Lonely Planet Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

By Marc Di Duca and Kerry Walker

Lonely Planet’s Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the region has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Swill a beer at Oktoberfest, drive the Romantic Road, and wander through the Black Forest; all with your trusted travel companion.

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest Travel Guide:

What’s NEW in this edition?

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest’s best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas 

Planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card* with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

 

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Eating & drinking in Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest - we reveal the dishes and drinks you have to try
Colour maps and images throughout

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, politics

Over 43 maps 

Covers Munich, Bavaria, Nuremberg, The Romantic Road, Salzburg, Stuttgart & the Black Forest, Lake Constance

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest, our most comprehensive guide to Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

Visiting Munich for a week or less? Lonely Planet’s Pocket Munich is a handy-sized guide focused on the city’s can’t-miss experiences.

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s Germany for a comprehensive look at all the country has to offer.

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Oct 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781837580514

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Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

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Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Oktoberfest

Activities

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Munich

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around Munich

Dachau

Schleissheim

Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land

A Historical Journey

Bavaria

Bavarian Alps

Füssen

Oberammergau

Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Mittenwald

Oberstdorf

Bad Tölz

Chiemsee

Berchtesgaden

The Romantic Road

Würzburg

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Dinkelsbühl

Nördlingen

Donauwörth

Augsburg

Landsberg am Lech

Nuremberg & Franconia

Nuremberg

Bamberg

Bayreuth

Coburg

Altmühltal Nature Park

Eichstätt

Regensburg & the Danube

Regensburg

Ingolstadt

Freising

Landshut

Passau

Bavarian Forest

Straubing

Romantic Residences

Salzburg & Around

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around Salzburg

Schloss Hellbrunn

Untersberg

Hallein & Bad Dürrnberg

Werfen

Stuttgart & the Black Forest

Stuttgart

Ludwigsburg

Swabian Alps Region

Tübingen

Burg Hohenzollern

Schwäbisch Hall

Ulm

The Black Forest

Baden-Baden

Karlsruhe

Freudenstadt

Kinzigtal

Freiburg

Schauinsland

St Peter

Breisach

Feldberg

Titisee-Neustadt

Schluchsee

Triberg

Martinskapelle

Villingen-Schwenningen

Rottweil

Unterkirnach

Lake Constance

Konstanz

Meersburg

Friedrichshafen

Ravensburg

Lindau

Dramatic Landscapes

UNDERSTAND

Understand Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

History

Southern Germany’s Vibrant Culture

More than Sausages & Beer

Wild Landscapes & Animals

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Climate

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Local Transport

Train

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

Is it the sap-scented hills and trails in forests Black and Bavarian, the Franconian beer, or the dark tourism of Nuremberg? Or is it admiration for southern Germany’s knack of producing cars that work, its galleries packed with modern art, or the awe I feel for the German intellect as I face yet another devilishly complex Deutsche Bahn ticket machine? It’s all of the above and much more that has me returning time and again to this quirky yet level-headed corner of Europe.

Nuremberg | SPECTRAL-DESIGN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Marc Di Duca, Writer

For more about, see our writers

Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest’s Top Experiences

1HOP CULTURE

Up there with the Czechs and the Belgians, Bavaria’s countless breweries produce some of the finest beers in the world. All recipes adhere religiously to the Reinheitsgebot that forbids anything other than water, hops and barley going into the local brews. Bavaria also has one of the most celebrated beer cultures, countless beer gardens and beer halls, plus the world’s greatest beer-themed event – the famous Oktoberfest.

F.CADIOU/GETTY IMAGES ©

Hofbräuhaus

The Hofbräuhaus in central Munich is not just any old beer hall, it’s the definitive Munich pub, complete with resident oompah band, swaying tourists, the most illustrious of house beers and even a souvenir shop. All in all, an unmissable Munich experience.

PIT STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Oktoberfest

The world’s biggest beer bash, in Munich, lures a global posse of hedonists attired in Lederhosen and Dirndl; but there’s a quieter, folksier side, with less raucous beer tents and time-honoured traditions teleporting visitors back to its early 19th-century beginnings.

ALEXANDER RATHS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bamberg’s Rauchbier

In a land that lives by the hop, the town of Bamburg has special status as home of one of Southern Germany’s most celebrated specialities – Rauchbier – which translates as ‘Smoke Beer’, a brew with a spicy, smokey aftertaste.

DIETMAR RAUSCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2CASTLES GALORE

Love castles? Then Bavaria is your place. Three cheers for King Ludwig II for commissioning the region’s most charming chateaux in the shape of Neuschwanstein, Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee. Of course countless other princes, bishops and other titled individuals contributed to the south’s stock of schlosses, which are now enjoyed by millions of visitors from around the globe.

Neuschwanstein

The ultimate romantic castle rises like an Alpine dream from the misty forests near Füssen. Commissioned by oddball king Ludwig II in a flight of budget-busting fantasy, Bavaria’s most famous monarch never saw it finished, unlike the hordes of visitors it receives today.

BLUEJAYPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Munich Residenz

Packed with ornate interiors, period furniture and precious works of art, and boasting its own Baroque theatre, the former residence of the Bavarian royal family, located slap bang in the very heart of Munich, is essential viewing when in the Bavarian capital.

CRISTI POPESCU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Schloss Linderhof

Versailles-inspired Linderhof occupies a remote site surrounded by snowcapped peaks and moody pine forests, making it one of the south’s most memorable stately homes. Getting to this lonely spot west of Oberammergau is half the fun – try hiking there for a full day out.

CHEN MIN CHUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3AWESOME ALPS

Bavaria may claim just a sliver of the Alps but it sure does pack a lot into its mountains. King of the German Alps is the Zugspitze (the highest point, at 2962m), but there are many other mountains from which to enjoy dramatic views. Between the peaks glisten glacier-fed lakes that provide many a stop-and-stare vista and ample opportunities for water-borne fun and tranquil days out by the water.

Zugspitze

South of the winter sports resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, you won’t need crampons to tackle Germany’s highest peak – just a ticket for the train that will take you much of the way to the top.

APPLE KULLATHIDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Königssee

Bavaria’s most picturesque lake is a great starting point for flits into the Alpine backcountry. Take one of the eco-friendly boats to the jumping-off point for some amazing day hikes.

ANIMAFLORA PICSSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Garmisch-Partenkirchen

This winter sports resort has the state’s longest skiing season and heaps of hiking possibilities. It’s as much a place to see-and-be-seen as a venue for serious snow action.

NAVINTAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4SIMPLY THE WURST

It would seem every town has its own version of the simple sausage, the perfect accompaniment to the region’s unsurpassed lager. Eaten for breakfast in Munich, lunch in Nuremberg and dinner in Regensburg, you could eat your way across the Free State in a spree of wurst consumption, sampling a different type of links every day.

Munich’s Weisswurst

The veal sausages of Munich come in herb-flecked white and are consumed for breakfast with a stein of wheat beer. It’s all over by lunch, when Weisswurst are considered past their eat-by date.

ZARZAMORA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nuremberg’s Little Links

Grilled to smoky perfection in the taverns of Nuremberg, there’s no better snack on the run when in the capital of Franconia than the city’s miniature Bratwurst.

The Coburg Whopper

Head to the central square in Coburg to experience Bavaria’s longest wurst, a 30cm whopper grilled over pine-cone embers, drizzled in mustard and inserted into the Free State’s smallest bread bun.

KARL ALLGAEUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5HUNTING DOWN THE THIRD REICH

Southern Germany certainly has its fair share of sites made infamous by the Nazis during their rise to power and subsequent demise at the hands of the Allies. From sites closely associated with Hitler himself to disturbing concentration camps and fascinating museum exhibitions, those with an interest in WWII history should make a beeline for the Free State. The Nazi legacy is a major reason many come here.

Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest

A combination of bus and lift will help you climb high into the Alps near Berchtesgaden to reach this lofty perch that was built as Hitler’s mountain retreat.

BABETKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Reichspart-eitagsgelände

If you’ve ever wondered where all that footage of a ranting Hitler and Sieg-Heiling masses was filmed, head to this open space and exhibition in southeast Nuremberg.

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Dachau Concentration Camp

A short ride from Munich city’s centre, the Nazi’s first concentration camp is a moving experience. Learn about the prisoners interned here and the terrible fate that awaited many.

BOGDAN STANGA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6SOUTHERN QUIRKS

Bavaria is a place that proudly flaunts its folksy credentials, with many locals swapping weekday business suits for Lederhosen and Dirndl at the weekend and for special events. Germany’s south is also home to some instantly recognisable Alpine kitsch such as the Black Forest’s cuckoo clock. Add to that the weird-and-wonderful world of Ludwig II and Southern Germany shapes up as a one of the most quirkily charming places in Europe.

Triberg’s Cuckoo Clocks

Triberg is cuckoo central, though these inimitable timepieces are available across the region. They make for great and authentic souvenirs with the genuine handcrafted article going for hundreds of euros.

THEPHOTOFAB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lederhosen & Dirndl

Leather pants for the boys, frilly, intricately embroidered dresses and aprons for the girls – this is the traditional costume of Bavaria, often worn by visitors to Oktoberfest.

Ludwig II Heritage

King Ludwig II had a rather overactive imagination, his flights of fancy turned into bricks and mortar by local architects in projects that soon emptied the royal coffers.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Euro (€)

Language

German

Visas

Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days; some nationalities will need a Schengen visa.

Money

ATMs are ubiquitous, accessible 24/7 and the easiest and quickest way to obtain cash. But not all machines take all cards. Check with your bank or credit-card company about fees. Credit and debit cards accepted at most hotels and shops but not all restaurants.

Mobile Phones

Phones from other countries work in Germany but if they contain a non-EU SIM they attract roaming charges. Local SIM cards cost as little as €10.

Time

Central European Time (GMT/UTC plus one hour)

When to Go

03-climate-bav7jpg

High Season (May–Sep)

A The best time to travel: skies are bright and temperatures comfortable.

A Good for hiking and other outdoor pursuits; hanging out in beer gardens; attending festivals.

Shoulder (Mar–May & Oct)

A Fewer tourists means lower prices and less-crowded sights.

A Surprisingly pleasant weather and a riot of colour: wildflowers in spring, foliage in autumn.

Low Season (Nov–Feb)

A With the exception of winter sports, activities focus more on culture and city life.

A Reduced opening hours or seasonal closures at museums, other sights and smaller guesthouses.

Useful Websites

City of Munich (www.muenchen.de) Official tourism site.

Bavarian Tourism Association (www.bayern.by) Bavaria’s official tourism site.

Black Forest Tourism (www.blackforest-tourism.com) Black Forest’s official tourism site.

Castles in Bavaria (www.schloesser.bayern.de) Bavaria’s palaces and castles.

State of Bavaria (www.bayern.de) Official Bavarian government site.

Important Numbers

Omit the area code if you are inside that area. Drop the initial 0 if calling from abroad.

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than €70

A Dorm beds: €15–30

A Lots of relatively cheap supermarkets for self-caterers

A In Munich, visit museums and galleries on Sunday when many charge €1 admission

Midrange: €70–200

A Double room in a midrange hotel: around €80

A Main course in a midrange restaurant: €12–22

A Economy car rental: from around €30 per day (less if booked online in advance)

Top End: More than €200

A Luxury hotel room: from €120

A Three-course meal in a good restaurant: around €50

Opening Hours

Opening hours don’t vary much across the year.

Banks 8.30am–4pm Mon-Fri, limited opening Sat

Restaurants 11am-11pm

Cafes 7.30am–7pm

Bars and clubs 6pm–1am minimum

Shops 9.30am–8pm Mon-Sat

Arriving in the Region

Munich Airport Shuttle bus every 20 minutes to the Hauptbahnhof from 6.25am to 10.30pm. S-Bahn every 10 minutes, almost 24 hours. Taxi to city centre €50 to €70.

Nuremberg Airport U-Bahns run every few minutes to the city centre. Taxi to city centre about €20.

Salzburg Airport City bus every 10 to 15 minutes to the Hauptbahnhof from 5.30am to 11pm. Taxi to city centre €15 to €20.

Getting Around

Getting around Bavaria and the Black Forest is most efficient by car or by train. Regional bus services fill the gaps in areas not well served by the rail network.

Train The most efficient way of getting around with a dense network of lines and stations.

Car Good for travelling at your own pace and without the ticket and time constraints of the public transport system. Motorways are good; things can slow down considerably off the autobahn.

Bus Most journeys in the Alps and some on the Romantic Road are by bus. Otherwise this is the least efficient way of seeing the region.

Bike A cheap and green way of touring the region’s cities. Bike paths are plentiful in Munich and Nuremberg.

For much more, see getting around

First Time Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Ensure your passport is valid for another four months after arrival in Germany

A Check budget airline baggage restrictions carefully

A Inform your bank-/credit-card company you’ll be travelling in Germany

A Make sure your travel insurance covers all planned activities

A Find out what you need to provide to hire a car

What to Pack

A Hiking boots and other walking gear for Alpine trails

A Phrasebook or translation app

A European plug adaptors for charging gadgetry – they will be harder to come by in Germany

A A sweater or fleece even in summer for evenings in the Alps

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Holidays such as Easter or Christmas aren’t good times to travel to Germany. Things are often completely dead.

A Schedule some time away from southern Germany’s big cities to sample life at a slower, more traditional pace.

A If you are not going to Oktoberfest, don’t even think about going to Munich in late September when the city is booked up.

A Make sure you are insured for any extreme activities such as winter sports in the Alps.

A When travelling around Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg by train, put off your journey until after 9am when you can use a Land ticket giving you unlimited travel in either region all day for €24 (Baden-Württemberg) or €25 (Bavaria).

What to Wear

Bavarians (and their counterparts in the Black Forest) are a culturally conservative bunch. Smart casual will do for the vast majority of evening occasions, and outside of more fashion-conscious Munich, you may be surprised how informally Germans dress for smart restaurants and the theatre. Only the most upmarket establishments may insist on jackets for men.

For sightseeing take sturdy shoes for all those cobbled streets and a waterproof coat; walking boots or trail shoes are essential if you are heading to the Alps. Even in summer long sleeves are a must in the evenings, especially at altitude.

Sleeping

A If heading to the region in late September (during Oktoberfest) accommodation may be very difficult to book at short notice.

A Rooms with air-con are rare. Wherever you stay, breakfast always appears on price lists as a separate item, not included in room rates.

A Another extra charge is the Kurtaxe (resort tax), particularly common in the Alps. Between €1 and €3, it’s not included in the room rate but often gains you a discount card for local transport and sights.

A Wi-fi at every standard of accommodation is virtually guaranteed and almost always free.

Money

Southern Germany is an expensive place to visit, but there are ways of preventing your stash of euros from being depleted too rapidly.

A Germany’s public transport systems offer myriad ways of saving cash – hardly anyone pays full fare. The best place to start is www.bahn.de .

A Making accommodation reservations on popular booking websites can save you a lot, especially at quiet times in large cities.

A Take advantage of generous buffet breakfasts and inexpensive lunch menus to fill up on the cheap.

Bargaining

Bargaining is not acceptable anywhere at any time in Germany’s south.

Tipping

When to tip You could get through an entire trip around southern Germany without giving a single tip. Few service industry employees expect them these days, though most still appreciate a little extra when it comes their way.

Hotels Generally €1 per bag.

Pubs Leave a little small change for the bar staff.

Restaurants Round up the bill to the nearest €5 (or €10) if you were satisfied with service.

Taxis Round up to the nearest €5 so the driver doesn’t have to hunt for change.

Toilet attendants €0.50 usually keeps these guys happy unless a price list states exact rates.

Language

It’s just about possible to get by in Germany’s south without speaking any German whatsoever, but learning a few simple words and phrases will pay dividends in all kinds of situations from the restaurant table to the booking office. In big cities, such as Munich and Nuremberg, English is spoken by those who come into regular contact with foreigners, but this may not be the case in rural locations.

Etiquette

Southern Germans are a pretty rigid bunch, with elderly people in particular expecting lots of set behaviour and stock phrases. It’s easy to make a mistake, but the following should help you avoid red-faced moments.

Greetings Until noon say ‘Guten Morgen’; from noon until early evening this becomes ‘Grüss Gott’. ‘Guten Abend’ is used from around 6pm onwards until it’s time to say ‘Gute Nacht’. Use the formal ‘Sie’ with strangers, and the informal ‘du’ and first names if invited to. If in doubt, use ‘Sie’.

At the table Tucking in before the ‘Guten Appetit’ starting gun is fired is regarded as bad manners. When drinking wine, the toast is ‘Zum Wohl’, with beer it’s ‘Prost’.

When meeting up Punctuality is appreciated – never arrive more than 15 minutes late.

What’s New

Though it may not be entirely business as usual for a few years in Germany’s affluent south, across the region people are looking to the future with guarded optimism. Tourism will continue to return to Munich and the Alps in coming years, perhaps in a more sustainable way, locals hope.

European Athletics Championships 2022

Taking place in mid-August 2022, the European Athletics Championships will be the biggest multi-sports event to take place in Munich since the 1972 Olympics.

Oktoberfest Revived

Cancelled in unprecedented circumstances in 2020 and 2021, the 2022 (or possibly 2023 – who knows) Oktoberfest is likely to double up as Europe’s biggest ‘end of COVID-19’ celebration.

Timeride

Munich’s latest attraction, Timeride (https://timeride.de/en/muenchen/) is a virtual flight through 7000 years of Bavarian history in a carriage pulled by peacocks, a mode of transport allegedly invented by Emperor Ludwig II.

Oberammergau Passion Play

The 42nd Oberammergau Passion Play, performed every ten years, will take place between May and October of 2022.

Landshut Wedding 2023

Held every four years, this huge event returns the town of Landshut to the middle ages. It’s one of Bavaria’s biggest bashes and unmissable if you happen to be around at the time.

Zero-Waste Lifestyle

Eco-friendliness has always been bigger in the south than elsewhere in Germany and when it comes to food packaging, locals have declared war on superfluous plastics, most obviously for the visitor when buying takeaway meals.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN MUNICH, BAVARIA & THE BLACK FOREST

Marc Di Duca, Lonely Planet writer

Few cities in central Europe were affected as much by the COVID-19 crisis as Munich, with the world-famous Oktoberfest, by far the biggest event in the city, if not in the whole of Germany, cancelled twice in a row (2020 and 2021). Lockdowns also chased the tourists out of town and off the Alpine slopes, and recovery has been slow. Some predict tourist numbers will not recover to 2019 levels until mid-decade.

Despite medical woes, post-COVID economic turmoil and the slight uncertainty around politics on a national level, Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg continue to be two of the most affluent places in the world. They are also leading the world in green technology and sustainable lifestyles. A focus on environmentally friendly living is set to dominate in coming years as southern Germans intensify their already considerable efforts to fight global warming.

Going West African

A mini-food fad in Munich in recent years has been the spicy fare of West Africa, though this might possibly only be down to the fact that Munich has successfully eaten its way through the cuisines of the rest of the globe.

Munich’s new infrastructure projects

Showing Munich’s commitment to sustainable green development, the city is adding a new S-Bahn line to relieve congestion in the city centre, and drilling a tunnel under the English Garden – which will reunite the two halves of the city’s green lung.

Umadum München

The world’s biggest mobile ferris wheel (https://umadum.info/en/home-en/) has been erected in the Werksviertel-Mitte near the Ostbahnhof and has proved a big attraction when not closed down by anti-COVID measures.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/Bavaria/articles.

Wahlmuenchnerin (www.wahlmuenchnerin.com) Tales of everyday life in the Bavarian capital told by a long-established blogger.

Munichworld (@munichworld) Striking images of Munich’s best-known and lesser-known locations.

Bavaria.by (www.bavaria.by) The definitive website on travelling in the Free State and one of the only sites to use that cool .by suffix.

Bayerischer_wald_aktiv (@bayerischer_wald_aktiv) Visual inspiration for trips into the wilds of the Bavarian Forest.

Bavarian For Beginners (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiE8xZruGIQ) Lessons in the Bavarian dialect delivered in typically deadpan southern German style.

FAST FACTS

Food trend Plant-based dishes

Number of beer gardens in Munich Over 60

Number of BMW cars produced each year Around two million

Population 23.8 million

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Oktoberfest, September

Tollwood Festival, July

Christmas Markets, December

Salzburg Festival, August

Wagner Festival, July

January

With the last corks of New Year popped, it’s time to clear your head on the ski slopes of the Alps. Winter bites coldest in January so wrap up snug while sightseeing.

3 Mozartwoche

Since 1956 Salzburg has held a Mozart Week in late January to mark the great composer’s birthday on the 27th of the month. The event lures a spectacular list of internationally renowned conductors, soloists and orchestras.

February

The skiing season reaches its zenith with clogged pistes and queues at the ski lifts. Down in the valleys and on the plains you can usually kiss goodbye to the snow as the very first hints of spring appear.

z Fasching (Carnival)

During the six-week pre-Lent period (January to February) preceding Ash Wednesday, many towns celebrate with silly costumes, waving parades, incomprehensible satirical shows and drunken revelry, especially in Munich (www.munich-touristinfo.de). Rio it ain’t.

May

Spring has well and truly gesprungen! Cable cars are heaving hikers instead of skiers up the mountainsides, the beer garden season kicks off under flowering chestnut trees and asparagus features on just about every menu.

z Maifest

On the eve of 1 May, the May Festival celebrates the end of winter with villagers chopping down a tree to make a Maibaum (maypole), painting, carving and decorating it, then partying around it.

z Africa Festival

Bongo drums, hot rhythms and fancy costumes turn the banks of the Main River in Würzburg into Europe’s largest international festival of African-origin music. The event is held in late May and draws around 100,000 visitors.

July

Fleeing the city heat is as easy as buying a train ticket to the cooler air of the Alps. Return to an urban setting in the evenings as the festival season swings into action.

z Christopher Street Day

Gay, lesbian, straight or transgender – everybody comes out to party at Munich’s flashy gay parade held over two days in mid-July and attracting 50,000 revellers. Provocative costumes, rainbow flags, techno music and naked torsos guaranteed.

z Samba Festival

This unlikely orgy of song and dance in mid-July draws a quarter of a million people to normally sedate Coburg for three days of exotically colourful carnival costumes, high-energy music and a procession of gyrating backsides.

6 St Annafest

The enormously popular St Anna Festival (www.alladooch-annafest.de) is an 11-day beer party taking over an enchanted forest near Forchheim. Held between late July and early August.

z Tollwood Festival

Crowds flock to Munich’s Olympiapark for this popular month-long world-culture festival with concerts, theatre, circus acts, readings and other fun events. It’s held from late June to late July, and attracts huge international acts.

3 Wagner Festival

This prestigious festival held in Bayreuth from late July to August is the Wagner event of the year attracting opera-goers from every continent. Tickets are hard to come by.

August

Summer is at its peak, the kids are off school, camping grounds fill with an international fleet of campervans, and the Alpine meadows reach their floral peak.

6 Gäubodenfest

Second in size only to Oktoberfest this mass booze-up is an occasion for much red-faced revelry. It draws around 1.2 million people to little Straubing for 11 days from the second Friday of August.

z Salzburg Festival

One of Europe’s most important classical-music festivals, this premier event runs from late July to the end of August and features everything from Mozart to contemporary music, opera and theatre.

z Sommerfest

In early August join in four days of gigs, food and partying by the River Neckar in Stuttgart. If the weather is hot the event attracts half a million revellers.

6 Stuttgarter Weindorf

Beginning on the last weekend in August, this 12-day event sees winemakers from the region sell the year’s vintages from hundreds of booths in Schlossplatz, Kirchstrasse and Marktplatz.

September

Autumn delivers its first nip, especially at altitude. Pupils return to their schools, students to uni and small-town Germany reverts to its reassuringly predictable central European normality.

z Cannstatter Volksfest

Very similar to Oktoberfest, Stuttgart’s biggest beer festival takes place for two weeks from late September to mid-October and features processions, a fairground and a huge firework display to round things off.

z Oktoberfest

Oktoberfest should be under October, right? Wrong. It actually takes place more in September than October. The world’s most celebrated guzzle fest is Bavaria’s top event with five million raising a tankard or 10. Prost!

October

2 Munich Marathon

Bavaria’s top mass-participation running event wisely takes place just after Oktoberfest, keeping at least the runners sober in the weeks leading up to the race. It ends in a grandstand finish at the Olympiastadion.

December

An eventful month with the ski season beginning in earnest and the 5 December visit by St Nick. Bavarian New Year’s Eve celebrations see fireworks launched by thousands of amateur (pyro)maniacs.

7 Christmas Markets

Celebrate the holidays at glittery Christmas markets with mulled wine, gingerbread cookies and shimmering ornaments. The markets in Munich, Nuremberg, Freiburg and Salzburg are the most famous. Open from late November to 24 December.

Itineraries

Southern Germany Highlights

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10 DAYS

This itinerary takes in the best of the region in a whistle-stop tour of southern Germany’s must-sees. You could spend months exploring the region but 10 days is just enough to tick off the essentials.

Kick off your southern odyssey in Munich where three days is barely enough time to sample the Bavarian capital’s art and beer. A short hop north by train brings you to Nuremberg, the bustling capital of Franconia and a major draw for fans of both dark tourism and dark beer. Another train, another historic city, this time university town Würzburg, famous for its wines and the prince-bishop’s residence. You’re now at the northern terminus of the 350km-long Romantic Road. The most engaging stop along the route is Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a labyrinth of medieval streets and lanes with heaps of sugary architecture. The Romantic Road ends at the gates of Schloss Neuschwanstein, Bavarian king Ludwig II’s fairy-tale pad and one of the world’s most iconic 19th-century follies. Stop off at Lindau on the shores of Lake Constance en route to Freiburg in the southern Black Forest, where you can follow a tour of the Münster with a slab of the famous local gateau.

Itineraries

Munich & the Alps

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10 DAYS

The Alps are a definite highlight of Bavaria and almost every visitor makes at least one trip to these famous peaks. This itinerary includes the best stop-offs and features everything from lakes in the foothills to a train ride to the top of the highest peak.

The route can be tackled as a point-to-point trip or as day trips from Munich; the German Alps are easily reachable by train from there. Beginning in Munich, you’ll need at least three days to cover the essential viewing in this vibrant metropolis, perhaps reserving time for a spot of shopping and to visit some of the city’s lesser-known sights such as the Olympiapark and BMW Welt. If there’s time, the incredibly beautiful Starnberger See is an S-Bahn ride away. Pretty Oberammergau, famous for its once-a-decade passion play, is just over two hours (with changes) on the train from Munich Hauptbahnhof and makes a superb base for visiting King Ludwig II’s Schloss Linderhof, an easy 12km hike. Then it’s time to stand on the roof of Germany: the Zugspitze above Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the Bundesrepublik’s highest peak. If you don’t have your own wheels you’ll have to backtrack all the way to Munich to reach the Chiemsee. Water sports are one of the big draws here, though most come for another of Ludwig II’s palaces, Schloss Herrenchiemsee, set on an island (the Herreninsel) in the lake and accessible by ferry from the town of Prien. After a day of messing around on the Wasser, it’s back into the mountains, this time the ranges around Berchtesgaden in Germany’s extreme southeastern tip. Some intriguing Nazi history can be found here, particularly Hitler’s mountain perch, the Eagle’s Nest, now a seasonal restaurant that draws many visitors. For an equally photogenic escapade, take one of the electric boats from Berchtesgaden along the stunningly picturesque Königssee, surrounded by the Berchtesgaden National Park. From Berchtesgaden it’s a short bus ride into Austria and a day or two of Sound of Music–mania in achingly beautiful Salzburg.

Itineraries

Stuttgart & the Black Forest

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1 WEEK

This zigzagging canter through Germany’s southwest is for those who like a varied time on their travels – the route is a mix of cuckoo clocks and state-of-the art luxury car museums, half-timbered villages and the big-city vibe of Stuttgart.

Begin with a couple of days exploring the galleries, stately plazas and vibrant nightlife of regional capital Stuttgart. High on your agenda should be the city’s regal heart, Schlossplatz, the Staatsgalerie’s art treasures and evenings spent sampling local Rieslings in a Weinstube (wine tavern) or hanging out in Theodor-Heuss-Strasse’s lounge bars. Car fans should race to the space-age Mercedes-Benz and Porsche museums. On day three, head west to Baden-Baden, a swish art nouveau spa town picturesquely nestled at the foot of the Black Forest’s spruce-cloaked hills. Here you can wallow in thermal waters, saunter through the sculpture-speckled Lichtentaler Allee gardens and try your luck in the casino. Day four takes you south along the serpentine Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse (B500), with tremendous forest and mountain panoramas at every bend. Stop to glimpse Germany’s largest square in Freudenstadt on your way to the curving Kinzigtal, the prettiest valley in this neck of the woods, with its orchards, vineyards and cluster of half-timbered villages. Your fifth day takes you to the Black Forest’s most storied town, Triberg, where Germany’s highest waterfall flows, the world’s biggest cuckoo clock calls, and Claus Schäfer bakes the best Black Forest gateau using the original 1915 recipe. Work off the cake with a walk or cross-country ski in the wooded heights of Martinskapelle or Stöcklewaldturm. A scenic hour’s drive from Triberg brings you to the sunny university city of Freiburg, close to the French border. Spend the day absorbing its easygoing flair in the Altstadt’s quaint lanes, watched over by a monster of a medieval minster. Wind out your final day by the lake. Swinging east brings you to forest-rimmed Titisee en route to the watery expanse of Lake Constance, Central Europe’s third-largest lake, flanked by quaint villages, vineyards, wetlands and beaches. An afternoon in Konstanz is just long enough to get a taste of this Roman-rooted city, where the historic alleys of the Altstadt wend down to a relaxed lakefront promenade.

Itineraries

Romantic Road

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1 WEEK

Germany’s most popular tourist route winds its way for 350km through Bavaria’s western reaches.

The Romantic Road begins at Würzburg where two days are enough to tour the impressive baroque Residenz and sample the region’s wines. From here head south to magical Rothenburg ob der Tauber where you can lose yourself in the medieval lanes and celebrate Christmas every day. Your next destination is quaint little Dinkelsbühl, a medieval gem ringed by a complete set of town walls. More medieval defences ring Nördlingen, a less touristy but equally attractive stopover. Set aside some time to check out the story-book castle guarding the half-timbered village of Harburg, and to stroll through twee Donauwörth before hitting the city of Augsburg, the Romantic Road’s biggest settlement boasting several worthwhile attractions. Many a church graces the Romantic Road but, to Augsburg’s south, the one packing the mightiest punch is the luminous Wieskirche, a true baroque masterpiece. Contemplate King Ludwig II’s flights of fancy at his whimsical castle, Schloss Neuschwanstein, where Germany’s most popular tourist route comes to a fittingly fairy-tale climax.

Itineraries

Nuremberg & Franconia

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1 WEEK

Franconia has quite a different feel to it than southern Bavaria. Some of Bavaria’s most intriguing museums, historical centres and cultural associations are in its north and this trip covers all the essentials.

The lively capital of Franconia, Nuremberg has bags to see and do – including the Nuremberg trials courtroom, the Germanisches Nationalmuseum and the Deutsche Bahn Museum – and an embarrassment of eateries to choose from when you return from exploring the region. A close second in Franconia’s pecking order is Unesco-listed Bamberg, a confusion of ancient bridges, winding cobbled streets and riverside cottages, the air perfumed by numerous breweries producing the town’s unique Rauchbier (smoked beer). An hour’s train ride brings you to Bayreuth, famous for its annual Wagner Festival but a pleasant place to stroll any time of year. Around 100km north of Nuremberg, Coburg is memorable for its fortress, its British royal family connections and the longest sausages you’ll ever eat served in the smallest bread buns. Round off your time in Franconia with a hike, bike or canoe trip (requiring more time) through the glorious Altmühltal Nature Park.

Plan Your Trip

Oktoberfest

The world’s largest drink-a-thon and the traditional highlight of Bavaria’s annual events calender, Oktoberfest is one of the best-known fairs on earth. No other event manages to mix such a level of crimson-faced humour, drunken debauchery and excessive consumption of beer with so much tradition, history and oompah music.

Oktoberfest crowds | JIMMY R/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

Where

At the Theresienwiese to the west of the city centre. Poccistrasse and Theresienwiese are the nearest U-Bahn stations.

When

For 16 days up to the first (or occasionally second) Sunday in October.

2022: 17 September to 3 October

2023: 16 September to 3 October

2024: 21 September to 6 October

Opening Hours

Beer is served from 10am to 10.30pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 10.30 Saturday and Sunday.

Other attractions and facilities open longer hours.

Cost

Admission: free

Price of a 1L Mass of beer: around €11

Half a roast chicken: around €10

Numbers

Visitors: between six and seven million

Amount of beer consumed: between six and seven million litres

Beer tents: 35

Mass Hysteria

As early as mid-July the brewery crews move in to start erecting the tents which almost fill the Theresienwiese, a gravelly open space in the western reaches of Munich city centre known locally as the Wiesn. When the canvas is taut, the space-age technology is in place to deliver millions of litres of beer to the taps, the Ferris wheel is ready to roll and tens of thousands of chickens are rotating on grills, the Wiesn is ready to welcome the millions of people who arrive annually to toast Germany’s ‘city of beer’.

During the 16 days of festivities, most travellers dip in for a few days or perhaps a week, taking time off from the Mass (the towering 1L mugs of beer) to see Munich’s sights and perhaps a castle or two. Whatever you decide to do, be sure to book everything up to a year in advance. And if you can’t make it for Oktoberfest, fear not. Throughout the summer and autumn the region hosts countless other fests, often with more traditional, less commercial atmospheres (and cheaper beer). Erding and Straubing have particularly good events.

A Bit of History

The world’s biggest foam fest has its origins in a simple horse race. In 1810 Bavarian crown prince Ludwig, later King Ludwig I, married Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen, and following the wedding a horse race was held at the city gates. The six-day celebration was such a galloping success that it became an annual event, was extended and moved forward to start in September so that visitors could enjoy warmer weather and lighter nights. The horse race, which quickly became a sideshow to the suds, ended in 1960, but an agricultural show is still part of the Oktoberfest, albeit a minor one.

TOP 10 TIPS

A No cash changes hands within the beer tents – to be served beer, buy special metal tokens (Biermarken) from outside the tents. If you have tokens left over at the end of your session, you can spend them in some Munich pubs.

A No glass bottles are allowed at the Oktoberfest due to countless injuries over the years.

A Food at Oktoberfest is as pricey as the beer, so bring your own snacks. These can be consumed on the outside terraces of the beer tents but not inside.

A Beer tents are elbow to elbow all day on Saturday and Sunday, but for lighter traffic try a weekday afternoon. Until Friday of the first week the evenings tend to be slightly less swamped as well. If you pop out of a beer tent during the busy times, don’t expect your seat to be free when you return.

A Most tents have table service, but some have areas where you get the beer yourself. Tents usually employ a sufficient number of wait staff to make service swift.

A Don’t even think of lighting up in any of the beer tents. Anti-smoking laws mean your time in the tent will be up and you could face a fine.

A Don’t drink in excess – the beer at Oktoberfest is strong stuff, and probably much more potent than your local brew back home.

A The vast majority of the beer tents have their last call at 10.30pm.

A The Wiesn has its own post office, left-luggage office and childcare centre.

A You can reserve a seat at some of the beer tents up to a year in advance – see the tents’ individual websites to find out how.

Ozapft ist’s!

Starting at 10.45am on the first day, the brewer’s parade (the Festzug) travels through the city centre from the River Isar to the fairgrounds. This involves many old, brightly decorated horse-drawn carriages once used to transport kegs from brewery to pub and countless felt-hatted tagalongs. When the procession reaches the Wiesn, focus switches to the Schottenhamel beer tent and the mayor of Munich who, on the stroke of noon, takes a mallet and knocks the tap into the first keg. As the beer flows forth and the thirsty crowds cheer, the mayor exclaims: ‘Ozapft ist’s!’ (literally ‘It’s tapped’ in Bavarian dialect). If you want to witness this ceremonial opening of the Oktoberfest, be sure to get there as early as 9am to bag a seat.

Festzug (brewer’s parade) | JESUS FERNANDEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Beer

Let’s get down to the real reason most come to Oktoberfest – the beer. All the suds pulled at Oktoberfest must have been brewed within Munich’s city limits which restricts the number of breweries permitted to wet your whistle to six: Hofbräu-München (of Hofbräuhaus fame), the world-famous Paulaner, Löwenbräu, Augustiner, and the less well-known Hacker-Pschorr and Spatenbräu.

The famous 1L Mass brought to your table by a Dirndl-trussed waitress contains pretty strong stuff as the breweries cook up special concoctions for the occasion (usually known as Oktoberfestbier). The percentage of alcohol starts at around 5.8% which makes a single Mass the equivalent of almost 3.5 pints of most regular ales in Britain, Australia and the US. Traditionally the most potent brews are piped to the Wiesn by Hofbräu, the weakest by Hacker-Pschorr.

Not Just Beer

The Oktoberfest is not called the world’s biggest fair for nothing, and while most visitor’s focus is on the Bier, there’s quite a lot going on away from the tents.

The funfair with its big wheel, ye-olde test-your-strength booths and scarier 21st-century rides are obvious attractions but magic performances, an agricultural show (more interesting than it sounds) and stalls selling everything from Oktoberfest souvenirs to waffles constitute other minor diversions. The first Sunday sees an impressive costumed procession wend its way through Munich city centre, a tradition going back to 1835, and the customary religious Oktoberfest mass is held in the Hippodrom beer tent on the first Thursday. A brass band concert huffs and puffs beneath the Bavaria statue on the morning of the second Sunday near the spot from where the gun salute is fired on the last Sunday. These events are mostly attended by locals, but give a more traditional insight into the origins and customs of this blockbuster fair for those with a deeper, less inebriated interest.

Sleeping It Off

Your chances of scoring a room in Munich once the mayor has driven the tap into the famous first keg are next to nil, and even a bed in the dingiest of dorms will come with an absurd price tag. However, with Munich’s excellent transport links to the rest of Bavaria, and the proximity of the Hauptbahnhof to the Theresienwiese, commuting in from Augsburg, Garmisch-Partenkirchen or Ingolstadt, or even Salzburg and Nuremberg, is feasible. This secret got out long ago, and accommodation providers across Bavaria hitch up their rates from mid-September, but not as much as in Munich. Book accommodation just as the previous Oktoberfest is finishing if possible. If you do stay out of town, make sure you know when the last train back is, or you’ll be spending a night at the Hauptbahnhof!

Camping is a fun and relatively inexpensive way to get around the accommodation shortage. Wies’n Camp (www.munich-oktoberfest.com) sets up shop every year at the Olympic Equestrian Centre in München-Riem, a 20-minute S-Bahn ride from the Hauptbahnhof. The site has pitches for €14 a night. A place you won’t need your own rustling nylon is The Tent (www.the-tent.com) where you can bed down in the communal FloorTent for as little as €15 a night!

Family Fun

The two Tuesday afternoons (from noon