Memories of Mutrah, Oman: Fishing Village to Vibrant City

By Maxine Burden

"Memories of Mutrah, Oman: Fishing Village to Vibrant City" relates to the memories of the merchants of Mutrah souq, their family life, and history as passed down from generation to generation. They tell of the good and the not-so-good times. Mutrah was a happy, lively place where the local inhabitants would gather to exchange news, reflect on the health of their families, and to purchase food and living requirements from this 600-year-old traditional marketplace. Their purchases were made from large wheelbarrows with a tray, these would move around to different locations each day.

The lifeline for the small villages was fishing and trading dates. Many families from the coastal towns of Sur and Mutrah were traders, trading with the monsoons from India to Sur and onwards to Zanzibar in East Africa. Fathers would take their young sons along teaching them the maritime and navigation trade. Two of these sons are now Oman's top Entrepreneurs and visionaries, each heading a business empire.

Today, Mutrah is a vibrant city still providing for the people as it has over the centuries while retaining the feel of a small fishing village with an active fish market and a very popular souq. On the arrival of Sultan Qaboos in Muscat in 1970, the development plans of his father were put forward, making Muscat the capital. He also set out plans for his 'Muscat Capital Area' consisting of joining Mutrah and the main port area to Muscat via a corniche, built with cement imported from India.

Port Sultan Qaboos is a tourism port, welcoming the many cruise ships that visit Oman during the main tourist season from October to March. Mutrah Souq sells original artifacts of silver jewelry, fabrics, khanjars (ceremonial swords), frankincense, perfumes, and basic kitchenware. Original Omani designs in silver and gold still exist and feature an Omani imprint, proving their authenticity.

The late Sultan Qaboos bin Al Said brought the whole country into the twenty-first century by providing healthcare, education, housing, and infrastructure for all. As a center of trade, Mutrah has always been a melting pot of nationalities and cultures, making this city unique.

• Language: English
• Publisher: BookBaby
• Release date: Jan 10, 2024
• ISBN: 9780645957815

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Also by Maxine Burden

THROW DOWN THE ANCHOR: The Story of Mutrah Souq

MEMORIES OF MUTRAH

Fishing Village to Vibrant City

Written by:

Maxine Burden

First Published 2023

Author

Maxine Burden

Editor

Ann Simmonds

Design and Layout

Philip Burden

Cover by

BookBaby

Copyright 2023 by Maxine Burden

The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written permission in writing of the copyright holder. Any person acting in contravention of the copyright law will be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.

First Edition

Print ISBN 978-0-6459578-0-8

eBook ISBN 978-0-6459578-1-5

Printed and distributed by

BookBaby

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Table of Contents

Dedication

Preface

Thank you

Introduction

A Brief History of Oman

The Late Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Bin Taimour Al Said

Ruler of Oman from 1970 to 2020

In Memory of The Late Sultan Qaboos

Sultan Haitham bin Tariq al Said

Mutrah A Fishing Village

Mutrah of Old

Mutrah Fort

Sur al Lawatiyah Complex

Mutrah Souq

A Step Back In Time - Haramel Fishing Village

Through A Sister’s Eyes

The Bahwan Family Story As Told By Warda Bahwan

Sur

My Family

Mutrah

Warda’s Memories

Sheikh Suhail Salim Bahwan Al Mukhaini

Sheikh Saud Salim Abdullah Bahwan Al Mukhaini

Mutrah’s Ambassador - Ahktar Rasool

Ahktar’s Story

Memories Of Old

Akbar Lal Bakhsh Al-Balushi’s Story

Akbar tells his Story:

My Mutrah

Moosa Hossain Mohammed Al Balushi

Moosa’s Story:

A Silver Story

Mohamed Ali Bin Morad Al Balushi Family

Mohamed’s Story:

Jamal’s Story

Mutrah Souq’s Medicine Man

Mustafa Murad Al Zadjali

Mustafa’s son Talal tells the story:

‘The Weaver Of Kashmir

Shah Shahnawaz

Shah’s Pashmina Story:

360 Years In Oman

The Toprani Family Story As Told By Shri Muneer Manubhai Toprani

Muneer relates the family history:

Grandfather’s Story:

My grandmother:

Father’s Story:

My Childhood Stories:

My Working Career:

Our Family Business - M/s Shantadevi Naraindas Toprani & Co:

Mutrah:

Importing goods into Muscat by sea:

Basic Information:

The Bhatia Community

Banyan Community

Ramesh Bhavan House On The Mutrah Corniche

The Toprani Family Home

Zanzibar And Oman

Prominent People And Places

PDO’S News Man

Abbas Al Zadjali

Life in Early 1970s Oman

Abdulrauf Wood W.O

Mutrah Hotel

The Oldest Hotel in Mutrah

The Mission Hospital In Mutrah

Background:

Medical Work History:

The Al Amana Centre

Midge Kapenga, a teacher in the American School, reflects on her years in Oman:

Facilities:

Purpose:

Mutrah Today

Mutrah Souq

The Fish Market

The Corniche

Mutrah Fort

Museums:

Glossary

Acknowledgements

Bibliography

Dedication

This book is dedicated to the Omani people and their future generations. May you continue to treasure the heritage and culture of your beautiful country as well as your prosperity, a legacy of the vision and wise leadership of the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said bin Taimur and a foundation for Oman’s new ruler, His Majesty Sultan Haitham bin Tarek al Said.

Given the nature of personal memories, the oral stories in the pages of this book have not been corrected for historical accuracy. The stories have been written as told from the storyteller’s perspective. Therefore, before using historical information, or otherwise, from this publication, we strongly encourage you to fact check with the proper authorities.

Preface

Following on from the successful completion of my first book Throw Down the Anchor: The Story of Mutrah Souq , this, my second book, Memories of Mutrah, Oman: Fishing Village to Vibrant City relates to the same region. The writing of this book came about following the launch of Throw Down the Anchor and meeting local people who still had more great stories to tell. Their encouragement certainly led to my decision to research and write another book of their memories. With only a matter of months before departing from Oman, the pressure was on to complete all the interviews. This has been such an enjoyable experience: meeting the local people and hearing their stories and memories of the good and the bad times they had to endure, but always remaining happy and positive. Many of these new stories bring forth new information as well as confirming information in the stories found in my first book.

Much of this research was undertaken during the evenings at the souq. The atmosphere was fantastic, with bright lights and many shoppers visiting the stalls, while the children, in their colourful clothing, would dance around or talk and laugh with their friends. The souq is such a fascinating place. It draws you in with the soothing fragrance of frankincense wafting through the air and hitting your senses as you walk deeper into this labyrinth of bright alleyways, full of small shops packed to the brim with their colourful wares. Omani artefacts, such as silver and gold, clothing, perfumes, laces, fabrics, carpets, embroidered kumas, decorative abayas, old coffee pots, swords, knives and spices, in fact all you would need to live, can be found in Mutrah Souq.

It has been a delight to visit and work with such wonderful, friendly people who always have a smile and the offer of kawa, chai and water in the summer months. I always feel full of excitement as I look forward to visiting the souq. On many occasions, I have been there long after closing time, talking about the souq and Oman with the merchants. This has been such an interesting, precious and educational time amongst dear friends.

The stories in this second book begin in Sur where two of Oman’s top entrepreneurs were born and grew up sailing the seas with their father, before heading to Mutrah and opening their first shop in the souq. Other stories follow some prominent souq merchants through the generations, whose first shops in the souq were wheelbarrows, which would often move to a different location each day. Natural remedies made from local plants were the first medicines available for the locals to treat a variety of ailments and could be bought from the ‘medicine man’ whose shop still operates in the main alleyway of the souq today. Childhood memories make wonderful stories; the games they would play were simple but so much fun. It is amazing how some people can remember so much of their family history dating back hundreds of years, including the family home and details of how it was built. Some amazing old photographs have also come to light, all having their own story to tell.

This book provides more information about the history of Mutrah Souq and its environs. Those who have kindly shared their stories, have told of their personal memories. These memories are not necessarily true facts, as the recollection of events may vary between different people. As there is no written confirmation, I cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information given. Before using historical information I would encourage you to check facts with the proper authorities. Telling stories has always been the way the Omani people would pass down their early history. These stories are their history.

Thank you

I wish to sincerely thank all the merchants of Mutrah Souq who have been a part of this special project, especially Jamal al Zadjali, Ahktar Rasool, Akbar al Balushi, Shah Shahnawaz, Moosa Hossain al Balushi, Mohamed Ali al Balushi and Talal al Zadjali. Also, a special thank you to Warda Salim Bahwan, Muneer Toprani, Abbas Al Zadjali, Abdulrauf Wood, Mohamed and Julia al Zadjali, Deborah D’Onofrio, Lakha Kuriakase and Justin Meyers. To Christine Bartlett for photography and my most supportive, loving husband Philip for photography, design and continued assistance.

Your input is greatly appreciated.

A very special thank you to my editor Ann Simmonds, for her time and assistance in editing this book. I truly appreciate her as an experienced editor and special friend.

Omani sailor using a sextant (Photo: Petroleum Development Oman (PDO))

Introduction

Oman is the precious jewel of Arabia. Set amidst stark, ancient ophiolite mountain ranges, numerous wadis and with a 1,700-kilometre coastline, this is a country of beautiful scenery, amazing culture, an interesting heritage and very friendly people.

Their lifeline has always been fishing and dates. Fish were always dried or salted, were plentiful along the great coastline and provided all male members of the family with work or a hobby. The palm tree is well known as having provided all the needs of the Omani people in the past; from making baskets, mats, fishing boats, brooms, providing a roof over their heads, food and much more.

The Omani people were explorers. With the country lying strategically along the sea trade routes between East and West, they were renowned for exploring and mapping new trade routes to distant lands. Omanis are thought to have been the first to sail to China in the eighth century. This country is steeped in history, culture and tradition having been influenced by Mesopotamia, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, the Indian sub-continent, Africa and Iran. Late in the 17th century, Oman was a powerful empire vying with Portugal and Britain for influence around the Indian Ocean and the Persian Gulf. Oman’s influence in the 19th century spread across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran, Pakistan and as far south as Zanzibar. In the first half of the 20th century Oman went into decline drifting behind other parts of the developing world in education, healthcare and infrastructural development, becoming isolated. It was with the arrival and vision of the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said in 1970 that the country slowly emerged into the 20th century.

Sur was the main trading centre with East Africa by the 6th century, having a significant cultural role through ancient and modern times. By the 16th century it was under the rule of the Portuguese. Liberation came through the Omani Imam, Nasir ibn Murshid, undergoing an economic revival and becoming a trade centre with India and East Africa.

Many would sail to Sur from India, Pakistan, Zanzibar and other countries. From Sur, some would make their way to Muscat and