The Rough Guide to Vietnam (Travel Guide with Free eBook)

By Rough Guides

This practical travel guide to Vietnam features detailed factual travel tips and points-of-interest structured lists of all iconic must-see sights as well as some off-the-beaten-track treasures. Our itinerary suggestions and expert author picks of things to see and do will make it a perfect companion both, ahead of your trip and on the ground. This Vietnam guide book is packed full of details on how to get there and around, pre-departure information and top time-saving tips, including a visual list of things not to miss. Our colour-coded maps make Vietnam easier to navigate while you're there. This guide book to Vietnam has been fully updated post-COVID-19 and it comes with a free eBook.

The Rough Guide to VIETNAM covers: Ho Chi Minh City and around, the Mekong Delta, the central highlands, the southern coast, central Vietnam, the northern coast, Hanoi and around and the far north.

Inside this Vietnam travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER
Experiences selected for every kind of trip to Vietnam, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Ca Mau Peninsula to family activities in child-friendly places, like Tra Su Bird Sanctuary or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Ha Long Bay.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including Vietnam entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.

TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Includes carefully planned routes covering the best of Vietnam, which give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destination, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter of this Vietnam travel guide includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for water puppetry, boat trips, cycling, kayaking or exploring markets.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of Ho Chi Minh City, Da Lat, Kon Tum and Son My's best sights and top experiences helps to make the most of each trip to Vietnam, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, this Vietnam guide book will help you find the best places, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter of this travel guide to Vietnam features fascinating insights into Vietnam, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Ma Pi Leng Pass and the spectacular Khai Dinh Mausoleum.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Hoi An, Hue and many more locations in Vietnam, reduce the need to go online.

USER-FRIENDLY LAYOUT
With helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Jan 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781839059063

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to Vietnam

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

Things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

Health

The media

Crime and personal safety

Festivals and religious events

Sports and outdoor activities

Shopping

Travelling with children

Travel essentials

Ho Chi Minh City and around

Ben Nghe

Pham Ngu Lao

Ben Thanh

North of the centre

Cho Lon

North of Cho Lon

Binh Thanh and District Two

Around Ho Chi Minh City

The Mekong Delta

My Tho and around

Ben Tre

Tra Vinh and around

Vinh Long and around

Sa Dec

Cao Lanh and around

Chau Doc and around

Long Xuyen and around

Can Tho and around

Soc Trang and around

Bac Lieu and around

Ca Mau and around

Rach Gia

Ha Tien

Hon Chong Peninsula

Phu Quoc Island

The central highlands

Bao Loc and around

Da Lat

Around Da Lat

Lak Lake

Buon Ma Thuot and around

Pleiku

Around Pleiku

Kon Tum

The southern coast

The Con Dao Archipelago

Vung Tau

Long Hai and around

Phan Thiet

Mui Ne

Ca Na

Phan Rang and around

Nha Trang

The north Khanh Hoa coast

Quy Nhon and around

Quang Ngai

Central Vietnam

Hoi An

Around Hoi An

Da Nang and around

Lang Co and around

Hue

Around Hue

The DMZ and around

The northern coast

Dong Hoi

Vinh

Ninh Binh and around

Haiphong

Cat Ba Island

Ha Long City

Ha Long Bay

Bai Tu Long Bay

Hanoi and around

Hoan Kiem Lake and around

The Old Quarter

The French Quarter

Ba Dinh District

West Lake and around

West of the centre

Around Hanoi

The far north

Sa Pa

Around Sa Pa

Bac Ha and around

The Northwest Loop

The Northeast Loop

Contexts

History

Religion and beliefs

Vietnam’s ethnic minorities

Environmental issues

Music and theatre

Books

Vietnam in the movies

Vietnamese

Glossary

Small print

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Introduction to Vietnam

One has to admire Vietnam – despite its tumultuous recent history, this resilient nation has bounced back to become a big-hitter on the Southeast Asian travel circuit. As one would expect from a country so long and skinny, there’s plenty of variety on offer – it’s a land of emerald paddy fields and white-sand beaches, full-tilt cities and venerable pagodas, vast caves, craggy mountains and friendly minority communities. Visitors are met with warmth, curiosity and a seemingly irrepressible desire to connect; add in some of the region’s most nuanced cuisine, and you’re onto a winner.

The reunification of North and South Vietnam in 1975 ended twenty years of bloody civil war, and was followed by a decade or so of hardline rule from which only the shake-up of doi moi – Vietnam’s equivalent of perestroika, beginning in 1986 – could awaken the country. This signalled a renaissance for Vietnam, and today a high fever of commerce grips the nation, seen in its flash new shopping malls and designer boutiques, and the hustle and bustle of its street markets.

There’s a marked difference between north and south, a deep psychological divide that was around long before the American War, and is engrained in Vietnamese culture. Northerners are considered reticent, thrifty, law-abiding and lacking the dynamism and entrepreneurial know-how of their supposedly more worldly wise southern compatriots. Not surprisingly, this is mirrored in the broader economy: the south is Vietnam’s growth engine, boasting lower unemployment and higher average wages, and increasingly glitzy Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) looks more to Bangkok and Singapore than it does to the policy-makers in Hanoi.

Many visitors find more than enough to intrigue and excite them in Hanoi, HCMC and the other major centres, but despite the cities’ allure, it’s the country’s striking landscape that most impresses. Vietnam occupies a narrow strip of land that hugs the eastern borders of Cambodia and Laos, hemmed in by rugged mountains to the west, and to the east by the South China Sea – or the East Sea, as the Vietnamese call it. To the north and south of its narrow waist, it fantails out into the splendid deltas of the Red River and the Mekong, and it’s in these regions that you’ll encounter the paddy fields, dragonflies, buffaloes and conical-hatted farmers that constitute the classic images of Vietnam.

In stark contrast to the pancake-flat rice land of the deltas, Ha Long Bay’s labyrinthine network of limestone outcrops loom dramatically out of the Gulf of Tonkin – a magical spectacle in the early morning mist. Any trip to the remote upland regions of central and northern Vietnam is likely to focus on the ethnic minorities who reside there. Elaborate tribal costumes, age-old customs and communal longhouses await those visitors game enough to trek into the sticks. As for wildlife, the continued discoveries of previously unknown species of plants, birds and animals speaks volumes for the wealth of Vietnam’s biodiversity and makes the improving access to the country’s national parks all the more gratifying.

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Fact file

The Socialist Republic of Vietnam, the capital of which is Hanoi, is one of the world’s last surviving one-party Communist states. The others include China, North Korea, Laos and Cuba.

Vietnam has a population of 96 million, of which around two-thirds live in the countryside, giving Vietnam one of the highest rural population densities in Southeast Asia. Despite this, the country has a literacy rate of around 95 percent.

Tourist numbers to Vietnam have risen from just two million in 2000 to almost ten million before the Covid-19 crisis hit.

The Vietnamese language is the only language in Indochina to use a Romanized script. However, its complex use of diacritical marks and six separate vocal tones make it very difficult for foreigners to learn.

The Vietnam War is known to Vietnamese as the American War to distinguish it from other unwelcome incursions by the French, the Chinese and the Japanese.

The motorbike is the preferred form of transport for around ninety percent of Vietnamese; there are currently about forty million motorbikes on the road (including 7.5 million in HCMC alone).

In 2013 Vietnam became the world’s largest exporter of cashew nuts, though it has since lost its crown to India. It also ranks number two globally for coffee production, and number four for rice exports.

Though the ao dai is universally recognized as Vietnam’s national dress, it did not come into popular use until the 1930s.

Vietnam is home to a tremendous diversity of plant and animal life, including some of the world’s rarest species, such as the Asiatic black bear, Sarus crane and golden-headed langur.

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Trieu Chau Assembly Hall, Hoi An

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Where to go

Vietnam is bigger than you might assume – if you want to travel the length of the country at some leisure, see something of the highlands and the deltas and allow for a few rest days, you’ll really need a month. With only two weeks at your disposal, you can hopscotch between the main draws along the coast, or – perhaps better – concentrate on one region and enjoy it at your own pace. Internal flights can speed up an itinerary substantially, and aren’t too expensive.

For the majority of visitors, Ho Chi Minh City provides a head-spinning introduction to Vietnam. The city’s breakneck pace of life translates into a stew of bizarre characters and unlikely sights and sounds, and ensures that almost all who come here quickly fall for its singular charm.

Easily reached from Ho Chi Minh City is the Mekong Delta, where one of the world’s truly mighty rivers finally offloads into the South China Sea; its skein of tributaries and waterways has endowed the delta with a lush quilt of rice paddies and abundant orchards. Tucked away to the west of the delta, Phu Quoc Island is the perfect place to rest after the rigours of a road journey through Vietnam, or as a quick escape by plane from Ho Chi Minh City.

Sitting at an altitude of 1500m, Da Lat is the usual gateway to the central highlands, and the fresh breezes that fan this oddly quaint hillside settlement provide the best natural air-conditioning in Vietnam. To sense the region’s remoteness you’ll need to push further north to the modest cities of Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku and Kon Tum, which are surrounded by E De, Jarai and Bahnar communities.

Heading northeast of Ho Chi Minh City, Highway 1 is the country’s jugular, and carries the lion’s share of traffic up towards Hanoi. For many, the first stop is at the delightful beach and sand dunes of Mui Ne, which is fast becoming one of Vietnam’s top coastal resorts. Further north, Nha Trang offers the chance to party all night and sleep all day, or explore idyllic beach hideaways. North again, Quy Nhon is one of the country’s least touristed beach resorts, while the memorial at Son My village near Quang Ngai commemorates one of the ghastliest incidents in the American War.

Once a bustling seaport, the diminutive town of Hoi An perches beside an indolent backwater, its narrow streets of wooden-fronted shophouses and weathered roofs making it an enticing destination; just inland, the war-battered ruins of My Son, the greatest of the Cham temple sites, lie mouldering in a steamy, forest-filled valley. Da Nang, just up the coast, lacks Hoi An’s charm, but good sleeping and eating options make it a convenient base for the area. From Da Nang, an extremely scenic train ride along the Hai Van Pass brings you to the aristocratic city of Hue, where the Nguyen emperors established their capital in the nineteenth century on the banks of the languid Perfume River; the temples and palaces of this highly cultured city still testify to these past splendours.

Only 100km north of Hue, the tone changes as war sites litter the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) which once cleaved the country in two. There’s then little to detain you on the northward trek to Hanoi, bar the glittering limestone caverns of Phong Nha, which include the world’s largest known cave. Then, on the very fringes of the northern Red River Delta, lie the ancient incense-steeped temples of Hoa Lu and, nearby, the mystical landscapes of Tam Coc and Van Long, where paddy fields lap at the feet of limestone hummocks.

Anchored firmly in the Red River Delta, Hanoi has served as Vietnam’s capital for over a thousand years. It’s a decidedly proud city – think pagodas and dynastic temples, tamarisk-edged lakes and boulevards lined with French-era villas – but it’s also being swept along by the tide of change as Vietnam forges its own shiny, high-rise capital.

From Hanoi, you can strike out east to spend a leisurely day or two drifting among the thousands of whimsically sculpted islands anchored in the aquamarine waters of Ha Long Bay; its most appealing gateway is mountainous Cat Ba Island, which defines the bay’s southwestern limits.

To the north and west of Hanoi lie dramatic mountain landscapes, which are home to a patchwork of ethnic minorities. The bustling market town of Sa Pa, set in a spectacular location close to the Chinese border, makes a good base for exploring nearby minority villages. Southwest of Hanoi, the stilthouse-filled valley of Mai Chau offers opportunities to stay in a minority village.

Water puppets

Vietnam’s unique contribution to the world of marionettes, water puppetry is a delightfully quirky form of theatre in which the action takes place on a stage of water. The tradition was spawned in the rice paddies of the northern Red River Delta, where performances still take place after the spring planting. Obscured by a split-bamboo screen, puppeteers standing waist-deep in water manipulate the wooden puppets which are attached to the end of long poles concealed beneath the surface. Dragons, ducks, lions, unicorns, phoenixes and frogs spout smoke, throw balls and generally cavort on the watery stage – miraculously avoiding tangled poles. In the more sophisticated productions staged for tourists in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, even fireworks emerge to dance on the water, which itself takes on different characters, from calm and placid to seething and furious, during naval battles.

When to go

Vietnam has a tropical monsoon climate, dominated by the south or southwesterly monsoon from May to September, and the northeast monsoon from October to April. Within this basic pattern there are marked according to altitude and latitude.

In southern Vietnam the dry season lasts from December to late April or May, and the rains from May through to November; most rain falls in brief afternoon downpours, though flooding can cause problems in the Mekong Delta and central highlands. Daytime temperatures in the region rarely drop below 20°C, occasionally hitting 40°C during the hottest months (March to May).

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Poshanu Cham Tower in the old Kingdom of Champa, Phan Thiet

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Along the central coast the rainfall pattern reverses under the influence of the northeast monsoon. Around Nha Trang the wet season is relatively short (November to December); further north, around Hue and Da Nang, the rains last a bit longer, so it pays to visit these two cities in the spring (February to May). Temperatures reach their maximum (often in the upper 30°C) from June to August, when it’s pleasant to escape into the hills. The northern stretches of this coastal region experience a shorter rainy season (peaking in September and October) and a hot, dry summer. The coast of central Vietnam is the zone most likely to be hit by typhoons, bringing torrential rain and hurricane-force winds (generally between August and November).

Northern Vietnam sees fairly chilly winters (December to March), accompanied by persistent mists that can last for several days. Temperatures then build to summer maximums, which occasionally hit 40°C between May and August, and this is also the rainy season, when heavy downpours render the low-lying delta area almost unbearably hot and sticky, and flooding is a regular hazard. In the northern mountains temperatures are cooler and higher regions see ground frosts during the winter.

With such a complicated weather picture, there’s no one particular season to recommend as the best time for visiting Vietnam. Overall, autumn (September to December) and spring (March and April) are probably the most favourable seasons if you’re covering the entire country.

Average temperature and rainfall

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Ho Chi Minh City

Temperature (°C) 27 28 29 30 29 29 28 28 27 27 27 27

Rainfall (mm) 15 3 13 43 221 330 315 269 335 269 114 56

Da Nang

Temperature (°C) 22 23 24 27 29 30 30 30 28 26 25 23

Rainfall (mm) 102 31 12 18 47 42 99 117 447 530 221 209

Hanoi

Temperature (°C) 17 18 20 24 28 30 30 29 28 26 22 19

Rainfall (mm) 18 28 38 81 196 239 323 343 254 99 43 20

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

From the breathtaking remoteness of the mountain communities in the north to the bustling floating markets of the Mekong, our author travelled by bike, bus, boat and on foot to cover every corner of Vietnam for this new edition. Aside from the major sights, here are their personal picks.

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Children playing in Thanh Hoa

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Spectacular views Between Dong Van and Meo Vac in the country’s extreme north, the mountain road snakes through the Ma Pi Leng Pass, where the views down to the Nho Que River and across into China will make you gasp (see page 337).

Rural life The Bong Lai Valley is a gloriously far-flung destination, where rural life continues much as it has for generations, with a remote homestay or rustic restaurant the only concession to tourism (see page 260).

Stilthouse stays The Pu Luong Nature Reserve is as yet comparatively unknown to outsiders, so you can trek amid magnificent rice terraces, help prepare a tasty dinner and bed down in a stilthouse without swarms of foreigners spoiling the experience (see page 262).

Hoi An delicacies Little Hoi An has an almost bewildering selection of mouth­wateringly good restaurants, but Morning Glory just about takes the biscuit. For a reasonable price you can eat your fill of superbly prepared Hoi An specialities – only this time in an elegant restaurant (see page 218).

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Bánh mì (Vietnamese sandwich)

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Musical performances You will be mesmerized by ca tru, an ancient form of chamber music that is described by Unesco as an intangible heritage, at weekly performances in Hanoi (see page 307).

Ho Chi Minh City nights Sip a cocktail with a sunset view from one of HCMC’s venerable old hotels, prom with the locals along newly gentrified Nguyen Hue (see page 88), then hunt down one of the city’s wonderful speakeasy bars.

Banh mi Don’t leave Vietnam without trying this quintessential street snack – a baguette filled with a choice of meats and whatever other goodies the vendor is carrying in their portable stand (see page 62).

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25

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Vietnam has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights: outstanding scenery, lively festivals, ancient sites and colonial architecture. Each entry has a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more. Coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide section.

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1 Hoi An

See page 212

With its rich cultural heritage, beautifully preserved merchants’ houses and slow pace of life, Hoi An is a captivating place to spend a few days.

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2 Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark

See page 335

Vietnam’s most impressive mountainscapes are located in remote Ha Giang province, near the Chinese border.

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3 Da Lat

See page 161

The pretty, occasionally chilly hill-town of Da Lat is the de facto travel capital of Vietnam’s beautiful central highlands.

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4 Cu Chi tunnels & Cao Dai Temple

See pages 109 & 109

So tiny are the Cu Chi tunnels that it’s hard to believe they were inhabited during the war. They’re easily visited in combination with the colourful high temple of Vietnam’s most charismatic indigenous religion.

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5 Beer

See pages 105 & 307

Experience both sides of Vietnam’s take on beer – hit Hanoi’s bia hoi stalls for some of the world’s cheapest draught, then try some fancy ales in one of Ho Chi Minh City’s craft-beer dens.

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6 The citadel, Hue

See page 234

The former capital’s historic citadel, mausoleums and gardens are idiosyncratic enough to impress even the most jaded traveller.

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7 Water puppets

See page 10

Enjoy a performance of mua roi nuoc, an art form developed in the Red River Delta around Hanoi.

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8 Express silk tailoring

See page 219

Visit one of the many Hoi An tailors who can rustle up a made-to-measure silk dress or suit in just a few hours.

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9 Mount Fan Si Pan

See page 322

Ride the record-breaking cable car from Sa Pa and stand on top of Vietnam’s highest mountain.

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10 Chill out on Phu Quoc

See page 150

Beaches lined with coconut trees circle this holiday island, whose surrounding waters provide some of the finest snorkelling in Vietnam.

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11 Po Klong Garai

See page 194

These beautifully preserved brick towers are probably the finest example of Cham architecture in the country.

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12 Tam Coc

See page 263

Slow the pace down with a boat trip in the countryside among dramatic karst landscapes.

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13 Ethnic markets

See pages 324 & 325

Spectacular traditional dress and a lively atmosphere make the ethnic minority markets a must – especially those in Bac Ha and Can Cau.

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14 Cycling around Chau Doc

See page 129

This is the way to enjoy the Mekong Delta – pedalling between rice fields on the cusp of Cambodia, surrounded by classic Vietnamese scenery.

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15 A boat trip in Ha Long Bay

See page 279

The thousands of limestone islands jutting out of these smooth waters have been dubbed the eighth natural wonder of the world.

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16 Tet

See page 69

The most important festival in the Vietnamese calendar, Tet sees the New Year ushered in with colourful flower markets, spectacular fireworks and exuberant dragon dances.

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17 Ride the rails

See page 53

Put honking bus journeys out of your mind as you kick back and relax on the leisurely train journey between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi – or even just a few segments of the full two-day-long trip.

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18 Colonial architecture

See pages 88 & 293

The legacy of French rule can be found in umpteen impressive examples of colonial architecture, such as the opera houses in Hanoi and HCMC.

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19 Hanoi’s quirky cafés

See page 305

Vietnam is one of the world’s biggest producers of coffee, and its capital city has a series of highly characterful (and, in some cases, charmingly hidden) places to enjoy it in the local style.

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20 Adventure sports

See page 272

Kitesurfing, kayaking and mountain biking are just a few of the heart-pumping activities awaiting thrill-seekers, though rock climbing in Cat Ba is perhaps the highlight.

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21 Pho

See page 62

Make friends with pho – usually eaten for breakfast, this is Vietnam’s slurpworthy signature dish.

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22 Bahnar villages

See pages 174 & 366

Spend the night in a thatched communal house (rong), where timeless ceremonies are performed and village decisions made.

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23 Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue

See page 242

Vietnamese temples and pagodas reflect the country’s diverse range of religions: Thien Mu Pagoda in Hue is a good example.

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24 Street food

See page 305

Soak up the atmosphere at a street kitchen, and have your plate piled high with a selection of fresh food for next to nothing – Hanoi is your best bet.

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25 Nha Trang

See page 196

Take a snorkelling trip in the crystalline waters of the outlying islands around Nha Trang, or simply chill out on the beach.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

The following itineraries will take you right around Vietnam, combining the classic tourist sites and busy cities with laidback beaches, quiet temples and remote mountain villages, where you’d be hard-pushed to find another visitor. Don’t worry about seeing everything – each of these routes will give you a good taste of the country.

The grand tour

The classic tour for visitors to Vietnam, and with good reason – following this route gives you easy access to superb historical sights, high-octane nightlife, pristine beaches, mountain-dwelling minority groups and much more. It can easily eat up the full month of your visa.

1 Ho Chi Minh City Although it’s not the capital, most would agree that this buzzing, cosmopolitan city is the true hub of Vietnam – its range of bars, restaurants, shops and hotels is unsurpassed. See page 80

2 Da Lat This mile-high mountain city is highly popular with travellers, and not just for its fresh air or cooler temperatures. Its relaxed atmosphere lends itself to a leisurely exploration of nearby sights, which include some wonderful minority villages. See page 161

3 Mui Ne It’s all about the beach at Mui Ne, a curl of sand now fringed with top-drawer resorts. Even so, there are still a few cheap places to stay and a couple of bars maintaining that old-fashioned backpacker vibe. See page 190

4 Nha Trang Another place famed for its beach life, but with a totally different character. This is one of Vietnam’s party capitals, with bars galore attracting revellers with astonishingly long happy hours. Those who wake up before nightfall can hit the nearby Cham ruins, then sink into a mud bath. See page 196

5 Hoi An This small city draws almost universally positive reactions from visitors. Its food is the best in the country, its lantern-lit buildings are truly spellbinding at night, the nearby sea is great for diving and the majestic Cham ruins of My Son are close by. See page 212

6 Hue Notably relaxed for its size, Hue was the capital of Vietnam’s last dynasty, the Nguyen empire. Cross the Perfume River to the old Imperial City, a maze of opulent buildings that were home to emperors as recently as 1945. See page 232

7 Hanoi The Vietnamese capital provides a truly startling contrast to Ho Chi Minh City, with a far more traditional air and some superb examples of colonial-era architecture. That said, its bars and restaurants are excellent too. See page 282

8 Ha Long Bay There are few better ways to round off a Vietnamese tour than with a trip to Ha Long Bay, a dizzying mass of limestone peaks jutting from the sea. Most visitors spend a night at sea on a wooden junk after a feast of seafood and cocktails. See page 279

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Unseen Mekong Delta

Eager to leave the tourist hordes behind? You’ll rarely spot another foreigner at the following locations, and the whole lot can be seen in the space of a week.

1 Sa Dec flower nurseries Apart from being the former home of French novelist Marguerite Dumas, Sa Dec is the base of over a hundred flower nurseries. See page 126

2 Hang Pagoda near Tra Vinh This Khmer-style pagoda, painted in subtle pastel shades, is home to hundreds of storks roosting in the treetops. See page 123

3 Ca Mau Peninsula Hit Vietnam’s southernmost point, where an observation tower offers views over mangrove swamps and the endless ocean. See page 141

4 Highway 63 This narrow road from Ca Mau to Rach Gia passes classic delta scenes of commerce being conducted on canals and locals crossing precarious monkey bridges. See page 143

5 Tra Su Bird Sanctuary Located near Chau Doc, this bird sanctuary is a wonderland of cajuput trees and waterways covered with lily pads, which attract flocks of birds. See page 133

6 Hon Chong Peninsula The beach doesn’t compare with those on Phu Quoc, but it’s perfect on weekdays when you might be the only one swinging in a hammock beneath the casuarina trees. See page 149

Ethnic culture tour

Most of Vietnam’s 53 official ethnic minority groups live in the rugged hills of the north, and a circular journey from Hanoi passes several of the most interesting groups. It’s possible to get around the north in a week, though a fortnight would allow more time for relaxing.

1 White Thai in Mai Chau Women with waist-length hair don traditional costumes and perform lively song and dance routines, then invite guests to share a huge jar of rice wine. See page 331

2 Black Thai in Son La The most remarkable aspect of Black Thai clothing is the headdress, which features delicately embroidered panels. See page 329

3 Red Dao near Sa Pa Easily spotted by their bright red headgear, the Red Dao are one of the most colourful indigenous groups in the north and cling fiercely to their traditional ways. See page 318

4 Flower Hmong around Bac Ha These are hands down the north’s most flamboyant dressers, and the women are constantly looking for new accoutrements at local markets. See page 324

5 White Hmong near Dong Van Bright satins and sequins are highly favoured by this group, who live in one of the north’s most inhospitable, yet also stunningly scenic, settings. See page 336

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Basics

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A boat ride in Cua Dai, Hoi An

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Getting there

The number of international flights heading to Vietnam has been steadily increasing for years now – a fair sign of the country’s burgeoning popularity as a tourist destination. The vast majority of visitors fly into Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, though there are also direct services to Da Nang, Hai Phong, Nha Trang, Can Tho and Phu Quoc (largely from Asian airports). However, a fair chunk of visitors still take the cheaper option of an indirect flight routed through Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong; a stay in one of these cities can be factored into your schedule, often at no extra cost.

You may well save even more by taking a bargain-basement flight to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Singapore, and a separate ticket through one of the region’s low-cost carriers, such as Jetstar (http://jetstar.com) and AirAsia (http://airasia.com), for the Vietnam leg.

Major long-haul airlines usually fly in and out of both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. They can sometimes sell you an open-jaw ticket, which allows you to fly into one city and out of the other, leaving you to travel up or down the country under your own steam; even if they don’t, the connecting leg can be dirt cheap if booked in advance. Vietnam Airlines (http://vietnamairlines.com) is the national flag-carrier, and currently flies to over fifty destinations in almost twenty countries; it’s a quality operator, and part of the SkyTeam group.

Airfares always depend on the season, with the highest generally being July to August, during the Christmas and New Year holidays and around Tet, the Vietnamese New Year; fares drop during the shoulder season (September to mid-December) and the low season (January to June), when you’ll get the best prices.

You can often cut costs by going through a specialist flight agent – either a consolidator, who buys up blocks of tickets from the airlines and sells them at a discount, or a discount agent, who in addition to dealing with discounted flights may also offer special student and youth fares and a range of other travel-related services such as travel insurance, rail passes, car rentals, tours and the like.

Lastly, combining Vietnam with other Southeast Asian countries is becoming increasingly popular – and a lot cheaper and easier – thanks to some good-value regional air deals.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Vietnam Airlines (http://vietnamairlines.com) flies from London to Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi (both around 12hr); there are no direct flights from Ireland. Note that you may save money by flying with a Middle Eastern or Southeast Asian carrier such as Qatar (http://qatarairways.com), Emirates (http://emirates.com), Malaysia Airlines (http://malaysiaairlines.com) or Singapore Airlines (http://singaporeair.com), via the airline’s hub city.

Good places to look for the best deals are the travel sections of weekend newspapers, and in regional listings magazines. Students and under-26s can often get discounts through specialist agents such as STA (http://statravel.co.uk) or USIT in Ireland (http://usit.ie). Whoever you buy your ticket through, check that the agency belongs to the travel industry bodies ABTA or IATA, so that you’ll be covered if the agent goes bust before you get your ticket.

Flights from the US and Canada

Amazingly, no direct flights exist between Vietnam and North America – studies have shown that LA to Ho Chi Minh City is the busiest air route in the world lacking a direct service. In 2004, United Airlines (http://united.com) broke a flight embargo in place since 1975, but their service (which ran via Hong Kong) was discontinued in 2016. At the time of research, Vietnam Airlines (http://vietnamairlines.com) were preparing to make their first-ever foray into US airspace – San Francisco from Ho Chi Minh City (16hr 30min). Failing that, you’ll have to catch one of the many flights to a regional hub (such as Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong), and continue from there.

Note that some routes require an overnight stay in another city, and often a hotel room will be included in your fare – ask the airline and shop around, since travel agents’ policies on this vary. Even when an overnight stay is not required, going to Vietnam can be a great excuse for a stopover somewhere: many airlines will allow you one free stopover in either direction.

Flights from Australia and New Zealand

Direct flights between Australia and Vietnam have increased in frequency after years of surprisingly poor supply. Vietnam Airlines (http://vietnamairlines.com) and budget airlines Bamboo Airways (http://bambooairways.com) and Jetstar (http://jetstar.com) operate routes from Ho Chi Minh City to Melbourne and Sydney (both 8–9hr); Vietnam Airlines also has a direct service linking Hanoi and Sydney, while Bamboo Airways link Hanoi and Melbourne. You can also take advantage of the profusion of cheaper alternate routes, making use of the region’s other budget airlines – you can fly AirAsia (http://airasia.com), Cebu Pacific (http://cebupacificair.com) or Jetstar all the way via Southeast Asia. The resulting competition means that you can often get decent deals on proper airlines, with tickets on Malaysia Airlines (http://malaysiaairlines.com), Singapore Airlines (http://singaporeair.com) and Thai Airways (http://thaiairways.com) via Bangkok all very reasonable if you book at the right time of year.

There are no direct flights from New Zealand, and budget-airline options are a little more restrictive; AirAsia (http://airasia.com) fly from Auckland to Kuala Lumpur and thence to Vietnam, but you’ll often get cheap-as routings via Australia too. As for flag carriers, low-season fares with Malaysia Airlines, Thai Airways, Qantas (http://qantas.com) and Singapore Airlines can all be quite affordable.

Flights from neighbouring countries

Regional air connections are becoming better and better – you can fly from many cities in Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia and Thailand, while options are also profuse from South Korea, Japan and mainland China. Budget options are increasing every year: from Singapore you can choose from Jetstar (http://jetstar.com), Scoot (http://flyscoot.com), Silk Air (http://silkair.com) and Vietjet Air (http://vietjetair.com), and from Bangkok you can try AirAsia (http://airasia.com), Jetstar, Lion Air (http://lionairthai.com), Nok Air (http://nokair.com) or Vietjet – and there are also plenty of options from Kuala Lumpur. As with all discount airlines, prices depend on availability, so the earlier you book the better. Otherwise, you’re dependent on flag carriers such as Cambodia Angkor Air (http://cambodiaangkorair.com) and Lao Airlines (http://laoairlines.com), though Vietnam Airlines (http://vietnamairlines.com) occasionally offers some competitive deals.

Overland

It’s usually simple to enter Vietnam overland from China, Laos or Cambodia, and this option means you can see more of the region than you would if you simply jetted directly into Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. All of these countries had particularly strict restrictions on entry during the Covid-19 crisis, so it will be essential to check the latest cross-border travel practicalities while planning your journey.

During regular (ie post-Covid-19) times, the border with China is usually open to foreigners at Lao Cai (see page 323), Thanh Thuy near Ha Giang (see page 334), Dong Dang near Lang Son (see page 341) and Mong Cai (see page 278). There were, prior to Covid-19, direct train services to Hanoi from Beijing (39hr); these left the Chinese capital on Thursdays and Sundays at 3.45pm, and there’s every chance that they’ll be reintroduced on the same schedule in due course. Failing that, it was also easy to get a high-speed train from more or less anywhere in China to the southern city of Nanning, and then catch the daily 6.10pm service to Hanoi (11hr). Three things to note, even if normal service is resumed – only soft-sleeper tickets are available on these cross-border trains; e-visas to Vietnam are often not accepted if travelling by rail (regular visas and visa exemptions are fine); and if travelling to China from Vietnam, you can board the train only in Hanoi, not near the border. It’s also possible to travel by train almost the whole way from Kunming to Hanoi, using Chinese trains between Kunming and Hekou (when they’re running, since there have been issues, but buses are available), and Vietnamese trains between Lao Cai and Hanoi; you’ll have to cross the border on foot, over a pretty river bridge. Always bring your passport when buying tickets in either country.

From Laos, six border crossings are usually open to foreigners: Lao Bao (see page 252), the easiest and most popular, some 80km west of Dong Ha; Cau Treo and Nam Can, to the north and northwest of Vinh (see page 261); Na Meo, northwest of Thanh Hoa (though this isn’t worth the hassle); Tay Trang, just west of Dien Bien Phu (see page 328); and Bo Y, northwest of Kon Tum (see page 176). While it’s perfectly possible – and cheaper – to use local buses to and from the borders, international bus services also run from Savannakhet and Vientiane to Hanoi, Dong Ha, Vinh, Da Nang and other destinations in Vietnam; these direct services are recommended, as reports of extortion or unnecessary difficulties continue to come in from those crossing independently.

From Cambodia you can travel by air-conditioned bus from Phnom Penh straight through to Ho Chi Minh City, via the Moc Bai crossing. Cheaper operators tend to use old buses and usually get you to switch at the border. Many tour companies in Phnom Penh or Ho Chi Minh City will be able to organize boat-plus-bus services, which are a fun way to make the trip (see page 97). There are two crossings in the Mekong Delta area – Vinh Xuong and Tinh Bien – which are respectively 30km north and 25km west of Chau Doc. There are also border crossings at Xa Xia, on the coast west of the delta, which is useful if you are heading to or from Kampot, Kep or Sihanoukville on the Cambodian coast, and at Le Thanh in the central highlands, making it possible to go from Banlung in northeast Cambodia straight through to Pleiku.

As long as you have a valid visa, crossing these borders is generally not a problem, though you may still find the odd Vietnamese immigration official who tries to charge a processing fee (typically $1); on the Lao and Cambodian sides, this bribe is usually around $5. Most border gates are open from around 7am to 5pm, and they may close for an hour over lunch.

Specialist tour operators abroad

Worldwide

Abercrombie & Kent UK 01242 547 760, US 1 800 554 7016, Australia 1300 797 010; http://abercrombiekent.co.uk. Renowned luxury tour specialist. Their trips featuring Vietnam only used to come as part of greater sojourns through Indochina, but Vietnam-specific tours are now available, including an 11-day option flying into Hanoi and out of Ho Chi Minh City (flights included as part of the package), and taking in all of the country’s big sights in between.

InsideVietnam UK 0117 244 3380, US 303 952 0379, Australia 07 3186 8800, http://insideasiatours.com. Well-run small-group or tailored individual packages from a quality operator now expanding its scope across Asia – tours of Vietnam can be combined with visits to Cambodia or Laos, though there are plenty of Vietnam-specific trips available, including an excellent two-week Greatest Hits tour, and an 18-day Rejuvenation option focusing on wellness and relaxation.

Intrepid Travel UK 0808 274 5111, US 1 800 970 7299, Australia 1300 364 512, New Zealand 0800 600 610; http://intrepidtravel.com. Affordable small-group trips, usually focusing on low-impact, cross-cultural contact. Tours can cover bits of Vietnam, the whole country or wider Indochina. They now cater to almost all budgets – in 2022, the outfit launched Intrepid Premium, a higher-end set of tour options, which it also has a Basix range for budget travellers.

World Expeditions UK 020 8545 9030, US & Canada 1 800 567 2216, Australia 1300 720 000, New Zealand 0800 350 354; http://worldexpeditions.com. Adventure company with a wide variety of programmes, including cycle tours from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City (14 days, thankfully not by bike the whole way), kayaking in Ha Long Bay, hiking excursions, and tours that offer a mix of the three adventurous disciplines. Also offers community project trips, where participants help renovate a local school, for example, and arrange charity challenges.

UK and Ireland

Exodus UK 020 3733 5532, http://exodus.co.uk. Adventure-tour operator taking small groups on specialist programmes that take in trekking, biking, kayaking and cultural trips. Their cycling excursions are particularly popular, and some of the routes on offer also include bits of Thailand, and pop by the Cambodian temples of Angkor.

G Adventures UK 020 7313 6936, http://gadventures.com. There are plenty of cross-Vietnam and wider Indochina tours on offer from this well-regarded operator – some include hiking, biking and kayaking, and even of these, some will be aimed at families, some at 18-to-30s, and some at culinary-focused tourists.

Imaginative Traveller UK 01728 862230, http://imaginative-traveller.com. Affordable, small-group adventure tours from a responsible travel operator – their food-based tours are particularly interesting.

Regent Holidays UK 0117 453 6915, http://regent-holidays.co.uk. Any operators that can organize good tours to North Korea will surely find Vietnam a piece of cake. Good-value, tailor-made tours available, as well as off-the-shelf itineraries like the twelve-day Highlights of Vietnam trip.

US and Canada

Artisans of Leisure 1 800 214 8144, http://artisansofleisure.com. Luxury private and individually tailored tours, ranging in length from six days to almost three weeks. Most tours stick to Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City, often including cooking classes and spa therapy sessions, though their 12-day Romantic Vietnam itinerary includes a few days in the blissful middle of nowhere.

Backroads 1 800 462 2848, http://backroads.com. Cycling and hiking trips linking Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, with the emphasis on going at your own pace – one of their options includes a boat trip down the mighty Mekong.

Journeys International 1 800 255 8735, http://journeysinternational.com. Prestigious, award-winning operator focusing on ecotourism and small-group trips. Most of their options featuring Vietnam are wider Indochina tours, but they do have a 10-day Vietnam-only trip on offer too.

VeloAsia 1 888 681 0808, http://veloasia.com. Indochina specialist with a range of organized and tailor-made cycling adventure tours – they’ve been getting tourists to Vietnam on their bikes since 1994. Their famed 12-day Highlights of Vietnam tour connects Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (not, of course, cycling the whole way), and they now also run a culinary tour led by an Iron Chef champion.

Visas and entry requirements

Most foreign nationals need a visa to enter Vietnam, though citizens of some Asian and European nations (including the UK, France, Germany, Italy and Spain) get 15–30 days visa-free, and Chilean citizens a whopping 90 days. E-visas can be issued fairly simply to citizens of most other nations (including Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the US), outside those from Africa or the Middle East, who are likely to have to apply for a regular visa in the standard manner.

Tourist visas, both regular and electronic, are generally valid for thirty days from your specified arrival date, though longer durations can be arranged; visitors can make their applications in any Vietnamese embassy or consulate, or through specialist visa or tour agents, but these days it’s more convenient for most people to get their e-visa online. If you apply in person at an embassy or consulate, processing normally takes around a week, though many embassies also offer a more expensive express service. By contrast, the normal service for an online visa is just two working days, and some agencies even quote fees for two working hours.

For the latest travel restrictions related to the Covid-19 pandemic, please check online at http://vietnam.travel/index.php/things-to-do/information-travellers-novel-coronavirus-vietnam.

Applying for a e-visa/visa on arrival

If you don’t qualify for a visa exemption, or simply need longer in the country than one would grant you, an e-visa (sometimes referred to as a visa on arrival) will usually be your best option. There are several websites offering Vietnamese visa online services; some, including authorised partners VFS Global (http://vietnam.vfsevisa.com), are more reliable than others. Though in reality more pre-arranged than on arrival, they can be helpful for people with no Vietnamese consulate in their home country, or those strapped for time – note that they can only be picked up at the major international airports (Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and also Da Nang, Hai Phong and Nha Trang), not at land border crossings. Prices start at US$20 plus a US$25 stamping fee for a one-month, single-entry visa, rising to US$70 plus US$50 stamping fee for a three-month, multiple-entry one. On receipt of your fee, you’ll be sent an approval letter to print out (physical copy required) and present to immigration on arrival, along with an application form (also available at airport desks), two photographs (40x60mm; they’ll take and print them at the airport for around US$10) and the stamping fee (payable in cash only, in US dollars or Vietnamese dong). The process is very efficient and requires only a short wait on arrival; if you follow this route, look out for the visa on arrival desk at the airport before you pass through immigration.

Applying through an embassy, consulate or travel agency

Standard visas cost $25–90, depending on where you apply (Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Jakarta are at the cheap and speedy end of the spectrum). Three-month visas are also available for $100 to $145; both types take three to ten days to process, though some agencies and embassies (see page 53) offer an express one-day service.

To apply for tourist visas, you have to submit an application form with one or two passport-sized photographs (procedures vary) and the fee. The visa shows specific start and end dates indicating the period of validity within which you can enter and leave the country. The visa is valid for entry via Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Da Nang international airports and any of Vietnam’s land borders open to foreigners (see page 51).

Business visas are valid for one month upwards and can be issued for multiple entry, though you’ll need a sponsoring office in Vietnam to underwrite your application.

One-year student visas are relatively easy to get hold of; for example, if you enrol on a Vietnamese language course at one of the universities, though you’ll be required to attend a minimum number of classes per week to qualify. It’s easiest to arrange it in advance, but you can enter Vietnam on a tourist visa and apply for student status later – the only downside is that you may have to leave the country in order to get the visa stamp.

Special circumstances affect overseas Vietnamese holding a foreign passport: check with the Vietnamese embassy in your country of residence for details.

Visa extensions

Thirty-day extensions can be arranged at travel agencies in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang, Da Nang, Hue and Hoi An. In general they take three days to process and cost from US$25 for the first one-month extension; since it’s easy to apply for a three-month visa in the first place, few visitors require this service.

Holders of business visas can apply for an extension only through the office that sponsored their original visa, backed up with reasons as to why an extension is necessary.

Overstaying your visa will result in a fine of US$10–25 per day, and is not recommended – border staff at the airport may well insist that you head back into whichever city you’re closest to, in order to pay the fine at a dedicated immigration office.

Vietnamese embassies and consulates

A full list of Vietnamese embassies and consulates is available at http://vietnamtourism.com.

Australia Timbarra Crescent, O’Malley, Canberra, ACT 2606 02 6286 6059; Suite 205, Level 2 Edgecliff Centre, 202–233 New South Head Rd, Edgecliff, Sydney, NSW 2027 02 9327 1912.

Cambodia 440a Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh 023 726 274; Sihanoukville 034 934 039; Road No.3, Battambang 053 952 894.

Canada 55 Mackay St, Ottawa K1M 2B2 613 236 0772, http://vietnamembassy.ca.

China 32 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang, Beijing 10 6532 1155; 2F B Building North, Landmark Hotel, Qiaoguang Rd, Guangzhou 20 8330 5916; 15F Great Smart Tower, 230 Wanchai Rd, Hong Kong 852 2835 9318; 507 Hong Ta Mansion, 155 Beijing Rd, Kunming 65001 871 351 5889.

Laos 23 Singha Rd, Vientiane 021 413 400; 31 Ban Pha Bat, Pakse 031 212 827; 118 Sisavangvong Rd, Savannakhet 06 212 418.

Malaysia 4 Persiaran Stonor, 50450 Kuala Lumpur 03 2148 4036.

New Zealand Level 21, Grand Plimmer Tower, 2 Gilmer Terrace, Wellington 04 473 5912, http://vnembassy-wellington.mofa.gov.vn.

Singapore 10 Leedon Park, Singapore 267887 06 462 5938.

Thailand 83/1 Wireless Rd, Bangkok 10330 02 251 5836; 65/6 Chatapadung, Khonkaen 40000 043 242 190.

UK 12–14 Victoria Rd, London W8 5RD 020 7937 1912, http://vietnamembassy.org.uk.

US 1233 20th St NW, Suite 400, Washington DC 20036 202 861 0737, http://vietnamembassy-usa.org; 1700 California St, Suite 430, San Francisco, CA 94109 415 922 1707, http://vietnamconsulate-sf.org.

Getting around

Though still a little rough around the edges, Vietnam’s transport network is continuing to improve. Most travel takes place on the roads, which are largely of decent quality surface-wise, though it must be said that almost every vehicle on them is seemingly overtaking or being overtaken at any given point in time – accidents are common.

The vehicles themselves are in pretty good condition, however, with air-conditioned coaches ferrying tourists (and an increasing number of locals) up and down Highway 1 – which is not really a highway at all, but a desperately narrow and shockingly busy thoroughfare that runs from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, passing through Hue, Da Nang and Nha Trang en route. Trains run all the way from Ho Chi Minh City in the south to Lao Cai on the Chinese border, and their sleeper berths are far more comfortable than buses for longer journeys. Lastly, the domestic flight network continues to evolve, and the cheap, comfortable services may save you days’ worth of travel by road or rail.

By plane

Flying comes into its own on longer journeys, and can save you precious hours, or even days – the two-hour journey between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, for instance, compares favourably with the two days you would spend on the train, and prices are often lower. Other useful, regular services from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City fly to Hue, Da Nang, Nha Trang and Phu Quoc Island, and there are now quite a few direct flights not involving the two main cities at all – Hue, Da Nang and Hai Phong have all become minor domestic hubs, as well as international terminals. Note that you’ll need your passport with you when taking internal flights.

The Vietnamese national carrier Vietnam Airlines (http://vietnamairlines.com) operates a reasonably cheap, efficient and comprehensive network of domestic flights, with both of the main hubs – Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi – linked to almost all major cities and destinations across Vietnam, bar the closest ones accessible to each by bus or train. Competition is keeping prices low on these domestic services, as a number of budget carriers have entered the arena, and an ever-growing middle-class is increasing demand across the board year-on-year – Jetstar (http://jetstar.com) now rivals Vietnam Airlines for local coverage, as does Vietjet Air (http://vietjetair.com). Lastly, Vasco (http://vasco.com.vn) also flies small prop-planes from Ho Chi Minh City to Con Dao and Ca Mau, but it’s better to book them through the company’s codeshare partner Vietnam Airlines.

By rail

Given the amazing prices and frequencies of the various bus services on offer, few travellers opt for the train. However, rail journeys are still well worth considering for several reasons. Firstly, bar the new highways, major roads tend to be lined in their entirety with ramshackle cafés, petrol pumps, snack stands and mobile phone shops, and if you take the train you’ll avoid these and actually see a bit of the countryside, since the tracks don’t always follow the roads. Secondly, you’ll be involved in far fewer near-collisions with trucks, motorbikes and dogs. Thirdly, you’re almost guaranteed to get talking to a bunch of friendly locals.

Vietnam Railways (http://dsvn.vn) runs a single-track train network comprising more than 2500km of line, stretching from Ho Chi Minh City all the way to the Chinese border. Much of it dates back to the colonial period, and though it’s gradually being upgraded, most of the services are still relatively slow. Keep a particularly close eye on your belongings on the trains, be especially vigilant when the train stops at stations, ensure your money belt is safely tucked under your clothes before going to sleep, and check that your luggage is safely stowed.

The most popular routes with tourists are the shuttle from Da Nang to Hue (2–3hr) – which provides a picturesque yet acceptably short sampler of Vietnamese rail travel – and the overnighters from Hue to Hanoi (11–16hr) and from Hanoi up to Lao Cai (for Sa Pa; 8–9hr).

Services

The country’s main rail line shadows Highway 1 on its way from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi, passing through Nha Trang, Da Nang and Hue en route. From Hanoi, three branch lines then strike out towards the northern coast and Chinese border. One line traces the Red River northwest to Lao Cai, just an hour by bus from Sa Pa and also the site of a border crossing into China’s Yunnan province; the rail on the Chinese side resumed service in 2014 after many years in disrepair, and though no trains actually cross the border here, taxis bridge the connection between the Chinese and Vietnamese networks. Another rail spur runs north to Dong Dang; this is the route taken by twice-weekly trains linking Hanoi and Beijing, though there are also daily services between Hanoi and Nanning. The third branch, a shorter spur, links the capital with Haiphong, and this route is good if you’re heading to or from Ha Long Bay.

There are half-a-dozen services heading daily between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (taking 30–40hr); they’re officially numbered SE1 to SE8, with even and odd numbers heading north and south respectively. Note that some roll into Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City at wretchedly early times in the morning, so pay attention when booking; the fantastic Seat 61 website (http://seat61.com) keeps its Vietnam train schedule information easy-to-read and up-to-date.

On the northern lines, three trains per day make the run from Hanoi to Haiphong (2hr 30min) and two go to Dong Dang (4hr 30min); there are also two night trains and a day service to Lao Cai (8–10hr). For those hoping to take the southern lines, there are two morning services from Ho Chi Minh City to Phan Thiet (3hr 30min), which is within easy moto-taxi distance of Mui Ne.

Trains usually leave on schedule from their departure points, and though delays can stack up further down the line, they’re rarely too severe – though Tet holidays are a notable exception to this rule.

Classes

When it comes to choosing which class to travel in, you may have a choice of seats or sleepers, but it’s usually wise to aim high. At the bottom of the scale are hard seats, which are just as they sound, though bearable for shorter journeys; these often filthy carriages, in which one may actually feel like a caged animal, are slowly being phased out. Soft seats offer more comfort and are now almost entirely set in air-conditioned carriages, some of which are double-decker; the newer berths sometimes have flatscreen TVs operating at an ear-splitting volume.

On overnight journeys, you’d be well advised to invest in a berth of some description. The hard-berth compartments are quite comfortable and have six bunks, three on either side – the cramped top ones are the cheapest, and the bottom ones the priciest. Linen is provided, though you may sometimes have to ask for fresh sheets if you’re joining a service that started elsewhere. Roomier soft-berth compartments, containing only four bunks, are always comfortable, particularly on the routes numbered SE1 to SE4. Luxury carriages are also still attached to some regular services between Hanoi and Da Nang, and their fancier fittings and comfier beds make them worth the splurge if you’re heading on one of the night routes from Hanoi to Lao Cai (for Sa Pa).

Facilities

Most trains now have air-conditioning, and are theoretically non-smoking; the rules are obeyed, by and large, in the sleeper rooms, though in hard-seat class even the guards may be puffing away.

All train carriages have toilets, which are usually fine, if a little grubby; many are squat in nature, and these are far more likely to be dirty and devoid of paper or running water. You’ll find proper sit-down toilets in the sleeper carriages, which are comparatively clean.

Simple meals are often included in the price of the ticket, but you might want to stock up with goodies of your own. You’ll also have plenty of opportunities to buy snacks from the carts that ply the aisles, and there are kiosks selling the same at more or less every station.

Tickets

It’s generally wise to book ahead – the further ahead the better – especially if you