#365 Boards

Surfing Life

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Surfing Life4 min read
Boards
What came first, Chicken Joe or the egghead? You know what I mean: board or rider, shaped or shaper? Since surfing’s beginning, have we been stuck in a time loop? Boards. We shape them. They shape us. We shape them. They shape us. We shape them—this
Surfing Life5 min read
With Keith Grisman
What is the future for board collectors? When most people think “board collections”, they tend to go straight to thoughts about vintage, which by definition doesn’t have a specific period—20 years is generally the accepted minimum. Forty years is co
Surfing Life2 min read
The Lineup
If I were to own any prized collector’s board, it would have to be an early ’70s Gerry Lopez single fin. These boards represent boundaries being pushed at Pipeline and Lopez’s ability to surf waves of consequence with elegance. The lightning bolt boa
Surfing Life1 min read
Contributors
Josh AllenKate AllmanJohn AndrewsMat BellWill BendixTessa BerkeleyRussell BierkeChris BinnsDaniel BrennanBrad BricknellMichael CiaramellaLiz ClarkNoah CohanHayden CoxRicky DannAndy DavisKeiran DeckRambo EstradaJaymie FaberSosefina FuamoliLachlan Garu
Surfing Life3 min read
The Sport Of Queens
Commentators, pundits, announcers, and surf fans, in general, love to throw the word “legend” around. “GOAT” seems to be another descriptor many of us in the surf world use, especially regarding Kelly Slater. Who we choose to root for is subjective,
Surfing Life1 min read
Surfing Life
EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Lystra Rose EDITOR-AT-LARGE: Chris Coté CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Tim Baker CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Kate McMahon SENIOR STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER: Andrew Shield STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER/WRITER: Travis Johnson OPERATIONS PUBLISHER: Ray Bisschop
Surfing Life1 min readMusic
Framed
Alister Reginato is surfing's Bob Dylan. He's lyrically abstract, introspective, and tangled up in blue. ■
Surfing Life8 min read
New Dogs, Old Tricks
“Each generation imagines itself more intelligent than the one that came before it, and wiser than the one that comes after it.” 1 Though George Orwell’s statement is true, does this mainstream notion trickle into surf mentality? Groms are renowned
Surfing Life10 min read
Oh, The Places You’ll Go
Congratulations This is your wave You launch over the ledge And you’re up and away You have wax on the deck And fins down below You can steer yourself Wherever you want to go Turn your surfboard over. Oh, it was already fins-up? Then turn it over
Surfing Life15 min read
Travel Sled Review
PHOTOS BY TRAVIS JOHNSON Bali is the island of the gods. Blessings poured into the temple of the open sky with a bountiful supply of perfect left and right setups. This unique segment of the Indonesian archipelago was ideal for the 2022 Surfing Life
Surfing Life7 min read
Anatomy Of A Modern Surfboard
Ask a non-surfer, what are the parts that make up a surfboard? and you’re likely to get a similar answer from most subjects. “Nose, tail, fins, top, bottom.” Some subjects mention “rails”, and when asking someone with a bit more knowledge on the top
Surfing Life7 min read
The Future Is Here
It is 2022, seven years past the date Marty McFly and Doc time-travelled to in Back to the Future II. Although flying cars and hoverboards today are not at the stage the film dreamed they’d be, other technology far surpassed anything imaginable back

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