Ireland Travel 101

By Patricia Preston

Ireland Travel 101
The “travel Bible” for the Emerald Isle – East, South, West and North.

Brimming with must-do experiences and off-the-beaten-path adventures, this book zeros in on how to find “the real Ireland” – the places that are high on the travel radar for a great Irish vacation.
The fast-flowing chapters present the “wow” factors, sightseeing highlights, time and tactics needed to explore, hospitable hotels, recommended restaurants and cafes, noteworthy pubs, specialty shops and craft centers, local markets, useful tidbits and trivia, nearby digressions, and hundreds of helpful web site addresses. All of this information is capped by suggested day-to-day itineraries that you can use for your own special route.
Author Patricia Preston has “been there, and done that” all over Ireland, and she is happy to share her insider’s tips with you. And if you still have questions, just go to Pat’s web site, www.IrelandExpert.com, and you’ll have your answer within 24 hours.
For memorable travels and quite a few surprises, too, Ireland Travel 101 is the right book for you.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Xlibris US
• Release date: Apr 25, 2009
• ISBN: 9781453502235

Book preview

Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1:     Planning

Chapter 2:     How This Book Works For You

Chapter 3:     Dublin

Chapter 4:     Kilkenny

Chapter 5:     Wexford

Chapter 6:     Waterford

Chapter 7:     Cork & Blarney

Chapter 8:     Kinsale

Chapter 9:     Bantry & West Cork

Chapter 10:     Killarney

Chapter 11:     Kenmare & The Ring Of Kerry

Chapter 12:     Dingle Peninsula

Chapter 13:     Shannon Region

Chapter 14:     Galway

Chapter 15:     Connemara

Chapter 16:     Mayo

Chapter 17:     Sligo & Leitrim

Chapter 18:     Donegal

Chapter 19:     Belfast & The Antrim Coast

Chapter 20:     Derry & The Fermanagh Lakelands

Chapter 21:     Suggested Itineraries

Chapter 22:     Last Words

Introduction

Congratulations—you have made a smart choice in selecting Ireland for your vacation! Panoramic scenery, evocative history, engaging culture, timeless traditions, fun-filled activities, relaxing lifestyle, and a very welcoming people await you.

For some travelers, there is also the heritage connection—family or ancestors who came from Ireland. Your links may go back one or two generations or even ten, but there is still that special feeling of having Irish blood. As the old saying goes, there’s a little bit of Irish in everyone. Even if you don’t have Irish ancestry, you will feel at home on Irish soil.

Whether this will be your first or second or third trip to Ireland—fondly known as the Emerald Isle, this book is designed to be your basic 101 manual. The content is based on more than 40 years of visiting Ireland myself, spending an annual average of two or three months a year in the country, and writing 14 previous Irish-themed books.

In addition, the content is derived from the advice that I have provided on the Ask Pat Q&A Forum on my web site—www.IrelandExpert.com—every day for the past 11 years. Travelers ask what are the must-do attractions, how to build the perfect itinerary, where to stay and eat, what are the best pubs and shops, and above all, how to find the real Ireland. If these are your questions, too, then you have picked the right book.

Having traveled thousands of miles on the highways and byways, staying in hundreds of cities, towns and villages, I am happy to share my up-to-date discoveries and travel tips with you.

So let’s get started. Ireland provides a myriad of unique and heart-warming experiences, and a few surprises, too.

Céad Míle Fáilte (which, in the Irish language, means One Hundred Thousand Welcomes) to Ireland!

Chapter 1

Planning

Once you decide you are going to Ireland, the most important thing, after making sure your passport is in order, is to have a plan. Be aware that you can’t see all of Ireland on one trip. You have to make choices and to fine-tune an itinerary. This book will help you to make your plan.

Begin to Plan

To get your bearings, it is important to know that the island of Ireland is a small and compact destination, about the size of the state of Maine—just over 300 miles long and 170 miles wide. No part of Ireland is more than 70 miles from the sea, and no city is more than 50 to 100 miles from a neighboring city.

It is literally possible to drive cross-country between east and west in four hours or less, or to travel from the southern edge of the country to the northern rim in a day. But why rush? The optimum distance to travel in Ireland is 100-125 miles a day, especially in scenic areas. While Ireland is not very big geographically, your pace on the narrow and twisting rural roads will be much slower than on U.S. or Canadian roads. You’ll average only 30-35 miles per hour or less in many areas.

Because distances are relatively short, the ideal way to enjoy the Emerald Isle is to base yourself in one area for two or three days and take day tours in various directions, and then move on to a new destination for a few more days. Why pack and unpack and change lodgings every day? There is so much to see and to do, and all within close range of the major cities and towns.

In other words, you are going to have to prioritize your plans. Even though Ireland looks small on an overall map of Europe, you can’t see it all in a week or two or even three. Once you focus on where you want to go, then it is wise to make accommodations reservations. The best places get booked out fast.

What about winging it? People often ask me if they can just go to Ireland without a plan. Sure you can, but you may miss a lot. Chances are you will spend time trying to find places to stay when you could be out enjoying the sites. Some towns could be having a festival or event (and this happens often from early spring to late fall) and available rooms will be scarce.

Most people have a certain wish-list (e.g. Dublin, Blarney, Galway, Killarney, Ring of Kerry, Dingle, Cliffs of Moher, Waterford, Kilkenny, Westport, Donegal, or the North). If you go without a realistic plan, you may wind up running out of time and missing many of your must-sees. It is best to map out where you want to go, allocate appropriate time to each place, and stick with it, especially if this is your first visit.

Information Sources & Maps

You have made a smart choice by selecting this 101 book for Ireland travel, based on hundreds of trips that I have made in over 40 years of being a regular visitor to Ireland. Over the years, I have written many other guidebooks to Ireland (for publishers such as Frommer, Birnbaum, Fisher, and Hastings House in the U.S. and O’Brien Press in Dublin), but this book breaks out from the standard molds. I aim to cut away the fluff and give you the most helpful insider tips. Every single Irish city, town and village is not included in this book, nor is all the history and political background. There are many other books that deliver those facts.

This book is designed to be your travel Bible—to help you choose the most rewarding places to go, how to get around, where to stay and eat, and what to see and do when you get there. I have been there, and done that all over Ireland many times, and I am happy to share all that I have experienced and learned with you.

For personalized attention and itinerary advice, you can also go to my web site ( 1.jpg www.IrelandExpert.com), and click to the Ask Pat Q&A Forum where you can post your questions and I’ll answer you, free of charge, within 24 hours. I have been answering questions on this forum for over 11 years—it is a daily task that I enjoy very much, to acquaint travelers with all the joys, puzzles and nuances of a trip to Ireland.

For general visitor information and maps for travel from the US to Ireland, contact Tourism Ireland, 345 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10154,  212-418-0800, 1.jpg www.discoverireland.com. From Canada to Ireland, contact Tourism Ireland, 2 Bloor Street West, Suite 3403, Toronto, Canada, ON M4W,  416-925-6368, 1.jpg www.discoverireland.com/ca-en.

When to go?

Any month of the year is a good time to go to Ireland, for varying reasons. Summer remains the most popular time with long hours of daylight and attractions in full swing, but spring and fall are also very enticing, with festivals and fewer crowds. My own favorite months to travel to Ireland are April, May and October.

The winter, especially November-February, brings the lowest airfares and all-inclusive package deals at prices that can seem cheaper than staying at home. Some attractions and accommodations can be closed in winter, however, so your options are limited. Plan to concentrate on cities and large towns in winter, and limit the long drives on country roads. Winter also brings short hours of daylight and black ice in the most unexpected places.

Climate & Weather

Sunny spells with some outbreaks of rain is the most popular daily weather forecast on Irish radio or television. It’s no wonder that the weather is a constant topic of conversation in Ireland because it is so changeable—and unpredictable! As an island warmed by the Gulf Stream and surrounded by the sea, Ireland has a temperate (but erratic) climate all year—it has been described aptly as the land of perpetual spring and four seasons in one day.

Temperatures generally average:

Summer 60˚F/15˚C to 70˚F/20C˚

Spring/Autumn 50F˚/10˚C to 60˚F/15˚C

Winter 40˚F/5˚C to 46˚F/8˚C

It is never very cold or too hot—so don’t expect to acquire a suntan. Showers are ever-present but snow is rare. The grass is as green in January as June, flowers begin to bloom in February, and palm trees flourish all year.

Warmer temperatures and longer hours of daylight prevail in May through September, but it can also be very wet in summer with days of heavy rain. There is no one rainy season—it rains all year long, but there is also at least some sun on most days. Always look for the rainbows—they appear magically all over the countryside between a shower and a burst of sunlight.

Public Holidays & Language

The public holidays in the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland are the same in number, but differ slightly in dates:

There are two official languages in Ireland, Gaelic (or Irish, as it is commonly known) and English. Although just about everyone speaks English in everyday communication, the Irish language is still very much in evidence in public places. You’ll hear it on Irish television and radio at various times of the day; articles written in Irish also appear in the daily newspapers, although most articles are overwhelmingly in English.

The survival of the language is a major priority, particularly because it is intrinsically linked to the culture, music and folklore of Ireland. There are certain rural parts of Ireland, classified as Gaeltacht regions where Irish is the everyday language and road signs are in Irish only. A map showing place names in both languages is essential in parts of Kerry, Galway, West Cork, Mayo and Donegal.

Street signs are printed in English, although many signs use both languages.

In Northern Ireland, English is the official language.

What to Pack

Since Ireland’s weather is so changeable, casual and comfortable clothing that can be mixed and matched, and layered, is best.

Jeans and slacks are perfectly acceptable for touring in Ireland, but shorts are not usually worn, unless there’s a heat wave in the 80’s. Men should bring a jacket or blazer for evening meals in deluxe hotels, but jackets/ties are not usually required. A shirt with a pullover sweater is more common. Women might like to have a dress or skirt-outfit for evening meals at fancier hotels, although, again, it is not required. Slacks with a pretty blouse or sweater are worn as often as dresses or skirts.

Other items for your packing list: comfortable and sturdy shoes for walking; all-weather coat or jacket; fold-up umbrella; plenty of film or memory cards for picture-taking; and sunglasses. Yes, the Irish sun can be very strong! If you have sensitive skin, bring sun-block as well—the Irish sunburn index can get quite high in the summer, even on cool days.

Be sure to pack all of your medicines and prescription drugs in your hand-carry luggage that you will always have with you. It is also wise to bring along a copy of all your prescriptions, in case they have to be filled while traveling.

Lastly, don’t over-pack! You can launder your clothes easily in Ireland. Nearly every city, town and village in Ireland has local launderettes—just drop off your clothes and return a few hours later (clothes will be washed, dried and folded for about 10 euro or less, depending on the amount of clothes).

Electrical Appliances

Electricity in Ireland and Northern Ireland (220 volts, 50 cycles) is not compatible with U.S. voltage, so you can’t plug your appliances into electrical outlets, unless you have a converter or transformer and Irish three-pronged plugs (adaptors).

Many U.S. and Canadian department stores, travel specialty shops, or web vendors sell kits with converters and a variety of plugs for use with American or Canadian appliances. The exception to this rule is electric shavers—they can be plugged into a dual-voltage outlet in hotel bathrooms.

Most Irish hotels have a hairdryer in each bedroom for guest use. If you are staying in B&B accommodations, some will have hairdryers in rooms or to lend to guests, but not all will provide this service, so it is best to bring all of your own appliances and to use converters and three-prong plugs.

For laptop computers, most Irish hotels now offer wireless connections in guest rooms or public areas (for free or a small fee), or have data ports in guest rooms, but you will still need to charge your laptop. Newer laptops have a dual voltage charger, so all you usually need is a three-prong plug. The same applies to digital cameras—most chargers operate on dual voltage, so all you need is a three-prong plug. Older equipment may need an adaptor if the charger is not capable of dual voltage. Check your owner’s manual for specifications before you travel, so you can plan accordingly.

Currency—$  € and £

Like most of Europe, the Republic of Ireland uses the euro (€) as its currency, while Northern Ireland uses the pound sterling (£), like Britain. Many of your lodging, meal, transport, entertainment and shopping purchases can be made by credit cards (most widely accepted are Visa, Mastercard, and American Express), but you will need some euros in Ireland (or pounds in Northern Ireland) for postcards, stamps, snacks, lunches, drinks, tipping and incidentals.

You can bring your money in the form of U.S. dollar travelers checks; and change them into euros at banks. But be warned: traveler’s checks cost extra money, and many banks tack on high fees to cash a traveler’s check. You can also buy a small amount of euros before your trip at US airports, or at Shannon, Dublin, or Belfast Airports on arrival.

The most convenient way to obtain euros or pounds is by using ATM machines, and they are plentiful in cities and towns. ATM machines, with 24-hour access, accept major credit cards and most major debit cards. It is wise to contact the credit/debit card company that you use in advance and verify that your particular card will work in Ireland and Northern Ireland, and find out exactly what you need to know to make transactions (PIN numbers etc.). Check also what fees may apply for this service.

Getting to Ireland

Year-round air service to Ireland (Shannon and Dublin Airports) is provided daily by Aer Lingus,  1-800-474-7424, 1.jpg www.aerlingus.com, from the following U.S. gateways: New York/JFK, Boston, Washington/Dulles, Orlando, Chicago and San Francisco.

In addition, daily service from Newark is provided to Shannon, Dublin and Belfast by Continental,  1-800-231-0856, 1.jpg www.continental.com. Other airlines that provide service to Shannon or Dublin are American,  1-800-433-7300, 1.jpg www.aa.com (from Chicago); Delta,  1-800-221-1212, 1.jpg www.delta.com (from New York and Atlanta); and US Airways,  1-800-428-4322, 1.jpg www.usairways.com (from Philadelphia).

Whatever airline you choose, it is best to monitor airfares online and sign up for e-mail alerts to get the lowest airfares. If you don’t use the Internet, go to your travel agent. The best deals are offered in the off season of November to April, with the lowest fares usually in January and February.

Shannon Airport, Dublin Airport or Belfast Airport?

Your first planning decision will be whether you fly into and out of Shannon, Dublin or Belfast. If you intend to visit Dublin City, then it makes sense to fly into Dublin Airport and take public transport (bus or taxi) into the city centre for a few days (and then rent a car or take a tour after your time in Dublin).

Driving to and from Dublin Airport or into Dublin City can be very stressful if you are unfamiliar with the roads, the complex one-way system, and with the high density of traffic.

If you must pick up a car in Dublin and drive out into the countryside, it is easier than entering the city, providing you get a very clear set of instructions from the car rental company. Once you get out of the city, driving in Ireland is a pleasure.

If you do not intend to visit Dublin or other east coast destinations, then Shannon Airport is your ideal choice. Shannon is a gateway for all of the west coast and many other parts of Ireland. It is much easier to pick up a car and drive out of Shannon than Dublin. With fewer flights and less crowds, it is also more convenient to end a trip at Shannon rather than Dublin Airport.

Departing from Shannon brings an added bonus—pre-clearance for US Immigration and Customs. This means that when you land in the US, you collect your baggage and exit the airport as you would for a domestic flight. All of the inspections/formalities are processed at Shannon, saving you valuable time on arrival home. Although Shannon is the first European airport to provide these customs services, Dublin is set to follow in 2010.

Lastly, if you intend to travel mainly in Northern Ireland or the Northwest corner of the Republic (e.g. County Donegal), then Belfast Airport is your most convenient gateway.

Getting Around

How will you explore Ireland? There are four prime ways to get around Ireland:

1. Escorted Bus Tour—The best way to see the highlights of Ireland in a short time is to take an escorted bus tour, referred to as a motorcoach tour by the Irish. Sit back and relax, view the panoramic scenery through high and wide windows, listen to the words about history and folklore from a knowledgeable local guide, hum along to favorite Irish tunes, savor the camaraderie of fellow travelers, and make new friends. Best of all, you won’t get lost or waste time trying to find your hotel or next attraction.

You will stay in pre-booked hotels with swift check-in, and your bags will be delivered to your room door. Most meals are also provided as well as admissions to attractions and entertainment as specified in the itinerary. Because distances are relatively short in Ireland, you won’t be on the bus for long periods of time and there is ample free time to do your own thing. An escorted tour presents the highlights of the country in a hassle-free way. Escorted tours are available to suit every vacation time frame from a few days to two weeks.

An escorted tour is especially recommended for first-time visitors to Ireland, although I have seen many second-or third-time visitors to Ireland embrace an escorted tour as a relaxing alternative to driving. You can see a lot more when you do not have to keep your eyes on the road or the traffic. Most importantly, you pay one inclusive price in dollars up front before you travel for transport, accommodations, most meals, entertainment and all sightseeing listed in your itinerary. There are no surprises or extra charges due to currency fluctuations when you are traveling.

An escorted tour, however, is not for everyone. You have to stick to a fixed time schedule for travel and meals and keep together as a group, and there isn’t time for diversions or spontaneous photo stops. Only you can determine if an escorted tour will work for you.

There are dozens of companies providing escorted tours of Ireland, from 4 to 14 days or more. For overall reliability and expertise, and my own years of experience, I recommend CIE Tours International,  1-800-243-8687, 1.jpg www.cietours.com, an Irish company doing business for more than 77 years and offering over 30 escorted vacation choices to Ireland including some tours that include Britain as well. For a complete list of other tour companies, contact Tourism Ireland, 345 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10154,  212-418-0800, 1.jpg www.discoverireland.com. From Canada to Ireland, contact Tourism Ireland, 2 Bloor Street West, Suite 3403, Toronto, Canada, ON M4W,  416-925-6368, 1.jpg www.discoverireland.com/ca-en.

2. Self-Drive Car—Are you are adventurous traveler who prefers to linger as long as you like in a place? Are you undaunted by driving on the left side of narrow country roads? Then renting a car is for you. Take to the open road and set your own pace.

It sounds idyllic, but there is a downside, too. You will encounter confusing round-abouts (traffic circles or rotaries), complicated motorways, fast-paced ring roads, traffic jams around and within big cities and major towns, and ever-present road works and detours.

Driving in Ireland requires a little adjustment (i.e. think left), but it only takes a few hours to get used to it. In rural areas, you will often have the road to yourself, except for an occasional herd of cows or a few meandering sheep.

Street names are not on poles, but are usually affixed to the ground floor-level of buildings or adjacent walls. Street numbers are often not shown or used.

As for documentation, the only requirement is a valid US or Canadian driver’s license—you do not need an international license.

Road signs give distances in kilometers in the Republic of Ireland. Here is a primer on speed limits:

• Motorways (M)—Speed limit of 120 km/h (equivalent of 75 mph) National Roads (N)—Speed limit of 100 km/h (equivalent of 62 mph)

• Regional & Local Roads (R)—Speed limit of 80 km/h (equivalent of 50 mph)

• Towns & Cities—Speed limit of 50 km/h (equivalent of 31 mph)

For quick conversions, remember that 1 kilometer equals 5/8 mile or 1 mile equals 1.6 kilometers. Similarly, kilograms and centimeters now replace pounds and inches. For full details, click to 1.jpg www.gometric.ie

Distances are measured in miles in Northern Ireland, and the roads are generally wider and straighter. Compared to driving in the Republic, the North has some variations in speed limits, such as 30 mph for towns and cities; 60 mph for regional/country roads; and 70 mph for motorways. The distances on all Northern Ireland signposts are shown in miles.

Street names in the North are usually on free-standing signs, or on walls, buildings or fences. Houses and businesses display precise numbered addresses.

Throughout the island of Ireland, speed limits are strictly enforced, as are rules for alcohol consumption. In five simple words, if you drink, don’t drive. When going to pubs at night to imbibe, walk to the pubs. And if you must drive, have a designated driver in your party.

Seat belts are required for the driver and all passengers. Pedestrians have right of way, especially at marked crossings.

Parking is allowed in cities, towns and villages except where signs state otherwise. Most cities and large towns follow a disc or pay and display parking system which means you buy a parking permit for an hour or more at a local shop or at a stand at the car park, and then display that permit in the driver’s window for the allowed time. In larger cities like Dublin, Cork, Belfast, Galway and Limerick, it is best to follow signs to an enclosed public garage or outdoor car park and pay the hourly fees.

Car rental in Ireland is expensive compared to North America. The basic rental rates that are advertised are for small manual shift cars, but most visitors are more comfortable in an automatic car, and automatics are priced substantially more. Petrol (gasoline) is also costly (averaging 4-5 euros or $5-$7 per gallon), as is the necessary CDW (collision damage waiver) insurance coverage and various taxes and surcharges. Cars are small, however, and you will get very good mileage to a gallon of gas/petrol. All in all, renting a car is not cheap, but it is the preferred way to get around for many visitors.

All major international car rental firms (Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Europcar, Hertz, National, Thrifty and more) have branches in Ireland, so you can book your favorite. If you prefer a recommendation based on my many years of experience, my own favorite is Dan Dooley Rent A Car,  1-800-331-9301, 1.jpg www.dooleycarrentals.com, an Irish-owned firm that provides current model cars, helpful service from the US office, and upfront good deals with no hidden extras. Mention my IrelandExpert.com web site, and you will get a 10% discount, and an upgrade (when available).

3. Public Transport—Ireland’s trains and buses provide good options for independent travelers. From Dublin, Iarnród Eireann/Irish Rail, 1.jpg www.IrishRail.ie, operates train service to most major cities in Ireland, while Bus Eireann/Irish Bus, 1.jpg www.Buseireann.ie, runs buses to major cities, airports and towns/villages.

For short distances or journeys to/from bus/rail stations, taxis are plentiful. Taxis in Ireland normally do not cruise looking for customers, but line up at designated taxi ranks.

The rail system operates on a hub and spoke system from Dublin which means that you can get a direct train from Dublin to Galway, Killarney, Limerick, Cork, Belfast, Westport, and more, but not trains between Galway and Killarney or Limerick to Westport, etc. So, in most cases, you’ll need to supplement your train trips with buses (or return to the Dublin hub).

To get around Ireland by bus/train, you’ll need time and patience to follow schedules, but in return you’ll get golden opportunities to mix with the locals. Both Bus Eireann and Iarnród Eireann offer money-savings travel passes for visitors. Check the web sites.

4. Dublin & Day Trips—If you are traveling to Ireland for one week or less, and want to spend a lot of time in Dublin city, then it makes sense to base yourself in the city for the full time. You can easily fill two or three days with Dublin City sightseeing, and on the other days you can take the local bus or rail transport into the countryside, or to nearby destinations such as Belfast, Kilkenny, Waterford and Wexford.

There are also half-day and full-day sightseeing bus tours to County Wicklow and the Boyne Valley. For full information, go to Chapter 3 (and check Nearby Digressions).

Take your Appetite

In the past 35 years, Irish chefs have gained recognition around the world for the creativity of their recipes, freshness of their ingredients, and artistry of presentation. A new Irish fusion style of cooking permeates most menus—blending Irish culinary traditions with other European cuisines, plus colorful Asian, Mediterranean, and California influences.

You’ll be hard pressed to find corned beef and cabbage and Irish stew on most menus. Look instead for fresh wild salmon and trout, succulent prawns and oysters, or farm-raised beef, free-range poultry, and locally grazed lamb. Aromatic sauces, fresh seasonal vegetables and fruit, farmhouse cheeses, and just-baked breads and scones accompany most meals. For lunch or snacks, indulge in homemade soups and seafood chowders, salads of organic leaves and herbs, platters of smoked salmon, mussels, and oysters, or made-to-order sandwiches.

Regional dishes such as boxty (potato pancakes with meat or vegetable fillings), colcannon (mashed potatoes and cabbage), carrigin moss (seaweed pudding), and potato bread are also tasty treats.

Many Irish restaurants also cater to people with special needs such as vegetarian, vegan, low salt, diabetic, gluten-free, etc. Just ask.

Wash it all down with the local beverages—Irish whiskey, Guinness stout, Harp lager, or Smithwick’s ale, and more. While whiskey and beer are the most popular drinks in Ireland, pubs serve many other beverages—from sparkling water and fruit juices to sodas (known as minerals), wines, ciders, and other types of spirits (vodka, gin, etc.) as well as coffee and tea. Non-alcoholic beer, such as the Kaliber brand, is also found at most pubs. You don’t have to drink alcohol to enjoy a visit to an Irish pub!

And yes, you can drink the water. Hotels and restaurants will supply a jug of ice water for your table on request. However, if you prefer bottled water, Ireland also has a variety of bottled Irish spring water products—with labels such as Ballygowan, Glenpatrick, Tipperary, Galway, Kerry, Nash, River Rock, and more. Buy bottled water at a supermarket to get the lowest price.

Bring the Kids

Ireland has long been known as the land of youth—and for good reasons. The cities and countryside are filled with many activities and attractions that fascinate kids.

Step back in time at a 15th century castle, hop on board a horse-drawn jaunting car, ride a tractor around a working farm, cruise in Irish waters to see dolphins, follow fish underwater at an aquarium, or chug along on a narrow gauge railway. In the chapters of this book, we’ll point out kid-friendly attractions.

Always be sure to ask for reduced admission prices for children or students or special family rates (two adults and two or more children) at attractions and activities.

Note: If you are bringing kids to Ireland, be advised that Irish law prohibits anyone under 18 years of age in bars after 9 p.m. (except for May 1st until September 30th when the curfew is 10 p.m.). In addition, older teens (between 18 and 20) must have photographic identification (e.g. passport) to enter a pub after 9 p.m. However, under 18-year-olds are allowed into a pub if they are attending a private function where a substantial meal is being served.

Romantic Ireland

As an island, surrounded by water, rimmed by palm trees and wild fuchsia, Ireland is one of the most romantic destinations on Earth. Where else can you find such a stunning array of quiet country roads, glistening rivers and lakes, uncrowded dune-filled beaches, meandering gardens, and charming little towns with cozy pubs and manor houses.

Cruise around the Lakes of Killarney, climb the hills of Donegal, kiss the Blarney Stone (or each other), and get lost for a day biking on the Aran Islands. Or just take it easy, and let Ireland do the rest.

Best of all, Ireland offers a varied selection of coastal or riverside inns and resorts, restaurants overlooking bays and rivers, and dozens of castles—genuine medieval castles where you can feast on a medieval banquet or pamper yourself with overnight lodgings. Sleep in four-poster or canopy beds, dine by candlelight, relax beside the warming glow of the fireplace, or walk hand-in-hand through gardens by moonlight.

At any time of year, Ireland is a suitable setting for a honeymoon, a 25th or 50th anniversary trip, or a spontaneous romantic getaway.

Senior Travel

In Ireland, mature travelers aged 65 and over are known as OAPs (which is an abbreviation for the not very cool title of Old Age Pensioners), although the senior designation is gradually becoming recognized.

For entrance to attractions, you will find reduced rates for OAPs. In general, visiting seniors are entitled to all the privileges of Irish seniors except for public transport (which is free for resident seniors with an OAP card).

Hotels usually offer reduced room rates for seniors—look for Golden Years packages. Always ask if attractions, tours or activities have an OAP rate.

Inclusive escorted tours to Ireland sold from the US usually have a senior discount, with the age threshold as low as 55.

Tracing Irish Roots

With over 60 million people worldwide claiming some Irish ancestry, it’s no wonder that many visitors plan a trip to Ireland to track down their long-lost cousins or search for Irish roots. But don’t just arrive at Shannon or Dublin, and expect to start from there.

The key to success in tracking down Irish ancestry is the work you do in advance of your trip. Check with family members or sift through old family records to determine when and where your Irish ancestor was born, and then you can write ahead to the appropriate county in Ireland to track down the exact record. If you can’t find the basics, then you can always work from the date and place of emigration. Do as much of this homework as you can before you travel, and then you can find exact townlands or parishes once you are in Ireland.

Even if you don’t have sufficient information to pinpoint an exact name and place, very often you will be able to find out where in Ireland your surname is the most prevalent, and what county you are likely to have connections. It’s always a joy to go to Cork or Clare, or any of the other counties, and see your own family name over many of the shopfronts and pubs. At least you know you are in home territory—and you may even find a cousin or two!

Here are 10 of the most popular Irish surnames and the counties where the names are the most numerous: Murphy (Armagh, Carlow and Wexford); O’Sullivan (Cork and Kerry); Gallagher (Donegal); Byrne (Dublin, Louth and Wicklow); Kelly (Galway, Kildare, Leitrim and Roscommon); Brennan (Kilkenny and Sligo); O’Brien (Limerick); Ryan (Tipperary); Walsh (Mayo); and O’Reilly (Meath and Cavan).

There are many good sources of help in Ireland—almost every county has one or two regional genealogical centers. Before you go, check with Tourism Ireland, 345 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10154,  212-418-0800, 1.jpg www.discoverireland.com. From Canada to Ireland, contact Tourism Ireland, 2 Bloor Street West, Suite 3403, Toronto, Canada, ON M4W,  416-925-6368, 1.jpg www.discoverireland.com/ca-en

The Cost of Accommodations, Food & Drink,

and Sightseeing

What do things cost in Ireland? That’s a great question that I answer often. The answers vary wildly. It also depends on the exchange rate of euro or pound vs. dollar at the time of your visit.

Accommodations: You can stay in a B&B for 35-40 euro per person per night or you can splurge in a castle for 200-500 euro per night, or more. In between, there is a wide range of guesthouses and hotels that average100-300 euro per night for two people. In this book, I recommend some special places in all categories. Prices vary with the season and special offers are almost always available. In every case, I also list a web site for more information—and leave it to you to do your homework and find out what deals are available on your dates of travel.

Food and Drink: The average evening dinner costs 30 euro or more. Add beverages and service charges, and it really mounts up. It’s close to 100 euro a night for two people without even trying—at an ordinary restaurant. The best solution, if you don’t mind dining early between 6 and 7 p.m., is the early bird option. Prices vary, but two-course dinners usually cost 20-25 euro depending on location and choice of food.

As an alternative, you can get meals at pubs which may not be as healthy (fried fish and chips, stews, burgers, casseroles) but will be less costly—about 10-15 euro per person. More good news: a full Irish cooked breakfast is usually included in the cost of your room at most hotels and B&Bs. And a full Irish breakfast is massive—juices, fruit, yogurts, hot and cold cereals, breads, toast, rolls, croissants, scones, muffins, bacon, sausages, eggs, mushrooms, beans, potatoes, coffee/tea, and sometimes fish or French toast/waffles/pancakes. It’s an all-you-can-eat occasion, so you really don’t need much lunch. But if you do want a light lunch, you can stop at café or self-service place and spend 6-10 euro per person for a hot dish with potatoes and beverage, depending on what you order.

Suggestion: Go light on lunch. Soup and brown bread/or/white roll are usually sufficient. And good homemade soups are available everywhere, usually under 5 euro except for seafood chowders (closer to 8 euro). Some favorites are mixed vegetable (available widely) as well as mushroom, tomato, cauliflower, potato and leek, squash and sweet potato, and others. Irish soups are usually made with pureed vegetables so they are filling and healthy. If you are not a soup person, sandwiches cost around 3 euros or more, depending on content and size. Salads cost 2.50 euros and up per small portion.

Budget Tip: Shop at local supermarkets for snacks, sandwiches and take-out food.

Here is a list of the leading Irish supermarket chains. Take a look at their web sites and see the range of foods available and get used to euro prices: Aldi 1.jpg www.aldi.ie; Centra 1.jpg www.centra.ie; Dunnes 1.jpg www.dunnestores.ie; Gala 1.jpg www.gala.ie; Lidl 1.jpg www.lidl.ie; Londis 1.jpg www.londis.ie; Marks & Spencer Food Halls 1.jpg www.marksandspencer.com; Spar 1.jpg www.spar.ie; Superquinn 1.jpg www.superquinn.ie; SuperValu 1.jpg www.supervalu.ie; and Tesco 1.jpg www.tesco.ie.

And if you do plan to go to supermarkets, here’s a final tip—bring a cloth shopping bag or two in your luggage—you’ll save over 30 cents each time you refuse a plastic bag in a supermarket and use your own. And, as a bonus, you’ll also be helping the environment.

Sightseeing Attractions: Many of Ireland’s museums, parks and heritage sites are open to the public for free, and others charge a nominal admission price (usually under 4 euro). Other attractions charge varying prices, usually in the 5-10 euro range. A few, like the Guinness Brewery or Blarney Castle, put themselves into the tourist trap category by charging well over 10 euro. Only you can determine if it is worth it. To save money, see Travel Passes & Discount Vouchers below.

Since opening times and admission rates change from year to year and sometimes with the seasons, we have not listed any specific prices or hours. In general, attractions are open all year, or at least from March through October, including Easter and other bank holiday weekends, but are closed for a few days at Christmas/New Year’s and on Good Friday. Where available, we have listed a web site for further information.

Saving Money

Everyone loves a bargain! And traveling around Ireland can be a bargain-seeker’s joy, if you know where to look. To start off, many bargains are just common sense:

• Travel in the off-peak fall/spring months (November-April)

• Book advance-purchase promotional airfares online and watch for sale fares. (See Getting to Ireland above)

• Ask for inclusive weekend or midweek packages at hotels—2 or 3 nights at one place which often includes one or two dinners. (Check 1.jpg www.irelandhotels.com)

• Study hotel web sites, sign up for special offer emails, and be prepared pay in advance for the best deals (nonrefundable advance-booking rates—sometimes called pay now/save later rates) or book on short notice (last-minute specials).

• Stay in Bed & Breakfasts—family town homes and farmhouses. (Check 1.jpg www.townandcountry.ie and 1.jpg www.irishfarmholidays.ie)

• Choose self-catering accommodations and cook your own meals. (Check 1.jpg www.irishcottageholidays.com)

• Request restaurant early bird dining specials (usually available between 6 and 7 p.m.); for lunch, get take-away (i.e. take-out) items at supermarkets, delis or farmers markets. (Check 1.jpg www.findarestaurant.ie, 1.jpg www.rai.ie and 1.jpg www.irishfarmersmarkets.ie)

• Inquire about senior discounts (see Senior Travel above), and 2-for-1 admissions, and other discounts (see Travel Passes and Discount Vouchers below).

• If using a credit card, always ask to have your purchase charged in euros, not dollars and you will get a better rate of exchange.

Travel Passes and Discount Vouchers

Heritage Card—entitles you to admission at more than 70 of Ireland’s historical, cultural, archaeological, and scenic sites including castles, historic buildings, monasteries, monuments, abbeys, museums, galleries, heritage centers, great houses, forts, prehistoric sites, islands, parks, and wildlife areas. Purchase the card online ( 1.jpg www.heritageireland.ie) or at any member site in Ireland.

Ireland at a Glimpse—a pocket-size book filled with of 2-for-1 admission coupons valid at 74 attractions throughout the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland—including castles, museums, heritage centres and parks, stately homes, gardens, abbeys, forts, planetariums, zoos, caves, distilleries, potteries, railways, boat cruises, and walking tours. The attractions are listed by region, with handy maps as well, to help you plan tour sightseeing in an organized way. This colorful booklet is the most extensive of Ireland’s discount programs—if every coupon is used, the potential savings amount is up to $600. Buy the book online at a reduced price on my web site ( 1.jpg www.IrelandExpert.com) or in bookshops and tourist offices in Ireland.

Essential Touring Guide to Ireland’s Visitor Attractions and Heritage Towns—a booklet providing discounts at over 90 historic houses, castles, monuments, museums, parks, heritage centres, gardens, theme parks, caves, distilleries and aquariums throughout the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Discounts range from 10% to 20% or two-for-one admission charges. Buy the booklet online from a marketing group called Heritage Island, 1.jpg www.heritageisland.com or buy one once you arrive at most tourist offices and shops.

Regional Coupons & Discounts—Many regions in Ireland offer discount coupons or reduced admissions passes from time to time. In Dublin, the city tourist office sells the Dublin Pass ( 1.jpg www.visitdublin.com). These passes tend to be seasonal or yearly, so check at local tourist offices in each area you go.

Saving Money By Shopping

One of the best things about shopping in Ireland for American citizens and other non-EU visitors is that purchases can be tax-free. We stress can be because it is not automatic—it takes a little effort on your part. Here’s how it works.

In Ireland, almost all consumer products are subject to Value Added Tax—VAT, for short. VAT is a hidden tax—already added into the purchase price of most goods. However, non-EU visitors are entitled to get a refund of VAT paid.

Ireland is one of the best places in Europe to shop and get VAT refunds. Unlike all other EU countries, Ireland requires no minimum purchase. The VAT rate in Ireland varies, but VAT refunds usually give you back around 15% to 17% of purchase price (after a small service fee has been deducted).Of course, you can avoid VAT altogether by mailing gifts home, making purchases at Shannon and Dublin’s Duty Free Airport shops, or by buying goods at Ireland’s churches, abbeys, and other non-profit organizations that operate as charitable trusts.

Assuming that you shop in a variety of commercial shops and are carrying your purchases back home with you out of the EU, there are the four refund systems. All of these systems involve some effort on your part.

• Global Refund Tax Free Shopping—This is the largest and most reliable VAT-refund system. Simply make purchases either by cash or credit card, and then request a Global Refund form (blue and white in color) from the store clerk. He/she fills in the necessary store details; you fill in your name and home address, etc. Save all the forms till departure day. At Shannon or Dublin Airport, hand in your forms to the Global Refund desk, and you will get a refund of cash (dollars, euros, or other currency of choice). Real money on the spot! You also get a printed receipt with complete details of your total purchases and VAT refund. If you prefer to have a credit applied to your credit card, that is another option. If you don’t have time or forget to submit your VAT forms at the airport before departure, you have 90 days to mail the vouchers back. These tax-free vouchers must be stamped by a customs officer or a notary public at home before being mailed. More info: 1.jpg www.globalrefund.ie

• TaxBack—Make purchases by credit card or cash and receive a TaxBack form (purple-and-white in color). Fill out the forms and keep till the end of your trip. When you get to the airport, go to the TaxBack desk and submit your receipts. This company promises to send you a refund by check or credit card (Visa or Mastercard only). They do not give cash into your hand on departure.

• MoneyBack—The MoneyBack plastic card looks like a credit card, but instead it records the tax you are due with each purchase. When departing Ireland, you insert your card into a touch-screen TaxFree Technology Kiosk—and your tax refund will automatically be transferred to your credit card. You can also view the details of your MoneyBack purchases and refunds online. To apply for a card in advance of a visit and to get full details about this system, go to 1.jpg www.moneyback.ie or 1.jpg www.taxfreetechnology.com.

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