The Rough Guide to Sri Lanka: Travel Guide eBook

By Rough Guides

This Sri Lanka guidebook is perfect for independent travellers planning a longer trip. It features all of the must-see sights and a wide range of off-the-beaten-track places. It also provides detailed practical information on preparing for a trip and what to do on the ground. And this Sri Lanka travel guidebook is printed on paper from responsible sources, and verified to meet the FSC’s strict environmental and social standards.

This Sri Lanka guidebook covers: Colombo and the west coast, the south, Kandy and the hill country, the Cultural Triangle, the east, Jaffna and the north.

Inside this Sri Lanka travel book, you’ll find:

• A wide range of sights – Rough Guides experts have hand-picked places for travellers with different needs and desires: off-the-beaten-track adventures, family activities or chilled-out breaks
• Itinerary examples – created for different time frames or types of trip
• Practical information – how to get to Sri Lanka, all about public transport, food and drink, shopping, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, tips for travellers with disabilities and more
• Author picks and things not to miss in - Sri Lanka– Cricket, Adam's Peak, Big Buddhas, Galle, Yala National Park, World's End, rice & curry, birds, Kataragama, Anuradhapura, Bawa hotels, Sigiriya, Ella, The Pettah, whale and dolphin-watching, Polonnaruwa, Bentota, Kandy Esala Perahera, Sinharaja, Ayurveda, Arugam Bay, Kandyan dancing and drumming, Dambulla, Mirissa, Kandy
• Insider recommendations – tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money, and find the best local spots
• When to go to Sri Lanka – high season, low season, climate information and festivals 
• Where to go – a clear introduction to Sri Lanka with key places and a handy overview 
• Extensive coverage of regions, places and experiences – regional highlights, sights and places for different types of travellers, with experiences matching different needs
• Places to eat, drink and stay – hand-picked restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels
• Practical info at each site – hours of operation, websites, transit tips, charges
• Colour-coded mapping – with keys and legends listing sites categorised as highlights, eating, accommodation, shopping, drinking and nightlife
• Background information for connoisseurs – history, culture, art, architecture, film, books, religion, diversity
• Essential Sinhala and Tamil dictionary and glossary of local terms 
• Fully updated post-COVID-19

The guide provides a comprehensive and rich selection of places to see and things to do in Sri Lanka, as well as great planning tools. It’s the perfect companion, both ahead of your trip and on the ground.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Jul 1, 2024
• ISBN: 9781835291009

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

Book preview

cover.jpg

Shutterstock

Shutterstock

Contents

INTRODUCTION

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

Things not to miss

Itineraries

Sustainable travel

BASICS

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Eating and drinking

Health

The media

Festivals and public holidays

Sport and outdoor activities

National parks, reserves and eco-tourism

Cultural values and etiquette

Shopping

Travelling with children

Costs

Travel essentials

THE GUIDE

1Colombo and the west coast

2The south

3Kandy and the hill country

4The Cultural Triangle

5The east

6Jaffna and the north

CONTEXTS

History

Sri Lankan Buddhism

Sri Lankan Buddhist art and architecture

Sri Lankan wildlife

Ceylon tea

Books

Language

SMALL PRINT

Shutterstock

Introduction to

Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka has seduced travellers for centuries. Marco Polo called it the finest island of its size in the world, while successive waves of Indian, Arab and European traders and adventurers flocked to its palm-fringed shores, attracted by reports of rare spices, precious stones and magnificent elephants. Poised just above the Equator amid the balmy waters of the Indian Ocean, the island has inspired a sense of romance even in those who have never visited the place. Fancifully minded geographers, poring over maps of the island, likened its outline to a teardrop falling from the tip of India or to the shape of a pearl (the more practical Dutch compared it to a leg of ham), while even the name given to the island by early Arab traders, Serendib, gave rise to the English word serendipity – an unexpected discovery leading to a happy end.

Marco Polo’s bold claim still holds true. Sri Lanka packs an extraordinary variety of attractions into its modest physical dimensions. Idyllic beaches fringe the coast, while the interior boasts a compelling variety of landscapes ranging from wildlife-rich lowland jungles, home to extensive populations of elephants, leopards and rare endemic bird species, to the misty heights of the hill country, swathed in immaculately manicured tea plantations. There are plenty of man-made attractions too. Sri Lanka boasts more than two thousand years of recorded history, and the remarkable achievements of the early Sinhalese civilization can still be seen in the sequence of ruined cities and great religious monuments that litter the northern plains.

The glories of this early Buddhist civilization continue to provide a symbol of national pride, while Sri Lanka’s historic role as the world’s oldest stronghold of Theravada Buddhism lends it a unique cultural identity which permeates life at every level. There’s more to Sri Lanka than just Buddhists, however. The island’s geographical position at one of the most important staging posts of Indian Ocean trade laid it open to a uniquely wide range of influences, as generations of Arab, Malay, Portuguese, Dutch and British settlers subtly transformed its culture, architecture and cuisine, while the long-established Tamil population in the north have established a vibrant Hindu culture that owes more to India than to the Sinhalese south.

Fact file

Lying a few degrees north of the Equator, Sri Lanka is slightly smaller than Ireland and a little larger than the US state of West Virginia.

Sri Lanka achieved independence from Britain in 1948, and did away with its colonial name, Ceylon, in 1972. The country has had a functioning democracy since independence, and in 1960 elected the world’s first female prime minister.

Sri Lanka’s population of 23 million is a mosaic of different ethnic and religious groups, the two largest being the mainly Buddhist Sinhalese (75 percent), and the predominantly Hindu Tamils (15 percent); there are also considerable numbers of Christians and Muslims. Sinhala, Tamil and English are all officially recognized languages.

Sri Lankans enjoy a healthy life expectancy of 77 years and a literacy rate of over 92 percent.

Cricket is a countrywide obsession, although the official national sport is actually volleyball.

The country’s main export is clothing, followed by tea. Coconuts, cinnamon and precious gems are also important. Revenues from tourism are vital to the national economy, while remittances from the hundreds of thousands of Sri Lankans working overseas (mainly in the Gulf) are also significant.

It was, for a while, this very diversity that threatened to tear the country apart. For almost three decades Sri Lanka was the site of one of Asia’s most pernicious civil wars, as the Sri Lankan Army and the LTTE (or Tamil Tigers), battled it out in the island’s north and east, until the final victory of government forces in 2009. The years of peace since haven’t always been easy, with the island facing a string of political and financial challenges, culminating in the crippling economic crisis of 2021–2022, but Sri Lanka is now looking once again to the future with cautious optimism and the sense of better times ahead.

Where to go

All visits to Sri Lanka currently begin at the international airport just outside Colombo, the island’s capital and far and away its largest city – a sprawling metropolis whose contrasting districts offer an absorbing introduction to Sri Lanka’s myriad cultures and multilayered history. Many visitors head straight for one of the west coast’s beaches, whose innumerable resort hotels still power the country’s tourist industry. Destinations include the package-holiday resorts of Negombo and Beruwala, the more stylish Bentota, and the old hippy hangout of Hikkaduwa. More unspoilt countryside can be found north of Colombo at the Kalpitiya peninsula and in the vast Wilpattu National Park nearby, home to leopards, elephants and sloth bears.

Beyond Hikkaduwa, the south coast is significantly less developed. Gateway to the region is the marvellous old Dutch city of Galle, Sri Lanka’s finest colonial town, beyond which lies a string of fine beaches including the ever-expanding villages of Unawatuna and Mirissa along with quieter stretches of coast at Weligama and Tangalla, as well as the lively provincial capital of Matara, boasting further Dutch remains. East of here, Tissamaharama serves as a convenient base for the outstanding Yala and Bundala national parks, and for the fascinating temple town of Kataragama.

Shutterstock

STILT FISHERMEN NEAR GALLE

Sri Lankan Buddhism

Buddhism runs deep in Sri Lanka. The island was one of the first places to convert to the religion, in 247 BC, and has remained unswervingly faithful in the two thousand years since. As such, Sri Lanka is often claimed to be the world’s oldest Buddhist country, and Buddhism continues to permeate the practical life and spiritual beliefs of the majority of the island’s Sinhalese population. Buddhist temples can be found everywhere, often with superb shrines, statues and murals, while the sight of Sri Lanka’s orange-robed monks is one of the island’s enduring visual images. Buddhist places of pilgrimage – the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy, the revered footprint of the Buddha at Adam’s Peak, and the Sri Maha Bodhi at Anuradhapura – also play a vital role in sustaining the faith, while the national calendar is punctuated with religious holidays and festivals ranging from the monthly full-moon poya days through to more elaborate annual celebrations, often taking the form of enormous processions (peraheras), when locals parade through the streets, often accompanied by elaborately costumed elephants. For more on Buddhism click here.

Inland from Colombo rise the verdant highlands of the hill country, enveloped in the tea plantations (first introduced by the British) which still play a vital role in the island’s economy. The symbolic heart of the region is Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second city and the cultural capital of the Sinhalese, its colourful traditions embodied by the famous Temple of the Tooth and the magnificent Esala Perahera, Sri Lanka’s most colourful festival. South of here, close to the highest point of the island, lies the old British town of Nuwara Eliya, centre of the country’s tea industry and a convenient base for visits to the spectacular Horton Plains National Park. A string of towns and villages – including Ella and Haputale – along the southern edge of the hill country offer an appealing mixture of magnificent views, wonderful walks and olde-worlde British colonial charm. Close to the hill country’s southwestern edge, the soaring summit of Adam’s Peak is another of the island’s major pilgrimage sites, while the gem-mining centre of Ratnapura to the south serves as a starting point for visits to the elephant-rich Uda Walawe National Park and the rare tropical rainforest of Sinharaja.

North of Kandy, the hill country tumbles down into the arid plains of the northern dry zone. This area, known as the Cultural Triangle, was the location of Sri Lanka’s first great civilization, and its extraordinary scatter of ruined palaces, temples and dagobas still gives a compelling sense of this glorious past. Foremost among these are the fascinating ruined cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the marvellous cave temples of Dambulla, the hilltop shrines and dagobas of Mihintale and the extraordinary rock citadel of Sigiriya.

The two main gateways to the east are the cities of Trincomalee and Batticaloa, each boasting a clutch of colonial remains backed by bays and lagoons. Elsewhere, the east’s huge swathe of coastline remains largely undeveloped. A cluster of upmarket resort hotels dot the seafront at Passekudah, north of Batticaloa, although most visitors prefer the more laidback beachside charms of sleepy Nilaveli and Uppuveli, just north of Trincomalee, or the chilled-out surfing centre of Arugam Bay, at the southern end of the coast. Further afield, the north remains relatively untouristed, although increasing numbers of visitors are making the journey to the absorbing city of Jaffna, while a side trip to remote Mannar, closer to India than Colombo, is another enticing possibility.

Shutterstock

THE GOLDEN TEMPLE IN DAMBULLA

< Back to Intro

When to go

Sri Lanka’s climate is rather complicated for such a small country, due to the fact that the island is affected by two separate monsoons – though this also means that there is usually good weather somewhere on the island, at most times of the year. It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that the basic pattern described below can vary significantly from year to year, and that global warming has disrupted these already complex weather patterns.

The basic rainfall pattern is as follows. The main southwest (yala) monsoon brings rain to the west and southwest coasts and hill country from April or May to September (wettest from April to June). The less severe northeast (maha) monsoon hits the east coast from November to March (wettest from November to December); there’s also a inter-monsoonal period of unsettled weather preceding the Maha monsoon in October and November during which heavy rainfall and thunderstorms can occur anywhere across the island. In practical terms, this means that the best time to visit the west and south coasts and hill country is from December to March, while the best weather on the east coast is from April or May to September.

Sri Lanka’s position close to the Equator means that temperatures remain fairly constant year-round. Coastal and lowland areas enjoy average daytime temperatures of around 26–30°C (often climbing up well into the 30°Cs during the hottest part of the day). Temperatures decrease with altitude, reducing to a temperate 18–22°C in Kandy, and a pleasantly mild 14–17°C in Nuwara Eliya and the highest parts of the island – nights in the hills can be quite chilly, with temperatures sometimes falling close to freezing. Humidity is high everywhere, rising to a sweltering ninety percent at times in the southwest, and averaging sixty to eighty percent across the rest of the island.

< Back to Intro

Author picks

Our much-travelled author has visited every corner of Sri Lanka in order to uncover the very best the island has to offer. Here are some of his personal highlights.

Classic journeys Ride the hill-country train through tea plantations to Badulla or drive the A9 north to Jaffna.

Multi-faith island Make a pilgrimage to one of Sri Lanka’s myriad religious destinations, including the revered summit of Adam’s Peak, the church of Madhu, or the spiritual melting-pot of Kataragama, held sacred by Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims alike.

Colonial Ceylon Step back in time amid the colonial streetscapes of Galle, Colombo Fort or at the old British tea-town of Nuwara Eliya.

Once more unto the beach Escape the crowds at the unspoiled southern beaches of Talalla, Rekawa or Kalametiya.

Wildlife on land and at sea Highlights including whales at Mirissa, turtles at Rekawa, dolphins at Kalpitiya, birds in Sinharaja, elephants at Minneriya and leopards at Yala.

Boutique bliss Crash out in style at one of the island’s dazzling array of boutique hotels, ranging from stylish contemporary beachside villas like Club Villa in Bentota to atmospheric old colonial-era lodgings like Ferncliff in Nuwara Eliya.

Flavours of Sri Lanka Dive into a hopper, unpack a lamprais, crunch some chilli crab or feast on a classic rice and curry – Nuga Gama in Colombo is a great place to get your taste buds oriented.

Rugged rambling Take a walk on the wild side through the spectacular hill country at Adam’s Peak, Horton Plains or the Knuckles Range – Sri Lanka at its most scenically dramatic.

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the symbol.

iStock

NUWARA ELIYA

iStock

YALA NATIONAL PARK

< Back to Intro

25

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Sri Lanka has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights, including astonishing religious and historic sites, unforgettable wildlife, scenery and beaches, and vibrant festivals. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more; the coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide section.

Shutterstock

1 CRICKET

Take part in a knock-around on the beach, or join the crowds of cricket-crazy spectators for a match in Colombo, Galle or Kandy.

Shutterstock

2 ADAM’S PEAK

One of Sri Lanka’s foremost pilgrimage sites, this soaring summit bears the revered impression of what is said to be the Buddha’s own footprint, and offers one of the island’s most magical – and enigmatic – views.

Gavin Thomas/Rough Guides

3 BIG BUDDHAS

The Buddha’s superhuman attributes are captured in a sequence of massive statues which dot the island, from the majestic ancient figures of Aukana, Sasseruwa and Polonnaruwa’s Gal Vihara to the contemporary colossi at Dambulla and Wehurukannala.

Shutterstock

4 GALLE

Sri Lanka’s most perfectly preserved colonial townscape, with sedate streets of personable Dutch-era villas enclosed by a chain of imposing ramparts.

Shutterstock

5 YALA NATIONAL PARK

Sri Lanka’s most popular and rewarding national park, home to birds, monkeys, crocodiles and elephants, as well as the island’s largest population of leopards.

Shutterstock

6 WORLD’S END

Marking the point at which the hill country’s southern escarpment plunges sheer for almost 1km to the plains below, these dramatic cliffs offer one of the finest of the hill country’s many unforgettable views.

Shutterstock

7 RICE AND CURRY

Eat your way through this classic Sri Lankan feast, with its mouthwatering selection of contrasting dishes and flavours.

Shutterstock

8 BIRDS

Sri Lanka is one of Asia’s classic birdwatching destinations, with species ranging from delicate bee-eaters and blue magpies to colourful kingfishers and majestic hornbills.

Shutterstock

9 KATARAGAMA

Join the crowds thronging to the colourful nightly temple ceremonies at this remote pilgrimage town, held sacred by Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims alike.

Shutterstock

10 ANURADHAPURA

This vast, mysterious ruined city bears witness to the great Sinhalese civilization that flourished here for some two thousand years.

Gavin Thomas/Rough Guides

11 BAWA HOTELS

With their blend of modern chic and superb natural settings, the hotels of architect Geoffrey Bawa exemplify contemporary Sri Lankan style.

Shutterstock

12 SIGIRIYA

Climb the towering rock outcrop of Sigiriya, home to the fascinating remains of one of the island’s former capitals, complete with ancient graffiti and elaborate water gardens.

Shutterstock

13 ELLA

One of the island’s most popular destinations, with marvellous views and walks among the surrounding tea plantations and hills.

Shutterstock

14 THE PETTAH

Colombo’s colourful, chaotic bazaar district offers an exhilarating slice of Asian life.

Shutterstock

15 WHALE- AND DOLPHIN-WATCHING

Take to the waves in search of magnificent blue and sperm whales, or pods of acrobatic spinner dolphins.

Shutterstock

16 POLONNARUWA

Quite simply the island’s finest collection of ancient Sinhalese art and architecture.

Shutterstock

17 BENTOTA

The unspoiled southern end of Bentota beach is home to a fine selection of luxury beachside hotels.

Shutterstock

18 KANDY ESALA PERAHERA

One of Asia’s most spectacular festivals, with huge processions of magnificently caparisoned elephants, ear-splitting troupes of Kandyan drummers and assorted dancers and acrobats.

Shutterstock

19 SINHARAJA

Unique region of pristine rainforest, home to towering trees, opulent orchids and rare endemic birds, lizards and amphibians.

Gavin Thomas/Rough Guides

20 AYURVEDA

Sri Lanka’s ancient system of healthcare uses herbal medicines and traditional techniques to promote holistic well-being.

Shutterstock

21 ARUGAM BAY

This remote east coast village has great sand and surf, lots of local wildlife and an appealingly chilled-out atmosphere.

Gavin Thomas/Rough Guides

22 KANDYAN DANCING AND DRUMMING

Traditional Sinhalese culture at its most exuberant, with brilliantly costumed dancers performing stylized dances to an accompaniment of explosively energetic drumming.

Shutterstock

23 DAMBULLA

These five magical cave temples are a treasure box of Sri Lankan Buddhist art, sumptuously decorated with a fascinating array of statues, shrines and the country’s finest collection of murals.

Shutterstock

24 MIRISSA

Laidback beachside village with a fine stretch of sand and world-class whale-watching.

Shutterstock

25 KANDY

Beautifully situated amid the central highlands, this historic city remains the island’s most important repository of traditional Sinhalese culture, exemplified by the great Esala Perahera festival and the Temple of the Tooth.

< Back to Intro

Itineraries

Sri Lanka is one of the biggest little countries in the world. The island’s modest size means that it’s possible to get a good taste of what’s on offer in just a couple of weeks, although, equally, attractions are crammed together so densely that you could easily spend a year in the place and still not see everything.

THE GRAND TOUR

Two weeks suffice to see Sri Lanka’s headline attractions, while an extra week would allow you to add on the places listed in the itineraries below.

Kandy Start in Kandy, cultural capital of Sri Lanka and a marvellous showcase of Sinhalese religious art, architecture and dance.

Dambulla Drive north to the cave temples at Dambulla, crammed with Buddhist statues and decorated with Sri Lanka’s finest murals.

Sigiriya The nearby rock citadel at Sigiriya is perhaps Sri Lanka’s single most dramatic attraction: the remains of a fifth-century palace perched on the summit of the vertiginous Lion Rock.

Polonnaruwa Another short drive leads to the marvellous ruined city of Polonnaruwa, home to some of medieval Sri Lanka’s finest art and architecture, including the giant Buddha statues of the Gal Vihara.

Horton Plains National Park Return to Kandy and then continue to Nuwara Eliya for a trip to Horton Plains National Park, a marvellously rugged stretch of unspoilt hill country culminating in the spectacular view at World’s End.

Ella Continue to lively little Ella village, set in a dramatic location amid tea plantations on the edge of the hill country.

Yala National Park Drive south to Yala National Park, home to one of the world’s densest populations of leopards, and much more besides.

Mirissa Spend some time on the beach and go on a whale-watching trip at the village of Mirissa.

Galle Continue around the coast to the city of Galle and its time-warped old Dutch Fort – colonial Sri Lanka at its most perfectly preserved.

Colombo Finish with a day or two in the nation’s energetic capital.

WILDLIFE AND NATURE

The following itinerary, which picks up on some of the best natural attractions not covered in the Grand Tour, could be done in a week, at a push, and could thus be combined with other attractions en route during a fortnight’s visit to the island.

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

The Knuckles Range Hike from Kandy into the rugged Knuckles Range, one of the island’s most beautiful and biodiverse areas.

Nuwara Eliya Head south to this venerable old colonial town in the heart of the hill country, with spectacular walks in the surrounding countryside.

Horton Plains National Park Sri Lanka’s most scenically stunning national park: a misty mix of moorland and cloudforest, home to rare indigenous flora and fauna.

Haputale Dramatically perched on the edge of the southern hill country and with fine hiking through the surrounding tea plantations, particularly the walk down from nearby Lipton’s Seat.

Bundala National Park One of Sri Lanka’s premier birdwatching destinations, spread out around a stunning string of coastal lagoons.

Rekawa Watch majestic marine turtles haul themselves ashore to lay their eggs on beautiful Rekawa beach.

Uda Walawe National Park Superb elephant-watching opportunities, either in the wild or at the attached Elephant Transit Home.

Sinharaja Stunning area of unspoilt rainforest, home to a significant array of rare endemic flora and fauna.

BUDDHISM AND BEACHES

A offbeat two-week alternative to the Grand Tour, featuring fewer mainstream destinations and mixing religion, culture and wildlife.

Kalpitiya Superb dolphin-watching, kite­surfing and some of the island’s finest eco-lodges on beautiful Alankuda beach.

Wilpattu National Park Enormous and very peaceful park famous for its leopards and elephants.

Anuradhapura The greatest city in Sri Lankan history, packed with monuments from over a thousand years of the island’s past.

Mihintale The birthplace of Buddhism in Sri Lanka, with a cluster of monuments clinging to a jungle-covered hillside.

Polonnaruwa Medieval Sri Lankan art and architecture at its finest, from the flamboyant to the brooding.

Batticaloa Vibrant but little-visited east coast town, famous for its singing fish and with a fine beach and lagoon.

Arugam Bay This quirky village is one of the most appealing places to hang out for a few days around the coast.

Kataragama Vibrant multi-faith pilgrimage town, a holy place for Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims.

Adam’s Peak The strenuous climb to the top of Adam’s Peak is the island’s ultimate pilgrimage, rewarded by a glimpse of the Buddha’s own footprint at the summit.

< Back to Intro

Sustainable travel

Sri Lanka boasts excellent ethical credentials, offering visitors plenty of ways of contributing to the preservation of the island’s beautiful natural environment and unique wildlife.

Sri Lanka has long been one of Asia’s greenest destinations, with almost thirty percent of the island now protected as a national park or other type of reserve, and sustainability taken seriously at both government and local level. Tourism revenues play a key role in helping protect the island’s wildlife and wild spaces, while money responsibly spent also brings much needed income to many less well-off Sri Lankans who might otherwise struggle.

Spread your spend

Deciding where to go is the first decision. Tourism is increasingly permeating every corner of the island, but it’s worth considering venturing slightly off the beaten track, both to escape the tourist hordes and to help spread your money more equitably. Places like Haputale, Ambalangoda, Mihintale and Kataragama have loads to offer, but see only a fraction of the visitors at other nearby tourist hotspots, while Wilpattu and Kumana national parks rival the much-better-known Yala in everything except the crowds. Or get completely off the beaten track with a trip to Jaffna or Batticaloa – two other rewarding destinations which still see relatively few visitors. Look out, too, for local community tourism projects such as the new Pekoe Trail and East N’ West On Board in Batticaloa, while increasing numbers of mainstream tour operators – Ayu in the Wild is a leading example – are incorporating local village tourism projects into their itineraries.

Try the train

Sri Lanka’s wonderful trains make an enjoyable and eco-friendly way of getting around the island. Alternatively, hiring a self-drive tuktuk (or a motorbike) offers total freedom with a significantly lower carbon footprint than going with a car and driver. Bicycles, too, are often a great option for shorter excursions, and are easily the best way of exploring the great ruined cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa.

Responsible stays

In terms of accommodation, pretty much all the island’s budget guesthouses (and many mid-range options too) are family-owned and operated, meaning that your money will go directly into the pockets of ordinary Sri Lankans – although you can still make a big difference by booking directly with places rather than through booking.com or other online portals, which often take massive bites out of guesthouses’ income. The big international hotel conglomerates have made relatively few inroads into Sri Lanka and the three largest local upmarket chains – Jetwing, Cinnamon and Heritance – are all still Sri Lankan-owned and boast (Jetwing in particular) an excellent record in terms of promoting sustainable development. Environmentally insensitive resorts to avoid include the Weligama Marriott, the horrendous Araliya Beach Resort in Unawatuna, and pretty much the whole of Passekudah.

Shutterstock

CROWDS OF JEEPS SURVEY A LEOPARD AT YALA

Wildlife consideration

Sri Lanka’s national parks generally offer a safe haven for wildlife, although even here you can make a difference. One major concern (particularly in Yala) is the harassing of the island’s wonderful leopards. Guides naturally assume that visitors won’t be satisfied until they’ve had a sighting of one of these iconic felines, meaning that when one is spotted every jeep within a five-mile radius descends on it in a feeding-frenzy. Making it clear that spotting a big cat isn’t the be-all and end-all of your visit will reduce stress, both for your guide and the prized animals themselves.

Elephant tourism in Sri Lanka (as in other countries across Asia) is a complex and emotive subject. Read more about this (see box, page 189) and do your own research before deciding what you believe is and isn’t acceptable. The same goes for turtle tourism, including the island’s many hatcheries.

Protecting the coast

Don’t buy any kind of marine products such as corals, shells etc. Sales of such products contribute directly to the degradation of the underwater environment, while attempting to take them out of the country is also illegal. Joining the regular beach clean-ups organized by groups such as Parley Sri Lanka ( parley.tv/sri-lanka) is a nice way to give something back.

Shutterstock

BEACH CLEAN-UP

Ditch the bottle

Sri Lanka has a good record in terms of plastics, with legislation passed between 2017 and 2023 outlawing a wide range of non-biodegradable single-use items, although plastic water bottles are still an unfortunate fact of life – consider bringing some form of water purifier or tablets, or bring a refillable bottle and just boil your own water (many places now provide kettles).

< Back to Intro

iStock

HAPUTALE

Basics

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Eating and drinking

Health

The media

Festivals and public holidays

Sport and outdoor activities

National parks, reserves and eco-tourism

Cultural values and etiquette

Shopping

Travelling with children

Costs

Travel essentials

Getting there

Unless you arrive on a cruise ship or catch the ferry from India, the only way to get to Sri Lanka is to fly into Bandaranaike International Airport (BMI) at Katunayake, just north of Colombo – at least pending the unlikely resumption of scheduled flights to Mattala Rajapakse airport at Hambantota. Air fares remain fairly constant year-round, although the further ahead you book your flight, the better chance you have of getting a good deal.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

The only nonstop scheduled flights from the UK to Sri Lanka are with SriLankan Airlines ( srilankan.com) from London Heathrow; flying time to Colombo is around eleven hours. Emirates ( emirates.com), Qatar Airways ( qatarairways.com), Etihad ( etihadairways.com) and Oman Air ( omanair.com) all offer one-stop flights from Heathrow via their home cities in the Gulf, and are generally much more comfortable than SriLankan flights). There are also more circuitous routings via various points in Southeast Asia, including Singapore ( singaporeair.com), Kuala Lumpur ( malaysiaairlines.com) and Bangkok ( thaiairways.com).

Travelling from Ireland, you can either make your way to Heathrow and pick up an onward connection there, or fly from Dublin via one of the three Gulf cities that have direct connections with Colombo, currently Dubai (Emirates), Abu Dhabi (Etihad) and Doha (Qatar Airways).

Flights from the US and Canada

It’s a long journey from North America to Sri Lanka. The flight from North America to Sri Lanka takes around twenty hours minimum, necessitating at least one change of plane. There are numerous one-stop routes via the Gulf from east coast cities including New York, Boston, Washington and Toronto with Emirates ( emirates.com), Etihad ( etihadairways.com) and Qatar Airways ( qatarairways.com), as well as other major USA hubs including Chicago, Atlanta, Dallas, Orlando and Miami. Travelling from the west coast, the most direct routes go via east or Southeast Asia, stopping in Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Bangkok, Shanghai or Guangzhou, all of which have nonstop connections on to Colombo.

Flights from Australia and New Zealand

From Australia, there are nonstop flights from Sydney and Melbourne with SriLankan Airlines ( srilankan.com). Otherwise, the fastest routings are one-stop options via Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. There are also a few one-stop options from New Zealand via Melbourne, Singapore, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.

Flights from the rest of Asia

Sri Lanka isn’t normally considered part of the overland Asian trail, although the island is well connected with other countries in South and Southeast Asia. There are regular nonstop flights with SriLankan Airlines ( srilankan.com) to numerous destinations in India, plus regular direct flights to other Asian hubs including Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Jakarta, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo and Seoul with SriLankan and other regional airlines. There are also direct connections to many places in the Gulf, including frequent services to Dubai (Emirates, emirates.com), Abu Dhabi (Etihad, etihad.com), Qatar (Qatar Airways, qatarairways.com) and Muscat (Oman Air, omanair.com).

Organized tours

Organized guided tours of the island – either with your own car and driver, or as part of a larger tour group – can be arranged through numerous companies both in Sri Lanka and abroad. Tours obviously take virtually all the hassle out of travelling. The downside is that they tend to be much of a muchness and you might also end up in a large group, unless you’re willing to fork out for a private tour.

A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage all our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

How do you solve a problem like MRIA?

A few miles outside the southern town of Hambantota, the gleaming Mattala Rajapaksa International Airport (MRIA) is the most infamous of the many vanity projects initiated during the rule of former president Mahinda Rajapakse. Dubbed The World’s Emptiest Airport, MRIA was opened in 2013 at a cost of $210m to provide Sri Lanka with a second international airport and also to serve as the major engine driving economic development of Rajapakse’s impoverished hometown and surrounding region. In the event it has proved an unmitigated disaster. The few airlines that decided to fly into MRIA rapidly withdrew their services due to lack of demand and the hangars were subsequently repurposed to store local rice harvests. As of the time of writing the airport was still unable to boast a single regular scheduled service – although it does see a trickle of charter flights serving the droves of Russian tourists now pouring into Sri Lanka and operated by airlines happy to overlook airport safety concerns including alleged dangerous crosswinds on runway approaches plus regular bird strikes.

Almost all the leading international Sri Lankan tour operators are based in the UK; travellers from North America and Australasia shouldn’t have any problems booking tours through these companies, although you might have to organize your own flights. Setting up a tour with a Colombo-based operator is a very viable alternative to arranging one at home, although they may well not work out any cheaper than their overseas rivals.

tour operators in the uk

Ampersand Travel ampersandtravel.com. Wide selection of upmarket cultural, nature and activity holidays.

Firefly fireflysrilanka.com. Beautifully crafted itineraries by leading local expert (and long-term Galle resident) Emma Boyle, offering tailor-made tours island-wide with a particular focus on family travel. Also rents out essential equipment for families travelling with small children.

Insider Tours insider-tours.com. Sri Lanka specialist offering customized, ethical tours in conjunction with local organizations.

On the Go Tours onthegotours.com. Mainstream but inexpensive eight- to fifteen-day group tours.

Red Dot Tours reddottours.com. Leading Sri Lankan specialists offering holidays based around wildlife, adventure, culture, cricket, golf and more, along with wedding and honeymoon packages. They also offer cheap flights and represent an outstanding selection of properties (including villas and bungalows) around the island in most price ranges.

Rickshaw Travel rickshawtravel.co.uk. Tailor-made tours, with good off-the-beaten-path options and good family packages.

Tell Tale Travel telltaletravel.co.uk. A range of private tours aiming to take you off the beaten track, including itineraries in the east, and photographic tours.

Tikalanka tikalanka.com. Tailor-made tours by a small Sri Lanka and Maldives specialist.

TransIndus transindus.co.uk. Leading South Asia specialist offering nine- to sixteen-day island-wide tours plus customized trips.

Wildlife Worldwide wildlifeworldwide.com. Wildlife-oriented trips, including whale- and dolphin-watching tours.

Tour operators in Sri Lanka

Ayu in the Wild ayuinthewild.com. Bespoke, sustainable holidays designed to get you under the skin of the island, with a proportion of profits given back to local community projects.

Boutique Sri Lanka boutiquesrilanka.com. Huge portfolio of mid- and top-range properties, including a vast selection of villas, plus itineraries customized to suit your interests, from beaches or Ayurveda to nature, surfing and adventure.

Destination Sri Lanka dsltours.com. Reliably excellent, very competitively priced customized island-wide tours by Nimal de Silva, one of Sri Lanka’s most professional and personable driver-guides, and his team.

Eco Team srilankaecotourism.com. Specialist eco-tourism and activity-holiday operator, offering a vast range of water- and land-based activities at locations island wide.

Jetwing Eco Holidays jetwingeco.com. Sri Lanka’s leading eco-tourism operator, offering a vast range of wildlife and adventure activities including birdwatching, leopard spotting, whale-watching, trekking, cycling, whitewater rafting and much more. Nature activities are led by an expert team of guides, including some of Sri Lanka’s top naturalists.

Jetwing Travels jetwingtravels.com. Travel division of Sri Lanka’s leading hotel group, with a range of island-wide tours including trekking, cycling, golfing, yoga and Ayurveda tours.

Sri Lanka Driver Tours srilankadrivertours.com. Family-run business, with honest, reliable drivers and a small selection of two- to ten-day tours – or create your own.

Sri Lanka in Style srilankainstyle.com. Luxurious tours with unusual and insightful itineraries (including golf, yoga and family) either customized or off the peg and accommodation in some of Sri Lanka’s most magical villas and boutique hotels.

< Back to Basics

Visas and entry requirements

Citizens of all European, North American and Australasian countries (except Russia) require a visa to visit Sri Lanka. Visas can still be obtained on arrival, although it’s easier (and cheaper) to apply in advance at eta.gov.lk for an online e-visa (also known as an ETA, or Electronic Travel Authorization). Note that e-visas can also be purchased from other online agents, although you’ll pay a surcharge, so stick to the official site.

The standard tourist visa is valid for thirty days and for two entries, and currently costs $50 online or $60 if arranged on arrival. It’s also possible to get a ninety-day tourist visa either in person or by post from your nearest embassy or consulate. You can also buy a thirty-day business visa online ($55), but these aren’t available on arrival. For all visas your passport must be valid for six months after the date of your arrival.

In Sri Lanka, the thirty-day tourist visa can be extended to six months online at eta.gov.lk. Alternatively, it can be extended three times up to a maximum of 270 days (60 days on first extension, 90 days on second and third) by visiting the Immigration Service Centre at the Department of Immigration in Colombo (Sri Subhithipura Road, Battaramula; Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm; immigration.gov.lk). You can extend your visa as soon as you get to Sri Lanka; the thirty days included in your original visa is included in the initial 90-day extension, giving you 120 days. You’ll need to bring one passport photo. Conditions for extensions are an onward ticket and proof of sufficient funds, although a credit card will probably suffice. Fees around around $55 per extension. Expect the whole procedure to take an hour or two.

Sri Lankan embassies and consulates

Australia and New Zealand srilanka.embassy.gov.au

Canada bit.ly/Canada-SriLanka

UK gov.uk/world/sri-lanka

US lk.usembassy.gov

< Back to Basics

Getting around

Getting around Sri Lanka is very much a tale of two halves. The construction of the island’s ever-expanding expressway network has given Sri Lanka its biggest infrastructure upgrade since colonial times and speeded up access to some parts of the country immeasurably. Equally, recent railway improvements mean that major inter-city expresses are now faster and more comfortable than ever before. Away from the expressways and major train lines, however, getting around many parts of the island can still be a frustratingly time-consuming process.

Buses are the standard (and often the fastest) means of transport, with services reaching even the remotest corners of the island. Trains offer a more relaxed means of getting about and will get you to many parts of the country – eventually. If you don’t want to put up with the vagaries of public transport, hiring a car and driver can prove a reasonably affordable and extremely convenient way of seeing the island in relative comfort. If you’re really in a rush, domestic flights operated by Cinnamon Air offer speedy connections between Colombo and other parts of the island.

THE FERRY FROM INDIA

Relaunched in October 2023 after a gap of forty years, the India-Sri Lanka ferry has a long and unusually convoluted history. This long-running service, formerly connecting Talaimannar in northern Sri Lanka and Rameswaram in southern India, was suspended at the outbreak of the civil war in 1983. Rumours that ferries would resume constantly did the rounds following the 2002 ceasefire, although it wasn’t until 2011 that sailings (between Colombo and Tuticorin) finally resumed, and then promptly stopped again after just six months when the operating company collapsed due to financial difficulties.

Now run by the government-owned Shipping Corporation of India, the newly launched service now connects the small town of Nagapattinam in India with the even smaller town of Kankesanthurai (KKS), just north of Jaffna. The high-speed catamaran-style ferry currently runs daily, leaving India at 7am and arriving in KKS at 11am, before heading back at 1.30pm; one-way tickets cost around $90. An online booking portal was due for launch in early 2024, although no details were available at the time of writing. Whether the new ferry lasts longer than its 2011 predecessor remains to be seen, although the fact that it has government backing is encouraging, and there are even rumours that if it is a success, services might also resume on the old Rameswaram–Talaimannar route as well.

Details of getting around by bike and specialist cycle tours are covered in the Sports and outdoor activities section.

By bus

Buses are the staple mode of transport in Sri Lanka, and any town of even the remotest consequence will be served by fairly regular connections. Buses come in a variety of forms. The basic distinction is between government or SLTB (Sri Lanka Transport Board) buses and private services.

SLTB buses

Almost all SLTB buses are rattling old TATA vehicles, usually painted red. These are often the oldest and slowest vehicles on the road, but can be slightly more comfortable than private buses in that the conductor won’t feel the same compulsion to squeeze as many passengers on board, or the driver to thrash the vehicle flat out in order to get to the next stop ahead of competing vehicles (accidents caused by rival bus drivers racing one another are not unknown).

Private buses

Private buses come in different forms. At their most basic, they’re essentially the same as SLTB buses, consisting of large, arthritic old rust buckets that stop everywhere; the only difference is that private buses will usually be painted white and emblazoned with the stickers of whichever company runs them. Some private companies operate slightly faster services, large buses known variously as semi-express, express or intercity, which (in theory at least) make fewer stops en route.

At the top end of the scale, private minibuses – often described as express and/or luxury services (although the description should be taken with a large pinch of salt) – offer the fastest way of getting around. These are smaller vehicles with air conditioning and tinted, curtained windows; luggage usually ends up in the space next to the driver (since there’s nowhere else for it to go), although some conductors might make you put it on the seat next to you, and then charge you an extra fare. In theory, express minibuses only make limited stops at major bus stations en route, although in practice it’s up to the driver and/or conductor as to where they stop and for how long, and how many people they’re willing to cram in.

Fares, timetables and stops

Bus fares, on both private and SLTB services, are extremely low. For journeys on non-express buses, count on around Rs.120–150 per hour’s travel, rising to around Rs.200–250 on express minibuses (more if travelling along an expressway – the Colombo to Galle bus costs around Rs.800). Note that on the latter you may have to pay the full fare for the entire route served by the bus, irrespective of where you get off. If you do want to get off before the end of the journey, let the driver/conductor know when you board.

Exact timings for buses are difficult to pin down. Longer-distance services operate (in theory, at least) according to set timetables; shorter-distance services tend to simply leave when full. Note that on all routes there tend to be considerably more buses early in the day, and that most services tail off over the course of the afternoon. The details given in the Arrival and departure sections in the Guide are an estimate of the total number of buses daily (both private and government). Given journey times represent what you might expect on a good run, without excessive stops to pick up passengers, roadworks or traffic jams en route, although all timings are extremely elastic, and don’t be surprised if some journeys end up taking considerably longer. On longer trips expect the driver to make at least one stop of around twenty minutes at a café en route, especially around lunchtime. Seat reservations are almost unheard of except on Colombo–Jaffna services.

Sri lanka in the fast lane

Sri Lanka’s nineteenth-century highway infrastructure has received a long-overdue upgrade over the past decade, with the opening of the country’s first proper motorways. The most important is the E01 Southern Expressway, from Colombo to Hambantota via Galle and Matara (completed in 2015), which has slashed travel times to the south coast by hours. There’s also the E03 Colombo–Katunayake Expressway, connecting the capital with the international airport, and the E02 Outer Circular Expressway, which serves as a ring-road for Colombo and links the E01 and E03. The E04 Central Expressway from Colombo to Kandy and Dambulla was due to open in 2020, but has been delayed following Covid-19 and the economic crisis. Only the short section between Mirigama and Kurunegala has so far been opened (2022), although once finished, this road should cut current journey times from Colombo to Kandy by around a half – 2024 is the latest estimated completion date, but don’t hold your breath. Tolls are payable on all expressways, which deters local drivers and means that they remain blissfully empty compared to the rest of the island’s congested highways – the Southern Expressway, in particular.

Finding the bus you want can sometimes be tricky. Most buses display their destination in both Sinhala and English, although it’s useful to get an idea of the Sinhala characters you’re looking for. All bus stations have one or more information booths (often unsigned wire-mesh kiosks) where staff can point you in the right direction, as well as providing the latest timetable information. If you arrive at a larger terminal by tuktuk, it’s a good idea to enlist the help of your driver in locating the right bus.

Express services generally only halt at bus terminals or other recognized stops. Other types of services will usually stop wherever there’s a passenger to be picked up – just stand by the roadside and stick an arm out (although you may improve your chances by standing at an official bus stop – look for signs showing a bus icon on a blue square). If you’re flagging down a bus by the roadside, one final hazard is in getting on. Drivers often don’t stop completely, instead slowing down just enough to allow you to jump aboard. Keep your wits about you, especially if you’re weighed down with heavy luggage, and be prepared to move fast when the bus pulls in.

By train

Originally built by the British during the nineteenth century, Sri Lanka’s train network has seen massive changes over the past two decades, transforming from a charmingly antiquated but not particularly useful relic of a bygone era to a comfortable and, on some routes, refreshingly fast way of getting around. The lines to Jaffna and Mannar – closed for decades – were reopened in 2014 and 2015 respectively, while island-wide track improvements and the addition of new rolling stock (including smart a/c carriages on intercity lines) have brought the entire system into the modern era – although many of the old rust-red-coloured colonial carriages remain in use, and trains on the gorgeous hill- country line are as grindingly slow as ever.

quicker by train or bus?

As a rule of thumb, buses are generally faster than trains, especially once you’ve factored in the possibility of trains running behind schedule; hill-country services from Kandy to Badulla, in particular, are grindingly slow (although very scenic). Exceptions to this rule include the journey between Colombo and Kandy, where express trains are notably quicker than buses (although this may change when the new expressway opens), and services to Jaffna, where trains also generally beat the bus. For specific timings, check the train timetables and the Arrival and departure sections for individual destinations in the Guide.

Timings for journeys on some routes vary massively between express services (making only a few stops), standard intercity services, which make more stops, and slow services (such as night mail trains), which halt at practically every station en route. Latest railway timetables can be checked at the erratically functioning government website railway.gov.lk or at the booking sites 12go.asia and visitsrilankatours.co.uk. The excellent seat61.com is a brilliant resource with detailed coverage of all the latest nitty-gritty relating to fares, info and bookings.

The train network

The network comprises three principal lines. The coast line runs along the west coast from Puttalam in the north, heading south via Negombo, Colombo, Kalutara, Bentota, Beruwala, Aluthgama, Ambalangoda, Hikkaduwa and Galle to Weligama and Matara. An extension of the line to Kataragama has been in progress for years, but has been delayed by Covid-19 and the economic crisis, with no confirmed opening date yet available. The hill-country line runs from Colombo to Kandy then on to Hatton (for Adam’s Peak), Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya), Haputale, Bandarawela, Ella and Badulla. The northern line runs from Colombo through Kurunegala to Anuradhapura and Vavuniya before terminating at Jaffna. Three additional branches run off this line: the first to Polonnaruwa and Batticaloa, the second to Trincomalee, and the third to Madhu Road, Mannar and Talaimannar.

Trains comprise three classes, though most services consist exclusively of second- and third-class carriages. There’s not actually a huge amount of difference between the two: second-class seats have a bit more padding and there are fans in the carriages. Both second- and third-class seats can be reserved on some trains – the major benefit of pre-booking a seat is that no standing passengers are allowed in reserved carriages, so they don’t get overcrowded. In unreserved carriages, the main advantage of second-class is that, being slightly more expensive, it tends also to be a bit less packed.

First class covers various different types of seating. These are available only on selected trains and must always be reserved in advance. The most common type of first-class seating is in conventional a/c carriages on intercity trains. On the hill-country and northern lines there are also first-class seats in blue Chinese-built trains with smart modern a/c carriages, although you can’t open the windows and are rather shut off from the outside world. Some people prefer second or third class, which have open windows and are therefore much more atmospheric and breezier, and also better for photography. First class also includes the observation car on hill-country trains; and (rather grotty) sleeping berths on overnight services.

The island’s compact size means that, unlike in neighbouring India, there are relatively few overnight trains. These comprise first-class sleeping berths and second- and third-class sleeperettes (actually just reclining seats), plus ordinary seats, although there’s no possible reason you’d want to go on one, apart from pure curiosity.

Fares and booking

Fares are super cheap. The current cost of a ticket between Colombo and Kandy, for example, is just Rs.500 in second class, or Rs.240 in third.

Many trains now have seats in all three classes which can be booked in advance. Reservations can be made in person at major stations up to thirty days before travel. You can also book by phone if you have a Mobitel/Etisalat account (call 365). Sri Lankan Railways currently don’t offer a web-booking service worth using, but it’s possible to reserve tickets online through a number of agents including 12go.asia and visitsrilankatours.co.uk. Check seat61.com for the latest information on the various booking sites available and how they work.

Observation cars

Some intercity services on the hill-country route from Colombo to Kandy and Badulla carry a special carriage, the so-called observation car, usually at the back of the train and with large panoramic windows offering 360-degree views and seating in rather battered armchair-style seats. All seats are reservable, and get snapped up quickly, especially on the popular Colombo to Kandy run.

The bad news is that on many services, reserved seating (particularly in first class, where available), tends to sell out as soon as it goes on sale (30 days in advance), and even lower classes may be booked solid – meaning that it definitely pays to book more than a month in advance using an online service. The good news (sort of) is that virtually all trains have at least some second- and third-class unreserved carriages. Tickets for these are sold only on the day of travel, sometimes not until an hour before departure, and there’s no limit on the number of tickets sold, meaning you’re guaranteed to get a ticket – if you’re told a train has sold out it just means all the reserved seats have gone. It also, of course, means that carriages can sometimes get packed solid.

By plane

Domestic air services provide a superfast alternative to long journeys by road or rail and are memorable in their own right, with frequently beautiful views of the island from above. The only operator at present is Cinnamon Air ( cinnamonair.com), which has regular scheduled flights out of Katunayake international airport to Koggala, Weerawila (near Tissamaharama), Sigiriya, Batticaloa, Trincomalee and Jaffna (via Sigiriya). There’s are also regular waterplane services from Water’s Edge (on the southern side of Colombo) to Castlereagh (landing on the Castlereagh Reservoir, near Adam’s Peak) and then on to Weerawila. Fares aren’t particularly cheap (a one-way flight from Colombo to Trincomalee, for example, cost around $260 at the time of research), although the flights are wonderfully scenic, particular over the hill country.

A common budget option, the company Helitours is now no longer in business.

By car

As Sri Lankans say, in order to drive around the island you’ll need three things: good horn, good brakes, good luck. Although roads are generally in reasonable condition, the myriad hazards they present – crowds of pedestrians, erratic cyclists, crazed bus drivers and suicidal dogs, to name just a few – plus the very idiosyncratic set of road rules followed by Sri Lankan drivers, makes driving a challenge in many parts of the island.

Reliable car hire companies include Malkey ( malkey.lk) and Casons Rent-A-Car ( casons.lk), both of which have a good range of cars at competitive rates, with or without driver.

Self-driving

If you’re determined to drive yourself in Sri Lanka, you’ll need to get a permit from the Automobile Association of Ceylon (AA; 3rd floor, 40 Sir M.M. Markar Mawatha, Colombo, just a few metres from the Ramada hotel; 011 755 5557; Mon–Fri 8am–3pm). Permits cost Rs.7073 (around $22). Bring your national driving licence and a passport photo. Permits are valid for three months and are issued on the spot. You’ll also need a permit if you’re planning on driving your own tuktuk

In terms of driving rules, you’d do well to remember that, in Sri Lanka, might is right: drivers of larger vehicles (buses especially), will expect you to get out of the way if they’re travelling faster than you. In addition, many drivers overtake freely on blind corners or in other dangerous places. Expect to confront other vehicles driving at speed on the wrong side of the road on a fairly regular basis.

Car and driver

Given the hassle of getting around by public transport, virtually all visitors opt to tour Sri Lanka by hiring a car and driver, which offers unlimited flexibility and can be less expensive than you might expect. Some drivers will get you from A to B but nothing more; others are Sri Lanka Tourist Board-accredited chauffeur-guides, government-trained and holding a tourist board licence, who can double up as guides at all the main tourist sights.

Touring by tuktuk

If you’ve had enough of being touted by tuktuk drivers, how about driving one yourself? A number of places island-wide now offer tuktuks for rent, offering a fun and flexible, if not terribly fast, way of travelling around the island, assuming you’ve got the confidence to deal with Sri Lanka’s eccentric traffic behaviour. Charges are in the region of $15–20/day for longer-term rentals, so it’s extremely affordable as well, but make sure you know exactly what insurance (if any) is provided, who pays for any damage, and what will happen in the event of a breakdown. You’ll also need to get a local driving permit (see Self-driving section), although some operators can arrange this for you.

In Negombo, tuktuks are available from Pick & Go and Alma Tours (Other options include Tuktuk Rental ( tuktukrental.com) and Tuktuk Ceylon Ride ( tuktukceylonride.com), both of whom offer the option to pick up and drop off at different places so you don’t have to travel in a loop.

Cars and drivers can be hired through virtually all the tour companies and travel agents around the island, while many hotels and guesthouses can also fix you up with a vehicle.