the National Environmental Action Plan (1989), the National Environmental Policy (1996), the National Strategy on Lesotho’s Biological Diversity: Conservation and Sustainable Use (2000), the National Livestock and Range Management Policy (1996) and the ambitious all-encompassing policy document known as ‘Vision 2020’.

In all cases, environmental management in Lesotho is now going to be based on a collaborative approach in which local communities play a pivotal role in the conservation and management of their natural resources. Community Conservation Forums are thus being set up in locations where there is potential for environmental protection and/or tourism. By giving local inhabitants a stake in conservation initiatives, it is hoped that the amount of land under protection will increase, with positive results for all.

And Lesotho is serious about protecting the environment. In addition to all its own policy documents, it is also a signatory to the following international conventions and policies: the United Nations Conference on Environment and Development (Agenda 21), the Global Environment Facility Operational Strategy for Biodiversity and the RAMSAR Convention relating to wetland preservation.

Furthermore, one of the most exciting international projects is the recent signing of a memorandum of understanding with South Africa to establish a vast Maloti/ Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation Area that will protect a dramatic stretch of mountain land along the eastern border.

This new-found commitment to environmental preservation is most welcome in a country where only 14,000ha (0.42% of the country’s land surface) is currently under protection. Existing reserves include the Sehlabathebe National Park (6,475ha), Ts’ehlanyane National Park (5,333ha), Bokong Nature Reserve (1,972ha) and the Masitisi Nature Reserve (180ha). There is also the Liphofung Natural Monument and Muela Enviro Park (two small protected areas measuring several hectares each) as well as a Botanical Gardens and indigenous nursery at Katse. Thankfully, the authorities are currently planning to expand some of the existing conservation areas and several additional protection-worthy locations have been identified with an eye to having them declared reserves in the future.

So, Lesotho’s unique landscape and plant life is finally getting the attention it deserves. However, the outlook isn’t so rosy for the kingdom’s wildlife. Most of the indigenous large game has been hunted into local extinction or displaced by domesticated animals. Today, the only mammals that remain are rodents, small antelope and a couple of diminutive cat species. On the upside, the South African National Parks organization is slowly helping to restock Lesotho’s conservation areas with larger game (mainly ruminants), and this programme might be expanded once the reserves have grown large enough to sustain a more diverse animal population.

Insects and reptiles are well represented, however, and the birding remains very good, especially in the alpine areas.

Flora and fauna

Lesotho can be divided into four agro-ecological zones. The western Lowlands lie at altitudes between 1,500m and 1,830m, occupying about 15% of the land. The Foothills run from north to south down the middle of the country, lying between 1,830m and 2,130m and covering about 8% of the land. The broad Orange River Valley curves its way from the northeast to the southwest, lying between 1,500m and 2,250m and occupying about 11% of the country. And the mountains of the eastern Highlands lie between 2,130m and 3,480m, occupying about 66% of the total land area.