Fodor's Vancouver & Victoria: with Whistler, Vancouver Island & the Okanagan Valley

By Fodor's Travel Guides

COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE:

• The most comprehensive selection of hotel reviews.
• In depth information on the nuts and bolts about traveling to and around Vancouver and Victoria and beyond.

TOURISM TRENDS:

• As of June 11, 2022 Canada has paused mandatory random testing for fully vaccinated passengers at Canadian airports (though mandatory random testing at land border points of entry continues for the time being). Pre-entry tests are not required for fully vaccinated travelers. All travelers must use ArriveCAN mobile app to provide mandatory travel and public health information before and after entry into Canada.

FULLY REDESIGNED!

• New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
• New back cover is fully-redesigned
• “Best of” Lists will visually engage the reader and provide an overview of the entire destination (best things to eat, see, do, drink, as well as what to read and watch before going)
• Visually focused with more color and images including more full and half-page images throughout and color-coded category icons
• Other useful features including Great Itineraries, Calendar of Events, Know Before You Go, and more
• “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) now at the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
• Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational

CURATED AND RELEVANT:

• Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.
• Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.

CONCISE:

• Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.

Please see additional key selling points in the book main description

• Language: English
• Publisher: Fodor's Travel
• Release date: Jul 11, 2023
• ISBN: 9781640976078

Fodor's Travel Guides

For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

Book preview

Chapter 1: Experience Vancouver and Victoria

20 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

Vancouver and Victoria offer terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

1 The Butchart Gardens

These world-renowned gardens have been drawing visitors to Vancouver Island since 1904. It employs 50 full-time gardeners to keep the millions of bedding plants and more than 900 varieties thriving. (Ch. 10)

2 Stanley Park Seawall

Walk or bike the paved pathway around Stanley Park. The world’s longest uninterrupted waterfront path stretches from Coal Harbour to Spanish Banks. (Ch. 3)

3 Whale-Watching

Thousands of whales migrate through these waters each year. Watching them is a favorite pastime on the west coast. (Ch. 3, 5, 10, 11 )

4 Seaplane Flight

Whether heading to Victoria, Tofino, or the Gulf Islands, this is an impressive way to enjoy the magnificent scenery of the Pacific Northwest. (Ch. 10, 11)

5 Storm-Watching in Tofino

Winter on the west coast brings the lashings of violent coastal storms and fury of unpredictable weather. Storm season is from November to March. (Ch. 11)

6 Granville Island Public Market

This popular public market is home to local farm stalls and stands selling fish, meat, flowers, cheeses, pasta, bread, and more. You’ll also find local artists selling their artisanal wares. (Ch. 5)

7 Kits Pool

Take a dip in Canada’s longest pool. Kits Pool stretches 137 meters (451 feet) along the shore of Kits Beach, attracting sunbathers, beach volleyball players, and walkers out for a stroll. (Ch. 6)

8 Paddle a First Nations Canoe

For an authentic First Nations experience, paddle up scenic Indian Arm in a traditional 7-meter (25-foot) ocean-going canoe. (Ch. 8)

9 Capilano Suspension Bridge

Set against the rain forest of Vancouver’s North Shore Mountains, this cedar-plank bridge is suspended 70 meters (230 feet) above the Capilano River. (Ch. 8)

10 Tea at the Empress

Afternoon tea is served around Victoria, but nowhere is it more memorable than at the Fairmont Empress Hotel. This is THE place to take afternoon tea in the capital city. (Ch. 10)

11 Sea to Sky Highway

Drive the Sea to Sky Highway along Howe Sound for a scenic experience. Stop in Squamish for a visit to the Stawamus Chief, one of the largest granite monoliths in the world. (Ch. 12)

12 Ferry Ride

There are plenty of opportunities to take a fun ferry ride—from the SeaBus between Vancouver and North Vancouver to the BC Ferry between Vancouver and Vancouver Island. (Ch. 11)

13 Polar Bear Swim

Every year, revelers take to the frigid waters of English Bay for the annual Polar Bear Swim. A New Year’s Day tradition, the event is one of the largest in the world. (Ch. 3)

14 Ski and Golf the Same Day

Known as the Whistler Phenomenon by locals, it’s possible to hit the slopes for a morning of skiing at Blackcomb, then stop for a round of golf in the afternoon. (Ch. 12)

15 Whistler

The PEAK 2 PEAK gondola ride between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains is breathtaking. The 11-minute trip is the highest of its kind and is at an elevation of 436 meters (1,430 feet). (Ch. 12)

16 Bard on the Beach

In summer, take a picnic to the billowing tents at Vanier Park to experience Western Canada’s largest Shakespeare festival. Time it for a night when there are fireworks. (Ch. 6)

17 Yoga on the Beach

This city is known for its outdoor activities including yoga on the beach. Often free or paid for by donation, these classes let you unwind in the sunshine near the beaches at English Bay or Kits. (Ch. 6)

18 Olympic Experience at the Richmond Oval

Visit the Richmond Oval, site of the speed skating competition during the 2010 Winter Olympics. The glass-and-steel building houses the Olympic ice rinks and a massive fitness center. (Ch. 9)

19 Museum of Anthropology

This museum, located at the University of British Columbia campus on Point Grey, has one of the country’s finest collections of Northwest Coast First Nations art. (Ch. 6)

20 Grouse Mountain Skyride Surf Adventure

To reach the top of Grouse Mountain, you can climb the Grouse Grind, or surf atop the Skyride gondola, part of the largest aerial tramway system in North America. (Ch. 8)

WHAT’S WHERE

dingbat Downtown, West End, and Stanley Park. Vancouver’s commercial heart includes most of the city’s high-fashion shops, major hotels, and transit hubs. It’s compact and easy to walk. Downtown borders the West End, a residential neighborhood that edges Stanley Park, a rain forest park with top-quality attractions, hikes, and views—all within blocks of the city skyscrapers.

dingbat Gastown, Chinatown, and Yaletown. These adjoining neighborhoods have ornamental architecture and alleyways that give clues to the city’s history. Yaletown, bordering False Creek, is best known for its specialty shops and eateries.

dingbat Granville Island. Vancouver’s most eclectic destination puts art alongside a giant produce and local food market, with floating homes and busker entertainment to boot.

dingbat West Side. This is the catchall name for the neighborhoods southwest of Downtown, including the university area of Point Grey; busy Cambie Corridor with two of the city’s loveliest gardens; trendy Kitsilano; and gallery-filled South Granville.

dingbat East Side. Once the city’s working-class heart, the rapidly changing areas southeast of Downtown are now home to the science museum, art galleries, eclectic shops, craft breweries, and multiethnic eateries. Main Street and Commercial Drive are two areas worth exploring.

dingbat North Shore. Across Burrard Inlet (on the North Shore) are residential and scenic West Vancouver and the more bustling North Vancouver. The mountains, your constant compass-point of reference, are the backdrop.

dingbat Richmond. This thriving city just south of Vancouver melds Pacific coast cultures from the historic fishing village of Steveston to Asian malls, night markets, and some of the best Asian food outside Asia.

dingbat Victoria. At the southern tip of Vancouver Island, British Columbia’s capital is a lovely, walkable city with waterfront paths, rambling gardens, and fascinating museums. In some senses remote, it’s roughly midway between Vancouver and Seattle and is about three hours by car and ferry from either city.

dingbat Vancouver Island. The largest island on North America’s west coast, Vancouver Island has a diverse landscape, with striking coastal scenery, vineyards, farms, and dense rain forests. Just outside Victoria, the island’s southwest coast around the town of Sooke offers remote beaches and forested hiking trails, while the Cowichan Valley to the north is the island’s wine country. The Pacific Rim region (on the island’s west coast) is known for its crashing waves and wildlife-watching opportunities. Of the two west coast towns, Tofino is a bit more established in terms of tourism, with upscale lodging and fine dining.

dingbat Whistler. Just 120 km (75 miles) north of Vancouver—about a two-hour drive along the stunning Sea to Sky Highway—Whistler is an outdoor paradise year-round. The two mountains, Whistler and Blackcomb, are the focus of activities. Whistler Village, at the mountains’ base, is a compact mecca of lodgings, restaurants, shops, and cafés where you can walk (or ski) to nearly all the town’s attractions.

dingbat Okanagan Valley. About a five-hour drive east from Vancouver, the Okanagan Valley is the fruit-growing capital of Canada and a major wine-producing area. The sandy lakeside beaches and hot, dry climate help make it a popular summer destination and magnet for wine enthusiasts. The valley stretches from Vernon through Kelowna and Penticton and south to Osoyoos.

Vancouver and Victoria Today

Separated from the rest of Canada by the Canadian Rockies, Vancouver and Victoria have always marched to a west coast rhythm that is in many ways more similar to Seattle, Portland, and even parts of California than to their Canadian counterparts. Add to this their proximity to the sea and coastal mountains, and you have winters that are mild, summers that are balmy, and landscapes that are lush with temperate forests and gardens. For example, there’s nowhere else in Canada where daffodils bloom in February. And despite Victoria’s old-English facades, these are young cities with active, outdoorsy, and health-conscious populations. Locals know how lucky they are to live in a place that is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful and livable in the world.

THE OUTDOORS RULE

Few cities have mountains, oceans, and pristine rain forests all on their doorstep. In both Vancouver and Victoria, locals take full advantage of these options and have also realized the incredible opportunities in promoting ecotourism. Whatever your age or ability, there’s a variety of activities to choose from, including family whale-watching excursions, golf, hiking, fishing, rafting, and no-holds-barred extreme wilderness adventures. Victoria is also a popular departure point for exploring the culinary and eco-adventures on Vancouver Island, while Vancouver is the gateway to sophisticated Whistler and the more rugged interior regions of British Columbia. It’s fair to say that all this fresh air makes for an extremely health-oriented population. Fitness clubs are common in many office and residential buildings, and smoking is prohibited in restaurants, bars, beaches, parks, and other public places.

ENTREPRENEURS ARE IN

The Vancouver Economic Commission, a city-run economic development agency, likes to boast about the region’s combination of natural beauty and brains. For example, when it comes to Meetup.com (the online network where people meet others with similar interests) groups in Vancouver, the largest draws hikers, while the second largest is for software developers. Indeed, city coffee shops are full of laptop-tapping mobile workers. While in the Gastown neighborhood, developers continue their conversion of once-seedy structures into offices for high-tech firms and design studios.

GREEN IS GREAT

West coasters are more eco-conscious than the average North American. New construction in this area usually involves eco-oriented practices from thermal heating to energy-saving fixtures. Rooftop gardens add to the relatively pristine air. And recycling is a daily ritual in business and at home. The area’s hotels were among the first to introduce green practices when they started installing dual-flush toilets (that’s two levels of flushes—not flushing twice) and asking guests to use towels more than once. Car-sharing services are commonplace, and bicycle lanes rule. Vancouver has the highest percentage of two-wheel commuters in Canada, and Victoria is also near the top of the list. Plus, many companies provide free or subsidized transit passes to employees who give up commuting by car. To do as the locals do, be sure to carry an eco-friendly water bottle and a reusable shopping bag (plastic shopping bags have been banned in Vancouver, and there is a fee for paper bags). Maximize your use of public transit with a Day Pass (C$10.50), which is good on the SeaBus, SkyTrain, and local buses. Another option? Rent a bike to explore on two wheels.

ETHNIC DIVERSITY IS EVERYWHERE

The west coast’s easy access to Pacific Rim destinations has generated a great influx of Asian immigrants, making Vancouver the most Asian metropolis outside of Asia. News is delivered in 22 different languages, while shops and ATMs post signs in English, Mandarin, Cantonese, Punjabi, Farsi, and even Vietnamese. Ironically, French, Canada’s other official language, is rarely seen or heard except on the two Radio Canada stations. This diversity creates a cultural mosaic that comes vibrantly to life in various festivals (such as the Celebration of Light), community activities (including the Richmond Night Market), and in a range of superb restaurants. While Victoria is less diverse, that’s beginning to change. The city’s population of visible minorities has been rising, and growing diversity remains on the upswing.

EAT LOCAL

Supporting local producers has always been part of the west coast lifestyle. So back in 2005, when two Vancouver writers originated the 100-mile diet, they didn’t expect it to catch on across North America—let alone the world. Look for neighborhood farmers’ markets, some of which are open year-round. One example is the Granville Island Market, which sells handcrafted island cheeses, organic meats, freshly caught fish, salmon jerky candy, homemade jams and honey, and seasonal fresh produce.

BE THE CHANGE

Vancouver is a city of activists and change-makers. In addition to being at the forefront of living green (there’s good reason the city has a reputation for being home to tree huggers always protesting pipelines), many folks here are also fighting to address homelessness, the fentanyl crisis, and reconciliation with First Nations communities. Local nonprofit organizations are building affordable housing and safe injection sites. Plus, most events start off with a land acknowledgment of the First Nations territory the event is taking place in.

BUZZWORTHY NEWS

Bike lanes, breweries, and the booming real estate business continue to make headlines in Vancouver, Canada’s third-largest city. As part of Vancouver’s Greenest City plan, which includes a significant increase in bike use, foot travel, and public transit, the city has been adding bike lanes throughout the Downtown core.

A fresh batch of breweries and distilleries is amping up Vancouver’s drinking scene and bringing local—long a food and wine catchphrase—to liquor. Thanks to changes in British Columbia’s alcoholic beverage laws, several small-batch distilleries and craft breweries have opened.

The city of Victoria has shaken off its reputation as a prim destination for proper afternoon teas and garden tours. Scones and snapdragons are still worthy draws, but active and culturally sophisticated Victoria residents (and visitors) are just as likely to be hiking or cycling, eating at hip eateries, and enjoying the city’s numerous festivals and cultural events.

Dogs rule in this part of the world, so expect to see packs of pooches tied to lampposts near coffee shops while their professional walker sips on a latte. You’ll also come across designated dog beaches, dog spas, and even coin-operated dog washes that clean Fido like a car. Modern Dog magazine originates in Vancouver and it’s been described as the Vogue for dog owners.

What to Eat in Vancouver and Victoria

NANAIMO BARS

Nanaimo bars, featuring a chocolate graham cracker coconut base, creamy custard in the middle, and chocolate ganache on top, are named for the Vancouver Island city. Find these treats at coffee shops and bakeries in Vancouver, on Vancouver Island, and on BC Ferries.

ICE CREAM

With 238 flavors to choose from, you’ll be spoiled for choice at La Casa Gelato on Venables Street—where the huge menu set a Guinness World Record in 2019. And local favorite Earnest Ice Cream, which launched in 2012, has quickly reached cult status with its rotating small batches that include vegan options.

DIM SUM

The Cantonese-style menu of bite-sized dumplings, steamed buns, rice noodle rolls, and pots of oolong tea is served midday at Asian restaurants around the city. This is especially true in the nearby suburb of Richmond, where you’ll find a collection of restaurants serving the speciality.

SUSHI

If there’s one thing Vancouverites are passionate about, it’s their sushi. Whether you’re at Miku for flame-seared aburi or Tojo’s, the birthplace of the California roll, sushi is serious business. And with a bounty of fresh seafood on its doorstep, Vancouver’s sushi scene is second only to Japan’s.

OYSTERS

From Kusshi to Fanny Bay to Kumamotos, west coast oysters are mild, sweet, smaller than other oysters, and are said to be great for the beginner. So if you’ve never tried one, now is the time and this is definitely the place to do it. Oyster bars around town include Fanny Bay Oyster Bar and Shellfish Market on Cambie Street in Downtown.

CHOCOLATE

There is no shortage of fabulous chocolates in Vancouver. Two must-visit shops include Rogers’ Chocolates, which opened in 1885 in a Victoria grocery store across the street from their current location. Another can’t-miss shop is Purdys, which opened in 1907 when former barber Richard Carmon Purdy started selling homemade chocolate in Downtown Vancouver. The chocolate hedgehogs are always a hit.

SPOT PRAWNS

Once mainly exported to Asia for use as a filler for fish stock and chowder, this humble crustacean is now a prized local delicacy and the focus of an entire annual festival that takes place each spring. The harvest season, which starts in May in BC’s coastal waters, typically lasts just six to eight weeks. If you’re visiting at this time, you’ll find the sweet shellfish on special menus around town.

WHITE SPOT LEGENDARY BURGER

This local burger joint has been around since 1928 when founder Nat Bailey transformed his Model T into Canada’s first food truck, serving hot dogs and peanuts at Lookout Point in Stanley Park. He opened his first location at the corner of Granville and 67th and then expanded to become Canada’s longest-running restaurant chain. The burgers are a legend among locals and feature secret Triple O sauce.

JAPADOG

A favorite of the late Anthony Bourdain, this street-food vendor offers hot dogs with a Japanese twist at stands and food trucks around Vancouver’s Downtown core, as well as restaurants on Robson Street, at the McArthurGlen Outlet Mall in Richmond and at YVR (there is now also a stand in LA). It’s popular with the film industry, celebrities, and locals. They all line up for the Oroshi, a bratwurst topped with a special soya sauce glaze and freshly grated daikon radish.

SALMON

Wild Pacific salmon—whether it’s maple-cured, cedar-planked, candied, barbecued, or smoked—is synonymous with the west coast. You can sample some at The Salmon House on the Hill in West Vancouver or in Steveston, once known as the salmon capital of the world.

What to Buy in Vancouver and Victoria

MAPLE SYRUP FUDGE

This treat is infused with real maple syrup (and not maple flavoring). Each box is filled with individually wrapped pieces that make a great gift. Purchase the treat at Olde World Fudge on Granville Island or at one of YVR’s duty-free shops.

CANDLES

Bring the scent of Vancouver home with one of the Vancouver Candle Co.’s beautiful artisanal designs made of premium soy wax and perfume-grade oils. You can find the candles at the company’s East Side studio (on Friday only) or at Chapters Indigo and other retailers around town.

FLUEVOGS

Step into the flagship store of venerable shoemaker John Fluevog in Gastown for some serious shoe business. Vancouver’s native son is the footwear king of this town, and his funky exaggerated heels and bright designs have garnered a cult following around the globe, including Hollywood celebrities.

OKANAGAN ICE WINE

Canada is now the largest producer of ice wine in the world, and the vineyards of the scenic Okanagan Valley region in the interior of BC are blessed with ideal conditions for producing this sweet amber nectar. Traditionally a dessert wine primarily made from Riesling grapes, the rich, concentrated liquid gold is produced from the juice of grapes naturally frozen on the vine and harvested in winter. Okanagan ice wines are internationally recognized and sought after around the world.

SALMON

Smoked, candied, maple-cured, or ice wine-glazed—take your pick. Few places in the world are as renowned for salmon as Vancouver. You can purchase this quintessential west coast staple freeze-packed for travel, or you can have it shipped worldwide from fish shops around the city, including those on Granville Island.

LOCAL ART

Exquisite coastal Native art, including paintings, masks, and carvings by northwest coast artists, can be purchased at galleries such as Circle Craft (a co-op of local BC artists selling paintings, ceramics, clothing, and jewelry), the Inukshuk Gallery on Granville Island (which sells Inuit sculptures), or at the Museum of Anthropology gift shop.

FIRST NATIONS JEWELRY

Contemporary in design, while still encompassing the ancient west coast Native legends of the raven, eagle, frog, whale, hummingbird, and wolf, handmade First Nations jewelry makes a wearable souvenir of your time on the west coast. The gift shop at the Vancouver Art Gallery and Artina’s Hand Crafted Canadian Jewellery in Victoria and Gastown offer a selection of exquisite, one-of-a-kind pieces by local artists.

ATHLETIC APPAREL

Vancouver is a pioneer of athleisure apparel. And you’ll find that many Vancouverites preferred clothing is athletic and yoga wear. Stop by lululemon for a pair of their famous stretchy black yoga pants at the original location on West 4th Avenue in Kits or the flagship store on Robson. Or get cozy in technical cashmere from sister company Kit and Ace, which was started by lululemon founder Chip Wilson’s wife and son.

CHOCOLATES

Chocolatiers have been perfecting their craft on the west coast for more than 100 years. Canada’s first chocolate company, Rogers’ Chocolates, has been making sweet treats in Victoria since 1885. The iconic Victoria creams now come in 19 different flavors. Purdy’s Chocolates, another long-time local favorite, opened in 1907 in Vancouver and now has shops all over Canada. Their distinctive purple-foiled boxes are a popular gift.

HUDSON’S BAY BLANKET

Pick up some beautiful multistriped blankets synonymous with the Hudson’s Bay Company at the Downtown Vancouver location of this iconic department store. The blankets were first traded to First Nations in the 1700s and are still very much in demand today.

Under the Radar in Vancouver and Victoria

NEON VANCOUVER

The Museum of Vancouver’s Neon Vancouver Ugly Vancouver, which moves to The Post building (former site of Canada Post) in 2023, explores the city’s neon golden age in the 1950s. That changed in the 1970s when a city law against neon distractions came into place.

THE 1931 GALLERY BISTRO CAFÉ

Don’t miss this gem of an eatery during your visit to the Vancouver Art Gallery. The menu rotates seasonally and features locally sourced ingredients. The patio, cascading down the art gallery steps, is a great spot to sip a glass of wine.

THE GALLEY PATIO & GRILL

You don’t have to sail to visit the Jericho Sailing Centre. Vancouver’s ocean community club on Jericho Beach is also the setting of a low-key patio grill and offers some of the best views of the city. Have a pub-style lunch of burgers, fish-and-chips, or fish tacos, washed down with a beer.

THE DIRTY APRON

This culinary academy, started by husband-and-wife team chef David and Sara Robertson, features a revolving menu of demo-and-dine or hands-on lessons for all skill levels. More than 10,000 students are taught each year, some as young as seven years old. At the on-site gourmet deli, sandwiches, cheeses, and charcuterie are served. A second location can also be found in YVR’s domestic terminal.

SINS OF THE CITY TOUR

Learn all about Vancouver’s dark past and history of drugs, prohibition, discrimination, and scandal on this walking tour offered by the Vancouver Police Museum. Visit the narrow alleys, secret underground passageways, and abandoned opium dens of Chinatown and Gastown to learn about the criminals and deeds that once plagued the city. Tours are free with admission to the museum, which includes fascinating exhibits, such as the former city morgue.

GHOSTLY WALKS

There’s more to Victoria than beautiful gardens and lavish afternoon tea. From the tunnels running underneath the city’s Chinatown to its reputation as BC’s most haunted town, the capital has a dark history. Learn about it on a 90-minute haunted Victoria ghost tour developed by one of Victoria’s foremost historians and storytellers, John Adams.

THE RENNIE COLLECTION

Vancouver real estate marketing mogul Bob Rennie, known about town as the city’s condo king, is also a prolific collector of art. His impressive private collection of contemporary art is housed in Chinatown’s oldest building, the Wing Sang at 51 East Pender, in a converted heritage property with great views from the grass-topped deck on the roof. The museum is open free to the public, by appointment only.

GLASS SIDEWALKS

Keep an eye out while walking around Downtown Victoria for purple prisms underfoot. The historic glass blocks date back to the late 19th century when they were installed in the sidewalks to allow sunlight to filter into the basements below. You can find them on Johnson Street, in front of the Sayward building on Douglas Street, near the Ritz Hotel on Fort Street, and at the Hamley building on Broughton Street.

THE WICKLOW

Located at Stamps Landing on the south side of False Creek, this cozy neighborhood pub with a patio has fantastic views overlooking False Creek. It’s a favorite of locals and boaters from the marina below. Grab a seat on the patio, and enjoy a bite (the menu items are all made in-house daily). For a uniquely Vancouver ride over, take the Aquabus to the dock from Yaletown, Science World, or Granville Island.

MAIN STREET MURALS

Beautiful street art created by local artists can be found around Main Street in Mount Pleasant. While the Vancouver Mural Fest takes place in August, you can see the murals year-round in this ever-evolving outdoor gallery.

Vancouver and Victoria with Kids

Vancouver and Victoria are great places to entertain children, especially ones who like the outdoors. Check the calendar for family-oriented special events, including the Vancouver International Children’s Festival in May and the Vancouver Folk Music Festival in July.

IN DOWNTOWN VANCOUVER

Allow a day to enjoy the kid-friendly activities in Stanley Park: the miniature train, aquarium, pool, water park, and beaches are great for all ages. And getting around this huge park—on a horse-drawn wagon or the park shuttle—is half the fun. Make sure you also plan a trip on the mini Aquabus ferry to Granville Island, home of North America’s largest free public water park and the Kids’ Market, a two-story complex of toy stores and play areas. The Granville Island market is a good place for lunch or snacking, and even the pickiest kids should be able to find something they like. You can check out the interactive displays at Science World, or hop a foot-passenger ferry to see one of the kid-friendly museums at Vanier Park: the Maritime Museum or the H.R. MacMillan Space Centre.

BEYOND DOWNTOWN

Outside Downtown Vancouver, the North Shore is a wilderness playground. Older kids will no doubt enjoy terrifying their parents by trying to wobble the Capilano Suspension Bridge (or the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge). The Treetops Adventure at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park and the salmon-spawning displays at the nearby Capilano Salmon Hatchery tend to be big hits, too. Take a Skyride trip up Grouse Mountain, where you can skate or take a sleigh ride in winter, or hike and visit the bear refuge in summer. For a day at the beach, head west to Spanish Banks or Locarno for warm, shallow water and wide stretches of sand. Kits Beach is busier, but it offers a playground and saltwater pool.

Don’t underestimate the entertainment power of public transportation. For a few dollars, a SeaBus ride across Burrard Inlet (a larger ferry than the Granville Island Aquabus) provides a water-level view of the harbor. Plus, the same ticket gets you on an elevated SkyTrain ride across town.

IN VICTORIA

Like Vancouver, Victoria has small foot-passenger ferries zigzagging across the harbor, and Fisherman’s Wharf, with its houseboats, seals, and fish-and-chips stands, is popular. Preschoolers are mesmerized by the tiny displays at Miniature World and charmed by the friendly critters at the Beacon Hill Park petting zoo. Older kids enjoy the Victoria Bug Zoo, the Royal British Columbia Museum, and shopping for allowance-priced souvenirs in Chinatown. Easy hikes, bike rides, and picnics are also popular. For serious what I did on my summer vacation material, you can’t beat a whale-watching trip. For a night out, try a movie at the IMAX theaters or the spectacular fireworks displays on summer evenings at The Butchart Gardens.

AT THE BUTCHART GARDENS

If The Butchart Gardens is on your Victoria to-do list, you can make a full day of it by meandering through the peninsula—Sea Cider (about a 10-minute drive from the ferry and about 15 minutes from the gardens) is the place for craft cider (for moms and dads) and delicious local fare. Nearby, the Shaw Centre for the Salish Sea has amazing touchy-feely exhibits to entertain everyone from 8 to 80 years old.

Free and Almost Free

The best things in life are free, and a surprising number of them are in and around Vancouver, Victoria, and Whistler. In fact, most of what’s enjoyable in this part of the world—including beaches, parks, hiking trails, interesting architecture, great views, and fun-and-funky neighborhoods—is available without charge.

VANCOUVER

In Vancouver, you can visit Stanley Park, Granville Island, Downtown, Gastown, Chinatown, and Yaletown and rarely have to open your wallet to pay admission fees. Granville Island’s markets and galleries are all free, as are Canada Place and Stanley Park.

A stroll along the many waterfront walkways around town is also free. Choose from the Seawall, Richmond’s Dyke, or Ambleside Beach in West Vancouver, or head off the water along the Arbutus Greenway on the West Side. For a more strenuous hike, try the grueling Grouse Grind up Grouse Mountain–it’s free, although you do need to pay $10 for the gondola ride back down.

Take a scenic drive along the breathtaking Sea to Sky Highway, or watch cruise ships glide by from Dundarave Pier in West Vancouver—a great spot to get iconic views of Downtown, the Lions Gate Bridge, and Stanley Park.

On Tuesday evening between 5 and 9, the Vancouver Art Gallery charges admission by donation. In North Vancouver, most visitors head for the fun, if pricey, Capilano Suspension Bridge. But a few miles away, the equally thrilling Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, in Lynn Canyon Park, is free. It might be a bit of a trek, but also free on the North Shore is the Capilano Salmon Hatchery, where you can learn about the life cycle of salmon (and in fall, watch them struggling upstream to spawn).

VICTORIA

In Victoria, Beacon Hill Park or any of the city’s parks and beaches are free, as are most of the city’s iconic buildings. A stroll through the public areas of the Fairmont Empress Hotel or a guided tour of the Parliament Buildings won’t cost a dime. The Inner Harbour Walk has views of Victoria’s Edwardian architecture, boats, and seaplanes, and offers great people-watching. You can even watch the foot-passenger ferries perform a 12-minute water ballet (Sunday, 10:45 am, May through September; Saturday, 10:45 am, July and August).

BARGAINS IN WHISTLER?

Even in jet-setting Whistler, you can find a few bargains. In the village, you can make like the glitterati for the price of a latte. Start with people-watching from a café patio, enjoy the street entertainers, then move on to a stroll through the village’s half dozen or so art galleries. Even the village shuttle buses are free.

What to Read and Watch

Vancouver’s cultural scene is defined by ironies. Yes, it’s nicknamed Hollywood North, but a surprisingly slim number of major movies are actually set here. Vancouver stars as foreign cities far more often than it stars as itself. And even as its writerly reputation grows, with numerous underground publishing studios and book festivals, only a few BC-based authors are true household names. Indeed, Vancouver’s independent filmmaking and literature communities demand closer inspection, with inventive and genre-blurring works that illuminate the plural identities of this west coast metro.

CITY OF GLASS BY DOUGLAS COUPLAND

One of Vancouver’s most prolific writers, Douglas Coupland muses about the quirks and cultural touchstones of his home base in City of Glass, a love letter in the form of short essays on everything from sushi to ferries. First published in 2000 and updated in 2009, this playful title takes a cue from the design of Japanese zines and fills its pages with more than 100 photographs, archival images, illustrations, and maps.

DO NOT SAY WE HAVE NOTHING BY MADELEINE THIEN

Madeleine Thien’s third book affirms the Vancouver native’s place as one of Canada’s greatest living writers. This sweeping historical novel opens with Thien’s narrator ruminating on a chapter of her childhood in Vancouver when she and her mother opened up their home to a refugee who was fleeing the Chinese government’s crackdown after the Tiananmen Square massacre. Thien’s musical prose dances through subplots that span three generations and two continents. It’s a beautiful saga that’s haunted by the ghosts of the Cultural Revolution and the suffering that spills across borders and ripples through time.

DOUBLE HAPPINESS

Generous tax credits have lured many U.S.-based studios north for a slew of big-dollar productions. But the heart of Vancouver’s entertainment industry is its homegrown filmmaking community. No one embodies the city’s creative spirit better than the director Mina Shum, whose semi-autobiographical first feature, Double Happiness, earned her international acclaim on the film-fest circuit in 1994. Sandra Oh plays an independent-minded 22-year-old trying to balance the traditional expectations of her Chinese-Canadian family with aspirations of an acting career. Such cross-cultural themes bubble up throughout Shum’s filmography, most recently in her equally moving 2017 drama Meditation Park, which also stars Oh.

THE GREY FOX

The godfather of Vancouver cinema, director Phillip Borsos made his feature debut in 1982 with The Grey Fox, a revisionist western film portraying the infamous bandit Bill Miner as he plots Canada’s first great train robbery in the early 1900s. True to life, the movie was filmed on location along the BC Railway. Regarded as one of the country’s cinematic masterworks, Borsos manages to transcend period-piece clichés with his elegant depiction of this pivotal moment in British Columbian history.

JUNO

For the coming-of-age dramedy Juno, Canadian director Jason Reitman casts Vancouver’s suburbs as Minnesota, where fellow Canadian-turned-Hollywood star Elliot (formerly Ellen) Page plays a confident teen navigating her junior year of high school—four seasons defined by an unplanned pregnancy and her tangled relationship with a yuppie couple looking to adopt. This 2007 Academy Award winner is one of the best-regarded films in which Vancouver once again passes for its southern neighbor.

OBASAN BY JOY KOGAWA

Beneath the sheen of Vancouver’s globally minded liberalism lingers the legacy of white supremacy and racial exclusion. Joy Kogawa, a BC-born author, grapples with one of the most unfortunate chapters in the region’s history. This deeply personal work of autobiographical fiction chronicles the persecution and internment Japanese Canadians endured throughout the 1940s. Drawing on the experience of her own imprisonment, Kogawa weaves a sorrowful tale that ruminates on themes of justice, silence, and the trauma of remembering.

PAPER SHADOWS BY WAYSON CHOY

Propelled by his best-selling debut novel—The Jade Peony, now a staple in English classes throughout the country—author Wayson Choy looms large in the canon of contemporary Canadian literature. A series of surprising plot twists in his own life following the runaway success of his first book inspired 1999’s Paper Shadows, the quintessential Vancouver memoir in which discoveries about Chow’s own family history shed new life on memories of his childhood in the city’s Chinatown. As one of the first openly gay writers of color to achieve widespread success, Choy’s legacy remains an inspiration to a generation of writers—especially the LGBTQ and Asian Canadians to whom his work so intimately spoke.

THE BODY REMEMBERS WHEN THE WORLD BROKE OPEN

Technical ingenuity adds a sense of immediateness to Elle-Máijá Tailfeathers and Kathleen Hepburn’s intimate and affecting feature, which momentarily brings two indigenous women together for a few fleeting hours. Captured in one unbroken long take on 16 mm film, the narrative unfolds in