Textile Fiestas of Mexico: A Traveler’s Guide to Celebrations, Markets, and Smart Shopping

By Sheri Brautigam

Winner:

2017 IBPA Benjamin Franklin Awards, Silver, Travel

This book, geared to independent-minded travelers, presents the most safe and accessible regional markets and artisan events in Mexico, with an emphasis on finding the finest quality traditional textiles and shopping ethically. Where and when to go, how to get around, what to look for at each location, how to judge quality—it's all here, with abundant photographs and common-sense advice.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Open Road Integrated Media
• Release date: Oct 1, 2016
• ISBN: 9781507302514

Book preview

Textile Passion and Why I Wrote This Guide

The initial spark behind this guide is most likely my childhood delight in historical costumes and fancy dresses, as my family called them, and all things dress-up. While I was growing up in San Francisco, my mother used to take my sister and me to Golden Gate Park frequently and often to the DeYoung Museum as part of the excursion. There was an exhibit of historical clothing, not far from the entrance of the DeYoung, and I would race into the room (often empty) to view the fancy dresses, shimmering, and so very magical to my child’s mind.

My early introduction to Mexico as a 19-year-old college student offered up more experience, especially when I traveled during quarter breaks to explore rural areas. Mexico was an exotic wonderland so I stayed on in Mexico City to receive a B.A in Latin American Studies. Sometimes I would see beautiful, embroidered clothes; my first sighting of a Huichol group that got on my second class bus was a pivotal moment for me. But it wasn’t until I was living in Central Mexico as an English Language Fellow/Teacher Trainer, starting in 2007, that I really began to see the traditional clothing of indigenous Mexico. Traditional textiles were alive and well! How had I missed this as a student in the ‘60s?

Probably the main reason was that in the previous 15-20 years the Mexican road system had vastly improved and where there had been dirt tracks and villages accessible only by burros or en pie (on foot,) there were now paved roads. That meant I could go there either in local transport or in my own car. Not wasting any time, I have gone there over the last ten years, and the rewards of visiting large and small fiestas, ferias, markets, weddings, and regional dance performances, have been delightful and addicting.

For me, there is nothing more exciting than showing up at an event and seeing hundreds of beautifully dressed indigenous people (mostly women) in their finest clothing. There is something about fine clothing that brings out the dignity and pride in people. They’re looking more than good, they’re beautiful!

In indigenous Mexican communities there is a regional form that trajes (traditional costumes) follow: usually, a peasant-style blouse, a wrapped skirt or one with waistband, a belt, or in Southern Mexico, a huipil (tunic blouse), an underskirt, and, of course, the complementary shawl, cape, or sweater. There can also be a variety of traditional symbols which are woven or embroidered into a garment. These come from their culture’s ancient, sacred cosmology. A traditional garment also identifies the wearer as someone from a certain village or region, and of a certain status—unmarried or married, for example.

In the more affluent places, these trajes are often startling in their luxuriousness and individuality. The Purépecha of Michoacán come to mind, especially at the Palm Sunday Artisans Fair in Uruapan, where everyone is finely dressed. Another affluent village is in the highlands of Chiapas, Zinacantán. Here, extravagantly embroidered outfits have colorways that change twice a year for local festivals. These are the indigenous fashionistas of Chiapas in their color and finery. In some affluent places, more embellishment accessories and jewelry are added to an already laboriously embroidered or handwoven garment—the added bling thing. I was even surprised to see glittery, very high-heeled, strappy shoes worn by the younger Purépecha women slowly negotiating the cobblestone streets of Uruapan, Michoacán. In San Cristóbal, Chiapas, women walk nonchalantly down the streets in combinations of complex, stunningly embroidered enredos (wrap skirts) and blouses with Zinacantán capelets of multifloral and metallic designs accented with long, silky tassels in jewel-like colors. Breathtaking.

Where will this textile extravaganza end? My hope is that it doesn’t. And you can come enjoy it, too.

Textile Fiestas of Mexicois for anyone who wants to experience firsthand the magnificent textile traditions of Mexico but needs a little encouragement to discover the best sources. It is my hope that after reading this guide, you will enthusiastically and confidently explore these fascinating, colorful, and lively festivals, fairs, and markets. Using this guidebook, you will discover beautiful traditional textile cultures, meet talented artisans wearing their traditional finery, and be able to purchase textile art that is just waiting to be appreciated.

By attending these fairs and markets and by buying the best textiles you can afford, you’e supporting the artisans and textile culture of Mexico. You’ll be encouraging an artisan to continue spending weeks and months producing her finest works. Where to go and what to buy is a first step.

I have chosen places and events that are foreigner-friendly and relatively easy to tour, with nice hotels and bed and breakfasts available, offering delicious food, and that are safe and secure. These festivals and fairs are well-known throughout Mexico and are very popular, so you will need to plan ahead and make your reservations at least three months in advance, especially for Guelaguetza in Oaxaca.

You don’t necessarily need to speak Spanish to attend, but if you know some basics (numbers, greetings, and gracias) it will be very helpful. What you’ll need is a sense of adventure and willingness to be amazed and delighted as I have been over the years, documenting Textile Fiestas of Mexico.

Viva el mundo textil de Mexico!

—Sheri Brautigam

Guide to Ethical Shopping

I want to offer some suggestions on what I consider ethical textile shopping. I know everyone likes to get a deal, but I feel that this attitude takes advantage of the position of the artisan who made the item; its’ an exploitation model of the past.

For the most part artisans are quite humble when they present their own work, and they possibly have in mind the price they would like to get for their item. Often, almost immediately, they will bring the price down if they see you hesitate more than a few seconds. They want you to buy it. This is because local Mexicans are ruthless when they bargain, and the artisan—if she is really in need of making a sale for her survival—can be reduced to selling the item for barely the cost of materials. I’ve stood next to buyers when they were trying to do this. It seems disrespectful of the artisan’s hard work and the textile itself, but it’s a reality of Mexican market culture economics.

But textile aficionados and collectors are different, aren’t we? We are appreciative and have a pretty good idea how many hours go into weaving a huipil or a shawl. Just ask the artisan if you are in doubt; they’ll tell you. Consider three weeks of work on a fine Amuzgo shawl woven on a backstrap loom. If the asking price is 1000 pesos, or US$70, that seems to be a very inexpensive price for her materials and her two months of labor, not to mention the years it’s taken her to learn her craft. Pay it! Don’t ask her to come down 50 or 100 pesos just because you feel like it. Why? Because 50 pesos, about US$3, is more valuable to her than it is to you. It could easily be 3-4 days’ worth of food for her family.

This challenges the assumption that you have to bargain when you buy something in Mexico. I’m directing this information particularly to buying directly from the artisan at markets or fairs or at their co-op or in their home, which is a different situation than buying from a middleman in the market. The middleman has already beaten down the rural artisan for a low price so that he can profit. They aren’t easily intimidated as they know how much they paid for it and how much they need to charge to profit.