The Rough Guide to Berlin: Travel Guide eBook

By Rough Guides

This Berlin guidebook is perfect for independent travellers planning a longer trip. It features all of the must-see sights and a wide range of off-the-beaten-track places. It also provides detailed practical information on preparing for a trip and what to do on the ground. And this Berlin travel guidebook is printed on paper from responsible sources, and verified to meet the FSC’s strict environmental and social standards. 

This Berlin guidebook covers: Unter den Linden and around,Museum Island and around, Alexanderplatz and around, The Spandauer Vorstadt, Potsdamer Platz and Tiergarten, City West and Schöneberg, Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain, Neukölln and around, Prenzlauer Berg and around, The eastern suburbs, The western suburbs and Out of the city.

Inside this Berlin travel book, you’ll find: 

• A wide range of sights – Rough Guides experts have hand-picked places for travellers with different needs and desires: off-the-beaten-track adventures, family activities or chilled-out breaks
• Itinerary examples – created for different time frames or types of trip
• Practical information – how to get to Berlin, all about public transport, food and drink, shopping, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, tips for travellers with disabilities and more
• Author picks and things not to miss in Berlin – Fernsehturm, East Side Gallery, Berliner Weisse, The Reichstag, Hackesche Höfe, Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer, Brandenburger Tor, Sanssouci, currywurst, nightlife, Tiergarten, Sony Center, Museum Island, Kadewe, Jüdisches Museum
• Insider recommendations – tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money, and find the best local spots
• When to go to Berlin – high season, low season, climate information and festivals 
• Where to go – a clear introduction to Berlin with key places and a handy overview 
• Extensive coverage of regions, places and experiences – regional highlights, sights and places for different types of travellers, with experiences matching different needs
• Places to eat, drink and stay – hand-picked restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels
• Practical info at each site – hours of operation, websites, transit tips, charges
• Colour-coded mapping – with keys and legends listing sites categorised as highlights, eating, accommodation, shopping, drinking and nightlife
• Background information for connoisseurs – history, culture, art, architecture, film, books, religion, diversity
• Essential German dictionary and glossary of local terms 
• Fully updated post-COVID-19 
  

The guide provides a comprehensive and rich selection of places to see and things to do in Berlin, as well as great planning tools. It’s the perfect companion, both ahead of your trip and on the ground.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Jun 1, 2024
• ISBN: 9781835290965

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

Book preview

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Contents

Introduction to Berlin

What to see

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Sustainable travel

Basics

Getting there

Arrival

City transport

The media

Festivals

Travel essentials

Unter den Linden and around

Brandenburger Tor

Pariser Platz

The Reichstag

Memorial to the Sinti and Roma Victims of National Socialism

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Memorial to Homosexuals Persecuted under Nazism

Hitler’s bunker and around

Wilhelmstrasse

Unter den Linden

Gendarmenmarkt

Bunte Schokowelt

Jägerstrasse

German Foreign Ministry

Museum Island and around

Schlossplatz and around

Museum Island

Alexanderplatz and around

Alexanderplatz

Fernsehturm

Marienkirche

Neptunbrunnen

Rotes Rathaus

Sea Life Berlin

Berlin Dungeon

Heilige-Geist-Kapelle

DDR Museum

Nikolaiviertel

Molkenmarkt

Klosterviertel and around

Märkisches Museum

The Spandauer Vorstadt

S-Bahnhof Hackescher Markt

Hackesche Höfe

Haus Schwarzenberg

Scheunenviertel

Sophienstrasse

Grosse Hamburger Strasse

Oranienburger Strasse and around

Auguststrasse

The theatre district

Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse

Chausseestrasse

Museum für Naturkunde

Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer

Potsdamer Platz and Tiergarten

Potsdamer Platz and around

Leipziger Platz

Kulturforum

The diplomatic district

Tiergarten

Spreebogen

Hauptbahnhof

Hamburger Bahnhof/Museum für Gegenwart

Invalidenfriedhof and around

Medizinhistorisches Museum

City West and Schöneberg

City West

Schöneberg

Kreuzberg-Friedrichshain, Neukölln and around

Western Kreuzberg

Tempelhofer Feld

Eastern Kreuzberg

Neukölln

Treptower Park

Friedrichshain

Prenzlauer Berg and around

Senefelderplatz and around

Eberswalder Strasse and around

Pankow

Wedding and Gesundbrunnen

The eastern suburbs

Lichtenberg

Marzahn-Hellersdorf

Köpenick

Grosser Müggelsee and around

The western suburbs

Schloss Charlottenburg

Museums opposite the Schloss

Gedenkstätte Plötzensee and around

The Westend

Dahlem and around

Zehlendorf and the Grunewald

Wannsee

Spandau

Out of the city

Potsdam

Gedenkstätte and Museum Sachsenhausen

Accommodation

Eating

Drinking and nightlife

The arts

Shopping

Sports and outdoor activities

LGBTQ+ Berlin

Kids’ Berlin

Contexts

History

Books

Film

Architecture

Language

Small print

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Introduction to Berlin

With its notoriously hedonistic nightlife, tumultuous history and easy-going, cosmopolitan vibe, Berlin is indisputably one of Europe’s most compelling cities. Add a generous feeling of physical space (thanks to a rare combination of large-scale urban planning and a relatively low population of just 3.6 million), a cutting-edge cultural scene and the emergence of a buzzy start-up culture, and it’s easy to see why so many people are not just visiting the freewheeling German capital but moving here in droves.

Indeed, Berlin’s transformation since the fall of its notoriously divisive Wall has been nothing short of extraordinary, and its 1989 rebirth is key to understanding the city’s youthful vitality. The first wave of post-Wende (turning-point) settlers – artists, squatters, musicians, DJs – set the edgy, alternative tone that still drives the city, despite encroaching gentrification and commercialization. Cheaper than London, liberal, multicultural and still very much at the heart of the European Union, Berlin today has grown into one of Europe’s prime destinations for hip young things and entrepreneurial types alike.

Beneath the future-oriented, upbeat veneer, however, remain the poignant scars of the turbulent twentieth century, and its onslaught of war, partition and totalitarianism. A wealth of museums and memorials confront the past unflinchingly, commemorating and meticulously documenting the methodologies and crimes of successive authoritarian regimes, though a certain stream of nostalgia still lingers for the lighter aspects of the GDR, which remains vivid in the memories of many older Berliners.

This traumatic history has also taken its toll on the city visually. Not only was much of Berlin, once the grand capital of imperial Prussia, reduced to rubble at the end of World War II but many ugly and uninspired new buildings were thrown up afterwards. Following a second spate of frenetic construction in the immediate wake of the Wende, when a host of high-profile architects were commissioned to create an aesthetic suitable for the born-again capital, the city now presents a somewhat chaotic architectural jigsaw. It might not always be easy on the eye, but the urban cityscape seems to suit Berlin’s slightly dishevelled nature, with an unconventional charm all its own – and the overall effect is softened by the many parks, gardens and playgrounds that help make it such an appealing place to live.

Perhaps more than anywhere else in Europe, Berlin is a city – seemingly in a perpetual state of transformation – that repays repeated visits. Whether you’re drawn by its world-class museums, endlessly absorbing history or frenetic, 24-hour nightlife, visit now and you’ll be hooked forever.

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What to see

The central Mitte district, cut off from the West for almost thirty years during the period of division, is Berlin’s main sightseeing and shopping hub. Most visitors begin their exploration on the city’s premier boulevard Unter den Linden, starting at the most famous landmark, the Brandenburger Tor, then moving over to the adjacent seat of Germany’s parliament, the Reichstag, perhaps the greatest symbol of the nation’s reunification. At its eastern end Unter den Linden is lined by stately Neoclassical buildings and terminates on the shores of Museum Island, home to some of Berlin’s leading museums, but its natural extension on the other side of the island is Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse, which leads to a distinctively GDR-era part of the city around Alexanderplatz, one of Berlin’s principal commercial and transport hubs. Northwest from here, the Spandauer Vorstadt was once the heart of the city’s Jewish community, and has some fascinating reminders of those days, though today it’s best known for the restaurants, bars, boutiques and nightlife around the Hackescher Markt.

OFFBEAT BERLIN

Tempelhofer Feld Go cycling, skating or kite landboarding in Europe’s biggest park, a former Nazi airport.

Street art Learn to graffiti with Alternative Berlin, then find your own bit of wall to practise on.

Badeschiff Cool off on a summer’s day with a dip in the Badeschiff, a pool made from a converted barge, bobbing above the inky River Spree.

Go-karting Career around the streets in a go-kart.

Mauerpark Rummage for vintage clothes and the occasional item of GDR memorabilia at this Sunday flea market.

Back at the Brandenburger Tor, a walk south along the edge of the sprawling Tiergarten park – past a trio of memorials to victims of Nazi crimes – takes you to the modern Potsdamer Platz, a bustling entertainment quarter that stands on what was once a barren field straddling the death-strip of the Berlin Wall. Huddled beside Potsdamer Platz is the Kulturforum, an agglomeration of cultural institutions that includes several high-profile art museums. Also fringing the park are Berlin’s diplomatic and government quarters, where you’ll find some of the city’s most innovative post-Wende architecture, including the formidable Hauptbahnhof. The western end of the Tiergarten is given over to a zoo, which also gives its name to the main transport hub at this end of town. This is the gateway to City West, the old centre of West Berlin, and best known for its shopping boulevards, particularly the upmarket Kurfürstendamm.

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Schloss Charlottenburg

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Schöneberg, Kreuzberg and Neukölln, the three key residential districts immediately south of the centre, are home – along with Friedrichshain to the east – to much of Berlin’s most vibrant nightlife. The relatively smart Schöneberg is the city’s LGBTQ+ centre, while Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain, which straddle opposite sides of the Spree, have maintained a grungy and edgy ambience despite the inevitable onward march of gentrification.

BERLIN’S MARVELLOUS MUSEUMS

Berlin boasts that it’s Europe’s only city with more museums than rainy days (some 190 and 106 respectively), which is great news weather-wise, but also means that all but the most committed museum nuts are spoiled for choice.

Most collections are expertly presented in striking buildings and nowhere is this more true than on Museum Island, location of the city’s headline acts. Here Middle Eastern antiquities and, to a lesser extent, German art and sculpture, are the main draws, while the latter also form the kernel of collections at Berlin’s other main central museum agglomeration: the Kulturforum. This is known for its medieval and early modern paintings and decorative art; the greatest concentration of twentieth-century art lies in the museums around Schloss Charlottenburg outside the city centre. In addition, the vast collection in the airy old warehouses of the Hamburger Bahnhof is an essential first stop for lovers of contemporary art – before embarking on an exploration of some of Berlin’s 440 or so private galleries. After many delays and some controversy, the brand-new Humboldt Forum opened in 2021, which combines two former museums, the Ethnological Museum of Berlin and the Museum of Asian Art.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, many of Berlin’s most compelling museums are concerned with its astonishing history. If weighty topics don’t appeal, then Berlin’s generic museums are a good bet, especially for kids: the Natural History Museum is famous for dinosaur skeletons; while the technology and communication museums are both engaging push-button places. Unsuitable for kids, but entertaining for the rest of us, are the photography museum devoted to Helmut Newton’s nude photos and the gay museum which evokes the city’s debauched 1920s. But for something truly offbeat, the dusty old exhibits of the freakish Medical History Museum are hard to beat.

Friedrichshain also offers some unusual architectural leftovers from the Eastern Bloc of the 1950s, while to the north yuppified Prenzlauer Berg is one of the few places in which the atmosphere of prewar Berlin has been preserved – complete with cobbled streets and ornate facades. North of Prenzlauer Berg is the sleepy, attractive district of Pankow, while to the west lies ever up and coming Wedding, with its large immigrant population and pockets of underground culture and nightlife.

Berlin’s eastern suburbs are typified by a sprawl of prewar tenements punctuated by high-rise developments and heavy industry, though the lakes, woodland and small towns and villages dotted around Köpenick offer a bucolic break from the city. The leafy western suburbs are even more renowned for their woodland (the Grunewald) and lakes (the Havel), with more besides: attractions include the Baroque Schloss Charlottenburg, with its adjacent art museums; the impressive 1930s Olympic Stadium; and the medieval town of Spandau. Further out, foremost among possible day-trips are Potsdam, location of Frederick the Great’s Sanssouci palace, and the former concentration camp of Sachsenhausen, north of Berlin in Oranienburg.

When to go

Lying in the heart of Europe, Berlin’s climate is continental, with temperatures varying from sticky July highs of around 30°C to January lows as bitingly cold as -18°C. April is the earliest in the year you should go for decent weather: any earlier and you’ll need winter clothing, earmuffs and a decent pair of waterproof shoes; that said, the city (especially the eastern part) has a particular poignancy when it snows. The best time to visit is in May; June and July can be wearingly hot, though the famed Berlin air (Berliner Luft – there’s a song about its vitality) keeps things bearable.

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

BERLIN

Max/min (°C) 3/-2 4/-1 9/1 14/5 19/9 22/12 24/15 24/14 19/11 14/6 8/3 4/0

Max/min (°F) 37/28 39/30 48/34 57/41 66/48 72/54 75/59 75/57 66/52 57/43 46/37 39/32

Rainfall (days) 9 7 8 7 8 8 8 8 7 7 8 10

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High street shops in Friedrichstrasse

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our author has scoured every corner of Berlin, seeking out everything from the hottest spots for a night out to the tastiest food markets and the finest hotels. Here are some of their favourite things to see, do and savour.

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Mauerpark Flea Market

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Go vegan Berlin is the place to be if you want to try some seriously good vegan food: our top spots are Chay Viet (see page 202) for flavour-packed Vietnamese noodle soups, Försters – Das Vegane Restaurant (see page 203) for German classics made vegan and Dada Falafel (see page 193) for, well, some of the best darn falafel in Berlin.

Party all night The city boasts some of the most legendary clubs in the world, but you don’t always have to queue for hours to get into some of the best ones. ://aboutblank (see page 217) is a top pick. The vibe is raucous, the crowd is welcoming and the parties start late (very late) and go on all weekend.

Find some gems One of the largest outdoor markets in Berlin, Mauerpark Flea Market (see page 235) is full to the brim with vintage clothes and antiques. It even features a karaoke bearpit where you can belt out your favourite tunes to (somewhat) supportive onlookers.

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Topography of Terror

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Rest up Berlin really tops the charts for great places to rest your head. Our top picks are The Hoxton (see page 184) for a romantic stay in leafy Charlottenberg, The Circus Hotel (see page 182) for a sustainable stopover in buzzing Mitte and Hüttenpalast (see page 185) for a quirky stay in a vintage caravan in the heart of Neukölln.

Get cultured One of the most impressive collections of contemporary art in Europe – boasting the likes of Andy Warhol, Anselm Kiefer and Cy Twombly – can be found at the Hamburger Bahnhof, a beautiful former train station (see page 109).

Learn about Berlin’s history Housed in the former Gestapo headquarters, the Topography of Terror (see page 124) is one of the world’s most thought provoking and sobering museums on the horrors of Nazism.

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15

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Berlin has to offer on a short trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a subjective selection of the city’s highlights, ranging from high-octane nightlife to lip-smacking local cuisine and outstanding architecture. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

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1 Fernsehturm

See page 80

Love or loathe its concrete curves, this incongruous Eastern Bloc relic has the best views over the city.

Copyright (c) 2017 RadioSounds/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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2 East Side Gallery

See page 131

The Berlin Wall was always famous for its graffiti, and now, on the longest remaining stretch, vivid murals record its demise.

Roger d’Olivere Mapp/Rough Guides

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3 Berliner Weisse

See page 209

Few would argue that this brew is one of the world’s best, but since you order it in either green or red it must be one of the most unusual.

Roger d’Olivere Mapp/Rough Guides

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4 The Reichstag

See page 60

Perhaps Germany’s most famous landmark, this muscular Neoclassical building now has a magnificent glass cupola you can walk round for free – though be sure to book in advance.

Copyright (c) 2019 Mummert-und-Ibold/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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5 Hackesche Höfe

See page 89

A series of elegant early twentieth-century courtyards filled with stylish cafés and boutiques.

Copyright (c) 2016 canadastock/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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6 GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER

See page 95

The most significant completely preserved section of the Wall forms part of a memorial to all the suffering caused by Berlin’s division.

Copyright (c) 2013 PHOTOCREO Michal Bednarek/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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7 BRANDENBURGER TOR

See page 59

Portal to Berlin’s most impressive street and witness to several historical episodes: Napoleon stole the Quadriga; the Soviets built the Berlin Wall around it, then the world watched as the Wall tumbled down beside it.

Copyright (c) 2010 Andrei Nekrassov/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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8 Sanssouci

See page 171

The prettiest of a series of fine Potsdam palaces that lie within easy reach of Berlin.

Shutterstock

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9 Currywurst

See page 197

Berlin snack bars serve every type of German sausage, but be sure to try Currywurst, a local speciality.

Copyright (c) 2018 frantic00/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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10 NIGHTLIFE

See page 206

You can party all night in Berlin’s bewildering array of bars and clubs; world-famous Berghain has been called the best club on the planet.

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11 Tiergarten

See page 106

Full of attractive lakes and wooded nooks, and just steps away from many headline attractions.

Copyright (c) 2017 Svet foto/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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12 SONY CENTER

See page 101

Spectacular corporate architecture along the former Wall death strip.

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13 Museum ISLAND

See page 73

This cluster of world-class museums includes the exquisite Neues Museum, with its Ancient Egyptian treasures.

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14 KaDeWe

See page 115

A gigantic, classy department store with an excellent gourmet food court.

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15 Jüdisches Museum

See page 122

The stunning Libeskind-designed building is a worthy home for this affecting museum.

Copyright (c) 2020 gdim/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Berlin is a sprawling city, with several main drags and no defined centre. These itineraries – three day-long options and one all-nighter – will help you make the most of the place, and are easily followed with the help of a public transport Tageskarte (day ticket), plus some single tickets for the night-owl tour.

IMPERIAL BERLIN

Brandenburger Tor Berlin’s foremost landmark and one of its biggest tourist attractions. A must for first-time visitors. See page 59

Reichstag and Holocaust memorials Climb the dome of this historic building for great city views. Then pay your respects at the four thought-provoking memorials nearby. See pages 60, 61 and 104

Lunch Reserve in advance and enjoy a gourmet lunch with a view at Käfer Dachgarten in the Reichstag (see page 192); opt for classic Austrian dishes at old-fashioned Café Einstein (see page 197); or for budget options try sushi at Ishin (see page 192) or head for one of the many handy places in and around Potsdamer Platz (see page 194).

Gendarmenmarkt and Unter den Linden Walk off your lunch by wandering the length of Unter den Linden, with side trips to the elegant plazas of Gendarmenmarkt (see page 65) and Bebelplatz (see page 63). Stop en route at the Berlin Story shop (see page 231) to browse its selection of books about the city.

Boat trip For a change of pace and a different angle, take a boat trip along the River Spree from the quays beside Museum Island. See page 46

Hackesche Höfe Finish the day with a wander around these pleasant urban courtyards and surrounding streets, filled with restaurants and bars. See page 89

GDR BERLIN

Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer The Wall memorial on Bernauer Strasse has fascinating, and free, indoor and outdoor exhibitions. See page 95

Tränenpalast Discover what division really meant to the city at this former pedestrian border crossing. See page 94

DDR Museum Get hands on with GDR culture at this fun interactive museum. Nearby, on the edge of the Marx-Engels-Forum, monuments to these two icons of communism offer a fascinating glimpse into East German ideology. See page 82

Fernsehturm Gawp at the bleak GDR architecture of Alexanderplatz before taking a trip up the Fernsehturm for tremendous views over the city. See page 80

Karl-Marx-Allee Take in the vast dimensions of this communist boulevard where monumentalist, wedding-cake style architecture produced palaces for workers, not American egg-boxes! and admire the original Kino International, as featured in the film Good Bye Lenin! See page 131

Coffee Grab coffee and cake (or ice cream) at Café Sibylle, which also hosts a small but informative exhibition about Karl-Marx-Allee. See page 201

East Side Gallery Finish up at the largest remaining section of the Berlin Wall, one of the world’s largest open-air galleries, which now has a related museum. See page 131

BUDGET BERLIN

Breakfast Start the day at Morgenrot, a bohemian café in Prenzlauer Berg where you pay according to your income. See page 202

Bus it Hop on the underground for a couple of stops to Alexanderplatz then take bus #100 or #200 in a loop for a free sightseeing tour of some of the city’s main sights. See page 46

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche On the #100 and #200 bus routes and close to Zoo Station, this dramatically shattered memorial church has a small exhibition on Berlin at the end of World War II. See page 114

Humboldt Forum Take in some art and culture at the newly opened Humboldt Forum. The permanent exhibit is free, but you may need to book ahead online. See page 70

Lunch Joseph Roth Diele, a charming restaurant nearby dedicated to the cult Austrian writer, offers excellent lunch deals. See page 198

Topographie des Terrors Built on the grounds of the former SS Headquarters, this memorial of Gestapo horrors will leave you reeling. See page 124

Holocaust memorials If you have time and energy, explore the moving Holocaust memorials, a short walk away. See pages 61 and 104

Evening drinks End your day at Weinerei Forum, a low-key hangout where you pay what you feel is fair for the wine. See page 210

NIGHT-OWL BERLIN

Dine in Spandauer Vorstadt Get your night started with dinner around Oranienburger Strasse, for example at Frea or the Schwarzwaldstuben. See page 194

The Reichstag Either walk along the river or hop on the S-Bahn for one stop to Brandenburger Tor for a late tour of Germany’s parliament building. Take time to check out the incredible sunset and night views over central Berlin. Book ahead. See page 60

Potsdamer Platz The roof of the Sony Center includes an impressive light show best enjoyed from the cafés and bars in its atrium. See page 101

East Side Gallery Take bus #200, #M48 or the underground to Alexanderplatz, admire the Fernsehturm, then take the S-Bahn to Ostbahnhof to walk southeast along the length of the East Side Gallery. See page 131

Eastern Kreuzberg Take the underground one stop, or cross the Spree on the Oberbaumbrücke. Grab a burger at Burgermeister before exploring the neighbourhood’s countless bars and legendary clubs, like SO36 and Kater Blau. See pages 216 and 217.

://about blank End the night on one of two indoor dancefloors at this club a short walk from Ostrkeuz S-Bahnhof. It’s a great spot for summer nights too; DJs spin techno and house music seemingly non-stop throughout the weekend in the garden. See page 217

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Sustainable travel

More and more travellers are becoming aware of the importance of travelling sustainably and impacting the environment as little as possible during their adventures.

When people think of Berlin, they might think of its storied streets and buildings, hedonistic nightlife and vibrant metropolitan feel, rather than its many wide-open green spaces, commitment to sustainability and the eco-conscious Berliners that bring green innovation to the city. Berlin is one of the greenest cities in Europe, boasting more parks, gardens and forests than any other European city. Eco-savvy Berliners are committed to a more sustainable lifestyle – cycling is a big part of Berlin culture, second-hand is cooler (and cheaper) and vegan-only restaurants are popping up in neighbourhoods well outside the traditional veggie strongholds of Kreuzberg, et al. Here we explore some of the ways you can minimize your footprint when visiting Berlin.

Discover Berlin’s green side

Nearly half of Berlin is made up of green spaces, parks, forests and gardens. Whether picnicking in one of Berlin’s largest inner-city parks like Tiergarten (see page 106), enjoying an evening stroll in Tempelhofer Feld (see page 125) or breathing in the fresh forest air of Grunewald (see page 162), Berlin is a city that offers respite and relief from its own hectic urbanity. One of the best ways to explore Berlin’s green side is by joining the sustainable walking tour with Green Bike Tours (https://bit.ly/3Ng7cGB). The 2-hour walking tour takes you through some of Berlin’s best green spaces and you’ll learn about sustainable urban planning and green architecture along the way – and yes, they offer green bike tours too!

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Vintage clothes at a flea market

Copyright (c) 2017 Tito Slack/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Saddle up

Exploring Berlin on two wheels is by far the greenest way to get the most out of the city. There are plenty of signposted bike paths and scenic routes through the city: cycle along the decommissioned runways of Tempelhofer Feld (see page 125), follow the historic Berlin Wall Trail (see map page 103), tour around leafy Tiergarten (see page 106) or enjoy some peace and quiet in Grunewald (see page 162). You can also venture further out of the city and explore Potsdam’s charming hinterland (see page 168) and Spandau’s old town (see page 165). There are plenty of bike tour specialists that will guide you on two-wheeled spins around the city. Fat Tire Bike Tours (see page 46) offer themed tours with local experts, wheeling through the palaces and gardens of Potsdam or between the city’s most (in)famous clubs, dropping by a night market along the way.

Ditch the meat

German cuisine may still be associated with hearty meat dishes, but Berlin is serving up some of the freshest and most exciting takes on meat-free eating in Europe. From vegan versions of Berlin classics like Currywurst (see page 199 - Curry 36) and German favourites like schnitzel (see page 203 – Försters – Das Vegane Restaurant), to vegan Vietnamese joints (see page 202 – Chay Viet) and Turkish vendors serving up crispy falafels in stuffed sandwiches (see page 193– Dada Falafel). Riding the wave of love for meat-free food options, there are now restaurants that focus on bringing sustainability to the fine-dining world, such as vegan zero-waste restaurant FREA (see page 193) and Michelin-star Cookies Cream (see page 192), that takes all the humbleness out of the humble vegetable.

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The Reichstag government building

Copyright (c) 2015 Radiokafka/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Shop for some pre-loved fashion

Fashion savvy Berlin is home to plenty of great places to purchase some pre-loved items. From flea markets to vintage shops, the city is a real vintage fashion lover’s paradise. Set over four floors, the giant Humana (see page 232) in Friedrichshain is a great place to pick up a pre-loved bargain or 15. There’s also the huge flea market in Mauerpark (see page 235), where you can hunt for vintage gems – think rare records, 90s fashion, mid-century furniture and costume jewellery. Berlin is also home to many great independent vintage shops (see page 232) and you’ll likely find one in any neighbourhood you happen to be visiting on any given day.

Explore Berlin via its waterways

Boarding a boat and exploring Berlin via its rivers, canals and lakes lets you see the city from a different angle and reduces congestion on the roads. Consider opting for an electric or renewable-energy powered boat to make this a more environmentally friendly mode of transport. Navigate the inner-city canals on an architecture tour (see page 46) or take a day-trip to Wansee or Potsdam (see page 168). Stern und Kreis Schiffahrt (https://sternundkreis.de) set off for tours of the Havel See with trips to Potsdam, Köpenick and Schloss Charlottenburg. There’s also the Berlin Wassertaxi (https://berliner-wassertaxi.de), which offers one-hour tours through the historic centre.

Stay at an eco-friendly hotel

Hotels in Berlin are looking to improve their green credentials by introducing eco-friendly practices. The Circus Hotel (see page 182) in Mitte, is a perfect example. The hotel has solar panels and an innovative air conditioning system, inspired by clay cooling techniques, that turns excess heat into electricity. The chic Scandic Berlin Potsdamer Platz hotel (see page 183) claims to be the greenest in Berlin, and that claim is not without its veracity. The breakfast buffet is carefully thought out: there are no disposable sachets on offer here, and every ingredient is sourced locally – the honey comes from hives on the roof.

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Basics

Getting there

The quickest and generally cheapest way of reaching Berlin from the UK and Ireland is by air, a journey of around ninety minutes. It is, however, possible to travel by train or by car via a ferry. Direct flights link Berlin to New York, Miami and Los Angeles, which can also prove useful routes for visitors from Australia and New Zealand, though changing flights at a major European hub such as London, Amsterdam or Frankfurt – the only option for South African travellers – will probably be less expensive.

Airfares vary considerably according to the season, with the highest around June to August; fares drop during the shoulder seasons – April and May, September and October – and you’ll get the best prices during the low season, November to March (excluding Christmas and New Year when prices are hiked up and seats are at a premium). Flying at weekends will also usually raise the price of a return fare.

Image ID:101-1

The East Side Gallery graffiti art

Copyright (c) 2015 EQRoy/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Direct scheduled flights to Berlin are available from London airports with British Airways, easyJet, Eurowings, Lufthansa, Norwegian and Ryanair. Other UK airports with direct flights to Berlin include Birmingham (Air Berlin, Lufthansa, Norwegian, Eurowings); Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Newcastle and Manchester (easyJet, Eurowings); Leeds (Jet2); and Nottingham (Ryanair). In Ireland both Ryanair and Aer Lingus offer direct flights from Dublin.

The published return fare of the national airlines can cost as much as £300, but in reality booking at least a couple of weeks in advance can easily halve this amount. Prices with the budget airlines such as easyJet and Ryanair can start as low as £40 for a return, but you’ll often need to book at least a month ahead to secure this and extra fees may apply, from checking in bags to failing to print out your own boarding pass.

Flights from the US and Canada

There are several daily scheduled flights from North America to Berlin, with a choice of carriers and destinations. United Airlines, Lufthansa and American Airlines fly direct from New York. If you are starting your journey from elsewhere in the US, you may well find a cheaper and better connection via a major European hub. Canadians will also end up flying via a major European hub and are unlikely to make any real savings by flying to the US first.

The lowest discounted scheduled return fares you’re likely to get in low/high season flying midweek are US$550/$1000 from New York, Boston or Washington DC; US$600/$1200 from Chicago; US$600/$1400 from Los Angeles or Seattle, and US$600/$1100 from San Francisco. Canadians have fewer direct-flight options than Americans. The widest selections are out of Toronto and Montreal, with low/high-season fares to Berlin from around Can$600/$1000; from Vancouver expect to pay from Can$1000/$1400.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

There are no direct flights to Berlin from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa; most airlines use Amsterdam, Frankfurt, London or Paris as their European gateway. All involve either a transfer or overnight stop en route in the airline’s hub city: bargain on flying times from the Antipodes of around 24 hours via Asia and around thirty hours via the US; from South Africa the shortest flight times, including transfer, are around 17 hours.

Flights to Europe are generally cheaper via Asia than the US, and typical low season/high-season economy fares from Sydney, Australia start at around Aus$1200/$2000. Low season/high-season scheduled fares from Auckland start at around NZ$1600/$2500. From South Africa you’ll pay between ZAR6500 and ZAR13000, depending on the season.

Trains

Travelling to Berlin by train can cost more and takes far longer than flying, but is fairly hassle-free and many – not least anxious flyers – find it a more pleasant experience. By far the fastest and most popular train route to Berlin begins with Eurostar (https://eurostar.com) from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord (3hr), with a change of stations to Paris Gare de l’Est for the onward overnight train to Berlin (10hr). Return tickets for the complete journey begin at around £140, depending on your seating, when you travel and how far in advance you book. You can also get through-ticketing – including the London Underground journey to St Pancras International – from regional mainline stations in Britain.

Rail passes

You can buy a rail pass for the entire German rail network from Deutsche Bahn (https://bahn.com). InterRail (https://interrail.eu) and Eurail passes (https://eurail.com) – the latter for non-European residents only – include other European countries.

Buses

Travelling to Berlin by bus won’t bring any major savings over the cheapest airfares, and the journey will be long and uncomfortable, interrupted every three to four hours by stops at motorway service stations. The main advantage is that you can buy an open return at no extra cost and it’s more eco-friendly.

Services are run by Eurolines (https://eurolines.com) from Victoria Coach Station in London. There are one – and sometimes two – buses daily to Berlin; the journey takes around twenty hours and costs around £150 return, though regular promotions and discounts for those under 26 can cut the cost up to 20 percent. Starting your journey outside London can add considerably to the time, but little to the cost – the complete journey time from Edinburgh is 37 hours, but tickets start from £120. If you are travelling elsewhere in Europe you might consider buying a Eurolines Pass. Busabout, meanwhile, runs guided bus tours of Europe for young people and offers a hop-on, hop-off bus pass (https://busabout.com).

Airlines, agents and operators

Airlines

Aer Lingus https://aerlingus.com

Air Canada https://aircanada.com

Air France https://airfrance.com

Air New Zealand https://airnewzealand.com

British Airways https://ba.com

Cathay Pacific https://cathaypacific.com

Delta https://delta.com

easyJet https://easyjet.com

Eurowings https://eurowings.com

Jet2 https://jet2.com

KLM https://klm.com

LOT (Polish Airlines) https://lot.com

Lufthansa https://lufthansa.com

Norwegian https://norwegian.com

Qantas Airways https://qantas.com.au

Ryanair https://ryanair.com

SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) https://flysas.com

South African Airways https://flysaa.com

Swiss https://swiss.com

United Airlines https://united.com

Agents and operators

Martin Randall Travel UK https://martinrandall.com. Small-group cultural tours, usually accompanied by lecturers: an eight-day Berlin, Potsdam, Dresden package costs around £3970.

North South Travel UK https://northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

STA Travel https://statravel.co.uk. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes, and more. Good discounts for students and under-26s.

Trailfinders UK https://trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

Travel CUTS https://travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

USIT Ireland https://usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists.

Arrival

All points of arrival lie within easy reach of the city centre via inexpensive and efficient public transport; the farthest of the city’s two airports is just 25 minutes by train from Berlin’s city-centre Hauptbahnhof, which is also where trains from all over Europe converge. Some trains also stop at other major stations such as Bahnhof Zoo, Alexanderplatz and the Ostbahnhof, which may be more convenient for your destination.

Public transport tickets are valid for the entire system of trams, buses and suburban and underground trains. If you plan to use public transport throughout your stay, then it’s worth getting a ticket that covers several days (see page 45). All tickets can be validated to cover your journey from the airport and are available from ticket machines at all points of arrival. In addition, a handful of upmarket hotels offer courtesy shuttles.

By plane

After many delays the Berlin Brandenburg Airport (BER) (https://berlin-airport.de) – originally scheduled to open in 2010 – officially opened its doors in 2020. Both Schönefeld and Tegel airport closed around this time leaving Berlin Brandenburg Airport as the single commercial airport serving Berlin.

Berlin Brandenburg Airport

Newly constructed and eagerly awaited Berlin Brandenburg Airport (BER), 23km southeast of Alexanderplatz, mostly serves budget airlines and holiday charters. The train station is a five-minute walk from the terminal; from here you can get the Airport Express train, which takes 30 minutes to reach the Hauptbahnhof, or the S-Bahn, which also takes about 30 minutes but may be more convenient as it has more stops; the same BVG zone ABC ticket is valid on either service (see page 45). Long queues at the ticket machines in the underground passageway can usually be avoided by buying tickets from identical machines on the platform. A taxi into the town centre from the airport costs around €45–50, depending on the specific destination.

By train

Trains from European destinations generally head straight to the swanky Hauptbahnhof, which has late-opening shops and all the facilities you would expect from a major train station. The station is also a stop on the major S-Bahn line, and on the U-Bahn network. Your train ticket may well include use of zones A and B of the city’s public transport system (see page 45) at the end of your journey: if you’re not sure, check with the conductor or at the ticket office.

By bus

Most international buses and those from other German cities stop at the Zentraler Omnibus-bahnhof or ZOB (Central Bus Station; https://iob-berlin.de), Masurenallee, Charlottenburg, west of the centre, near the Funkturm. Several city buses, including the #M49 service to the centre, and the U-Bahn from U-Kaiserdamm, link it to the Ku’damm area, a journey of about fifteen minutes. The bus station has an information booth, a taxi stand and a couple of snack places.

By car

Getting into Berlin by car is relatively easy as Germany’s famed autobahns (Autobahnen) pass reasonably close to the city centre. It may, however, be a long trip – the autobahns are very congested and delays are the norm. From the west you’re most likely to approach on autobahn A2, which will turn into A10 (the ring-road around Berlin), from which you turn off onto A115, a highway that eases you onto Kaiserdamm on the western side of the city, from where it is just fifteen minutes to Zoo station. From the south you’ll approach on autobahn A9, but the route once you hit the A10 is the same. Drivers coming from the Hamburg area will approach from the north on M24, which also turns into A10, but this time you take the A111 into the Charlottenburg district of Berlin.

City transport

Berlin’s public transport network is well integrated, efficient and inexpensive. The cornerstone of the system is the web of fast suburban (S-Bahn) and underground (U-Bahn) trains, which are supplemented on the streets by buses and trams. All are run by the BVG, whose network looks complicated at first glance but quickly becomes easy to navigate.

On board, illuminated signs and announcements ensure it’s easy to find the right stop. Tickets are available from machines at stations and on trams, or from bus drivers – but in all cases be sure to validate them by punching them in a red or yellow machine when you travel. Apart from their colour the machines are identical, serve exactly the same function and are strategically placed by the entrance of every bus, tram or platform. Failure to punch your ticket will result in spot fines.

Public transport

The U-Bahn subway is clean, punctual and rarely crowded. Running both under- and overground, it covers much of the centre and stretches into the suburbs: trains run from 4am to around 12.30am, and all night on Friday and Saturday. Once they have closed down for the night their routes are usually covered by night buses – denoted by a number with the prefix N.

The S-Bahn system is a separate network of suburban trains, which runs largely overground. It’s better for covering long distances fast and effectively, and complements the U-Bahn in the city centre. It runs until 1.30am on week nights and all night on Friday and Saturday.

You never have to wait long for a bus in the city and the network covers most gaps in the U-Bahn system, with buses converging on Zoo Station and Alexanderplatz. Buses #100 and #200, between the two, are particularly good for sightseeing. Night buses mostly run every half-hour and routes often differ from daytime ones.

Berlin’s quiet and comfortable trams operate for the most part in the eastern section of the city, where the network has survived from pre-war days.

MetroBuses and MetroTrams, their numbers preceded by the letter M, are the core services, running particularly frequently and all night.

Information and maps

For more information about Berlin’s public transport system, call BVG (Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe) or check their website (https://bvg.de) which has complete listings and timetables for the U- and S-Bahn systems, plus bus, tram and ferry routes; the BVG FahrInfo Plus app is also very useful. There are also transport information offices at Zoo Station, the Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstrasse and Alexanderplatz, where you can also buy a complete and highly detailed guide to services, and even souvenirs of the network.

Kiosks on the platforms at most U-Bahn stations also provide simple free maps of the U- and S-Bahn, trams and some bus services.

Tickets

The same tickets are valid for all BVG services, allowing transfers between different modes of transport as well as all other public transport services within the VBB (Verkehrsverbund Berlin-Brandenburg) system, which includes buses and trams in Potsdam, Oranienburg and even Regional Express trains (marked RE when operating within the city limits). Tickets can be bought from the machines on U- and S-Bahn station platforms. These take €5, €10 and €20 notes and all but the smallest coins, give change and have a basic explanation of the ticketing system in English. Plain-clothes inspectors frequently cruise the lines, meting out on-the-spot fines of €60 for anyone without a correct ticket or pass that has been validated by a red or yellow machine (see page 44). You can also buy tickets, including day tickets, directly from