Lonely Planet Slovenia

By Mark Baker

Lonely Planet’s Slovenia is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Discover buzzy Ljubljana, dip a toe in the electric-blue water of Lake Bled, be stunned by natural beauty; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Slovenia and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Slovenia Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of [destination’s] best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 44 maps 

Covers Ljubljana, Skofja Loka, Lake Bled, Bohinj, Kranjska Gora, Triglav National Park, Soca Valley, Vipava Valley, Lipica, Piran, Postojna, Rogaska Slatina, Prekmurje and more

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Slovenia, our most comprehensive guide to Slovenia, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Oct 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781837580392

Mark Baker

Mark Baker has been a test engineer for such companies as Spectra-Physics, Zilog, Pragmatic Test Systems, Schlumberger, Teradyne, and EPRO. In 1997, he founded his own company, TechniCom, which was devoted to technical training courses and seminars; one of their courses was on mixed-signal testing. In the fall of 2001, TechniCom was acquired by Texas Instruments and Baker is now a technical training manager for TI. Baker has published numerous in-house application articles for the ATE companies Teradyne and Schlumberger as well as articles in Electronics Test and Evaluation Engineering magazines.

Book preview

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Slovenia

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Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Slovenia

Slovenia’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Outdoor Slovenia

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Ljubljana

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Lake Bled & the Julian Alps

Škofja Loka

Radovljica

Lake Bled

Walking Tour: Summiting Mt Triglav from Lake Bled

Lake Bohinj

Walking Tour: Summiting Mt Triglav from Lake Bohinj

Triglav National Park

Kranjska Gora

Vršič Pass

Soča Valley

Bovec

Kobarid

Central Primorska

Idrija

Cerkno

Southwestern Slovenia

Slovenian Karst

Postojna

The Green Karst

Walking Tour: Bloke Plateau

Škocjan Caves

Lipica

Western Wine Regions

Vipava Valley

Goriška Brda

Slovenian Coast

Koper

Izola

Piran

Portorož

Sečovlje

Southeastern Slovenia & the Krka Valley

Dolenjska

Ribnica & Around

Žužemberk

Dolenjske Toplice

Novo Mesto

Otočec & Around

Bela Krajina

Metlika

Črnomelj

Kolpa Valley

Posavje

Kostanjevica na Krki

Brežice

Bizeljsko-Sremič Wine District

Eastern Slovenia

Kamnik-Savinja Alps

Kamnik

Kamniška Bistrica & Velika Planina

Upper Savinja Valley

Celje

Kozjansko Region

Podčetrtek

Rogaška Slatina

Ptuj

Walking Tour: Ptuj’s Old Town Heritage

Around Ptuj

Maribor

Pohorje Massif

Maribor Pohorje

Rogla & Zreče Pohorje

Koroška

Slovenj Gradec & Around

Prekmurje

Murska Sobota & Around

Moravske Toplice

Spas & Thermal Resorts

Exploring Slovenia’s Wineries

UNDERSTAND

History

Slovenian Way of Life

The Arts

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Bargaining

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Emergencies

Food

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitchhiking

Train

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Slovenia

The first time I drove through the Julian Alps, I thought I’d arrived in heaven. The Soča River seemed a purer shade of turquoise, and the mountain valleys seemed deeper and quieter and more beautiful than anywhere I’d ever been. Over the years that followed, I’ve watched bears in the southwestern forests and marvelled at the Church of the Holy Trinity in Hrastovlje. I’ve eaten žlikrofi in Idrija and seafood by the sea in perfect Piran. At each step, my love affair with the country has deepened, and there’s never any place I’d rather be.

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Velika Planina | ANZE URBANIJA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Anthony Ham, Writer

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png @AnthonyHamWrite png anthonyham2002

For more about our writers.

Slovenia’s Top Experiences

1SLOVENIA’S ALPS

In Slovenia’s northwest you’ll find one of Europe’s least-known, yet most beautiful mountain ranges. The Julian Alps are a glorious world of snow-capped mountains, pristine mountain streams and pretty villages. Slovenia’s highest summit, stirring mountain passes connected by sinuous roads and hiking trails, and Lake Bled, one of Europe’s most picturesque lakes: these are the highlights but there’s so much more to enjoy while you’re here.

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Lake Bled | NATALIA DERIABINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Climbing Mt Triglav

Triglav is a challenging but accessible peak that just about anyone in decent shape can conquer with an experienced guide. There are several popular approaches, but whichever path you choose, the reward is the same: sheer exhilaration.

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Climbers on Mt Triglav | DEJAN_K/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Crossing the Vršič Pass

Make your way by car or by bike across this breathtakingly scenic Alpine pass that zigs and zags through peaks and promontories. This summer-only roadway links Kranjska Gora with Bovec and includes a number of photo-op rest stops and several mountain huts along the way.

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Cycling the Vršič Pass | FLYSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lake Bled

With its sky-blue lake, picture-postcard church on a tiny island, a medieval castle clinging to a rocky cliff and some of the country’s highest peaks as backdrops, Bled seems to have been designed by the very god of tourism.

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Bled Island | ZM_PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2BEAUTIFUL TOWNS

All across Slovenia, the country’s urban spaces are places of quiet and elegant beauty. From the magnificence of Ljubljana to the intimate labyrinth of Ptuj or the echoes of Venice in Piran, Slovenia’s towns combine historic architecture with the sedate charms of urban Slovenian life. They’re the perfect counterpoint to the irresistible natural beauty that surrounds the cities and towns.

Piran

Venice in Slovenia? Slovenia was lucky to end up with one of the best-preserved medieval Venetian ports anywhere. Enjoy fresh fish on the harbour, then wander the narrow streets and end up people-watching and sipping on drinks in a glorious central square.

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Piran | TRAVELLAGGIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ptuj

Ptuj is one of Slovenia’s richest historical towns. Over the centuries everyone since the Romans has left their mark here, and the centre is still a maze of red roofs and medieval streets, dotted with churches, towers and museums, as well as street cafes to enjoy the passing scenes.

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Ptuj | HBPRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ljubljana

Slovenia’s capital city effortlessly achieves that perfect pitch between size and quality of life. No place in Slovenia waltzes through architecture so adroitly as does the capital, from its ancient hilltop castle to splendid art nouveau buildings.

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Ljubljana | KASTO80/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

3GETTING ACTIVE

Slovenia is such a beautiful place that just begs to be explored outdoors. Hurtle down a river, stalk bears through quiet forests and hike through glorious mountains by all means. But caving, canyoning, mountain biking and skiing are also a part of the mix in the country that combines a perfect backdrop with professional operators and a local population that loves to explore.

Adrenaline on the Soča

Rarely does a river beckon to be rafted as convincingly as does Slovenia’s sky-blue-and-turquoise Soča. Even if you’re not the rafting type, you’ll soon find yourself strapping on a wetsuit for that exhilarating ride of the summer.

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Rafting on the Soča River | BORCHEE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Look for Bears

The Green Karst region in southwestern Slovenia, particularly the Lož Valley, is one of the best places on the continent to spot brown bears. Several outfitters can help you observe the animals in their natural habitats from April to September.

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Brown bear | GORAN_SAFAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hiking the High Country

Hiking is a national pastime. Possibilities can seem endless, but might include anything from the Soča Trail (25km) or Parenzana Trail (30km) all the way up to the multi-day epic of the Slovenian Mountain Trail (500km). Whichever you choose, some astonishing views await.

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Hiking along the Soča River | ABABSOLUTUM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

4CASTLES & CAVES

Slovenia is over-endowed in castles and caves and going from one to the next is a wonderful way to plan your trip through the country. For example, the cave system at Postojna is Slovenia’s biggest subterranean attraction by far, while Predjama and Škocjan are also extraordinary examples of the genre. That said, there are plenty of other examples sprinkled around the country.

Postojna Cave

The caverns here are a seemingly endless parade of crystal fancies – from frilly chandeliers and dripping spaghetti-like stalactites to paper-thin sheets and stupendous stalagmites, all laid down over the centuries by the simple dripping of mineral-rich water.

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Postojna Cave | ALEXANDER PINK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Predjama Castle

Predjama ticks both boxes and is an unusual example of a castle inside a cave. Few fortresses have a setting as grand as this, wedged halfway up a cliff face at the foot of the valley.

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Predjama Castle | EGERIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Škocjan Caves

Where Postojna Cave is entirely baroque, the caves at Škocjan are positively Gothic. Visiting the caves is a truly awesome experience.

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Škocjan Caves | GEZA KURKA PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5INDULGE YOURSELF

Slovenia has been pampering its visitors for centuries, and it can now be a centrepiece of any visit to the country. The healing waters of thermal spas have long been a thing here, but the accommodation on offer can also open the door to some serious indulgence, from the perspective of both service and luxury experiences in boutique hotels, castles and other artfully converted historic spaces.

Traditional Spas

Slovenia’s natural and thermal spas combine beautiful architecture with a wealth of high-quality wellness and beauty treatments, including massage, mud baths, saunas, warm sea-water baths and more. Dolenjske Toplice is a fine spot to take the waters.

Rustic Glam Accommodation

Unique sleeps are springing up in scenic Slovenian locales; some are heavy on the clever camping element (sleeping in ‘pods’ in Bela Krajina) while others emphasise the glamour.

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Adrenaline Check Eco Place | PAUL PRESCOTT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

High-class Hotels

Slovenia has so many luxury places to sleep, from Hotel Kendov Dvorec, a charming ‘castle hotel’, to Dobra Vila, a stunning boutique option in a 1930s-era building.

Top Experiences

6TRADITIONAL CULTURE

Slovenia may be a proudly modern country, but cultural and religious traditions run deep. In urban areas, it’s more likely to be expressed in festivals tuned to the Christian calendar. Out in rural areas, it’s more a part of daily life, although they have plenty of festivals as well. It’s also expressed in ancient signposts to a more traditional past.

Hrastovlje

Hrastovlje’s tiny Church of the Holy Trinity is renowned for its jaw-dropping fresco, the Dance of Death or Danse Macabre. It’s an extraordinary landmark to the historical hold of Christianity over the countryside.

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Dance of Death fresco | KASTO80/GETTY IMAGES ©

Lent Celebrations

Lent is a time for celebration across Slovenia, and the best-known festivities are Kurentovanje, a rite-of-spring party in Ptuj in the days leading up to Shrove Tuesday and the start of Lent.

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Kurentovanje festivities | SVETLANA KURAPOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Folklore Festivals

Slovenes love to let their hair down at centuries-old folklore festivals. Jurjevanje in Črnomelj in June celebrates an ancient Slavic deity called Green George and is Slovenia’s oldest international folklore festival.

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Kurentovanje festivities | XSEON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

7CULINARY EXCELLENCE

Slovenia is an emerging culinary destination, a place where local ingredients and traditional dishes and recipes can be at the heart of eating out. Sometimes, as in Idrija, it’s about a dish that’s particular to a special region. In the case of Hiša Franko, it’s about bringing high-quality cooking to a range of local dishes. And Slovenia is also increasingly known for its excellent wines.

Hiša Franko

Widely recognised as one of Slovenia’s best restaurants, Hiša Franko, near Kobarid, does innovative riffs on much-loved Slovenian dishes with a focus on local ingredients.

Vipava Valley Wines

The Vipava Valley stands out as one of Slovenia’s best wine-making regions. Wineries with some of the best merlots in the world? Check. The best air-dried pršut ham? Yep. Pick up some local fruits and olives and you’ve got a Slovenian picnic to remember.

Idrija Raviolis

Rather like small ravioli, Idrijski žlikrofi is made from egg-flour dough with a potato filling (with pork fat or lard, or smoked bacon, onion and herbs). They’re considered a national treasure.

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Idrijski žlikrofi | SOCHA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Euro (€)

Language

Slovene (slovenščina)

Visas

Generally not required for tourist stays up to 90 days (or at all for EU nationals); some nationalities will need an entry visa.

Money

ATMs are widely available or exchange money at banks. Credit and debit cards accepted by most businesses throughout the country.

Mobile Phones

Local SIM cards can be used in European, Australian and some American phones. Other phones must be set to roaming to work, but be wary of roaming charges.

Time

Central European Time (GMT/UTC plus one hour)

When to Go

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High Season (Jun–Aug)

A Mostly sunny skies with occasional rain.

A Crowds in Ljubljana and the coast; advance accommodation booking essential.

A Museums and other attractions open for business.

A Party atmosphere everywhere.

Shoulder (Apr, May, Sep & Oct)

A Sunny, dry September is a great time for climbing Mt Triglav.

A Lower tariffs are in effect at many hotels.

A Rafting is great by late May; swimming is over by September.

A Best overall time for hiking.

Low Season (Nov–Mar)

A Ski season runs from mid-December to March or even April.

A Christmas through New Year can be crowded.

A Attractions in smaller towns may close or have limited hours.

Useful Websites

Slovenian Tourist Board (www.slovenia.info) Info on every conceivable sight and activity.

Slovenia Times (www.sloveniatimes.com) Website of the independent quarterly magazine.

E-uprava (http://e-uprava.gov.si) Official info-packed government portal.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/slovenia) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than €60

A Hostel dorm bed or low-cost guesthouse: €15–25

A Street food and self-catering: €10

A Train/bus tickets: €10

A Bicycle rental: €12

A Pint of beer: €3

Midrange: €80–120

A Room in a midrange hotel or pension: €40–60

A Dinner in a good restaurant: €30

A Train/bus tickets: €10

A Lipica Stud Farm entry: €16

Top End: More than €120

A Room in the best place in town: €80–100

A Dinner in a very good restaurant: €40

A Train/bus/taxi: €20

A Postojna Cave entry: €26

Opening Hours

Opening hours can vary throughout the year. We’ve provided high-season opening hours.

Banks 8.30am–12.30pm and 2pm–5pm Monday to Friday

Bars 11am–midnight Sunday to Thursday, to 1am or 2am Friday and Saturday

Restaurants 11am–10pm daily

Shops 8am–7pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm Saturday

Arriving in Slovenia

Jože Pučnik Airport (Ljubljana) Buses (€4.10) run to Ljubljana’s main bus station hourly on weekdays (two hourly on weekends). Shuttle (€9) and taxi services (€35 to €40) will transfer you to the city centre in around half an hour.

Ljubljana train & bus stations Located next to each other 500m north of the Old Town and an easy walk away. Served by public buses 2, 5, 9, 12, 18, 25 and 27. Taxis within the city should cost no more than €8.

Getting Around

Transport in Slovenia is reasonably priced, quick and efficient. For national bus timetables, head to Avtobusna Postaja Ljubljana (www.ap-ljubljana.si); for train timetables: Slovenian Railways (www.slo-zeleznice.si).

Bus Generally efficient and good value but very crowded on Friday afternoons and severely restricted on Sundays and holidays.

Car A great way to explore the countryside, with rental firms everywhere.

Train Cheaper but usually slower than buses (with the exception of intercity high-speed services). Getting from A to B sometimes requires returning to Ljubljana.

For much more on getting around.

What’s New

Slovenia is the kind of place that taps into the post-pandemic zeitgeist of people longing for small crowds, stirring natural beauty, and local culinary and cultural experiences. Put all of that together with the country’s talent for quiet reinvention, and you have one of Europe’s truly emerging destinations.

Eat ‘Local’

When it comes to food, Slovenia has remarkable regional diversity, and restaurants everywhere put the emphasis on using local ingredients. Kobarid’s Hiša Franko sets the gold standard of a countrywide trend. The restrictions on international travel during the pandemic only increased the obsession among locals with discovering local culinary traditions in their own country. In Idrija, for example, žlikrofi is more popular than ever, and not just with the townsfolk who’ve always known what a great dish this is.

Wine Roads

Slovenia is an ideal destination for pairing winery visits with hikes and cycling trips, and all the main wine-making areas now have dedicated ‘wine routes’. Goriška Brda features many small, family-owned wineries. It’s such a little-known wine-making destination beyond Slovenia’s shores that each of the three main wine regions – Podravje, Posavje and Primorska – are fantastic places for wine-lovers to explore.

Sustainability

A buzzword everywhere, a mantra in Slovenia. The commitment extends to food at amazing Monstera Bistro, which employs minimal-waste, whole-animal practices, but the very idea of sustainability extends deep into every aspect of Slovenian life. In the open air around Bled, electric-powered bicycles make climbs accessible to people of all fitness levels. 3glav Adventures can lead a tour.

Ziplines

Move over canyoning, ziplines are the hot new adventure sport. The combination of steep valleys, professional local operators, and smaller-than-pre-pandemic crowds make Slovenia one of Europe’s best ziplining destinations. The Planica Zipline glides over the towering ski-jump centre near Kranjska Gora, while the Zipline Dolinka takes you through a harrowing valley.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN SLOVENIA

Anthony Ham, Lonely Planet writer

Prior to the pandemic, Slovenia was one of the fastest-growing tourist destinations in Europe and there are signs that this trend will continue. Managing such growth as tourism returns while maintaining a commitment to sustainability is one of the greatest challenges facing the country. Many Slovenians also consider the next national elections – which are due in mid-2022 – to be critical in determining the country’s path forward. Will anti-immigrant sentiments, so strong immediately after 2015 and 2016, when half a million refugees travelled through the country on their way north, play or a role? Or will the vote be spread widely enough across the political parties to ensure that Slovenia’s famed consensus politics keeps radical agendas of any political stripe at bay? Most Slovenians hope for the latter.

Bear Watching

As Europe emerges from the confinements of lockdowns and restrictions on travel, wildlife-watching and getting back to nature is all the rage. Slovenia has one of the continent’s largest and most accessible brown bear populations, and the Green Karst has emerged as one of Europe’s best wildlife-watching opportunities. The number of operators offering bear-watching tours is expanding with each passing year.

For the Love of Beer

Slovenes have embraced the mania for hoppy, fruity IPAs with the same zest they have for buckwheat groats. Find craft beers in bars everywhere. Big names include Human Fish, Pelicon and Bevog. And on the off chance you haven’t tapped into Slovenia’s love affair with beer, make the hop over to Žalec to sip from the Green Gold Beer Fountain, the world’s first fountain given over, yep, to beer.

History Made New

Despite a long and fascinating history, Slovenia does anything but live in the past: all across the country, new historical discoveries and refreshing repackaging of old stories are helping visitors to experience anew Slovenia’s history. The discovery of an intact Roman villa and surviving frescoes in the cellar of the Celje Regional Museum is one of the most exciting archaeological finds in years. And the historic core of the overlooked industrial city of Kranj, in the Julian Alps, has gotten a makeover and the opening of happening galleries like Layerjeva hiša (www.layer.si) lends a trendy gloss.

Chocolate Village by the River

Opened in November 2020, the Chocolate Village by the River (www.chocolatevillage.eu) is a self-proclaimed glamping resort with boutique cabins along the Drava River. Best of all, the village sits alongside the Teta Frida chocolate factory, which uses sustainably sourced cocoa from West Africa, and where you can join chocolate workshops or overindulge in the chocolate cafe. It’s just west of Maribor in northeastern Slovenia.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/slovenia.

Slovenian Tourist Board (www.slovenia.info) Info on every conceivable sight and activity.

Slovenia Times (www.sloveniatimes.com) Website of the independent quarterly magazine.

E-uprava (http://e-uprava.gov.si) Official government portal packed with practical information.

Let’s Go Slovenia (www.letsgoslovenia.si) Beautiful, inspirational, comprehensive travel blog on Slovenia.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Eating local

Number of brown bears Around 1000

Proportion of country protected by nature parks: 12.5%

Population 2.1 million

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Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Kurentovanje, February

Lent Festival, June

Ljubljana Festival, July to August

Festival Radovljica, August

Cows’ Ball, September

January

This is for the most part a quiet month after the holidays, though skiing is generally very good and it’s the time of one of the most important sport events in the year.

3 Women’s World Cup Slalom & Giant Slalom Competition

One of the world’s major international ski events held only for women – the coveted Zlata Lisica (Golden Fox) trophy – takes place on the Maribor Pohorje ski grounds for four days in late January/early February.

February

A cold and snowy month keeps things busy on the ski slopes near Kranjska Gora. Many of the country’s best festivals are connected to Shrove Tuesday and Lent (February and early March) in the run-up to Easter.

z Kurentovanje

Ptuj marks Shrovetide with Kurentovanje, a rite of spring and fertility. Festivities are spread over 11 days in February, culminating in the Kurent parades on the weekend before Shrove Tuesday.

z Laufarija

A folkloric pre-Lenten carnival in Cerkno on the Sunday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. This ancient carnival sees masked participants chasing and executing the Pust, representing winter and the old year.

March

Still plenty of good skiing in the higher elevations; elsewhere the country is relatively quiet.

3 Men’s Slalom & Giant Slalom Vitranc Cup Competition

The number-one downhill ski event of the year – the Vitranc Cup – takes place at Kranjska Gora in early March.

April

Flowers bloom and trees blossom in lower elevations. Depending on the winter, there’s skiing at higher elevations. The Vršič Pass opens to cars by late April.

z Spring Horticultural Fair, Volčji Potok

Slovenia’s largest flower and gardening show takes place at an arboretum in Volčji Potok, near Kamnik, in late April.

May

Hit the Alpine valleys for a breakout of mountain wildflowers. Expect sunshine and warm daytime temperatures. It’s too cold yet to swim in the Adriatic, but days are ideal for a portside promenade.

z International Wildflower Festival

Held over two weeks, this flower fest celebrates Bohinj’s botanical riches and includes guided walks and tours and birdwatching.

June

June can be gloriously sunny or occasionally rainy. It’s the best month for white-water rafting, as rivers swell after the spring thaw and temps warm up enough to make the idea palatable.

z Idrija Lace Festival

This celebration of all things lacy includes a gala opening, and lace-making exhibitions, as well as live music.

z Lent Festival

A two-week extravaganza of folklore and culture in Maribor’s Old Town.

July

Mostly warm and sunny, July is a big month for festivals. Nearly every village and town has something going on. Trekkers, watch out for freak storms in higher elevations.

z Festival Bled

A fortnight of concerts (primarily classical, but also jazz and other genres) in beautiful venues around Lake Bled.

z Ljubljana Festival

The nation’s premier festival of classical entertainment (music, theatre and dance) held in July and August.

August

The traditional summer holiday month for Europeans finds resorts like Piran and Portorož filled to the brim. Campgrounds are packed, and the waters of Lakes Bohinj and Bled warm up enough to swim.

z Festival Radovljica

One of the most important festivals of early classical music in Europe is staged over two weeks in August.

z Pisana Loka

This arts festival (the name means ‘Colourful Loka’) stages music and theatre, film and children’s events over 10 days in late August.

September

Autumn chill comes to the mountains. Swimming winds down on the Adriatic coast and resorts like Bled and Bohinj hold their last big shindigs. Mushroom-hunting shifts into high gear.

z Cows’ Ball

Zany weekend of folk dance, music, eating and drinking in Bohinj to mark the return of the cows from their high pastures in mid-September.

z Slovenian Film Festival

A pivotal event in the Slovenian cinema world, this three-day festival in Portorož in late September sees screenings and awards.

October

Coastal areas quiet down and the action shifts to cities like Ljubljana, where the cultural season is in full swing.

z City of Women

Ljubljana’s 10-day international festival, Mesto Žensk, focusing on contemporary arts and culture created by women.

November

The solemn holiday of All Saints’ Day (1 November) sets the tone for the rest of this grey, chilly month. On this day, Slovenes bring candles and red lanterns to the cemetery to remember the departed.

z St Martin’s Day

Nationwide celebration to mark the day (11 November) when mošt (must; fermenting grape juice) officially becomes new wine.

December

Christmas (25 December) is the high point. Ski season starts.

3 Christmas Concerts

Held throughout Slovenia; the most famous are in Postojna Cave, where you can also attend the Live Christmas Crib, a re-enactment of the Nativity.

Itineraries

Essential Slovenia

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1 WEEK

This route is ideal for first-time visitors wanting to experience the highlights of the Alpine and coastal regions.

Begin in the capital, Ljubljana, allowing at least two nights for the sights, restaurants and beautiful riverside setting. Next, head north to Lake Bled, overnighting to allow time for lakeside ambles and taking a pletna (gondola) to Bled Island. Lake Bohinj, 26km southwest of Lake Bled, makes for a more rustic base and has views to Mt Triglav.

From here, travel northward to Kranjska Gora, the skiing capital and a good hiking base. It’s the northern terminus of the spectacular Vršič Pass, a high-altitude roadway (open May to October) that zigzags for 50km down to the white-water rafting capital of Bovec. The next day continue on to the amazing cave at Postojna. An easy side trip is Predjama, where an impregnable castle in a cliffside cave defies description.

You’re close to the coastal resorts of Piran and Portorož. For romance, choose Piran; for sun and fun, Portorož.

Itineraries

Slovenia in Depth

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2 WEEKS

With two weeks to explore Slovenia, you’ll be able to experience the best of the country’s mountains and coast, plus get a good look at the country’s untrampled east.

Allow a couple of nights in Ljubljana, then head north, stopping at one or both of the historic towns of Škofja Loka or Radovljica, to Lake Bled. Overnight and explore the lake and Bled Island, or stay a bit longer for adventure, such as rafting or canyoning. To the southwest, picturesque Lake Bohinj is an excellent base for exploring Triglav National Park or even climbing Mt Triglav itself.

Next head north to ski-capital Kranjska Gora to start your climb up and then down to the Soča Valley via the Vršič Pass. After 50km of hairpin turns you’ll arrive at the country’s white-water rafting capital of Bovec. Overnight here – especially if you plan to do any adventure sports – or in nearby Kobarid, a pretty town with a Mediterranean feel, an amazing WWI history and some of Slovenia’s best restaurants.

Continue southward through Nova Gorica to the Vipava Valley and on to the Karst region. Little towns here, like Štanjel to the west, are rich in olives, ruby-red Teran wine, pršut (dry-cured ham) and red-tiled roofs.

Further south, following the main Hwy E70 to the coast near Divača, is the awe-inspiring Škocjan Caves, part of an immense system of limestone caves. From here, go coastal. Piran is the most romantic spot on the Adriatic, but Izola has some good food and Portorož can be more fun. Nearby is Sečovlje and its famous salt pans.

The return journey to Ljubljana passes through Postojna, another amazing cave, with a side trip to Predjama Castle. Avoid the capital altogether and continue driving along Hwy E57 to Celje, stopping to visit the awesome Roman necropolis at Šempeter. Celje is worth an afternoon for its wonderful castle and rich museums, but Maribor, Slovenia’s second-largest city and regional centre, awaits. The surrounding highlands, the Maribor Pohorje, rate a look, but by now you might just want to spend some downtime along the Drava in Maribor’s atmospheric Lent district.

Finish your journey in Ptuj, a charming town with a delightful castle and some excellent accommodation.

Itineraries

Mountain Majesty

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1 WEEK

What Slovenia has in spades is mountains. Active travellers can head for the hills near Kamnik, climb the dizzying heights of the Julian Alps and then descend into the adventure land of the Soča Valley.

Begin in Ljubljana, to stock up on hiking gear and regional maps, then make your way to Kamnik and the picturesque, high-altitude pastureland of Velika Planina. Heading back towards Kranj, continue north to impossibly cute Radovljica. Overnight here or a few kilometres north at Lake Bled.

Use Bled or nearby Lake Bohinj for forays into Triglav National Park. Both are popular approaches for scaling Mt Triglav. Proceed northward to Kranjska Gora and the heart-stopping Vršič Pass (closed in winter). The road down deposits you in the Soča Valley. Following the Soča River will bring you to the activities centre of Bovec and the WWI battlegrounds around Kobarid. From here, head through Tolmin to the sleepy town of Cerkno, famous for its pre-Lenten carnival. Route 210 is a sinuous mountain road through the Škofja Loka Hills, a region of steep slopes, valleys and ravines, to the charming town of Škofja Loka and back to Ljubljana.

Itineraries

Wine & Spas

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1 WEEK

Eastern and southern Slovenia are known for both their wines and spas. This tour includes the best of each.

From Ljubljana drive southeast to the delightful spa town of Dolenjske Toplice. Otočec and its stunning castle is not far away. Further east, Brežice draws visitors to its Terme Čatež spa complex and the wonderful Bizeljsko-Sremič wine district, known for its medium-dry whites and reds and for repnice – caves for storing wine.

Head north on route 219 to Podčetrtek and another inviting spa, Terme Olimia. From here it’s a short distance through the Haloze Hills to atmospheric Rogaška Slatina, Slovenia’s oldest and largest spa, a veritable ‘cure factory’ with a dozen hotels and far more treatments.

Head north to the charming town of Ptuj and its nearby Terme Ptuj spa, then go east to Ormož for the Jeruzalem-Ljutomer district, home to some of the country’s best whites. Walk or hike the wine trail here.

The region’s biggest city and cultural hub, Maribor, is not very far away. Who could possibly resist seeing the world’s oldest (and still productive) grapevine dating back more than three centuries?

Plan Your Trip

Outdoor Slovenia

Slovenia is blessed with a magnificent natural environment of mountains, lakes and rivers that lend a breathtaking backdrop to any activity. Popular pursuits include hiking, skiing and mountain biking, but there’s also a world of more intrepid activities – from white-water rafting and caving to horse riding and canyoning.

The Best …

Hiking & Climbing

Triglav National Park While the entire country is criss-crossed by trails, Slovenia’s national park is the undisputed centre of hiking and climbing. There are trails to suit all levels of ability.

Skiing

Kranjska Gora While the slopes are suited mainly to beginners and intermediates, this is Slovenia’s best-known and most popular ski resort, easily accessible from western and northern Europe.

Cycling

Lake Bohinj The villages to the north of Lake Bohinj are ideal for exploring on a leisurely ride, and the higher-altitude terrain nearby offers opportunities for cyclists seeking adrenaline.

Kayaking & Rafting

Bovec The Soča River, with its flow, froth and green colour, seems designed by nature to offer rafting experiences that excite the body and the senses.

Caves

Škocjan Caves For many travellers the sight of these immense and dramatic caverns is the highlight of their trip.

Hiking & Walking

Hiking is a national pastime. The country has an excellent system of well-marked trails that run to a total length of more than 9000km. Most trails are marked by a red circle with a white centre, with periodic updater signs along the way indicating distances and walking times. In addition, most regional tourist offices and bookshops stock a comprehensive selection of hiking maps.

The most popular areas for hikes include the Julian Alps and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps in the northwest, as well as the Pohorje Massif in the northeast, but there are wonderful trails in all of the country’s regions. Some of the best of these are linked with less obviously salubrious activities, such as wine tasting.

Many trails can also be cycled, with the notable exception being most of the trails in Triglav National Park.

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Rafting on the Soča River | PECOLD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Great Slovenian Hikes

Slovenian Mountain Trail This trail runs for 500km from Maribor to Ankaran on the coast via the Pohorje Massif, the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, the Julian Alps, and the Cerkno and Idrija Hills. It was opened back in 1953 and was the first such national trail in Europe.

Walk of Peace (Pot Miru; www.potmiru.si) This 320km-long route connects the outdoor museums and the most important remains and memorials of the Isonzo Front of the Upper Soča Region.

Sub-Alpine Trail (Predalpska pot) This 470km-long trail covers Slovenia’s hill country – from Cerkno and Idrija to Posavje via the Karst – and is for less-ambitious, but equally keen, walkers and hikers.

Jeruzalem-Ljutomer wine road A great vinska cesta (wine road) in eastern Slovenia, this route begins at Ormož and continues for 18km north to Ljutomer, via the beautiful hilltop village of Jeruzalem. There are many wine cellars along the way, and it can also be biked.

Haloze Mountain Path This lovely wine-oriented 12km-long footpath takes in the gentle landscape of the Haloze Hills wine region. It is accessible from near Štatenberg.

Major European Trails

E6 European Hiking Trail This 350km trail runs from the Baltic to the Adriatic seas and enters Slovenia at Radlje ob Dravi in northeastern Slovenia. It continues on to a point south of Snežnik in southern Slovenia. Budget 20 days end to end.

E7 European Hiking Trail This 600km trail connects the Atlantic with the Black Sea. It crosses into western Slovenia at Robič and runs along the Soča Valley. From here, it continues through the southern part of the country eastward to Bistrica ob Sotli, before exiting into Croatia. Takes about 30 days to hike end to end.

Via Alpina (www.via-alpina.com) Slovenia has joined Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Italy, France and Monaco to develop this system of five long trails that follow the entire arc of the Alps from Trieste to Monaco. Two of the trails pass through northern Slovenia: the 14-stage Red Trail (220km) and the 10-stage Purple Trail (120km).

Alpe-Adria-Trail (www.alpe-adria-trail.com) This 700km through Austria, Italy and Slovenia, enters Slovenia at the Jepca mountain pass on the Austrian border and continues for 145km, exiting at Milje above Trieste.

Skiing

Skiing rivals hiking as the most popular recreational pursuit in Slovenia, and many Slovenes even believe the sport was invented here. Today an estimated 300,000 people – some 15% of the population – ski regularly. Just about everyone takes to the slopes or trails in season, and you can too on the more than three-dozen ski grounds and resorts of varying sizes listed in the Slovenian Tourist Board’s useful Ski Resorts in Slovenia.

Most of Slovenia’s ski areas are small and relatively unchallenging compared to the Alpine resorts of France, Switzerland and Italy, but they do have the attraction of lower prices and easy access. For more details, as well as the latest weather and snow reports, check out the Ski Resort Info website (www.skiresort.info) or Snow Telephone (Snežni Telefon; icon-phonegif %01-620 36 14; www.snezni-telefon.si).

Julian Alps

Kranjska Gora (800m to 1215m) Kranjska Gora has some 20km of pistes, but the skiing here is fairly straightforward and suited mostly to beginners and intermediates. Nevertheless, for foreign visitors, it is probably Slovenia’s best-known and most popular ski resort, being easily accessible from Austria and Italy.

Vogel (570m to 1800m) Above shimmering Lake Bohinj, Vogel offers dazzling views of Mt Triglav and reliable snow cover on around 22km of slopes.

Eastern Slovenia

Krvavec (1450m to 1970m) In the hills northeast of Kranj, Krvavec is one of the best-equipped ski areas in the country, with 30km of pistes and 40km of trails. In addition you’ll find a number of ski (Alpine and telemark) and snowboard schools, equipment rental, a ski shop, and some good restaurants and bars. As it’s only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana, it’s best avoided at the weekends.

Maribor Pohorje (330m to 1350m) In the hills south of Maribor, this is the biggest downhill skiing area, with 42km of linked pistes and 27km of cross-country trails suitable for skiers of all levels. It offers a ski and snowboard school, equipment rental and floodlit night skiing, as well as being a good starting point for ski touring through the forested hills of the Pohorje.

HIKING RESOURCES

A The Ljubljana-based Alpine Association of Slovenia is the fount of all information on hikes and treks. The organisation is a good first stop for basic info and arranging mountain guides. It also publishes hiking maps and maintains an up-to-date list of mountain huts, refuges and bivouacs throughout Slovenia on its website.

A The Slovenian Tourist Board ( www.slovenia.info ) publishes the excellent Hiking in Slovenia brochure with more than 30 suggested itineraries.

A The Julian Alps of Slovenia (Cicerone) by Justi Carey and Roy Clark features 58 walking routes and short treks. The same pair’s Trekking in Slovenia: The Slovene High Level Route (Cicerone) includes 500km of mountain and upland trail walking. Long Distance Trails, published by the Slovenian Tourist Board and the Alpine Association of Slovenia, features several walks and hikes.

Cycling & Mountain Biking

Slovenia is an excellent cycling destination, both for road and off-road riding. Ljubljana is a bike-friendly big city, with marked cycling paths, an active bike-riding population, and several rental outfits, including an innovative rent-as-you-go cycling scheme called Bicike(lj). Around the country, you’ll find trails suited both to casual and experienced riders. Some ski resorts reopen in summer as downhill-cycling adrenaline parks.

BIKE RENTALS & REPAIR

Rent bikes at TICs, adventure-travel agencies and many hotels. Rates depend on the make and quality of the bike, but expect to pay anywhere from €2 to €4 per hour and €12 to €18 per day for a good-quality mountain bike. Cheaper rates can sometimes be negotiated for longer rentals. Some places also offer electronic bikes (e-bikes) for rent. These are a lot